(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!

By Matt_Rasmussen

6 years ago

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  • 253 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by atrainn
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#1292 1 year ago

After 5 years of this game being folded up, I had a nice ending to a day of repairing a MPU and power supply for Big Head. Game boots now and goes into attract mode. Tomorrow, need to test all the lamps, flashers, switches, coils, and motor. I already know of 2 switches needing to be replaced in scoop and the VUK for the crane in the back. Of course, added NVRAM and since it was missing a DMD, I added a Sigma LED ColorDMD. Now I'm ready for some action!! After I got the MPU and power supply repaired for this game today, Arnold sent a very important message via the DMD. haha 20180623_004025 (resized).jpg

#1294 1 year ago

It is mine and I had it that long folded up. MPU had a boot up issue that I just finally got around repairing for it. With 16 projects in the garage it was just finally time to get started on a game for myself. Been busy repairing many boards and machines for other people past 5 years.

#1310 1 year ago
Quoted from goodtimes:

anybody have ball launch issues with there l a h ?

More specifically? Game code revision? I have v1.12 and have no issues

1 week later
#1339 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

I just pick up up a LAH that was non working. I stripped the playfield down and cleaned it. replaced all fuse clips. New Bridge rectifiers (all). Checked all fuses. Reflowed solder.
Game boots fine and All looks well but still having a few issues.
-will not eject a ball
-when I push flippers the ball launch and the ripper solenoids fire (but activate very weakly) { <---This is the weirdest one for me }
- the ripper does not fire during the "ripper" test
- Also of note during diagnosis test:
-coil fire tests no coils fire until what seems to be one cycle has run... then the backbox lights flash once then the coil test begins again... and then only some coils fire (pop bumpers, kickers near flippers, few others).
-during lamps test. All lights display and flash during that test but the lamp "row" and "column" test... nothing happens.
So maybe a few issues going on at the same time.

Definitely time for a cap kit if you have an OEM DE board installed and check for broken solder joints on the connectors of this board.

#1343 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

There are only like 4 caps on the CPU (MPU) board. I could change them out in about 5 minutes. Hard to imagine that is my problem thought.

Sorry, I meant on the power supply.

#1344 1 year ago
Quoted from Frax:

lol good luck is all I can say. I have a similar issue where my autoplunger will fire with the flipper button but ONLY when the crane is on the right limit switch. I haven't been able to fix it. I'm going to change my PIA and some of the other ICs and socket them at the same time. I'm out of ideas and the game needs to go. (So anyone looking for an otherwise beautiful LAH without mods or LEDs....hit me up if you're going to be coming through Dallas and want one lol)

Remove the 6 balls out of the trough, make sure the 5 bank drop targets are in the up position, and then go to the active switch test and see which one(s) are still registering. You may have 2 closed switches needing adjusting.

#1347 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

Is it just the one marked with the white label marked WWF?

Yes, just that one only to be changed to the LAH ROM. I also suggest 6264 NVRAM to eliminate batteries as it is plug and play on this machine. Just remove the old RAM (just below the game ROM with the label) and pop in the other into the socket. http://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

#1349 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

Good News / Bad News. I have eliminated the MPU as the problem. I swapped my LAH chip on an old WWF MPU board and the identical problems persists. So what is next?

As I mentioned above, I believe you need to change the capacitors on the power supply and check for broken solder joints on all the male header connectors. But for fun, if you have a power supply from the WWF, try that board first.

#1354 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

Hold the phone... I replaced my PPB (playfield power board)with the only WWF one and half my issues corrected themselves. But I am getting no flashers on the flasher test (none!) and on manual coil test (which also activates flashers ) the coil are firing okay enough during test (not all but most) but then when a flasher test occurs a coil fires instead of any flasher. So the coils are firing twice in some cases, once on their correct coil test.. and then again on the following flasher test.

You may have some broken solder joints on the original PPB on the male connector pins. This was going to be my next suggestion.

#1376 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Anyone else using these in their game? The one I have is from MAD Amusements that I got years ago and its been losing transistors over the years to where I'm down to one magnet working. I'm leaning towards the PBL one due to how "beefy" it looks. I'm done repairing the current board. The current looks identical to the marco one only mine has the LEDs on board to show which transistors are working. So, looking for feedback on which I should get if you have experienced either...

Are you running the latest v1.12 game ROM?
Have you tried adding a heat sink to each on transistor on the Mad Amusement board? I have an original magnet board that has the heatsinks on each of them. I just got my game working 2 weeks ago so time will tell how long they hold up. I had also changed to the replacement IRL540 transistors instead of the original transistor.

#1410 1 year ago

Here are some screen shots from my beta testing.2018-07-13 15_59_37-Windows Media Player (resized).png2018-07-13 16_00_12-Windows Media Player (resized).png2018-07-13 16_01_55-Windows Media Player (resized).png2018-07-13 16_02_21-Windows Media Player (resized).png

#1413 1 year ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Awesome !!!! The last 2 releases are my only dmd games.

Looking at your collection list, you have a Sharkey's Shootout, which is a DMD game.

#1414 1 year ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

But I haven't seen a led Version in person. So I am a little hesitant.

The screenshots I took above are of the LED display. It really does look good in this machine. I do prefer a LCD, but for this speaker panel configuration, I decided to stick with the LED display especially after testing it.

#1415 1 year ago

A few more from the beta testing. 2018-07-13 23_20_50-Windows Media Player (resized).png2018-07-13 23_19_44-Windows Media Player (resized).png2018-07-13 23_19_22-Windows Media Player (resized).png2018-07-13 23_24_58-Windows Media Player (resized).png

#1428 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

But there isn't a USB port on the board.

Yes, USB ports shown circled in yellow. This is as it is how you have to update to the color ROM for any game.LED5 (resized).png

Quoted from bicyclenut:

I do have the current 1.12v rom chip.

Good. Nothing else to worry about on that. The LAH color ROM will also support the unofficial v1.13 DE game code, if you choose to upgrade.

#1430 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Oh gotcha! It comes on the new DMD. Easy enough. Thanks for the info.

The board to the left is the DMD controller board in LAH that needs to be moved over and attached with the standoffs supplied with the LED ColorDMD. Also with the kit will be a power tap and wiring that will supply the needed voltage to the ColorDMD board.

#1433 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I just ordered the colorDMD last night for mine. Looks like it will be a huge improvement over stock.

It sure is a huge improvement, especially the animations that I got the screenshots from several posts above from my beta testing.

#1435 1 year ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

This is my install / USB code update on JP....same boards and cabinet. It's pretty simple and quick.

Nice. You show to have your DMD saver board connected to the ColorDMD board at 6:05?

#1445 1 year ago

You can install the LCD in LAH if you want to do a permanent mod to the speaker panel and then you have to email ColorDMD for the color ROM for the LCD, as it will not be on the website. LED is the official supported display for LAH and other games (Tommy, TFTC, R&B, LW3) with the same speaker panel.

#1447 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

So my understanding is, I can get the color DMD for LAH, install it, but I cant get full color display because the website doesnt have the updated firmware for it posted yet. Am I correct in this?

As per the announcement, the LED color ROM should be available on the 20th. If you want the LCD color ROM, you will have to email ColorDMD a request.

#1450 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Does anyone know what should be "bulletproofed" on the boards for LAH? I'm not having any issues with mine, but I like to be proactive. I searched Great Plains Electronics for any "kits" but I only find some Stern sound "kits". On different boards, which specific caps, etc.? I haven't searched PinWiki yet. My ColorDMD came in today for mine. I ordered the LED version. I will get the firmware when released. Looking forward to it. Just installed a ColorDMD on my friends Ripley's last night. Wow! What a difference.

What I do on games I repair is replace most of the capacitors on the power supply as they do have a life expectancy and 6264 NVRAM for the MPU, which is such an easy 30 second upgrade to get rid of batteries forever since the old Ram is already in a socket. https://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

Also need to check for any burnt connectors especially cn1, cn2, and cn6 on the power supply as well as for any burnt connectors on the PPB board.

#1458 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Any chance you can elaborate what mods are needed for the LCD version?

Definitely, you will have to cut/remove the plastic mounting standoff that is holds the original plasma DMD in the bottom center of the board. You may have to remove some bulbs out of the backbox so the LCD can sit in front of the white back board due to the height of the screen. I would think you would want to put something between the LCD screen and the speaker panel so it does not rest right up on the screen since the edges of the plastic speaker panel may scratch up the LCD screen. I am not sure beyond that, other than what I had read, as I only have LED displays in this speaker panel type.

#1466 1 year ago

Friday has only gotten started. It is 10am here.

#1468 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Just joking around. Im excited to install my new DMD.

Oh I know. Just it will be a long day waiting on the release.

#1470 1 year ago

LAH color ROM for the ColorDMD has been posted!!!
2018-07-20 12_29_01-Facebook - Internet Explorer (resized).png

1 week later
#1521 1 year ago
Quoted from resipsa:

Does anyone run into a problem where the flippers seem to be under powered during multiball (i.e., when the magnet is running)? Any thoughts on how to try to address this?

Did you install new EOS switches?

#1523 1 year ago

I believe the coils are getting hot about that time as you have more flipper action during multiball. The EOS is supposed to tell it to switch to low power, but if it is never turning off, coils hot=weak flippers. So next time it happens see if the coils are hot.

1 month later
#1545 1 year ago
Quoted from JSBebop2071:

Picked up last weekend. Was acting a little wonky, suspect loose fuse holder, fixed. Currently has display 1.04 and cpu 1.05. After playing a bit decided will add left outlane post. Very happy with the play so far.
[quoted image]

Congrats. It is a fun game.

2 weeks later
#1587 1 year ago

Do not twist the crane by hand at all as this can damage the crane motor. Always use the test to move the crane.

I had to bend the metal part at the wireform that holds the switch toward the crane to get mine adjusted. You may want to try and loosen the 2 wireform screws (that hold it to the playfield) to see if you can twist the whole wireform to the right a bit so the switch is closer to the crane when it comes over, instead of bending what I did.

2018-09-18 10_08_25-Internet Pinball Machine Database_ Data East 'Last Action Hero' Images - Interne (resized).png

#1593 1 year ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

Problem when I bend the switch forward is the ball does not land in the crane. I will check the test mode and see if I can adjust it that way.

I was stating that I bent the yellow metal piece near the wireform. So the switch moves with the whole thing it is mounted on.

#1595 1 year ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

Yes I bent the whole yellow piece like you did and when the crane gets there and triggers the switch the ball doesn't land on the crane.

Now it sounds like you need to tweak your wireform. Can you post a picture of it please? Can you show in the picture where the ball lands/hits?

#1602 1 year ago
Quoted from bounoun:

What kind of screw do yo guys have to adjust the crane ? I have a feeling the screw in my crane was replaced.

What issue are you having?

#1604 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Everytime I turn my game on lately it comes on but it doesnt go to the CPU version and just the lights are on if I turn it off and right back on then it loads it everytime

It is not booting up. Can you test the 12v, -12v and 5v at the top right on the power supply?

#1608 1 year ago

Can you post a picture of the MPU?

#1617 1 year ago

scott8806 I agree with TheCapn that there is some battery corrosion, on the 40 pin part below the battery holder. It is a 6802 CPU chip, not a PIA (6821). Likely its socket is also damaged and no telling what else since the pictures are not too clear and cannot get close up to look at in more detail.

Thing about the 6802 CPU chip is that there are sooooo many counterfeit parts out there, and yes, I got a hold of many of them, it is hard to find. Sending the board out I think would be best to get it taken care of.

chrishibler would be happy to give you an estimate and would even install NVRAM as it would get rid of batteries forever.

#1620 1 year ago

If you remove the 6802 CPU chip, you are very likely to see battery corrosion in the 40 pin IC socket. Problem is you may also have some under the battery holder, especially if it is on the solder joints of where the + and - of the holder are soldered to the board. Only way to see that well would be to remove the battery holder. The battery corrosion spreads like cancer once it gets on traces of the board and the fumes can carry over and skip parts while damaging other parts.

#1623 1 year ago

The battery holder is soldered in 2 places on the right side and has an adhesive that holds the holder to the board. If NVRAM is installed, I would definitely remove the holder to be sure no batteries ever get inside the machine again.

Might as well remove batteries out of the Sopranos too. This is only one place that sells NVRAM, which is where I buy 20 or 30 at a time. https://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

The 6802 may not be the only place that is damaged. Even the best picture, can still hide damage under parts. The board needs to be inspected a lot deeper with the board out of the game.

#1625 1 year ago

It is not too difficult other than the 2 solder joints to the battery connections.

#1627 1 year ago

One for Sopranos will the attached the same way. Take note that the top of the NVRAM will be pointing down in Sopranos and the top of the NVRAM in LAH will be pointing to the right.

#1630 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

I dont have the Sopranos anymore I have elvira cyclone batman forever black rose

Ok. The Batman Forever will be plug and play, but the others will not be unless someone happened to have changed the RAM and installed an IC socket.

There is a good chance that the Elvira and Cyclone have a 6116 RAM installed, 24 pin vs. 28 pin, so if you go to 6264, then a jumper needs to be changed. 6116 NVRAM is available as well. Cyclone may only use the 6116.

Do you need help installing NVRAM on the 4 boards?

#1634 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

My shaker motor is weak in coil test mode but it seems fine when playing a game. For example, when a pop bumper activates, the shaker responds immediately. What problem could this be?

It is normal as it is only a short test within the coil test.

#1636 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

Why do you say it is a short test? I can keep my hand on the start button and make the test last as long as I want.
Can other pinsiders confirm the same thing happens on their machine?

I'll rephrase and say it is only a short burst during the shaker motor test. I just tested it to confirm it. DE designed it that way so you don't burnt it up. Software controls when and how long it shakes during game play, but only allow the short burst to keep people from holding down the start button to keep it continuously running and possibly burning up something since they cannot control how long someone wants to test it.

1 week later
#1660 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

So I pulled both the CN5 and CN6 from the Power board and F1 still blew.
So it's the power board. I'll have to take it out and see if I did anything wrong.
I'm about ( ) close to saying Fu@$ It and buying a new power board!!!
(which I've should have done months ago.)
I will report back in a day or two.
Thank you both : Inknochnito and The Capn

Typical reason for F1 blowing out is because of a shorted bridge rectifier on the power supply. Usually the short is from an AC ~ input to either output + or -

#1664 1 year ago

With the wide blade pins on the original style bridge rectifier, it should be impossible to install wrong. Did you use the one with round leads?

#1668 1 year ago

Yes, the picture helped. You installed the original flat blade type and is installed correctly. Could you snap one picture of the back of the board?

What was the original problem?

#1698 1 year ago

I am in desperate search of p/n 515-5850-00 or the whole assembly so I can finish up my LAH for the local pinball show on the 19th. Anyone have one to sell? 2018-10-07 09_55_14-Marco Specialties Pinball Parts - Internet Explorer (resized).png

#1728 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

So......... CRAP!!!
Bought a new power supply from Rottendog and STILL NO LIGHTS!!!!!!
Not too happy. So does what mean there is something wrong with the PPB?????
mbwalker--- Do you still need me to try the above step? (Im guessing, no.)
More help please......

Please post a picture of the boards with everything plugged in. Kinda hoping something is not plugged in. Did the GI ever work since you owned the game?

#1730 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I am in desperate search of p/n 515-5850-00 or the whole assembly so I can finish up my LAH for the local pinball show on the 19th. Anyone have one to sell? [quoted image]

I am still searching.2018-10-07 09_55_14-Marco Specialties Pinball Parts - Internet Explorer (resized).png

#1739 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

So, here are 2 pictures.. one of the Power board and one of the main board.

And need one of the PPB (lower left board)

1 month later
#1773 11 months ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

I thought I read this in the thread here somewhere, but I cannot find it anymore. So apologies for the repeat question.
My LAH sound is not as voluminous anymore as it used to be, there is zero low or base, but it is not that the sub is not working anymore. Simply all the lows are cut. Any idea?

With power off, turn your volume control back and forth a few times to try and clean the contacts. Then try again

#1780 11 months ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Wow, so far so good. It did seem to do the trick, just turning the volume control....weird. Especially since it only had cut out certain frequencies.
Anyhow...Thank You. Cheapest fix ever on this machine.

Basically, I think it is cutting out your cabinet speaker. Try getting some contact cleaner and spray off into the volume control. Usually, you can buy a small spray bottle.

#1782 11 months ago

I had plenty of success cleaning a volume control spraying it without taking it out of that box, just spraying it from the top side.

1 week later
#1787 11 months ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Does the topper do anything? It's police lights, correct? Is it tied to the flashers?

Yes it is the police lights and has flasher in it.

#1789 11 months ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Thanks. But when does it turn on and flash?
I don't have the topper, and wondering if there is a dedicated wire for it that I could re-use. Thanks.

I know it flashes during multiball. I forget the other times. Should be lots of youtube videos to watch.

4 months later
#2058 6 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

Hello Everyone
Quick question hope someone can answer.
My uncles Last Action Hero has been having some problems.
Currently when you turn it on the DMD promps you to "open door" when the door is closed or open.
And it does not play.
Any idea what that could mean?

Just go with the NVRAM since it is plug and play for DE games.

1 week later
#2070 6 months ago
Quoted from TommyNYC:

I put the NVRAM in and it still says "open the door" flashing when you turn it on. Any other ideas ?

Yes. You have to go all the way thru the adjustment menu until the game resets in order for it to save any settings and to clear that message.

1 month later
#2115 5 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I did something stupid and before I start troubleshooting I am hoping there is an easy answer. In the quest to fix the rear 1/3 lighting on my LAH, I unplugged the connector circled in red to reseat it and check for improvements. Unplugging this connector caused the lights under the playfield to go out. I plugged the connector back in while the machine was on, saw a spark, and the lights under the playfield no longer work. Does anyone know the most likely cause and solution? Troubleshooting tips? I'll take another look tonight after work and all advice is appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

This is a reason why you should not reseat connectors with power on. Hopefully you just blew a fuse. Test all the fuses with a meter.

#2116 5 months ago

Let us know if the fuses all test good.

1 week later
#2122 4 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Okay... how do i get the diverter out? Doing a top side teardown.[quoted image]

There is a set screw on the side of that diverter you need to loosen.

#2123 4 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Hey guys, I need a bit of help please. I was stupid enough to try and adjust my bumper switches while the power was on and shortened the power of the bumper coil to the switch of the button bumper. Now whenever a bumper switch is triggered, it activates all switches in the same row, e.g. left turbo (#33) also activates switches #17, #25, #41 and #57.
From what I've read I might have fried some transistors and/or ICs on the mainboard - can you from the behaviour tell which one it might be? I do have another board (from a SWDE) for testing.

Well, according to the switch matrix, you have row 1 shorted. With power OFF on the game, the easiest thing to do is unplug CN10 and the do a diode test or ohm test with a multimeter on D26 (row 1 = pin 9) to see if it is shorted. You can compare it to others (D27 to D33) in the other rows to see if it measures differently, as I hope it will.

LAH switch matrix row 1 failure (resized).png

LAH switch matrix section on CPU (resized).png

#2125 4 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Actually, EVERY Switch in Column 5 activates every other switch in its row. So I'm suspecting transistor Q51 or the IC behind it.

Then test out Q51 to see if it is shorted. You can compare to the other transistors in the other columns shown at the top row of the switch matrix chart.

#2127 4 months ago

You can measure from ground to the IC at location 5J (part #4011) pins 4, 5 and 6. If any pins shorted to ground, then the IC is bad. You can compare to pins 8, 9 and 10 on the same 5J IC.

#2128 4 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Yup, Q51 is short. Hope the IC's intact though.

Q51 = 2N3904

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