(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!

By Matt_Rasmussen

6 years ago

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  • 254 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 minutes ago by BozoTheClown
  • Topic is favorited by 90 Pinsiders


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#1106 1 year ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, since I haven't had the game very long. Your options for lifting the playfield are to either use the side support, or to lift it to vertical position and hook the bungee cord through the hook on the bottom left corner (when vertical). To do work, your probably looking at using the bungee method. On mine, the bungee doesn't even reach. Raising the playfield is the only big flaw I've found with this game.

Yup, same thing on my end. Have managed to hook the bungee cord. But by they then, I'm almost too wore out to work on it. LOL

#1107 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballNZ:

Hi, I want to protect the ticket from wear from the scoop ball ejection and want to put a piece of mylar on the area that wears. Question is how wide and long should I use? Should it be cut out to blend in with the black outline of the ticket ( left hand side) so that in years to come it still is fairly invisible or just do a strip say an inch and a half wide down the ticket where it will wear?
Your thoughts


You could maybe just buy a ticket replacement overlay sold on Pinside. Would cost more, but at least it would protect the original ticket under it, and might look better and be easier on install. I bought one..looks great and is holding up perfect so far (but only been installed maybe 3 months). Can't tell it's there... easy to remove, but can't vouch for when it's been on for a long time.

#1108 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:


Old original post but...

You could maybe just buy a ticket replacement overlay sold on Pinside. Would cost more, but at least it would protect the original ticket under it, and might look better and be easier on install. I bought one..looks great and is holding up perfect so far (but only been installed maybe 3 months). Can't tell it's there... easy to remove, but can't vouch for when it's been on for a long time.

#1110 1 year ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Just reading that you installed the ticket. I bought one but have been hesitant to install it yet. Any tips on installing it? What was you experience installing?


Ha...I did the same thing. It sat there for at least a couple of weeks while I pondered 'how to do it perfectly'...as curse of mine.

Do the obvious - clean of the current ticket area. I believe Mike (the seller) recommended cutting off excess paper to make it easier to install. I don't remember if I trimed all sides or just one, likely doesn't make much diff. Was very simple. I used the long top side to adhere first since it would result in less alignment error. And attach just a small amount of the edge first in case it goes awry and flatten it (like with a credit card or you fingers) as you adhere more to make sure there are no bubbles. Took maybe 30 secs top. Looks perfect. Some people have mentioned it can be peeled off if it's not going on straight, but I didn't have that problem. I did set it on top with the paper attached first to see how the edges aligned.

Your next post will probably be "Yeah, that was easy!" Post how it goes!

#1113 1 year ago
Quoted from Frax:

Can someone post a pic of how the magnets are wired, connectors and whatnot? Mine is...definitely not correct, and magnets are pretty weak because there's no way they're getting proper amount of current. I just need to see a correct setup so I can make new molex connectors. No clue if the three fuses near them is factory or not. It looks like it but the way they're wired is...um...lol.

Hey Frax,

Here you go. If you want, PM me and I'll shoot you a higher res pix, or take others as needed.

Let me know if this OK, this is just one I had...but it is of the magnets.


20171104_231458 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1123 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I have a LAH A1.06 with CPU 1.05. Today while playing the music stopped and the dialog would keep repeating "I'll be back". The game play is OK when this is happening. Anyone know what this is all about? Thanks.

We had the same problem once, I believe the game had developed an issue and had gotten 'confused' (for lack of a better term). I shut the game off, seated some connectors as a precaution, and the problem apparently was resolved after powering back up. Wish I could add more details, but I can't. Not sure if it was hardware related or maybe a software bug (we are running the latest code).

Did you simply try shutting it off and turn it back on?

#1125 1 year ago

Anyone know what keeps the left side of the Danger sign in place? Mine seems to dangling. There is a bracket there behind it with a semicircle notch in it, doesn't seem to be broke or bent. I did notice a nylon bearing on the rod that supports the Danger sign (but not snapped into the bracket). So does the nylon bearing simply fit in the left bracket? If so, doesn't seem like there's anything really holding it in place, no?

I've tried countless searches on the web, but I just can't seem to find any info on this part of the game.

Thanks ahead of time.

Capture (resized).png

#1127 1 year ago

Thanks for the pixs Caker, that helped a lot.

I think the rod just popped out of the bracket and then the nylon bushing slid on the rod. The bracket appears to be OK. Earlier, I suspected that's what happened, and I moved the bushing back into place and pushed it in the semicircle part of the bracket on the left. Seems kind of like a jinky way to secure it tho, thinking maybe something more substantial was missing. But I guess it only gets bashed from the the front, so maybe it's enough. I'll give it a test drive tonight and see what happens. Here's mine afterwards - looks like yours.

I think it's been like this since I got LAH about 6 months ago.20180325_164513 (resized).jpg

#1133 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

While playing LAH today, the music stopped as it has done before. This time the game play was OK and Arnold was not saying "I'll be back". Is the CPU going?

Really simple answer...just try shutting it off and back on again.

#1136 1 year ago

Hi Drummer,

Do you have some basic electronic equipment like a meter, or ideally a scope?

No experience w/RottenDog...but I sure see a lot of negative comments about their power supplies and compatibility. Not sure if it's just people messing things up, or if they really are the culprit...

#1142 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I have a multi meter but I am not sure were to test on the board. I do not want to fry it!

Are there any mods (i.e. Pinsound, extra lights) installed in the game on the +12V line? Not familiar w/the RottenDog power supply, but I suspect there is a +12V test point that you can monitor the voltage (as Capn sort of alluded to). I've seen some discussions where the +12V is unregulated and drops too low - but just repeating what I read...no personal experience.

Take a look and see if any of this applies: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-gnr-12v-drops-low-power-supply-or

Is this your RottenDog power supply?: http://rottendog.us/DPS004.html

#1144 1 year ago

Chances are you need to somehow stayed attached to the 12V test point to see if the voltage dips during play. Ideally, that's what a oscilloscope is for...it shows voltage vs. time - so you can see the voltage dips (or peaks) over time. It does appear the 12V is unregulated. That might be the culprit, if it's really the 12V causing the issue.

2 weeks later
#1167 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

My shaker is weak and sometimes won't come on at all is there a way to test the board it hooks up too before I buy a new shaker

Don't know about testing the board, but I do want to add people have commented about adjusting the weights to reduce the shaking. So once you sort out the board issue, you might want to check the positions of the weights too if it still seems weak. Just a FYI!

3 weeks later
#1176 1 year ago

Hey LAH'ers,

Could someone please snap a close up of the Dekker spinner? Specifically, the area where the micro switch 'lever' is triggered by the spinner target?

I have a new switch per the manual (180-5010-04), and it looks like the lever might need to be slightly bent to close...but if I did, it almost looks like it might be too short. I'm I missing any other parts? The old lever is MIA. Can't seem to find any pics on the intertubes.

New switch sitting on the spinner below (ignore the diode that's almost shorting on the bracket, that needs fixed!).

20180513_163413 (resized).jpg

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#1178 1 year ago

Hey Mike,

Thanks! I think I see two things. One, and obviously, the lever has a bend in it! Secondly, I think my spinner might be from a different DE.

Thanks again for your help. I'll sort it out based on your pics!

#1179 1 year ago

Mike, LAh'ers

For one thing, the lever on mine is indeed too short (it is the correct part tho, 1.25" actuator). Secondly, my spinner is green, wonder if it's off a different game? So the mystery continues... Time to snoop around Marco Specialties. I guess there could have been a service bulletin about it.

20180514_191935 (resized).jpg
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Updated: Just checked the spinner, it is the right size (1.25 x 1.50"). Going to order a switch with a longer actuator.

#1181 1 year ago

Perhaps F8 or F9? Got a meter to check?

Capture (resized).png

#1185 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Undocumented is a piano wire finger that pushes the bar assembly forward.
I had one that broke and made the bar target swing-y.

Any chance you can snap a pic when you get a free sec? Undocumented...I concur! Can't find any info about it! Did you fix it yourself or figure out a part number?

#1187 1 year ago

Ha, I can believe it..the speaker covers say "LW3"! "Here, try this, looks close enough..."

#1188 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Does anybody know what sends power to the middle trough solenoid to kick the ball out


This sort of points you to the area. If the diverter, crane, drop targets are working, then the +32V is likely OK unless there is a broken wire. So you maye have to look at CN-12 -8, which looks like it goes to Q24. I originally thought the 50V fuses powered the coil - I may have misguided you.

Capture (resized).png

#1189 1 year ago

Following the schematic, CN-12-8 goes here. You can start by checking the connections. Got a meter?

Capture (resized).png

#1192 1 year ago

So you are not getting 32V at the coil, correct?

#1196 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Correct when I jump it off from the side coil then it fires

So it sounds like you get need to follow the wire until you find the missing +32V, correct? Should be straight forward by using a multi-meter.

The new problem...fix the first one before chasing the other

#1197 1 year ago


Excellent documentation w/the ruler! Huge help since I have a feeling I'll be bending with some piano wire I have for RC planes. Yep, I've never seen that during on-line search. How does it install (apologies if needed..don't mean to be a bother)?

#1202 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Found my problem 2 blown fuses does any local auto or homedepot see these fuses

Good for you. The older glass fuses are getting hard to find..everything is the the newer plastic wedge style fuses...for cars. You can get the entire kit at Marcos. Wouldn't hurt to go thru all of them to make sure they didn't put put in oversized fuses. If you want to try local, try a AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc.

2 weeks later
#1223 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Hey everyone. I'm going to look at a Last action Hero on Friday. Hopefully I'll be joining this club. Anyways, is there anything that I need to look for that's a deal breaker? In most ads it seems people often refer to the Crain. If this one doesn't work are part available for. Thank you for any insight on this game. They are asking $2k for it.

For as much DE bashing at Pinside, it's a fun game. Loaded with all the bells and whistles. Mines been rather rock solid and dependable. That game can have a looong playtime - it can really wear you out! A lot of fun.

Things to look for...you covered the crane already. Cap did an excellent job of pointing out key topics. The ticket wear...I had some minor wear, but you can buy a new reproduction ticket that looks absolutely great. If the magnets are bad, they can be replaced along with the driver boards.

BTW, DE are notorious for speaker hum from the electronics. Doesn't bother me, not noticeable unless everything is quiet...

Good luck!

#1227 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

May be joining the club tomorrow going to look at one hoping the ticket is not bad kinda pumped looks like a fun game

Don't sweat the ticket...they were only like $35ish and are perfect. I believe the individual did numerous runs until he got it right. Not sure if he has any left (he was running low), but pm me if you need one and I'll look up the info you. I can post a pic if you like.

#1229 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Game didn't work out today. Im going tomorrow morning to get it, or as I told my wife, I'm going to "look" at it.

Famous last words...

#1231 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

what should i pay for a game that doesnt work if everything is there?

Doesn't work as completely dead? Or it lights up, but doesn't play a game, etc.?

Boy, there's a lot of variable that range from a cheap repair to needing new boards, power supply, etc. Kind of hard to toss out a single answer. Probably just as important, how's your skills fixing pinball machines? Understand some electronics, have a meter, and can read a schematic?

I guess I should add I paid $1850 for ours about a year ago, and was in very good shape.

#1233 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

I got it. $1500, pretty much all the fuse are blown. Now, im replacing them to see if i can get more than PF lights
PF is dirty. A little bit of wear on the ticket. cabinet is in great shape Trans, in super sharpe. No magnet wear. Does have the shaker motor in it.However broken drop targets. Ill post some pics soon

Not a bad price. The playfield has mylar on it, so probably should clean up rather well. Make sure you check the manual for the right size fuses.

Let the fun begin!

#1237 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

anyone know where I can get the ticket overlay?

I'll look up the info on mine, might be Sunday tho. It was out of Canada. Wasn't a big deal, just had to buy a stamp for postage up there from the states. Was cheap, like $1.50 for the stamp.

#1241 1 year ago


Boy, not too shabby looking at all! Looks like you might have scored!

More pics as you go thru it, please. It would be an interesting read.

Here's some pics of mine. The replacement ticket, instruction cards I found, and one of the playfield after I added LEDs. And yes, I have LW3 speaker grills...

20180609_232851 (resized).jpg20180609_232911 (resized).jpg20180609_232916 (resized).jpg20180609_232935 (resized).jpg

#1245 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

anyone know where I can get the ticket overlay?

Here's the original link for the ticket: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-replacement-ticket/page/2

#1256 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Update on my game. WHAT A BIG F'ing MESS! So I picked it up this past Saturday. The game wouldn't come on. I tested the fuses and found 2 blown fuses on the power supply, 3 blown on the driver board. I replaced them. As soon as I turn on the game most of them blow. I messed with it some more then figured it was more than i wanted to hassle with. So I took the game to my operator friend that repairs all my boards when I have issues. He is really good at the repairs. He's had it since Monday. He told me there is no power going to the main board. That the person who worked on it before i got it tried to repair the power supply and put something in backwards thus causing all this problems on the other boards. He did say there is a blow chip on the driver board too. UGH! Hopefully he gets it working soon so I can shop out the game and play it. All my parts that I needed for it came in today. Guess I should have ordered some Rottendog boards and called it good. I also want to add the Pinsound sound board. Those custom builds sound really cool. Anyways, I'll throw an update on here once i get it running. Fingers crossed it's soon.

Well, you did get it at a very reasonable price, so you might still be in good shape dollar-wise when it's all said and done. RottenDog - yeah, but if the boards can be repaired at reasonable cost, then I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. I assume your friend knows when to call it quits on a board repair (i.e. don't spend $150 on board repair when a new replacement board is $100).

Perhaps you can clean it up yourself rather than shop it out, or maybe not have them strip everything but still get a decent cleaning done at a reasonable cost.

Hang in there, you'll enjoy it!

#1257 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Thought I would share this. I have had some requests in the past about lighting the scoops. Here is how I did it. Of course this was 5 years ago when I first implemented this into the game. I would do a better job now. But, it's still working so - it it ain't broke - dont fix it. All I did was attach a light socket under the PF near the scoops and install a bendable LED to slide into position. The bulbs are powered by the same bulb that is the call out for that scoop.

Nice mod Capn. Quick question: I assume having the LED shoved up against the edge and with the curvature of the ball - the LED never comes in contact with the ball, correct?

#1260 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I was wondering if I could get any feedback on a couple of things I am considering for the game
First the color dmd if anybody has seen it
And to help the sound was considering upgrading the speakers with pinball pro or something similar
Thank you! Loving this game

I don't think you can get a color display yet...at least from ColorDMD anyways.

#1261 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

... Id rather keep the original boards if their fixable.

I don't blame you - all mine are original too. But there is one exception to my comment - the power supply. Newer switching power supplies are just so much more efficient, a lot less waste heat dissipated. That's one area I've often considered upgrading (but haven't). So much heat is wasted in a linear regulator, but they are very quiet. A poorly designed switcher can have a lot of noise riding on the DC, and I really haven't investigated which ones seems to be the best in that regard.

#1264 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Sorry trying to respond to mbwalker it is listed on their site that’s why i was wondering

Hmmm, I looked again, but don't see it. Maybe you are referring to the one the colors can be changed, but it's not a full color animation?

#1268 1 year ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Actually sometime this year you will all be pleasantly surprised..... A little birdie told me!


#1270 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

... When you are suppose to hit a certain scoop the whole scoop lights up.


Thanks, I'll have to look closer at you mod - I was thinking it was just part of the GI lighting. Good to know that. Already been on Comet looking for the lights!

Thanks again, really looks nice - Mark

#1273 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Overlay for ticket having a very hard time finding

pm sent!

#1290 1 year ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Only one for me TWILIGHT ZONE

Well, you can always buy another later. BTW - Good job on the mods!

#1293 1 year ago

Did you own it for 5 years folded up, or someone else?

2 weeks later
#1350 1 year ago

Got a DMM (digital multimeter)? Better yet, an oscilloscope?

#1367 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

... Surprisingly enough the crane is held to the rod by a single allen wrench screw....

Does loosening the screw also allow you to change the light bulbs in the cab? I've been hesitating swapping those out w/LED's.

#1370 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

When you loosen that screw it gives you the ability to remove the crane entirely.

Thanks! Moved up to the top on my 'to do' list! I alway thought the original lights were wimpy.

#1372 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

The screw is broke off in my crane. I was able to put in led's though with difficulty...

Thanks for your (unfortunate) heads up, I'll treat it w/kid gloves. I can live with the incandescent bulbs if I think I'm running into problems.

#1374 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

On my third ball it seems I am given the green light to just get multiball
Is this normal?

Yep (don't know if that's true for all versions of code).

#1385 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

I just updated my code to the last one. 1.12v I was using 1.08. What are the main differences? I havent had this game long enough to notice the differences.

I know there's a posting on Pinside somewhere that shows the differences (wasn't hard to find). I recently updated to the unofficial 1.13 code and really enjoy it. There's callouts in the original game that weren't apparently used, and the gentleman that updated it to 1.13 enabled them, along with cleaning up the rules a bit. Very happy with it.

BTW, if you haven't ditched the battery backup yet, now is a good time to install a NVRAM. The memory is in a socket - so just pop it out and install the new memory. Note: you will lose all your prior scores/settings. But once done...done forever. Excellent mod for $15. I got mine thru Pinitech - great guy to work with.

#1388 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Being new to my LAH, how do you update the code? Just change out a ROM? Just bought mine a couple weeks ago. Not sure what I'm running.

Yep - just swap out chips. I get mine mostly from Matt's Basement Arcades (sponsor here). He has detailed instructions. If you swap out the memory w/NVRAM, I got that from Pinitech (also a sponsor here). Both great places to deal with. Both already in sockets, so about 15 min tops. Easy peasy.

#1397 1 year ago

I missed the ColorDMD hints...and I don't seem to see the threads from them when I searched...anyone got a link, please? Been on travel for a while, maybe I missed it?

#1399 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

Here you go all 3 clues:

hmmm...obscure. But they are good at that! Number 2 is obvious. Let me think about the others.

BTW, thank you!

#1440 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Just received my V 1.13 ROM and my new display ROM last night. Installed them both. I've already noticed a difference with the 1.13 unofficial version. Very cool.

I'm completely happy with my 1.13 - but still learning. Notice the new callouts? Rather neat they were in the ROM, but never used.

#1443 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Do they have the LCD available for LAH? I thought I only saw it in LED

I saw the same thing...

#1453 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

You can install the LCD in LAH if you want to do a permanent mod to the speaker panel and then you have to email ColorDMD for the color ROM for the LCD, as it will not be on the website. LED is the official supported display for LAH and other games (Tommy, TFTC, R&B, LW3) with the same speaker panel.

Any chance you can elaborate what mods are needed for the LCD version?

#1463 1 year ago

^^^^ Ditto here too.

Got ROM's for 2 or 3 of my games from Matt's Basement Arcades too. Excellent service, traded more than a few lengthy e-mails and he is has always been very helpful with some technical talk - above the call of duty (no problems, just techie-talk). Never a doubt in my mind when ordering from him.

I also donated to the gentleman that created 1.13. Very nice improvement. We need people like that supporting LAH software upgrades.

#1495 1 year ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Made you guys a home on Facebook! Come join and add some content!
Last Action Hero Pinball Owners:
Looking for less game specific? Don't forget about Data East Pinball Owners:

Ugh, I don't do facebook. Yes, I'm the ONE guy on the planet who doesn't. I guess you guys are stuck with me here.

1 week later
#1525 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

For those of you that have installed the ticket overlay on your playfield, have you seen any wear on it over time? Should I put some mylar over it?

I asked the same question about the same time I bought mine. Still going strong 6 months later - not a single problem. For home use..can't ever see it wearing out.

1 month later
#1564 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

I am still in the everyday search for the speaker grills...

Boy, let me know if you find any stock. Mine still say 'LW3'!

#1566 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Telling ya man my mind says just light them up and forget about.
I am having a hell of a time finding the plastic piece for the start button.
I have the chip that says start but the plastic that covers it looks like someone took a lighter and was like “fuck Joe” or whoever had the game.
I found a NOS gun that was nice
Great game.Really want that pinsound though with Zeppelin in it put it over the top for me just be ridiculous.

More than once I thought about just taking the speaker grills out, blasting them w/a spray can...and call it a day.

Don't forget the new ColorDMD option too!

#1572 1 year ago
Quoted from caker137:

Mine came with R&B grills. I flipped them upside down (already black on the back) for a few years. Then when I got the correct ticket grills, I still had the R&B's, which now hang on my wall for decoration.
What is the deal with all the LAH speaker assemblies getting swapped?

I suspect at some point in it's life the DMD gave up the ghost, and the owner just swapped the entire panel w/a LW3 sitting around. Probably a routed game. it is a re-import from Italy...It's traveled more than me!

#1573 1 year ago

Now if I could just find a LW3 w/LAH grills...'even steven' swap.

1 week later
#1615 1 year ago

A side comment...change the batteries to lithium. Lithium's are not prone to leaking. You can buy them about anywhere. Cost more than alkaline, but still not a lot.

#1618 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

chrishibler would be happy to give you an estimate and would even install NVRAM as it would get rid of batteries forever.

You jogged my memory about the NVRAM since I did this mod sometime ago...the chip in LAH is already in a socket. Easy peazy mod, no reason not to change and ditch the batteries for good.

1 week later
#1661 1 year ago

Hi MM,

There's a couple of other things you could look at:

1) There's a line that goes to CN7, problem might be on that path. I don't have enough experience to know if you can just unhook that connector, maybe someone else could chime in. The schematic is somewhat vague regarding CN7.
2) D2 might be intermittent.
3) Don't forget C7...it might be on it's last leg.
4) The regulator IC (IC1). That always a possibility, but since TR5 handles all the heavy duty work...I wouldn't think so.
5) An obvious questions, but I have to ask: Did you put the electrolytics in correctly? They are polarized.
6) What about checking solder connections? R5 and R7 set the voltage, if there's a bad solder joint, that might do it.
7) TR5: That's the part that supplies the high current and regulates the voltage to +5VDC.
8) C4: That might be the problem since it will have a high inrush current. I would likely change that. Does it look like it bulging?

Sorry for the long laundry list...just looking at all the 'heavy hitters' that I thought might be the cause. Schematic below to help the discussion.
power_supply (resized).PNG

#1663 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

This may be correct. I did removed and replace the BR. Maybe I installed it wrong?
I will take a few pictures and upload.

I would think if the BR is in wrong, it blow F1 instantly. Is that the case?

#1669 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

It blows about 5 to 8 second after I turn on the pin.
If I had to guess the same amount of time everytime.


Ha, I kept it short! LOL.

With a messed up BR1, it would blow as soon as you hit the 'on' switch even if it is a slow blow, so if it's taking 5-8 seconds...then something else is likely going on. If you replace F1, and turn it on, does it get hot (i.e. glows red) right away? Not sure how long a sloblo fuse takes to pop, but I would think it is less than 5-8 sec. Of course, it depends on how much current the problem is drawing.

And I would think the power supply comes up long before that. But I'm just 'thinking out loud' and don't really know the time constants. So to me, it sounds like the power supply might be OK, but when something somewhere else turns on (and the fuse blows)...there's the problem. I admit I not an expert w/the circuit, I'm just a EE and looking at the schematic. Far more people with knowledge about the power supply than me, just my 2 cents and don't want to steer you wrong.

I'd take a closer look at that CN7 path, and try to figure out what's on it. Again...just guessing

Testing R5, R6...the connections look pretty good. Just find a magnifier and take a close look at the solder connections (or just resolder). That holds true for all the connections You can check a diode w/the DMM...just look for the diode symbol on the dial. But testing in the circuit is iffy since it's still in the circuit and everything connected to it can result in false readings. Put the leads on way it should read open, switch them and it should read ~0.7. More often than not, the reading will be bougus unless you remove and test. I'd still test them in the circuit away (with the power off).

My comment about D2 - that was in error (I looked at the circuit wrong) - but diodes are prone to failure, so not a bad idea to test anyway. D2 doesn't look bad, the lead just looks a corroded for some reason.

Hope I'm not steering you wrong on any of my comments! Just for the heck of it, here's a link to the regulator: https://www.futurlec.com/Motorola/MC1723CP.shtml

Good luck!

#1670 1 year ago

Also...take a look at D14 - that goes to the CN7 connector

#1675 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Mother of god...
lol. Okay, the soldering job on and around the BR is umm. Questionable? Like my previous post states. You will need to confirm continuity on this board to the components. OR you can get an aftermarket and be done with it and never have to worry about it again. I suggest the latter, personally. It will save you lots of time and effort - plus it will make your machine more reliable, and less heat in the backbox.

Ditto on Cap's comment,

Not nearly enough heat and/or no rosin to help it flow. I should add, don't use solder meant for plumbing. Get some decent solder that has lead in it (flows easier than without) that's meant for electronics (non corrosive). Same with rosin...non corrosive for electronics. Rosin will help it flow and also makes it a little easier on an inexperienced person (no offense). Much of the new solder nowadays is lead free...and it flows like crap. Most solder has rosin in it already.

If you moved it and it developed problems, I'd be inclined to look for an electrical connection that popped off or shorted to something else rather than an issue with a part (resistor, diode, etc). Ever chase down the CN7 connection?

#1677 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Yes you are correct. My soldering is bad..... Really Bad on the BR
I do have a good iron and I did use Rosin Core 97/3 1.6mm wire.
But I did not have any Flux to help me.
Do you guys think I can fix the BR with a flux pen? Or different wire?
Let me know.....
mbwalker..... no I have not chase down the CN7 connection just yet.
P.S. I will try and fix it tonight with what I have.....

High current traces (like the BR traces) are rather wide and really soak up the heat. Any idea what the wattage or temperature of your iron?

97/3 has a higher melting point than solder with lead in it (usually 60/40). Googling it: 97/3 is 221C and 60/40 is 180C. That might be part of the problem too.

#1679 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Yea, I run my iron about 800......
Here is the back, now. A little better...........
[quoted image]

How big is the iron tip? Small tips just don't transfer the heat well. Great for resistors, but monster traces and parts - not so much. I use a 'chisel' (i.e. wide) on the big stuff. Actually, people can do more damage by using too small of an iron than an oversized one...they keep the heat on the joint forever waiting for it to heat up. Better that it flows in a timely manner and remove the iron.

Don't mean to get you sidetracked on likely what isn't the problem - but the solder should flow and have a nice fillet between the lead and the board. I've used the 97/3 before, it definitely needs more heat to flow than 60/40. Silver solder is even worse!

By no means criticizing - soldering is an acquired skill, takes practice.

#1683 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Curious question. I'm putting a video together right now on leveling machines. I'm showing methods using the mobile app vs. eyeballing with dropping a ball down the center of the PF. Using the app on this game shows that I'm off to the left quite a bit, but if I level it according to the app - the PF is way off center. The ball falls on my left slingshot. Curious. All my other games did fine. Anyone else use the app to level your games? Mainly curious if anyone else has this result on this game.

Try this...rotate your phone 180 degrees and see if it reads the same or different (same trick applies to a real level). Also, does something reasonable flat (i.e. a new cement floor) give you approx 0 degrees?

#1696 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Holy COW...
You were right!!!! I had the CN7 in wrong, someone replace the connector and it can go either way.
Almost everything is good, but now I have no GI lighting and back box lights. Flasher are good, and under the play field good.
On well on to the next problem...OUT

Hah, lucky guess on my end.

#1697 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Holy COW...
You were right!!!! I had the CN7 in wrong, someone replace the connector and it can go either way.
Almost everything is good, but now I have no GI lighting and back box lights. Flasher are good, and under the play field good.
On well on to the next problem...
readings on Power board
V12+ 10.20
V12- -13.10
V5+ 4.98
Good? or Bad?
I also found J5 on the PPB is burn to crap; I will be redoing that connector later today or tomorrow.

No GI...check fuses F1 thru F4. I think there's a relay that turns them on/off - you can check that too, you should hear it "click". Also, check the connector that feeds the lights. Pics below. Can't comment on the voltage measurements.

GI_fuses (resized).PNGlights (resized).PNGrelay (resized).PNG

#1701 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Yes.... I check all fuses again, both on the Power board and PPB; all good.
I'm not sure what relay you are referring to? And which board is it on....
And I'm not sure about the clicking sound....
I also replaced the connector at J5 on the PPB

I just turned mine on to double check. The backbox lighting is on, then goes off when a ball is sent into the shooter lane. At the same time I heard a click, so there is a relay switching them. It's located on the power supply board. Here's the interesting part....it goes to the same CN7 connector we've chatted about.

My Spidey sense tells me to look there again, especially since someone fooled around with it. Found a pic of it. Relay circled in red. Is that CN7 to the right, lower middle? I can't see the entire RefDes, Just the 'CN' part.
ps_pwb (resized).PNG

#1703 1 year ago
Quoted from bladerunner:

Would someone lease tell me what the last code for LAH is and where I can get it? TY

Mattsbasementarcade. Great experience everytime i bought from him.

#1709 1 year ago

I had ver 1.12, then tried the 'official '1.13'. You can read about the diff here: https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/home

Rather interesting, especially the voices that were in the ROM's but never used.

#1712 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Got it... can I test the Relay while it's on the board, or do I have to take it off to test it.
Thanks again,

First off, I'd check the CN7 connector.

You can test the relay on the board. Grab a multimeter and check for voltages. Both the voltage that turns on the relay, and the voltages it switches for the GI.

I assume you have a schematic?

#1716 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

The CN7 connector looks great; no burnt wires or anything suspect.
I'm not too skilled with a multimeter. Can you tell me how to test the relay with the MM?
Yes, I have the schematic.
But I've done my own (half ass) test. When I turn the pin on, I can see the GI light flash for half a second and hear the relay click. When I turn off the pin I hear the relay click again. I know it's not the best test but it's something.
Hope that helped.
Thanks again,

So the backlights don't turn on when the relay clicks? I should add I haven't had this problem so everything I mention is just from me looking at the schematic - so I might make mistakes. Just be forewarned.

Not to beat a dead horse, but did you compare the CN7 wires on the picture I posted with yours (sames color wire in the same location)?

#1719 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

That's fine. Any guess is better then mine.
Yep... same color same pins..... All looks good.
See pic below.
[quoted image]

And the backlights don't turn on when the relay clicks?

#1722 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

Correct no backlights; but the flashers are working in the backglass.
If that helps.....

Yes, thanks! Might be Wed before I get a chance to reply.

#1723 1 year ago

Take a look at CN8 with the multi-meter. Put it on AC voltage (not DCV), and maybe a 20Vish range (you'll be reading 6.3VAC). Important: Make sure the meter leads are in the correct socket on the meter to read voltage, not current!! You'll need to put the probe leads on two separate pins at once. For example, to check the playfield lights (which work), place one probe on CN8 pin 9, the other pin 4. It should read around 6.3V if the PF lights are on. That will be good way to check a known working circuit. Do the same for the ones labeled backbox and see what you get.

If you are unsure of the multi-meter setup, post a good pic and we'll make sure it is set up right. Don't want you doing more harm than good!

CN8 (resized).PNG
#1727 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

So I was digging and I found something:
If you look at post #4 If you remove CN12 all the GI light will come on. AND THEY DID!!!
Then they go on to talk about removing a "transistor." What transistor are they talking about? And should I removed or replace the transistor? Q28??
In addition, I think I have a rebuild kit for CN 12.... maybe.......................... Yes I DO.

The transistor is Q28 on the mpu board. But if the relay on the old power supply clicked, then it sounds like Q28 must be good, if I'm not mistaken. But as Cap mentioned, you eliminated all the other possible problems power supply by installing a new one. So some of the info sounds like it's conflicting (the other thread talked about Q28 being shorted, but if your relay clicked, Q28 is good), were you sure it's the relay on the power supply clicking and not another relay prior?

#1734 1 year ago

So Q28 in the other thread - they discussed removing q28 which prevented the relay from shutting the lights off. You can try that, but keep in mind it was not LAH, so try to double check it is q28.

#1738 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

So, here are 2 pictures.. one of the Power board and one of the main board.
I just re seated all the connectors....... nothing.
So, Q28...... is that the tiny black cap or is the "TIP" transistor..... I guess I need to look at my manual.
P.S. Some of those connectors are super tight on the new board..... crap.
[quoted image][quoted image]

This should be Q28.

Side comment, ditch the batteries and plug in a NVRAM after you sort this out. Simple mod and you never have to worry about battery leakage.

Q28 (resized).PNG
#1742 1 year ago
Quoted from madmatt1:

IT works!! I just removed Q28..... Super easy and clean.
I did see some shaddy "fixes" behind the motherboard... but I'll leave it for now.
Everything is running good but....... light flickers a tiny bit went I use the flippers and the speakers hum a little.
(Not a big deal........ just trying to get everything perfect)
On a different note I will replace Q28 next time I order pinball parts.
Next... NVRAM and new CRANE stickers
Thank you for all your help,
OUT[quoted image][quoted image]

Sweet! Good for you! Lots of smart people here (not me) to help you!

#1744 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

When you order a new TIP122. Order a couple of extras. Good to have some for backup. Glad you got him going!

No kidding, shipping is probably more than the part, so load up on extra stuff!

#1747 1 year ago

The hum is a common problem on DataEast machines. A fair amount of posts here discussing it.

1 week later
#1757 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

I've been thinking about this and maybe Big Mistake is not like the other semi-transparent inserts because the inside joke is they intentionally made it different to look like a big mistake. That does not explain the Chicken insert though.

I just checked mine too...ditto here. Hmmm, anything in the movie that would be related (can't say I paid that much attention to notice)?

1 month later
#1768 11 months ago
Quoted from JSBebop2071:

Rom 1.13. Audits and adjustments. Can someone explain Adj 45 rerace criterion?

Can't answer your question, but this gent can: https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/home

He wrote the 1.13 version.

#1771 11 months ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

LOL Apparently my post the other day didn't save...
Trivia like this bugs me, so I already reached out to Caker, he didn't add that option and didn't know what it was.
Only thing I had found on google was mentioning it was there on a previous game...I think it was R&B, so I'm wondering if it's not LAH specific and/or generic/leftover code like the printers.

Maybe you could check the manuals for other DE games and see if it is mentioned/explained? I agree, at least respect to sounds, DE recycled the crap out of those. I played a LW3 not long ago, half the time I thought I was playing LAH given the sound effects!

#1775 11 months ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

I thought I read this in the thread here somewhere, but I cannot find it anymore. So apologies for the repeat question.
My LAH sound is not as voluminous anymore as it used to be, there is zero low or base, but it is not that the sub is not working anymore. Simply all the lows are cut. Any idea?

Any chance the bass speaker just died from age? The suspension/cone material does tend to turn to dust over the years. Had the same problem w/Getaway.

2 weeks later
#1799 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

My sound is out again. Pin will occasionally say "I'll be back". During play there is no sound. Can I replace the sound board to fix this? Probably worn out.

Does it keep repeating this? I had that happen once. Turned the pin off, turned it on again. Never happened again. Must be a bug somewhere in the code.

#1802 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Cycling the pin does not help. I had the problem before and it will go away and come back later. (no pun intended!) I need a permanent fix.

I guess we will have to dig into this further! A lot of experienced people on this thread to help.

Did you leave it long enogh to disharge the caps, maybe 30 seconds?

#1806 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Cable reseat worked! When you think the worst, sometimes it is the simple stuff that you forget is all it takes. Thanks!

Never hurts to wiggle the connectors on an old game every so often. Simple is good.

#1815 10 months ago
Quoted from Rando:

Finally a member of this club!
LAH just delivered, looks great, sounds great, plays great. Couple pics below, happy to finally add this to my collection, enjoyed moving it from my Wish list to owned...

Good for you, welcome to the 'most under appreciated pin' thread. Always fun to play. Plenty of help here to sort out the switch problem if needed.

#1821 10 months ago
Quoted from Cash_Riprock:

I’ve recently been playing this game on an IPad and really enjoy it. Arnold’s call outs kinda’ bug me but I can live with it.
I have Dirty Harry and Ripleys.
Never saw the movie. Can you understand game better by doing so? And, is it a staying fun factor? Thinking of trying to find a nice one. Thank you in advance to those in the know.

The movie was on Roku and Crackle for free. Silly fun, like the pin.

1 week later
#1831 10 months ago

Neat...but this caught my eye. Mind elaborating?

pasted_image (resized).png
#1833 10 months ago

Thanks - never saw that before.

1 week later
#1844 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can someone please confirm the dimensions of the MPD topper emblem (see attached). I'm told it is a 3.5" circle.
Additionally, has anyone already redesigned it that would let me have a copy of their file for a restoration (helping out a friend)?
It would also be great if someone who has a nice quality original could post a good close-up photo.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.[quoted image]

Using a digital mics ....3.513"

PM and I will send original jpeg.

LAH_badge (resized).jpg
#1861 9 months ago

Looks like your brown is a little off. That was with a camera flash, so perhaps a little blueish tint on my end.
pasted_image (resized).png

#1864 9 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

I don't think the color is going to be THAT noticeable of a difference. But here you go to see for yourself. The outer ring is more of the original, and the inner ring is what has been reproduced. Either color would suffice for a replacement. The emblem is a quick glance marker on the game. I wouldn't be too concerned about it being 'perfect'.[quoted image]

Don't disagree Cap, was just pointing it out. I had been taking a fair amount of pictures and measurements (sent via e-mails to Tant), with and w/o a flash...so wasn't sure if he caught the difference of the brown or not.

#1873 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Also, I just sent you an email. Anyway you could get me one final measurement of the rivet head diameter on the front of the emblem?

Rivet head: 5.6mm.

#1876 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks. Thickness (depth) of rectangle bracket that the emblem mounts to?


#1883 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Everyone, I need somebody's help, please. Since these plastics are absolute gold and nobody has responded that they have an extra one to sell, I'm working on a custom made version of one that I would be willing to sell if/when I execute.
What I need at this point are some exact measurements so that I can size the plastic. Can someone please provide the exact length and width in mm per the position of the green lines in my graphic (I have the shape and I've colored appropriately, but just don't know dimensions)?
I make my plastics out of Lexan (quite the pain, honestly, with all the cutting and shaping), which is slightly thicker but much more durable than stock plastics. I adhere the printed graphic to it so it is not painted, but the final product comes out quite nice, is extremely durable, and does not overtly stand out from the other plastics. Up to this point, I've had to adhere the graphic to the top (photo quality print with OEM photo inks & paper, then laminated with gloss vinyl), but I have some new adhesive sheets that I want to test that may allow me to adhere from the bottom side without distorting the graphics (still need to test). For reference, here is an example of two of the plastics I have created and sold for the Getaway (both plastics above the two target banks are my custom ones): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/70#post-3415047
To set expectations, at this point I'm thinking I would charge $20 including postage to US. I obviously need to get one created with lots of pics before anyone commits, but thought I would throw it out there.
[quoted image]

Will pm tonight, after work.

#1910 9 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I've been kicking the tires on a LAH sitting at 2000$ for a bit now.
Can someone give me an HONEST assessment of price for LAH these days? I have a JP and am concerned that they're too damn similar to have each in a small collection.

Fun game with ALL the bells and whistles. Some of our other games include Houdini, AS Pro, JD, and Getaway. So a little bit of everything. LAH still holds it's own. Wouldn't be the last game I play for the night since if you light it up, it's an adrenaline rush. Running the 1.13 code which tamed it down a bit since 1.12.

2K seems like a reasonable price if it's not a beater. DE doesn't get enough love on Pinside, IMHO.

1 week later
#1938 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Quick update on my mods: Topper Emblem, Spinner Plastic, and Spinner Decals. I've been working closely with a LAH owner, and I think that I'm almost there now. As you can imaging, it takes lots of time mailing things, getting feedback, making changes, mailing updated items again, etc. At this point I think I'm good on sizes and shapes with just some minor tweaks, but now we are working on better colors. I'm hoping to have all of the colors finalized by the end of the week, and when I do I will post everything together in this thread and make the items available for purchase.

Tantrum is really going out of his way to make these as close to original as possible (given the reference pins are 30 years old). Kudos to his finesse, I suspect not too many pay that much attention to details...he does.

#1951 9 months ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

... my machine is the so called "test" machine.

There might be more than one 'test' machine out in the wild.... Glad that more than one LAH owner can help out Mr. Tant. He's doing a great job for the LAH community!

#1954 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Since I don't have the machine, I don't know much about it. What is the purpose of that, and why did they not theme it (is it just clear on everyone's machine)?
I could certainly made a decal for it, but have a few concerns/needs:
1) Really odd shape, so I would need an exact trace including screw holes or for someone to actually let me borrow their plastic for decal development.
2) Since it is so close to another plastic, color matching is a concern. Again, I don't own the machine, so it would be best if I actually had one of the plastics with film on it and plenty of blue so I can do my best to match color & style.
3) How many would be interested in actually buying the decal. It takes effort to design and create this stuff, so I don't like doing it if I can't get at least 5-10 people interested.

Clear on mine too. Maybe the best thing to do is reuse some PF art rather recreating. Or perhaps make a collage from PF art. PM me if you want PF pics to play around with.

1 month later
#2020 8 months ago


Any interest in making the ticket decal for the speaker grill? I got LW3 on mine and I know the LAH speaker grilles almost never pop up for sale anywhere. At times I've seen one, but never a pair. Stick a decal on, poke thru the holes.

#2023 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not familiar with it. Can you point me to some pics? Also, are you saying it is a standard decal with holes poked through after it is applied? Finally, I’ve seen a post recently (don’t remember where) that some guy was making speaker decals. His already had holes which confused me how one insures they all line up.

I would think lining the holes up would be a royal PIA. Likely putting a solid decal over and poking holes thru it would be better.

#2025 7 months ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

Hi, I have a pair of LAH grills in as new condition, £25 + postage at cost

Thanks! Postage is probably pricey to the states tho?

Wish a state side dealer carried them then I could just tack on to an existing order.

#2032 7 months ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

I am working away from home this week but will get a cost for you at the weekend. They shouldn't be too bad as they will go in a card backed envelope.

Matt - Thanks, I wouldn't go out of your way tho, I'm not too worried about the LW3 speaker covers.

4 weeks later
#2055 6 months ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

It’s coming

3 weeks later
#2089 6 months ago
Quoted from TREX:

As far as the spinner goes. it appears this had a shorter lever in it thus causing the issues...

I had the same problem when I replaced my spinner switch. Even tho the replacement part number was right, lever was way too short.

#2090 6 months ago

Hmmm.... Wonder why my magnets stopped working?

First time I looked at this board, what a kludge! Wrong connectors, two screws missing. Oh well, the joys of fixing other peoples 'repairs'. But the game has been rock solid for a couple of years, so despite the hack-job, it's probably been like that for +20 years and worked just fine. Can't complain too much.
pasted_image (resized).png

Found the FETs/heatsinks in the bottom of the cabinet. Luckily I had some new IRL540 FETs so I replaced and all is good. Going to do the 0.22uF mod as soon as the part shows up.

#2096 6 months ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

I have to do this mod too since my magnets keep blowing fuses! Do you know which kind of capacitor is needed for this mod? Cylindrical or flat type? How many Volts should it be?

In case you didn't know, the 0.22uF goes from the clock (pin 11) to ground. I saw the mod here: https://www.techdose.com/repairlog/Repairing-a-Data-East-Last-Action-Hero-Magnet-Controller-Board/306/page1.html. Can't vouch for what it does, but I suspect it filters out a glitch or cleans up the clock signal.

Since it's used on a 5V chip, any cap 10V and above is fine (rule of thumb is 2X actual voltage). Since the capacitance is small, it's not uncommon to find caps rated a lot higher in voltage. I found a non-polarized, axial lead, 50V at one of the electronic distributors. I'll likely tack it on the board and secure with a dab of silicone. I know G.P.E is a member here, might want to check out his site.

pasted_image (resized).png

I should add that the IRL540 FETs have a lower 'on' resistance than the P20N10 FETs (0.077 vs. 0.12 ohms) and a lower thermal resistance (1.0 vs. 1.4 C/W) which means the IRL540 parts will run cooler.

#2098 5 months ago
Quoted from freeplay3:

Need an opinion. Decided to put orange titans on the game. Was thinking of trading out the clear star post for blue. I am also doing blue rubber posts and should I go with orange or blue on the flippers.
[quoted image]

I like the blue better but there's a lot of blue down there already, so you might want the contrast of orange.

#2106 5 months ago
Quoted from arolden:

Interesting problem on my LAH. When I got the game, the switch on the main ramp had been moved leftwards (closer to the ramp entry, see image). I moved it back to its original location. However, I realised why the original owner made this modification. The ball moves so fast up the ramp that, after it hits the switch, the diverter sometimes doesn't have enough time to open, and the balls gets sent to the left inlane instead of the right inlane. Anyone have any tips on how to prevent this? Either slow down the ball or speed up the diverter, I guess? Not sure how I would do either. Anyone else had the switch moved on their game? Thanks for any guidance![quoted image]

So just a WAG here, and also assuming that wasn't an eventual factory mod...perhaps a weak TP122 transistor that drives the solenoid. Or on the same thinking, perhaps the resistor or driver transistor driving the base of the TP122 is an issue, limiting the base current which in turns limits the TP122 current.

Boy, I bet the switch was moved a good 6"!

#2109 5 months ago
Quoted from TREX:

Fellow LAH'ers The Upper right VUK coil smoked on me. Not sure if the ring switch was stuck or not, but it ended up blowing the TIP36C (Q4) PNP transistor as well as melting the coil. If possible could someone put up a picture(s) of the wiring of the switch from the underside of the playfield? There is some funky wiring on mine and I wanted to verify with a working machine. A gray wire and purple wire lead up to the hoop switch. The Gray taps from from the White/Violet wire and the purple wire comes from the Green/Blue wire. I attached a picture of the area. Was hoping someone could check their game to verify. According to the switch matrix the VUK is controlled by the white/viloet and green/blue.
Thanks[quoted image]

Here you go... If you want the originals, PM me your e-mail.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

1 month later
#2142 4 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Exactly what happened to my set. Filling is a must, have it from Cliffy himself!
Here‘s how mine looks before filling.[quoted image]

What did you use to fill?

#2148 4 months ago
Quoted from moonraker:

Just got my LAH yesterday after long wait to find one . My ticket is in great shape. Do you guys Mylar over it to protect it? Also I noticed because left scoop cliffy is not perfectly flush they put alittle Mylar so the ball would go in. Thoughts?[quoted image]

Just a FYI: A gent out of Canada sold ticket decals and they looked great. I had the typical ticket wear line from the scoop and the replacement decal was spot on. Can't even tell it's there.

But like others said, yours will probably never wear out if home use.

#2150 4 months ago
Quoted from moonraker:

... Yes I’d like a back up ticket so if anyone knows that pinside If you can give me his info

Here you go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-replacement-ticket

#2151 4 months ago
Quoted from moonraker:

Ok but the power box and game was fit for Europe, so do I need a special plug or have to do something to he power box? Also I have 5 amp slow blows in box it says that on top, leave current fusing? Thanks!...

The manual should be online. Here's a snipit from mine:

pasted_image (resized).png
2 months later
#2208 59 days ago

No post on mine. Wonder if DE intended to put a spot back there at one time. Post is kind of long for that tho.

#2212 58 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Mine looks like embryonjohn's photo. Mine has a screw under the plastic. The screw is not holding down the plastic.

Ditto here, but I don't know what's underneath.

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