(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!

By Matt_Rasmussen

10 years ago


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  • 349 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by BubbaPin
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider iwasthebruce.
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#2268 4 years ago

Hey everybody! I'm new here, I just joined the club last week by picking up LAH as my first pin...ever! Woot!
I had been looking for an older EM, but came across a deal I couldn't pass up!

I first had to take the liberty of setting the custom message, an homage to Mr. S

Over the last week, I've been doing my best do figure out all of the switches and lights and fuses that need to be replaced.
Lucky for me, the majority of the switches seem to be functioning, but I do have a few that stay "high" in diagnostics.

So far, I've replaced the lock and cam cylinder on the coin door. I didn't believe it when I read about tools to bring, but I did indeed need a drill when picking up this pin, the owner had lost the coin door keys...oh well! I also cleaned and waxed the accessible area of the play field, although I intend to do a full strip and shop over the next several weeks...but I can't keep my wife off the machine while we wait for parts!

While I was cleaning the PF, I managed to side swipe and snap the 'N' drop target, so a new set of drop targets was ordered.
Also went ahead and put in for all new fuses, decals, rubbers, and e-mailed Cliffy's earlier today for some scoop protectors and fancy red post sleeves.
Speaking of, does anyone know the best place (US) to order the 1/2" post sleeves from? I found these, but wasn't certain I'm willing to wait on the postage:
https://scandinavianpinball.com/product/3-8-post-sleeve-de-sega-stern-19/
Any suggestions are appreciated!

Once I get the fuses all replaced, I intend to plan and order LEDs and whatever switches are found to be bad...this is a process, huh?

Speaking of switches, the only feature that doesn't seem to function correctly is the M-BALL. I've read a few posts concerning the M-BALL function and seen where a few people have the issue of the M-BALL not counting balls correctly and I wonder if it is a similar fix for my issue. Whenever M-BALL is started, the center left scoop holds the ball that was in play and then...sometimes (so intermittent something) it launches one additional ball into play, sometimes none, and never 2. From what I've read in the manual, I should see at least 2 additional balls launching for M-BALL, putting a total of 3 in play, correct?

Also, I'm hoping someone here can help me out. I know I'm missing the cash box, but I'm not certain if I have all of the parts on the back of the coin door to feed the cash box, can someone take a few pics of the inside of their coin door and cash box? I'd appreciate it greatly!

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#2271 4 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I think Pinball Life has color post sleeves from Perfect Play.

Pinball Life definitely has a ton of stuff...wow! But I only found the 1/2" sleeve posts in black :,(

But Titan has them, thank you both for the references!

#2273 4 years ago

Found a local place to get the VUK ramp and the other 2 wire mold pieces blasted and powder coated...what yellow did y'all use for yours? Did you bring the crane in to have them try and match it?

#2274 4 years ago

Also...forgive me I am flooding this thread and will continue to do so...I have a lamp layout from the manual, but I know it's missing some lights...can anyone point me to a more complete diagram? I know this is, at the very least, missing the VUK ramp light and the light over Arnold on the left ramp.
Although I did find some of those and a few more lights noted as "Lite Cover [Color]" on the Parts Identification page, I still don't see the bulb for the ticket and that makes me think I am missing others.

I also fail to see where, even though it is listed, any #906 Bulbs are located; did they just list that part number generically?

I'd also appreciate any feedback on my color choices, the light blue is for Cool White and light yellow is for Warm White, other colors are self explanatory.
Are the Ripper lights on the apron yellow or red in your machine? Mine are currently yellow, but I noticed they are supposed to be red originally. I know it is all up to taste and preference, just looking for ideas. Thanks!

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1 week later
#2277 4 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

How's the 'ticket' on the playfield, any wear?

Could be worse:

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#2278 4 years ago

Restoration is going well, despite the manual and its grand lack of accurate information...can anyone identify this part? I pulled one bent one out and need to find a replacement..that's a 1/4" nut, that is part of the hardware piece. Total 2" in length:

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#2283 4 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Reason I ask is because that's a sore spot w/respect to wear. There's a gent (in Canada) on Pinside that makes a very nice ticket decal. I got one, looked perfect.

Ah yes, we have ordered a ticket decal from him, just waiting on shipping. You can see where someone already attempted, and poorly at that, to fill the ball trail and repaint. I'll be refilling and sanding the area evenly before applying the new ticket decal

#2287 4 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I happened to have a before/after ticket pic. The guy really did a great job.
Here's a tip that I think was mentioned in the one of the LAH threads somewhere...trim the paper to help alignment.
[quoted image]

Wow, looks great! May I ask if you needed to sand down around the ticket or fill that ball trail? Did the decal create any lip on the play field?

Thanks!

#2290 4 years ago
Quoted from frogman70:

it worked when I picked it up and it does try and boot but know DMD.....

Sounds like its time to check/reseat plugs. After that, I'd bust out my multi-meter and get to checking voltage/continuity.

#2293 4 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Reseating the plugs and checking fuses is where I would start from.

Hm...also look for burnt connectors or components on the boards, I pulled this lovely beast out over the weekend:

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#2313 4 years ago
Quoted from Yasha429:

So I know this has been a common problem with this game. The freakin' tar pit ramp is IMPOSSIBLE to find. I have a lead on someone willing to lend out a NOS tar pit ramp and a friend of a friend who can make reproductions of it. He says he'll make reproductions of it if he can get enough interest. I know personally I need one and I know others out there do as well. Reply to me with interest if you'd be willing to buy a tar pit ramp and maybe we can all finally get over the difficulty it takes to find this part.

I'd take one too, mine has a little crack, but who knows how long it'll be before the thing falls apart!

#2320 4 years ago

Got my wireforms back from powder coating last week...woot! I would've started re-building the play field this past weekend, but I was subject to one of the many pitfalls of being a truck owner...helping a friend move, oh well.

In any case, I've copied y'all's (@thecapn) idea to powder coat the wireforms yellow, I think they'll really pop like this! Also, waaaaaay cheaper than re-chroming them.
Got my new ticket decal, Matchbox truck, Titan rubbers, and what is likely 2 of 3 orders of LEDs (I forsee making a 3rd order by the weekend for a few more lamps). I still need to measure after I get the ramps re-installed...I have a really cool toy idea, but am not sure if I can make it fit...details to come!

I'll also be ordering a new PPB board, it currently works thanks to a previous field repair (burnt connector, affected wires soldered directly to fuses...yuck), but it'll be a relatively cheap investment to upgrade to a Rottendog board...with my luck, I'll find an issue with the MMB also and end up replacing that.

Going to start putting in the second round of LEDs and start to re-install playfield toys/plastics this week, I wonder how far I can get before the weekend?

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#2323 4 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Yea, I remember doing all my wireforms and then being pissed that I didn't do my crane too. All matches now though. I believe all the decals for the crane are still available. I would also put some mylar in the hit spots of the wireform where the VUK shoots it up. Depending on how often you play the chipping will occur.

Yeah, I will probably regret it, but I am on a budget...lol...at least I'm trying to adhere to a budget!
Fortunately, my crane shows almost no wear at all...but I probably will end up pulling it, stripping it, and powder coating to match down the road.
I did get a full decal set from Marco's, had to get drop target decals and it was almost cheaper to get the whole set instead of just the "C-R-A-N-E" decals, so I still have freshy decals for the crane body and everything else when I do strip it.

Thanks for the mylar idea, I do have some little 1' patches I can cut up.

1 week later
#2326 4 years ago

I still have a laundry list of little things to do, but the playfield has been reassembled and he plays fast as sin! Woot!

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#2328 4 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

For a second I thought I was looking at MY game. lol. You will need to adjust your flippers. They are angled too far down. FYI. The inlane plastic to flipper rubber at rest should be a straight line.

Yeah, I thought the left one looked a little derpy, thanks for reassuring my suspicions!
Good to know too, I was gonna adjust it to match the right...now I know

#2330 4 years ago

Hm...has anyone ordered one of these beautiful looking things? I dare say, it is superior to both the "big head" and "big boot" editions...
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/63342

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#2334 4 years ago
Quoted from frogman70:

So I’m having a problem with lower playfield GI lights, any idea of which board or plug to check? I cheap checking fuses but I’m having a hard time following the wires through the Lomé

Check the PPB (Playfield Power Board) its the lower left board in the back box. Also check the Main Power Board, top left in the back box. Look for burn marks on the boards and connectors, then meter for voltage at the connectors.

#2335 4 years ago

Got the flippers fixed...its a learning process, right? Also removed the curling mylar by the "Chicken" scoop. Some of the paint had already come up, before I tugged on it, so I removed the remainder. I have to give credit to the freeze spray, that stuff does wonders! I was able to at least save the border and beyond from the mylar. I plan to print a decal to go in its place. I also applied that beautiful decal from @atariaction, thank you! This decal is top notch and was easy to apply.

Also finished installing the rest of the lamps, 100% LED now! I may still add some more GI, but I'm still toying with ideas.

Does anyone have a spare upper rear playfield plastic? The strip that goes goes across the back above the playfield. PM me if you have one you would be willing to let go of for a reasonable cost
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1 week later
#2339 4 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Picked up a LAH as a project flipper. Man, this pin is loaded with stuff [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like you got a real nice clean playfield, have fun! This machine has been a blast to work on.

2 months later
#2381 4 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

dmd i unplugged the ribbon cables and what not and its slightly better, probably at 95% so still open to suggestions.
My new issue after updating the eprom and soldering a few coils is the crane.
The crane moves on every ball at the start and sometimes parks in the middle of the playfield is this a result of the new code or is something off? thanks in advance

My crane does the same thing, running v1.12.

2 months later
#2433 3 years ago

I made some time this weekend and got some fixes/improvements done on my LAH!

Checkout this sweet OptoBoard made by Davi for Jurassic Park...guess it works for LAH as well!

I also fabricated a little piece of aluminum offset to create an LED fixture for above the CRANE drop targets...adds a lot more illumination to the middle of the play field without blinding the player.

And...finally re-installed the spinner, had to use some JB Weld witchcraft to keep the plate on the wire.
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#2452 3 years ago

Scoot I wanted to post some pictures for you showing the steps of the led strip over the drop targets, couldn't figure out how to attach them in the message, hopefully these will better help explain what I did:

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#2456 3 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I bought new sling plastics from Marco and after a few days they are both broken. I use oversize lexan washers to protect the edges but that did not help. The plastic is very hard and rigid. I put the 27 year old ones back in. They are still bendable although a little yellowish from the old bulbs.

I soaked my plastics (all yellowed) in dawn dish soap and cool water, dried, then used Novus 2 and Novus 1 and they were restored to like-new beauty!

These really don't have to be torqued down too much either, just snug is enough...same goes for just about all of the screws/nuts for the plastics.

3 weeks later
#2502 3 years ago

OK, I can't seem to find this on Marco or Pinball Life so far, anyone else have to buy one of these yet or know the part number?

The poor thing just sheared right in half!

This is the post between the Chicken scoop and the Ripper.

Thanks in advance!

*Edit: Haha, nevermind, guess the part was replaced...found it here unless anyone has a link for an exact match?
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-12-tall-metal-post-with-10-threaded-base-and-6-threaded-top.html

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1 week later
#2509 3 years ago

I would check the screw inside the side of the crane body where it locks the crane to the axle.

May be loose!

1 week later
#2525 3 years ago
Quoted from jordan:

Cables checked.
I found a blown fuse F2 8 A sl-Bl broken and after short search i found the rectifier bad. I changed both .
the Display problem solved . But i have another issue.
After the Data East display i have an open the Door message. It makes sense as i changed the battery with an Nvram and i haven't adjust the game. Or not?
If i close the door the game does nothing . The switch is tested ok.
Also,at start ,the pinball triggers all solenoids in a sequence and stops. Lights are open .
There is no sound and i cannot start a game.
Trying to get into Diagnostics i can only see only every 2 adjustments (00, 02 etc )with no ability to change them pressing the start button.
I am sure that the solution maybe something easy (I hope ) but i have no idea what.

All the coils firing at the startup is indicating a missing ball...its looking for the missing ball.

Check the switches in the ball trough, 6 of em to check.
Also, make sure you have 6 balls installed in the trough!

Hope that helps.

#2529 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

I use the comet flex bulbs. I installed an extra socket for each scoop and was able to get the SMD to fit into the brackets (with some effort) and tied the flex bulb into the bulb above each scoop that lights up during "Find Benedict" mode. The effect can be seen in my LAH restoration finale.

That's a good idea! It'd be cool for the left scoop to tie it into the logic for lit dynamite also.

I'm always looking to add to the light show...been toying with the idea of cutting into the apron to add a couple spotlights like the new Stern TMNT game as well.

#2538 3 years ago
Quoted from jordan:

The Nvram is in the correct order and the game rom is also fine. Recently i burnt a new 27512 CPU ram with the latest version a1.12.
I haven't updated the Display and Sound Roms. Do you believe that they don't communicate properly with each other?
I will order tomorrow the 4 Eproms to check this also.

Yes, I believe that will likely be your issue...someone correct me if I am wrong, but you need to have all the roms on the same version.

1 month later
#2606 3 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Any tips for adjusting the launcher coil. I may be over thinking it but put new sleeve on and it seems like consistently I hit the “r” on launch, someone tell me this is normal and I’m overthinking it

Mine used to always hit the "N" or "E" drop targets consistently... I don't believe there's a way you can set the power in the settings.

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