Last Action Hero
Data East, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mustangpaul.
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Got mine about a month ago but haven't played it much cuz it's in the garage with other games while I finish by basement arcade. Got the alt translight which look MUCH better then the original. Got 5 other guys to help me move them down this coming Sat. and have a slide set-up on the steps which will make it a breeze to "slide-um" down on their belly. 
I like it because you see all of Arnold in "Action" not just his big head. But I do wish the girl with the gun was bigger, like the original. 
Quoted from Dbaum88:It's Arnold's big foot vs. Arnold's big face!
I like the foot better too.
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:My ripper is lightening fast when I hit it, I can't even see it come back, way faster than JP was. I'm really digging the game, ordered the alt translite too, cliffys, new balls. Gonna tear it down and do the Treasure Cove thing (it already looks very nice, but can only get better). Also asked some advice from the Pinballbulbs.com guys and ordered a double spotlight with purple frosted to put on the lower left sling and see if that helps brighten up the playfield a bit, it's super dark there when you play in a dark room, which I prefer to do.
Super Crane is a fun mode for sure EchoVictor, I like Go to the Movies too, with the add-a-ball. Although, the captured balls are not a simple task to hit.
I read somewhere that a pink bulb lights almost as good as a white but makes the colors on the pf pop more. Did I get it wrong?
Quoted from mab487:I am doing the same thing. Please tell me I don't have to remove the ramp and the crane to put in the other two blue LED's on the left..? I've tried to figure it out without removing it, but looks like it is necessary.
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I don't have my game handy but can't you take the wood screw out from under the pf so the socket comes out and change the bulb that way.
Quoted from Chrisg:Here's my LAH that I rebuilt over the past 2 months. Plenty of powder coating, LEDs, painted inside cabinet/backbox and a new translight!
Only one flipper issue and a bit of ticket wear to touch up and it will be perfect!
This is a really fun game with plenty of features.image-527.jpg 2 MB
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Looks great, I have the alt TL also, so much better then the original.
On the blue plastic that says Lock 1, Lock 2 right there that has 2 lights that stick up but that's 4 wires total. I don't have my game apart so I don't know what's under that plastic.
Quoted from Chrisg:They go the lamp on the top of the dynamite plastic.
Here is a pic from when I stripped mine. You can see where it comes out from under the blue plastic.image-559.jpg 742 KB
I don't know how he could have missed that, the yellow lamp is in his picture. 
There are 2 lights on the blue plastic rite by that picture but they need 4 wires, the same color wires as those 2. 
Quoted from jkroeck25:The Flyers game just ended, going to grab a beer and play my LAH. I need the plastic that covers the scoops and spinner if anyone can help me out.
No help here. Sorry.
Quoted from Butch2099:Finished shopping my Last Action Hero tonight! Got all of the LED's in I was even able to play a couple of games. I'm looking forward to having this pin for a long time!
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Lookin Gooood!
Quoted from EchoVictor:I know someone. Go to your bathroom, and look in the mirror......it's you!
Flame polishing isn't really that hard. All you need is a small butane torch kit (from Lowe's, HD, wherever), a steady hand, and some patience.
Before you start, cleaning with Novus 2 and then sending it through the dishwasher ala btw75's trick isn't a bad idea. I'd also try experimenting on a spare old cracked throwaway piece if you have one. Be sure to only do the side opposite of any decals, and be extra-cautious around any switches or wires mounted to the ramp.
Once you have your ramp removed and your torch going, just make quick, light passes over the surface, where the tip of the flame is just touching the plastic. Start with just a few passes/swipes. You want the plastic to heat up a bit to do the melt/re-melt that gives you the clearer finish, but not too hot so that the shape starts warping. It's definitely a fine line/learned touch, which is why I recommend practicing on a scrap piece first.
Just do a 6~9 inch section at a time, and make sure you give each area time to cool before moving on. You don't want the overall temp of the piece to rise and have it start warping while you are working.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Later,
EV
I KNOW I can do it but I need a ramp to practice on. Everyone says to practice before you do yours but I NEED one to practice on! I don't want to practice on a ramp that can't be replaced now can I. 
Quoted from btw75:Just remember to fill in the scoop damage before the cliffy's. I ruined a set within a month or two thinking it wasn't necessary. At translite is awesome, I had no regrets there.
The ink on my original tl was falling off so I bought the alt one. I think the art work is a lot better then the original.
Not for a while yet, still working on a few so the room is a mess and sold F14 so I'm down to 12. When your as green as me at this hobby it takes 10 times as long to do anything. 
Quoted from JackSlater:Love mine. Nice tickets rule cards. Any recommendation for inserts led kits? Feel free to post pictures of your led'd out LAH for reference...
Check out Pinballbulbs kits. I don't have it in mine but from what I see their other kits are great especially if you add their double spots and strip led's for the apron and back of the pf. This isn't cheep but your game will light up like you won't believe. Check out the pictures they have on their web site.
Quoted from JackSlater:I don't think they make a kit. At least I didn't see it on their website.
Email them and ask if they are going to make a kit.
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:I have, they don't have a machine available to make one.
That's a bummer. 
Quoted from JackSlater:Ok thanks I tend to think the cointakers kits are too bright for my taste. (From what I have seen)
I'm only going for leds in the inserts since it would uplift gameplay/looks and gi is good enough in this pin.
I'll make my own.
What about comet pinball for leds?
I really like the Comet "Crystal Fan" shape bulbs...especially under the pop caps. Try them, I think you will agree.
I had no choice in buying the alt tl, the ink on my original had a million cracks in it that let the light through, I had to do something.
Quoted from papazit1963:I see these are available again from the ebay seller. Would like to know what you think of the quality. I'm still on the fence on getting one or not. They sure look nice from the pics. Let us know!
Mike
I think the quality, print colors, registration, finish in general is what you would expect from a new product. Very nice. Worth the money in my book, that's why I bought it.
Quoted from stevebighead:Just joined the club! Picked one up for 1400 and already has all led's. But, the sound (at least on mine) really sucks. First thing to do is add pinball pro speakers. Anyone done that? Is there a better option out there? Also, this game is in definite need of spotlights, very dark in middle of playfield. Overall I think I am going to really like this one, what a bang for the buck!
Try putting an external sub on it. Get a few of Pinballbulbs double spots with purple bulbs, I put 2 on my T3 and 3 on my JM, both were really dark but can now be played in a completly dark room.
Quoted from kvan99:Aaaaaaahhh!!! Cautionary tale for all the LAH owners, I was working under the pf tonight, zip tying some wires, when I went to put it down it got stuck on the left side as I came around to free it, the pf fell inside and busted both ramps....*sigh*. If anyone has line to a used set please let me know.
Really sorry to hear that. That pf is one heavy mother.
Quoted from Pinballrus:Hi all - quick question, do your drop targets drop all the way to flush with the playfield? Or do they stick up an 8th of an inch or so above the playfield when dropped?
It seemed weird that they would stay slightly above, but couldn't see an easy way to adjust them when I had the bank out of the game.
Thanks!
Mine drop down about 1/4in below the pf with a nice click.
Quoted from Pinballrus:That makes more sense, something must be installed incorrectly on my bank - I'll pull it and have another look. They function well, but shouldn't be sitting above the playfield when down!
Are they original?
Quoted from dmacy:New owner here and appreciate the posts on this thread. The crane is a PITA. I had pulled it so I could resolder one of the flashers and add LED to the pop bumper underneath the one plastic ramp. So with moving things around I had inadvertently pulled a wire off the switch that make for when crane is at rest to lock a ball. I couldn't figure out why it kept wandering. Duh! Fixed it and not bad. Posts here really helped. I have to say after playing last night I'm digging it more. At first I wasn't sure if I like it.
New alternate translite coming along with Cliffy's, LED's are being added (Some were there already), will be adding some Cliffy post covers and cleaning/painting legs/lockbar.
Welcome to the club, the game has a lot going for it. I have the alt tl on mine and it looks so much better the the stock one.
Had my alt. tl on for a few months and it's WAY better then the original. But the game is down because the fork switch in the back right pop up broke. The original is a wire loop that's welded to the switch lever, pt. # 180-5116-00, the replacement is a fork switch pt. # 180-5116-01 at Pinballlife and only $4, Marco wants $11.50. Gonna be a PAIN to get to it for soldering.
Quoted from dmacy:Funny you say that. I had a pin party Saturday night and this died. I swapped the wire loop level assembly onto the new one. It's a bit of a PITA but you take out the three screws for the coil bracket that also holds the switch, unscrew the switch, and swap out. It's not as bad as it looks. Working great now.
I've got it disassembled , that's no problem but soldering those 4 wires onto the 2 tiny leads on the new switch assembly has to be really hard. Or can you combine 4 wires into 2 of 2 then just solder the 2 wires onto the new switch assembly?
It's really strange we both had a pin party on the same night and the same part broke on the same game. WEIRD! 
Quoted from DragonPin:Proud to be an owner of this awesome game. I desperately wanted a modern game with deeper software but everything is so damn expensive!
This was the most expensive Pin I have bought so far, which was still cheap in comparison to other games with similar features.
This game scratches my modern game itch with a vengeance. Way beyond my expectations and is one of the most fun pins Ive ever played. Its turned me into a major DE fan. It has a fun factor that is clearly different from other manufactures but it works for me.
Nothing wrong with DE games but man is the pf on LAH HEAVY. I think it was a LE model of it's day. Great bang for the buck.
Quoted from toyotaboy:I'll be a member of this club within a week, sort of excited to play. I always hear this is a sleeper that deserves more credit.
Makes a great addition to any line-up so much to shoot for. Have fun.
Quoted from Rock914:I have something for your Mustang when you are ready!
Sorry CT kit came with the deal.
Welcome to Pinside, I have the game also but have never done what you have to do, sorry. Do you have an owners manual? You can usually find the part number in there. Can you post a picture of the part?
DE leg bolts are spaced the same distance as other manufacturers. Bally, Williams legs will fit on DE so the metal braces will work, the bolts are the same also. Do you have other games? Measure hole center to hole center to be sure. If you replace the skimpy ones you really should put these on the other 3. Drill out the 6 skimpy #6 screws on each and put #12's in. I did and it makes a big dif. Leave the #6 hole in the center for the ground strap.
Quoted from MustangPaul:DE leg bolts are spaced the same distance as other manufacturers. Bally, Williams legs will fit on DE so the metal braces will work, the bolts are the same also. Do you have other games? Measure hole center to hole center to be sure. If you replace the skimpy ones you really should put these on the other 3. Drill out the 6 skimpy #6 screws on each and put #12's in. I did and it makes a big dif. Leave the #6 hole in the center for the ground strap.
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I have an addition to this post, the DE HD leg braces are a diff. design then the Williams shown in the picture. At Marco the DE HD braces are $8.99 each which is more expensive then the Williams but they are still worth it.
Quoted from akm:OK, I am having a problem with my game now. It seems the audio is tripping, as it is pretty much playing whatever it wants, when it wants. Random sound effects are triggered during the game when they aren't supposed to, sound effects that are supposed to be playing sometimes don't, the wrong music clips are playing (not to mention they are playing when there isn't supposed to be any audio, like when you boot the game up and it's in the attract mode). Example: I start the game, plunge the ball, and the cat mode music starts. And it keeps speeding up, and up, and up, like it does in the cat mode. And it doesn't stop. Ugh.
A few weeks back this started occurring, and after a few power cycles it fixed itself. However, these last three days, it has been stuck and won't revert back to how the sound is supposed to operate/trigger, no matter how long I leave the machine off, or how many times I power cycle it. Has anyone had this happen before and know what the solution is (or where I should look to start troubleshooting)?
Have you tried unpluging it and taking the batteries out and replacing them?
I GOT IT RIGHT!! 
You should feel honored, this is a first for me on PS. Now if you could help me with my back up-kicker problem....
The back up kick and crane don't seem to be in sync. Is the crane supposed to get the ball from the up kick all the time? Replaced the switch because the wire loop was broken off the switch lever but that didn't solve the sync problem.
Hey thanks Matt. Now I have to see if the magnet board is bad, one of the 3, 3amp fusses was not in the game when I bought it so I have to put a fuse in and see if it works or pops that fuse.
The ball will go into the pop up, sit there for a few seconds then pops up and down the ramp, after that the crane will swing over then swing back with no ball. Also the bulb above the crane stop switch buy the pop up is out and the bulb is good. I wonder if that switch and bulb are tied together.
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:Yes, I wonder I just getting longer legs in the back is an option.
Just put a half inch wood block under them and if that isn't enough then a one inch.
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:I prefer a more finished option.
Paint the wood then.
I was told those domes were made just for the game and they have been long gone. You gonna paint them from the inside? Keep us informed.
When I got mine as I changed the inserts to leds I cleaned the inserts with alcohol and a Qtip, they were just black.
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:Just put this in today. I found a truck on eBay and added some LEDs behind the headlights. It's wired in to the GI, so the headlights turn on and off during the game. I'm pretty happy with it.
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That looks pretty sharp and it just fits too.
That's neat info, but how did it save all that after the batteries were taken out. Some kind of nonvolitile (sp?) memory.
Quoted from blondetall:Wow, thats cool. I wish mine still had the audits in it. My mom's Flintstones did, and it made over $43,000 while on route. Too bad mine dont pay for themselves sitting in my basement.
Now THAT'S some serious coin.
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Have had a game for a while but haven't really said anything. Well, just ordered a full set of LEDS and cliffy protectors. So now I will be doing a full tear down which should be fun. Ill take some before and after pictures.
Hey that's great, we always love to see pictures and hear how it's going. Matt knows a lot about the game. One thing that really brightens up the inserts is cleaning them from the underside with Qtips and alcohol.
Quoted from frunch:Funny you asked that, I think I did.
That might explain it then.
Quoted from frunch:I've got my work cut out for me!
Sounds like fun work though.
Quoted from toyotaboy:cleaned my rusty dirty lockdown bar mechanism, which means printing new stickers (which were also horrible looking). If anyone else is looking to do this, here are recreations I made.. Anyone can easily make these themselves, but figured I'd save some people some time.
Also made some custom CRANE decals
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Very nice of you, thank you.
Quoted from kvan99:I actually tried to set it in the crane test and then to have it fail during multiball. So I learned how to adjust it in live play, that worked better. Yes you're correct after I changed the crane mech it still acted it up, when I swapped out the vuk switch it actually worked for a little while, but then after about 3-4 games it missed again. So I'm not sure what the heck it's going on. It seems to me that it should be simple..the motor should rotate till a switch is activated but not the case. If not adjusted it can stop short of the vuk or short of the blue ramp....?
Could it be something in the gears?
Quoted from kvan99:But I bought another gearbox..albeit a used one, because new is not available anymore.
Quoted from toyotaboy:Crane decals look pretty good, spinner looks better without the tearing towards the bottom.
Those that PM'd me, I'll message you back.photo 3.JPG 197 KB
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Looks great. From the looks of your last picture you sure could use a couple of hole protectors.
Quoted from lspin:New to the LAH club, just got it and starting the clean up. Anyone know where I can get this plastic https://img-f.pinside.com/201408/1851687/276709.jpg. The one above the chicken and mball scoop if picture doesn't come through. Thanks
Welcome to the club. Any plastics for the game are going to be REAL hard to find.
Quoted from Astropin:If any one needs them I have a set of ramps for this game:
https://forum-s3.pinside.com/201402/1486954/197276.jpg
I was trying to sell them before but if anyone needs them just cover shipping and they are yours.
I don't need them but thanks. What a Pinsider. 
Quoted from MT45:Last Action Hero owner here and wondering if any of you know where to find replacement motor?
I don't sorry.
Quoted from Shenanigander:well the project is finally complete. with printing delays it took about 2 months.
high detail, red accent, shinny metallic gold replacement tickets now available...(while supplies last)
ebay.com link » Last Action Hero Playfield Ticket Decal Replacement Overlay Pinball Mod Upgrade
compare to the other replacement ticket available here...
ebay.com link » Data East Last Action Hero Golden Ticket Repair Overlay006.JPG 274 KB
Fantastic job, beats the other one hands down. Their shipping is laughable too. I predict their sales will drop to zero very quickly.
Quoted from Kcpinballfan:You are talking about the eyes still correct?
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:I'll take some shots once I install it this weekend.
Yes please.
With the led rings they look great on LAH.
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Having an annoyance here, when the ball is plunged into play about 50% of the time it will bounce off the CRANE targets and go right into the right outlane. The ball saver will save it once but it wont a second time. This also presents a problem when balls are plunged into multiball where there is no ball saver. Nothing obviously is out of adjustment or could be adjusted to prevent this.
Have you replaced the foam backing on the targets?
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Drop targets have foam?
Oups....don't even know my own game.
Quoted from caker137:In case you guys didn't see the TWO YEAR OLD thread I just brought back from the dead, my LAH firmware mod is released now. You can go download the patch file right now!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lah-firmware-mod-coming-soon/
Here is the site I put together to host all the information and files for the mod:
https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/
WOW that is really something. So we can finally talk about what we weren't supposed to talk about. Thanks for doing this and I wish I could take advantage of it but it's waaaaay beyond my ability to do so. 
Quoted from EricR:Nice, hopefully someone with a ROM burner will help out some of the rest of us that don't for a small donation towards their equipment maintenance.
Yes that would be VERY nice of that person.
Quoted from EchoVictor:Ahhh, it's nice to be able to fiinally talk about this! My brother and I were one of the beta testers on this upgrade. I've been living with it in my machine for over a year since I got it, and have logged hundreds of games on it.
The best compliment that I can give is that it feels 100% factory. The extra call outs are great, and the added rules feel completely natural. I can't imagine playing the game without this firmware...
Upgrade yours today!
Later,
EV
Dang a year, I don't know how you did it. Wish I could but I don't have the know now to do it.
Quoted from Kcpinballfan:I see the link but dont have access to a rom burner or have any idea how to burn one. I've also never changed a rom on a game so id have to watch a video to figure that out.
I'm in the same boat. I'll bet many of us are.
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:I broke down and bought a burner, should be here next week...along with an eraser.
Nice. Hope ya bought a few rom's also. 
Quoted from Shenanigander:CLEARANCE TIME! I have a few of these replacement decals left. We will never be running these again.
Pinsider price $20 + $3 shipping
Here is my ebay page with the details on the ticket
ebay.com link » Last Action Hero Playfield Ticket Decal Replacement Overlay Pinball Mod Upgrade116.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Hey Mike, I just pm'd you.
For cleaning I took the lock bar receiver off, cleaned the rust and painted. I also took the start button, gun button and handle off and cleaned but now I can't get the switches back in. They came off really hard and now they just won't go back in. Nothing is broken so why won't they go back in? Anyone have an answer? Is there some trick to putting them back in?
Quoted from webdiddy:Thanks again GoldenOreos.
I cleaned the image up and vectorized it for anyone else missing this plastic,
LAH_Chicken_Plastic.jpg
DOWNLOAD HERE:
https://mega.co.nz/#!RQFn3YZS!-PgV9FZMpTc0zES49bfZ5AuHm2redPMMUjGYxynM5kM
That looks better then new.
Quoted from webdiddy:Hehehe, thanks, yeah it's a little more symmetric.
Now if we could only get it printed like a regular plastic. But I'm dreaming on that one.
Quoted from 0geist0:I just sold my LAH
Quoted from Butch2099:http://pugsotoys.wix.com/pinballalternatives#!translites
This is the site from the guy who sells them, you have to contact him directly via email
[email protected]
I have his TX Sector that I'm going to use as wall art and his LAH in my game and the quality of those 2 is great.
m
Quoted from ozzyzz:I´m installing the cointaker premium led kit right now and and luckily i haven´t counted the hours i spent so far, some lights are a real sucker to reach to.
and the "manual" was a total joke, only got half of it and that is very strange and with many errors.
Well, some hours more and i´m DONE!
Are you cleaning the undersides of the inserts before changing bulbs? That is a must.
Quoted from Stretch7:I think he means the plastic inserts on the playfield that led's will light up....they usually get a blackish film of dust from solenoids and such over time. It will make them shine brighter with new led's if cleaned first
Yup, Q tips and alcohol....lots of Q tips.
Quoted from ozzyzz:Everything is Polished to the max!
OK.
Quoted from ozzyzz:Made the famous "back to school" magic thing as the soldering station was unpacked for the first time in many years.. F8 was BLOWN! everyone else tested glowed fine with 3V batteries
note: it´s not the F8 fuse shown in the picture...
IMG_3062.JPG
Did that fix your problem?
Quoted from pinballshark:Here's some video of my 10 led cop car mod. It's hooked up to the GI and topper flasher circuits. You can also hear some more music in there from Pinsound.
» YouTube video
That took some engineering. Nice. 
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Saint Paul, MN
