(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!


By Matt_Rasmussen

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,263 posts
  • 253 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Davi
  • Topic is favorited by 89 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider caker137.
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#3 6 years ago

Definitely a fun game. First one I ever bought, and I still have it. Love the magnets.

#37 6 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

when you unscrew it does the whole crane come off? Or do you have to mess with the wiring?
Does it need to be readjusted when you put it back on?

The crane will slide off of the shaft, and will still be tethered to wires that go below the play field. You can unplug it from below if you want to remove it entirely, but may not be necessary depending on what you are trying to get to. You will have to readjust it when reinstalling, but that's not too awful; maybe 10 minutes of tinkering with the Allen screw and running the test mode.

#51 6 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

I agree about the MB, maybe someone could edit the ROM like Jurassic Park, they're changing that up with that one too.

Way ahead of you

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lah-firmware-mod-coming-soon

Just trying to get it released now. Will share more when I can.

#52 6 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

is this the adjustment screw to take the crane off?

Yup

6 months later
#228 5 years ago

The crane will only go over to the vuk when it is supposed to catch the ball. Anytime it is over there or on its way over there the ball should not come out of the vuk until the crane is ready to catch it. I don't know of any time it will move just for effect.

Exceptions are:
1. In super crane, if the crane times out, the crane will move away from the vuk, and vuk shots will go into the habitrail.
2. In multiball, if you hit the jackpot shot, the crane will move to the vuk, but if you drain down to one ball, it will continue to the vuk and then leave, and the ball will not linger in the vuk if you shoot there.

If your crane is missing the ball in any other situation, it probably needs to be adjusted, or you have a switch problem.

#233 5 years ago
Quoted from akm:

I played a few games last night, and in "Go to the Movies" the crane definitely moves just for effect. It basically moves once when you start the mode (when the ball is still in the scoop), just like if you just turned on your game (where the crane moves back and forth once)

Hmm, my game does not exercise the crane at power up or at movies start. What version are you running? I'm running the latest.

1 week later
#251 5 years ago

The flippers can work mostly fine without the eos switches IF the flipper board has been modified a-la the service bulletin. However without eos switches, even with this mod you will suffer from the falling flipper problem you describe when the ripper hits the flipper. Wire those eos switches back up and see how that works for you.

#256 5 years ago

Here are the eos switches with wiring:

20140530_104003.jpg

5 months later
#415 4 years ago

In case you guys didn't see the TWO YEAR OLD thread I just brought back from the dead, my LAH firmware mod is released now. You can go download the patch file right now!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lah-firmware-mod-coming-soon/

Here is the site I put together to host all the information and files for the mod:
https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

#425 4 years ago
Quoted from EricR:

Nice, hopefully someone with a ROM burner will help out some of the rest of us that don't for a small donation towards their equipment maintenance.

For those of you wondering how to get this ROM on your system, I encourage you to consider getting a ROM burner. They are not as expensive as you might think; buying 2 or 3 Roms from a service would basically pay for your own burner. Maybe go in with a buddy or two and share the initial cost?

Here is a recent thread where they've been discussing gearing up for a burning:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-gecko-abilityrom-burning#post-2051126

#428 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

burned the rom, installed no problem. New rom of course resets settings, so open the coinbox to at least turn it back to freeplay.

Quite an update going from 1.10 to 1.13 .......

Cool! I hope you enjoy it. You're the first to post about installing the mod, hopefully not the last

2 months later
#488 4 years ago

Well as you guys might have guessed, I love LAH (I did the 1.13 mod firmware). In my opinion it is one of, if not THE best data east machines. It seems like this thread might need a bump, so I thought I'd plug my recent product for some of you that might have missed the thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-gi-smoother-for-data-east

This is a PCB / Kit that helps to calm the "seizure multiball" effect when you have LEDs installed in your GI. Very similar to herg's GI OCD, but his does not support Data East; this one does

Official product website:

https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro/

I'm not a big company, just a guy who loves pinball, so these are produced in limited supply; I currently have a small handful of extra kits on hand from the first run. Paypal purchase available at the website, or shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

7 months later
#546 4 years ago

Mine are 090-5020-30

#549 4 years ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Okay, cool. Do think you flipper coils are to powerful or do they feel just right?

Feels good to me.

1 month later
#591 3 years ago
Quoted from ozzyzz:

Flippers works well but they perhaps works even better if I replace them? or should I just replace the 090-5020-30 coils?

If the coils work, don't bother replacing them. You'll see no improvement. If they are nice and strong it's probably just fine to leave everyhting alone. If you decide to rebuild them, when I rebuild I change the coil sleeves, linkage arms, and possible the nylon bushings. Those are the only things that wear out.

2 months later
#631 3 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

ccasionally if the ball makes it up the ramp without a lot of speed it will get stuck

Mine had this exact issue too. I ended up taking the wire form loose and tweaking the metal a little bit to force the plastic part of the ramp down slightly at the junction. Problem solved. I don't remenber 100% but I think I bent the support that attaches by the eyeball targets to put a counter-clockwise twist into the wireform as it passes over the chicken scoop.

#635 3 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

Caker, I took a look and am not sure I understand what you mean.

Yeah, its kinda hard to describe. The wireform (that rests into that plastic ramp) bolts to the playfield in two places: near the right inlane, and near the eyeball targets. If you bend the wire that attaches near the eyeballs so that from the front of the game it bends slightly to the left, this will cause the wireform to press down on the plastic ramp up at the far end of the wireform, which lowers it slightly to increase the slope in the plastic ramp exit. Another way to describe it is that the wireform metal wire that bolts on top of the eyeball plastics starts as a vertical line |, but you bend it to resemble a slight angle \

Do the bending with the wireform off the machine, and only bend slightly.

1 year later
#856 2 years ago

They both have the data east feel, and reuse a lot of mechanical assemblies as well as sound effects. I don't think it would be awful to have them both, but if I was space limited I'd probably look for some more diversity. They are both good games.

3 weeks later
#909 2 years ago
Quoted from jester523:

I'm not sure what I did wrong when rebuilding. I reversed the EOS switch wires

Is it possible you have the left eos switch connected to the wires for the right eos switch and vice versa?

10 months later
#1119 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisRAD:

Anyone know the changes in the .112 code over the .106?

Details here

https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

1 week later
#1126 1 year ago

It looks like there should be a plastic bushing in that spot. The frame of the assembly (which runs flat across the playfield under the assembly) has a bend off the end that extends behind the danger bar switch and clips into that bushing. I suspect the end of that metal bracket is broken off of you assembly. See pictures.

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3 months later
#1418 1 year ago

The LED display is the best option for DE. It does look great for this title, and if you tend to like the look of the LCD, try the pinball life glare guard. Just turn the LED brightness up to 9, install the glare guard and the contrast is amazing! The glare guard hides the display entirely and only the lit pixels shine through. It also helps to "mix" the rgb subpixels so it smooths a bit too. And of course it keeps the glare off the glass. I liked it so much I installed the same combination in my Tron which had been LCD for years.

For DE you will have to install the glare guard from the inside (but facing the outside). I also found that I had to secure the clear window to the panel with tape since the colordmd does not press against it.

#1419 1 year ago

So I discovered some interesting oddities recently while working on LAH:

1. If you do really badly on a ball (like an insta drain, and another insta drain after ball saved) the game will shift the next lit mode to "extra ball" to help you out on your next ball.
2. If you enable "buy-in" in the adjustments and then choose to continue at the end of the game, the game will clear you score to 0 but retain all of your mode progress, lock states, etc.
3. If you have a fractional credit on the game (like 1/3 credits), at the beginning of ball two, the game will "steal" this quarter away and clear out the fractional credit.

Any other games exhibit these behaviors?

The more you know.....

1 month later
#1570 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

taking the speaker grills out, blasting them w/a spray can...and call it a day.

Mine came with R&B grills. I flipped them upside down (already black on the back) for a few years. Then when I got the correct ticket grills, I still had the R&B's, which now hang on my wall for decoration.

What is the deal with all the LAH speaker assemblies getting swapped?

2 weeks later
#1639 1 year ago
Quoted from smailskid:

could you post some pics of the LED with the glare guard?

Standard disclaimer applies about pictures not being a good way to judge the display, but how about these?

FB_IMG_1537924648307 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1537924656511 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1537924663176 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1537924669722 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1693 1 year ago
Quoted from Dirtbike:

You need those updated ROMs to be able to have the color DMD work, correct?

The colordmd Rom was designed with the cpu v1.12 or unofficial cpu v1.13, along with display v1.06. It has been tested with these and will work perfectly. There is a very good chance that older versions will work fine too. If you don't care if you have the latest game version, just get the colordmd and try it. Worst thing that can happen is some screens might not color correctly. If you notice that, you can order the updated roms then.

That being said there are some nice things fixed in the 1.12, as well as the unnoficial 1.13 you might want otherwise.

6 months later
#2059 6 months ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

anyone knows why?

Maybe the Left EOS switch is wired to the right flipper and vice versa.

1 week later
#2083 6 months ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

.is this something frequent

Not anything I've experienced. Maybe the switch was too close and relaxed into a continuously touching position, locking the pop bumper on. This might also have blown your transistor. Check your switch and see if it's still working in test mode (desolder one side if the stuck coil first for testing).

4 months later
#2203 60 days ago
Quoted from atrainn:

epetitive or is there a setting I need to change?

Check the gray ribbon cable between the cpu board and the sound board. Might just need to be reseated or it could have a bad connection.

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