(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!

By Matt_Rasmussen

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,518 posts
  • 349 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by BubbaPin
  • Topic is favorited by 127 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider clempo.
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#1633 5 years ago

My shaker motor is weak in coil test mode but it seems fine when playing a game. For example, when a pop bumper activates, the shaker responds immediately. What problem could this be?

#1635 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

It is normal as it is only a short test within the coil test.

Why do you say it is a short test? I can keep my hand on the start button and make the test last as long as I want.
Can other pinsiders confirm the same thing happens on their machine?

#1645 5 years ago

The service buttons on my LAH are on the coin door close to the key lock. Is this an original coin door?
My Data East Bullwinkle has the buttons inside the cabinet on the left side of the door and I expected LAH to be the same.

1 week later
#1713 5 years ago

I wonder why the Big Mistake and the Chicken inserts are milky white instead of semi-transparent with triangular lenses like all the other inserts? In particular, compare Big Mistake with Red Eye which is also white. At first I thought they were repairs by a previous owner, but a quick look on the internet confirmed these are original.

2 weeks later
#1756 5 years ago
Quoted from clempo:

I wonder why the Big Mistake and the Chicken inserts are milky white instead of semi-transparent with triangular lenses like all the other inserts? In particular, compare Big Mistake with Red Eye which is also white. At first I thought they were repairs by a previous owner, but a quick look on the internet confirmed these are original.

I've been thinking about this and maybe Big Mistake is not like the other semi-transparent inserts because the inside joke is they intentionally made it different to look like a big mistake. That does not explain the Chicken insert though.

3 months later
#1960 5 years ago

Is there a way to increase the angle of movement of the crane? Right now I have to make the switches protrude a lot to be hit. I want the crane to stop closer to the VUK and closer to the tar pit wall to fix my problem with flying balls. When I adjust the switches shorter, the crane does not reach them. My crane swings perfectly centered between the two switches so I don't think it is a problem with the adjustment under the crane cabin (above the playfield) that every one talks about.

#1965 5 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Don't forget that you can also adjust the distance of your VUK wireform with the two screws that hold it in place. There is room to play with the VUK positioning. Be careful though cause adjusting the wireform can alter how your ball shoots up and may not make it up to the next level correctly.

That's a good suggestion, but I'm afraid it will not be enough.

1 month later
#2039 5 years ago

Can someone tell me if that's normal or what's wrong with my tar pit?
If I hit all C-R-A-N-E targets, shoot the VUK, lock 1 light is now lit, the crane deposits the ball in the tar pit, but as soon as the ball rests on the peg, the machine drops the peg and the ball comes back into play. Another ball is auto-launched and I am now in 2-ball multiball.
I would expect the ball would be physically locked in the tar pit and stay there, another ball would be launched for single ball play.
The rollover switches in the tar pit work in test mode. I also looked at the adjustments and did not see anything applicable.

#2041 5 years ago

Yes, that's it. The top rollover switch in the tar pit was clicking but it would only make contact if the pressure stayed for a second which is much longer than the time it takes the ball to roll over it. I replaced the microswitch and now it works. Thanks.

3 years later
#3244 1 year ago
Quoted from KING-HENRY:

yeah, to clarify, smart missle button works, but is not flashing nor lit while game is on..and ZERO flashers/Controlled GI on playfield/backbox..just general illumination..I need to find out why that fuse is blowing (hence no flashers/cgi) Must be a shorted socket perhaps? Wires and boards look good, but you have to look 10 times becuase it could be right in front of you. I haven't checked the bridge rectifier reading yet..but something tells me it's a dead short somewhere..

Flashers are not regular lamps, they go together with coils.

1 month later
#3356 1 year ago
Quoted from Youpapin:

General question. Would a failing capacitor (the big blue boy in the bottom left of the cabinet) cause the shaker motor to run super slow and intermittently? It will turn on occasionally but its super sluggish and really sounds like its struggling.
Thanks!
Bryan

Is this during gameplay because that's normal in test mode.

#3359 1 year ago

Inspect the shaker board on the side of the cabinet for unsoldered diodes or resistor.

#3361 1 year ago
Quoted from Youpapin:

You beautiful people and all your knowledge. This is my first pinball machine and there’s A LOT I don’t know to look for. This community is amazing at pointing people in the right direction. Thank you so much, there was a resistor that unsoldered itself on my shaker motor board. Going to fix it this morning. Thank you all again!

No merit, the same thing happened to me. I found the unsoldered resistor quickly but then wasted two weeks trying to figure out why it was so weak in test mode... to find out it was by design.

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