(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!

By Matt_Rasmussen

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,518 posts
  • 349 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by BubbaPin
  • Topic is favorited by 127 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_4469 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7214 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7215 (resized).jpeg
JP DMD Glare (resized).JPG
IMG_4183 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4176 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4184 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4189 (resized).jpeg
20240317_164915 (resized).jpg
IMG20231222163745 (resized).jpg
20231217_164559 (resized).jpg
20231217_163932 (resized).jpg
20231119_150215 (resized).jpg
20231119_195951 (resized).jpg
bad_matrix (resized).jpg
20231022_194847 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider osudrummer.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#191 9 years ago

Hello Everyone,

Finally got LAH a month ago, it's my first pin and I love it!
Question, in Diagnostics the playfield status shows (besides the obvious Crane Left Limit) Left Ramp and Left Captive Ball Switches as active. Would that typically be solved by just replacing those switches? I pulled the switch off the ramp and when i press it I hear a click but the status doesn't change. I'm a noob so go easy on me!

Thanks.

#194 9 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

May be simple. Take a few good pictures of the switches. I'm wondering if the wires on the ramp switch is touching something they shouldn't. Sometimes the screws that hold switches to brackets are too tight too and cause switches to not function essentially locking up the mechanical plastic in the switch.
Also you can adjust the captive ball switch. I'm guessing the switch may be touching all the time making the closure and needs opened a bit. They make a tool to adjust easier but a small pair of needle nose pliers will work. The target switches are pretty basic. It will take some gentle tweaking to get the gap right. Turn off the game and remove the two screws holding that left captive ball switch in. See if there's any touching. You want the contacts close with what I use is 3-5 business cards thick (have tons from my work and never hand mine out!) for the gap. If you can keep the switch from touching anything you can turn on game and test. It's a bit of trial and error but is good first things to learn and get your game playing nicely. You want the gap open enough to not be closed but close enough that a light hit of the ball will register a hit.
Pics would help people possibly see some issues. Since you're new it may help to look at the easy things first like the diodes on the switches touching something they shouldn't, etc.
Of course both switches could be bad too but mostly I've found that adjustments are needed.

Thanks! Here are a few pics. For the captive ball not sure what i need to look at, under the playfield? My wife said "Quit tinkering and just play it!" LOL. Also was wondering if anyone knows how I could obtain a sticker to replace the lettering that has rubbed in front of the scoop here. I have read about people scanning and then printing them. My ticket is great but this area not so much.image-306.jpgimage-306.jpgimage-357.jpgimage-357.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

#195 9 years ago

image-339.jpgimage-339.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgCouple other things, found this spot on my playfield and was just going to put a mylar dot on it. Is that a good idea? Looks like something might have fallen on it in the past and I noticed it when the ball would slightly change direction. Lastly with the sound i always have a loud humming coming out of my speakers and was wondering what i should check for that. About half the time I turn it on Arnold stutters with his "I'll be back" or the sound doesn't work at all unless I restart.
Thanks.

#204 9 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

The captive ball hits a target. With the game off, it's easier to unscrew it from the bottom removing the two screws and then inspecting the wiring (Making sure nothing is touching where it shouldn't or wire or diode not broken off) and then check gap. Likely a wire is touching for that or the target need adjusting so it has a spacing so its not showing closed all the time.
As for the ramp switch, as far as I can tell it's ok. You can try using a small screwdriver and loosening the screws to the mount and also try the switch then. See if its sticking. Otherwise, a new switch will likely be needed if you can't follow the wiring below and make sure they're not loose or broken somewhere. There's a bunch of connectors below and there may be a loose or bad connector.
I'm not any help of a label to fix the Multiball.
LOL at your wife. "Tinkering" as she calls it is how you get your game working and 100%. It's part of pinball ownership.

Good deal, thanks again.

7 months later
#466 9 years ago

Hi all, I've had mine for about 9 months and have a big problem I need help with. Some background, for the last few months the sound wouldn't start until Arnold had stuttered for quite awhile, on top of that the last month I would flip the switch and some lights would come on but it would take several minutes for the DMD and lights to come on and start attract mode. The other day I decide the try and reseat the connectors. I go through that and then when I started a game it would show 00 score and wouldn't kick the ball out to start, it also didn't show the normal animation it was stuck showing 00. Well just now I turn it on and no lights come on, only response is from the crane which moves to one side and then I smell something burning so I turned off and unplugged. My skill set includes soldering and that's about it. Just called my local pinball repair guy and the open-ended pricing is worse than feared. Any ideas or suggestions? I have been looking at getting another pin but my wife is looking at this one going "I told you so"

#469 9 years ago

Thanks, should I buy a meter and test certain areas or just take it in the shorts and hire someone?

#471 9 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Every pinball owner should have a meter, and you don't necessarily need to buy an expensive fluke. You can buy a pretty nice meter for almost nothing. This is the one I have:
amazon.com link »
Ronnie is telling you to buy a meter because usually when things start failing like you describe, the voltage is dropping (so you get a weird sometimes works, but not completely), then finally fails. There are voltage regulators in every pinball, and it's basically testing of those components to find out what failed (quite often it's the 5v line going to logic). If you aren't already, I would subscribe to pinball ninja's website ($20 donation, google it). Clay harell has hundreds of videos, everything from mechanical to electrical issues. Even if it's not LAH, the same problem occurs on many other titles, and you're likely to see similar issues to what you see on yours.
I'm all about supporting pinball techs, but it can get REALLY costly and I only use them if I'm absolutely stuck, and I usually wait until a couple of my pins have issues to make it worth it. Truth be told, by the time you pay the $80+ travel fee, and an hour of labor, you can usually just buy a new board and sell the old one off to let someone else fix it for the same price. The other option is to go to a pinball show and bring your board (s) in and let them put it in a test fixture to find issues, at least then you save the travel fee and they'll do a much more thorough job.

Thanks a lot for the advice. I was ready to call the tech but will buy a meter and see if I can dig my way out!

#474 9 years ago

So I have a capacitor that appears to be leaking on the power board, any advice on removing it and adding a new one? Where do I put the leads to check the power to confirm +5v? I subscribed to the ninja forum but nothing there I've found with this very basic beginner info. Anything else I should test before powering on?

Thanks,

1 year later
#624 8 years ago

I could see upgrading the speakers if I got the Pinsound board but mine is plenty loud for now. Yellow Pyle's look great!

I must say the LED OCD, EnerGI Maestro and Caker's ROM are the first upgrades anyone should make to this game. Love it!

1 week later
#628 8 years ago

I have a question for you fellow LAH owners. Occasionally if the ball makes it up the ramp without a lot of speed it will get stuck in the area just before the right wireform. I have waxed the ramp but do not see how else i could adjust the ramp to prevent this. I have the game set steep with back levelers all the way up and the front down. Anyone else have this issue or ideas on how to fix?
Thanks

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

#630 8 years ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

That is odd. That has not happened to me.. yet.
Are you sure the ramp is installed correctly? The 2 screws on the back-side of the ramp, are they holding?
Maybe the rivets are too high? Or the wire-frame is bent up?
Well good luck.
MM
OUT

Yes everything installed correctly, all screws holding. Will look at the wireframe but since it is attached to the ramp dont want to bend too much amd break the ramp.

Anyone else???

#632 8 years ago
Quoted from caker137:

Mine had this exact issue too. I ended up taking the wire form loose and tweaking the metal a little bit to force the plastic part of the ramp down slightly at the junction. Problem solved. I don't remenber 100% but I think I bent the support that attaches by the eyeball targets to put a counter-clockwise twist into the wireform as it passes over the chicken scoop.

Okay thanks! I'll give that a go!

#634 8 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

The lane changer is too high. Lower it to where it would touch the outer most equator or lower portion of the ball. The lane changer being too high can slow the ball and even bring it to a halt.

Thanks I will try that also.

Caker, I took a look and am not sure I understand what you mean.

#636 8 years ago
Quoted from caker137:

Yeah, its kinda hard to describe. The wireform (that rests into that plastic ramp) bolts to the playfield in two places: near the right inlane, and near the eyeball targets. If you bend the wire that attaches near the eyeballs so that from the front of the game it bends slightly to the left, this will cause the wireform to press down on the plastic ramp up at the far end of the wireform, which lowers it slightly to increase the slope in the plastic ramp exit. Another way to describe it is that the wireform metal wire that bolts on top of the eyeball plastics starts as a vertical line |, but you bend it to resemble a slight angle \
Do the bending with the wireform off the machine, and only bend slightly.

Okay that makes sense, thanks!

1 week later
#637 8 years ago

Wondering if anyone has the ability to print me a few waterslide decals. I need a couple each of the M-BALL and CHICKEN letters in front of the scoops. I plan on applying and covering with mylar. Does anyone do this?

Thanks

2 months later
#655 7 years ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Question on LAH. Mine had the post holding the plastic down near the diverter on the ramp loose for a long time, causing the diverter not to fire properly.
Fixed that and tightened the post down, now ball hangs when going down the right path. Where the plastic ramp meets the metal flap before going down the right ramp.
Anyone have this issue before? I think my game needs new legs and I know it needs a flipper rebuild and hope that will alleviate the situation but was curious if anyone ran into this issue and had any advice.
Also temp storing my games at a friend's house due to a move/have yet to build a game room. Hadn't played LAH in months. I miss it, without any sarcasm I truly think it is one of the best games from the 1990s, regardless of manufactorer. Awesome modes and cheesy music/callouts. Most undervalued game today imo.

Go back one page I had the same issue and got great advice. Haven't had it get stuck since.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
From: $ 1.00
Boards
Slap Save Creations
 
$ 32.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
3,500
Machine - For Sale
York, SC
5,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Lake Charles, LA
From: $ 9.99
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 209.00
$ 1.29
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 18.95
$ 18.95
$ 39.99
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider osudrummer.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in?tu=osudrummer and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.