Definitely a fun game. First one I ever bought, and I still have it. Love the magnets.

The crane will slide off of the shaft, and will still be tethered to wires that go below the play field. You can unplug it from below if you want to remove it entirely, but may not be necessary depending on what you are trying to get to. You will have to readjust it when reinstalling, but that's not too awful; maybe 10 minutes of tinkering with the Allen screw and running the test mode.

Way ahead of you

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lah-firmware-mod-coming-soon

Just trying to get it released now. Will share more when I can.

Yup

The crane will only go over to the vuk when it is supposed to catch the ball. Anytime it is over there or on its way over there the ball should not come out of the vuk until the crane is ready to catch it. I don't know of any time it will move just for effect.

Exceptions are:
1. In super crane, if the crane times out, the crane will move away from the vuk, and vuk shots will go into the habitrail.
2. In multiball, if you hit the jackpot shot, the crane will move to the vuk, but if you drain down to one ball, it will continue to the vuk and then leave, and the ball will not linger in the vuk if you shoot there.

If your crane is missing the ball in any other situation, it probably needs to be adjusted, or you have a switch problem.

Hmm, my game does not exercise the crane at power up or at movies start. What version are you running? I'm running the latest.

The flippers can work mostly fine without the eos switches IF the flipper board has been modified a-la the service bulletin. However without eos switches, even with this mod you will suffer from the falling flipper problem you describe when the ripper hits the flipper. Wire those eos switches back up and see how that works for you.

Here are the eos switches with wiring:

20140530_104003.jpg

In case you guys didn't see the TWO YEAR OLD thread I just brought back from the dead, my LAH firmware mod is released now. You can go download the patch file right now!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lah-firmware-mod-coming-soon/

Here is the site I put together to host all the information and files for the mod:
https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

For those of you wondering how to get this ROM on your system, I encourage you to consider getting a ROM burner. They are not as expensive as you might think; buying 2 or 3 Roms from a service would basically pay for your own burner. Maybe go in with a buddy or two and share the initial cost?

Here is a recent thread where they've been discussing gearing up for a burning:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-gecko-abilityrom-burning#post-2051126

Cool! I hope you enjoy it. You're the first to post about installing the mod, hopefully not the last

Well as you guys might have guessed, I love LAH (I did the 1.13 mod firmware). In my opinion it is one of, if not THE best data east machines. It seems like this thread might need a bump, so I thought I'd plug my recent product for some of you that might have missed the thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-gi-smoother-for-data-east

This is a PCB / Kit that helps to calm the "seizure multiball" effect when you have LEDs installed in your GI. Very similar to herg's GI OCD, but his does not support Data East; this one does

Official product website:

https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro/

I'm not a big company, just a guy who loves pinball, so these are produced in limited supply; I currently have a small handful of extra kits on hand from the first run. Paypal purchase available at the website, or shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

Mine are 090-5020-30

Feels good to me.

If the coils work, don't bother replacing them. You'll see no improvement. If they are nice and strong it's probably just fine to leave everyhting alone. If you decide to rebuild them, when I rebuild I change the coil sleeves, linkage arms, and possible the nylon bushings. Those are the only things that wear out.

Mine had this exact issue too. I ended up taking the wire form loose and tweaking the metal a little bit to force the plastic part of the ramp down slightly at the junction. Problem solved. I don't remenber 100% but I think I bent the support that attaches by the eyeball targets to put a counter-clockwise twist into the wireform as it passes over the chicken scoop.

Yeah, its kinda hard to describe. The wireform (that rests into that plastic ramp) bolts to the playfield in two places: near the right inlane, and near the eyeball targets. If you bend the wire that attaches near the eyeballs so that from the front of the game it bends slightly to the left, this will cause the wireform to press down on the plastic ramp up at the far end of the wireform, which lowers it slightly to increase the slope in the plastic ramp exit. Another way to describe it is that the wireform metal wire that bolts on top of the eyeball plastics starts as a vertical line |, but you bend it to resemble a slight angle \

Do the bending with the wireform off the machine, and only bend slightly.

They both have the data east feel, and reuse a lot of mechanical assemblies as well as sound effects. I don't think it would be awful to have them both, but if I was space limited I'd probably look for some more diversity. They are both good games.

Is it possible you have the left eos switch connected to the wires for the right eos switch and vice versa?

Details here

https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

It looks like there should be a plastic bushing in that spot. The frame of the assembly (which runs flat across the playfield under the assembly) has a bend off the end that extends behind the danger bar switch and clips into that bushing. I suspect the end of that metal bracket is broken off of you assembly. See pictures.

20180325_142531 (resized).jpg

20180325_143737 (resized).jpg

20180325_143612 (resized).jpg

The LED display is the best option for DE. It does look great for this title, and if you tend to like the look of the LCD, try the pinball life glare guard. Just turn the LED brightness up to 9, install the glare guard and the contrast is amazing! The glare guard hides the display entirely and only the lit pixels shine through. It also helps to "mix" the rgb subpixels so it smooths a bit too. And of course it keeps the glare off the glass. I liked it so much I installed the same combination in my Tron which had been LCD for years.

For DE you will have to install the glare guard from the inside (but facing the outside). I also found that I had to secure the clear window to the panel with tape since the colordmd does not press against it.

So I discovered some interesting oddities recently while working on LAH:

1. If you do really badly on a ball (like an insta drain, and another insta drain after ball saved) the game will shift the next lit mode to "extra ball" to help you out on your next ball.
2. If you enable "buy-in" in the adjustments and then choose to continue at the end of the game, the game will clear you score to 0 but retain all of your mode progress, lock states, etc.
3. If you have a fractional credit on the game (like 1/3 credits), at the beginning of ball two, the game will "steal" this quarter away and clear out the fractional credit.

Any other games exhibit these behaviors?

The more you know.....

Mine came with R&B grills. I flipped them upside down (already black on the back) for a few years. Then when I got the correct ticket grills, I still had the R&B's, which now hang on my wall for decoration.

What is the deal with all the LAH speaker assemblies getting swapped?

Standard disclaimer applies about pictures not being a good way to judge the display, but how about these?

FB_IMG_1537924648307 (resized).jpg

FB_IMG_1537924656511 (resized).jpg

FB_IMG_1537924663176 (resized).jpg

FB_IMG_1537924669722 (resized).jpg

The colordmd Rom was designed with the cpu v1.12 or unofficial cpu v1.13, along with display v1.06. It has been tested with these and will work perfectly. There is a very good chance that older versions will work fine too. If you don't care if you have the latest game version, just get the colordmd and try it. Worst thing that can happen is some screens might not color correctly. If you notice that, you can order the updated roms then.

That being said there are some nice things fixed in the 1.12, as well as the unnoficial 1.13 you might want otherwise.

Maybe the Left EOS switch is wired to the right flipper and vice versa.

Not anything I've experienced. Maybe the switch was too close and relaxed into a continuously touching position, locking the pop bumper on. This might also have blown your transistor. Check your switch and see if it's still working in test mode (desolder one side if the stuck coil first for testing).

Check the gray ribbon cable between the cpu board and the sound board. Might just need to be reseated or it could have a bad connection.

If you shoot the ramp or you fall into the chicken scoop from the pops you get the Frank animation and the Frank award goes up.

Craig

The 1.04 is the display rom version. The 1.13 is the new cpu code. You did everything' right.

Here is a complete list of what's different:

https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

I think that's normal. If you touch the wires together you are bypassing the diode. Touch the wires through a diode and you may trigger the single switch signal as you expect.

My topper is fully assembled, but I did my best. There is some overlap with the red and blue lenses going under the gray center piece; I did not include that overlap in my measurements. Measurements are probably good to +/- 5mm or so.

I couldn't get the internal measurement, but with some geometry and right triangles I think you can figure that one out.

Craig
Untitled (resized).png

EDIT: typo, the 170 should say 150.

Also the ? Is about 95mm

Height ("?" In photo) llooks like 95mm.

Correction to photo, the lens depth marked 170mm should be have 150mm. Typo

The middle piece is a non metallic silver/gray, more gray than silver.

I think 170 is pretty tall. Your render makes the lenses look like tall rectangles; in reality the have a quite square ish cross section.

The 115mm was the angled length of the front face on the center gray piece. If you want true vertical height of the colored lenses, i got around 95mm.