Can someone please confirm the dimensions of the MPD topper emblem (see attached). I'm told it is a 3.5" circle.

Additionally, has anyone already redesigned it that would let me have a copy of their file for a restoration (helping out a friend)?

It would also be great if someone who has a nice quality original could post a good close-up photo.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

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I will, thanks.

Done. Thank you everyone for your responses.

So, in helping a friend with a restoration, he really needed the emblem for the topper which is apparently impossible to find. So, I was able to design one in the likeness of the original (not exact, but I believe it conveys everything it should), and wanted to gauge interested form the LAH community.

I would offer these for $20 each including postage to continental US (I will ship outside US, but will have to calculate shipping on case-by-case basis).

Construction would be as follows:
1) Printed on 6 color photo quality inkjet printer using OEM inks
2) Printed on ultra premium high gloss OEM photo paper
3) Laminated with 3 mil clear gloss vinyl
4) Full adhesive backing
5) Precision circle cut to 3.5" diameter

Anyway, if I can get 5 or more interested then I would definitely be willing to produce and sell them, so chime in and let me know your thoughts.
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Here is an actual print to give a more realistic idea of what they will look like.

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I need some help from the LAH community please. In designing my topper decal, it has been brought to my attention that there are actually 2 screws/rivets that go through the decal which mounts to a disk which is fastened to the rectangular plate. I’m trying to understand the exact setup but photos are scarce. So, I have a few questions in order to account for making the holes in my decals.

- Are screws or rivets used? From the good pics I have seen they look like rivets but not the pop kind. Basically trying to figure out if they are easily removable for decal install or if they are permenant and the decal needs to fit over them.
- if screws, what is the hole diameter that the screw goes through?
- if rivets, what is the head diameter of the rivet?
- are the screws/rivets placed at the exact vertical center of the decal?
- what is the horizontal distance in mm between the exact centers of the two screws/rivets?
- I saw a pic w/o the decal or disk mounted and the surface is flat with the two holes. Personally, I would choose to mound the new decal on the disc then use some adhesive to secure the disk to the plate so that riven/screw heads are covering the decal. Is this practical/preferred? I guess I could offer two version of the decal (one w/ holes so that it fits over the screws/rivets and one w/o for those who want to get rid of the screws/rivets) but was trying to simplify.

Any help is greatly appreciated as I’m very close to finalizing my design and offering them for sale.

Those are good shots. I’m noticing the background of the rhino is really orangish instead of pure yellow, so I will adjust for that. FYI, I am going to have a few options which will include a replacement dust that will mount without rivet heads covering any of the graphic. More to come soon.

All I need at this point is for someone to provide me the hole diameter for the rivets in the rectangular plate, and then I will have all the measurements I need. Since the rivets are not meant to be removed, will need to be someone who is already missing the emblem disk.

Yea, really need the hole diameter for sure before I can finalize the design on my alternative snap in 3D printed plate, but I don't expect someone to drill out there rivets to give it to me. I know there are plenty out there who are missing the piece with the holes exposed.

Would you mind giving me one more shot? Heads-on closeup (in focus) with good lighting, so that I can grab the best representation of that orange color.

Great, one more question. Are the 4 graphics sitting on the blue background supposed to be a paler yellow than the eagle or have they faded?

Here is updated graphic with new colors.

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Thanks, I like your color better, so here is update.

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FYI, idea is not to match perfectly, but to create a representation that closely represents the original, including the coloring. I am very close to finishing both the decal and the mounting disk (for those who are missing it). Hopefully by the weekend, I can have some pics from the one who originally requested that I design a replica emblem, and I will detail the options to everyone.

As a precursor to that, I will most likely offer as follows:

1) Decal designed to be applied on top of the current one (ie on top of the plastic disk). This decal will have a gloss vinyl laminate, and holes cut out to fit over existing rivets.

2) Laminated decal as above with no holes cut to be used however you will.

3) An assembly designed to fully replace the existing rivets, disk, and decal. This will be a 3D printed disk with built in fasteners that will go through the existing holes on the rectangle bracket and be secured from behind. The decal will be on the front of the disk (laminated as above), but the design removes the rivet heads that cover part of the graphic. To use this, you will have to remove the current plastic and drill out the 2 rivets.

Also, I just sent you an email. Anyway you could get me one final measurement of the rivet head diameter on the front of the emblem?

Okay, a few small tweaks based upon some errors I saw. Review/comments appreciated before I finalize the graphic design.

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Thanks. Thickness (depth) of rectangle bracket that the emblem mounts to?

Does anyone have a spare one of these in good condition for sale?

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Everyone, I need somebody's help, please. Since these plastics are absolute gold and nobody has responded that they have an extra one to sell, I'm working on a custom made version of one that I would be willing to sell if/when I execute.

What I need at this point are some exact measurements so that I can size the plastic. Can someone please provide the exact length and width in mm per the position of the green lines in my graphic (I have the shape and I've colored appropriately, but just don't know dimensions)?

I make my plastics out of Lexan (quite the pain, honestly, with all the cutting and shaping), which is slightly thicker but much more durable than stock plastics. I adhere the printed graphic to it so it is not painted, but the final product comes out quite nice, is extremely durable, and does not overtly stand out from the other plastics. Up to this point, I've had to adhere the graphic to the top (photo quality print with OEM photo inks & paper, then laminated with gloss vinyl), but I have some new adhesive sheets that I want to test that may allow me to adhere from the bottom side without distorting the graphics (still need to test). For reference, here is an example of two of the plastics I have created and sold for the Getaway (both plastics above the two target banks are my custom ones): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/70#post-3415047

To set expectations, at this point I'm thinking I would charge $20 including postage to US. I obviously need to get one created with lots of pics before anyone commits, but thought I would throw it out there.
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Cool, I PM’d you regarding a couple of items.

I know I seem needy, but now I need another favor from someone. I need a nice close-up, square in frame, well lit, in focus, hi-resolution photo of the Dekker sticker on the center spinner. Apparently this too is a hard find and worn out on many LAH pins. I'm going to create a reproduction and offer it for sale also. I also need to know the width and height (in mm) of the decal.

Please PM me and I'll provide my email address for you to send the photo.

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Thank you to everyone who sent me dimensions, pics, scans, etc. on this. I now believe I have what I need to get started working on this. I have a very busy next couple of days, but will keep everyone posted on progress and availability.

I bet you would be 100% correct given the location of everyone (I've done a lot of work for him in the past on a variety of pins)! He does great work, and I'm happy to help him out.

FYI, I'm an OBU grad - 1990.

Yeah, I was thinking $5 for mine and they will be gloss vinyl laminated to handle the abuse. I just need a nice pic and dimensions.

And here is my final graphic colorized, sized, holes positioned, etc. Looks awesome printed. Now just need to work on the plastic.

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Oh, I know, and that one is my specialty!!!

So, looks like my new plastic methodology is going to work great, and will allow me to adhere the graphic on the bottom instead of the top to look more like an original plastic.

So here is how it will be starting from the top layer working to the bottom:
1) Lexan sheet (plastic)
2) Adhesive sheet
3) Printed graphic
4) Clear gloss vinyl (to protect the paper graphic)

I have someone testing my graphic for size and fit tomorrow, and once that is good I will produce a prototype. FYI, we are discovering that the holes can be different lengths apart depending upon the pin, so I will be creating the left hole as a slot instead of just a circle to accommodate for this.

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My topper emblem design is finally finished. I still need to send it off to the person whom I originally designed for to test fit, and then I will offer for sale.

As I mentioned, I will offer in 3 version including one with no holes, one with holes to fit over existing rivets, and a complete assembly to replace the current plastic and rivets.

Here is an example of the emblem itself, along with the mounting assembly with the emblem attached to it. As you can see, you simply push the two threaded rods through the existing holes (after you remove rivets) in the topper plate, and secure from back using washers and wingnuts.

Laminated emblem
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Front of mount plate
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Back of mount plate
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Mount plate with emblem installed
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I just shipped the prototype off today to the end user. Once he confirms perfect fit I will make available for purchase (or if I’m off then I’ll have to make adjustments and try again.) Hopefully will have feedback sometime late this weekend.

Good news, LAH owners (at least I think so). Due to the generosity of a former LAH owner, a spinner with both decals and a broken plastic are being sent my way. This will allow me to reproduce both spinner decals in high quality and color match to make available to the LAH community. While the plastic is broken, it will also help me better match color, shape, and size. Probably going to be a week or so before I get everything in and am able to do the artwork, but hopefully worth the wait for those of you who are missing the spinner decals (or have beat up ones) and are missing and/or have a broken plastic above it.

Not really sure why I care that much about these parts as I don't even own this game, but you all seem really nice here in the LAH group and have been very helpful to me. Hopefully, I can use whatever skill I have to say thanks, and to repay the favor in my own way by making a few of your games just a little better.

So, here is my first prototype of the "chicken plastic" as I'm calling it.

- Overall it works. As I mentioned before, I use Lexan for the plastic, a high-tach adhesive layer, then a premium matte paper and inks, then on the bottom a protective layer of clear gloss vinyl
- These take a lot of effort and time to make, so not going to get into it all other than to say I was rushing and made a few errors - but then again, it is a prototype.
- The plastic I used already had a cut in it that I did not see, and I got a little fast an loose with the pneumatic sander. I will clean this up and the shape will be even better
- I free drilled the holes, but had to account for spacing that ranges between 45 - 48 mm centers since this gap is not consistent across all games. As you can see, free-handing this doesn't create a clean screw slot. I just finished designed a 3D printed jig that I'm going to try that should give me much cleaner and better shaped screw slots.

Anyway, getting much closer to having something for those either missing this piece or who have a broken one. Here are two pics with one having some backlighting.

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And here is the perfected final version. My only question is if I need to make the blue a deeper color or not since I don't have a live one to compare to. Also, is the plastic actually lit from underneath? If not, I can use a different thicker glossier paper for the graphic.

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Yeah, I saw that. Just didn't know if there was any underlighting or not.

Here is my final version of the plastic. I color matched it to the playfield blue on my Getaway which seems very close to the blue on LAH from the pics I've seen.

Also, I'm getting very close to having my 3 items ready: topper decal w/ or w/o mount assembly, spinner decals front & back, and this plastic. All I'm waiting for is some verification on fit from those I've sent to in order to test. I want to release them all together for those who may want to purchase more than one item at the same time, and I'm guessing I should be ready to present by late this week.

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I'm getting into LAH, because I'm helping a Pinside friend with a restoration. I've done custom graphics for him for several pins, and he trusts my work. When I do something like that and I think others would benefit, then I typically get a feeler in the game specific thread. If others are interested, then I work to bring my designs to the group as affordably as I can. If I were to guess, I've probably done graphics and or 3D models for 15-20 different pins up to this point, but you are correct in that the Getaway is by far the one that I've designed for the most since I am part of that community.

BTW, I was using a matte paper but since the plastic doesn't have light transfer through it, I switched to a high gloss paper (thicker, and produces a more vibrant print). On any custom plastic that requires light transfer, I find that the matte paper performs comparatively to original silkscreened plastics.

As far as durability, I've been making custom decals for over two years and have literally sold hundreds of them made using the process I outline. I've not had one single failure, no fading, nor any complaints whatsoever with any of my designs, and I use them on my own pin. What got me doing this originally was after buying two relatively expensive sets of targets for my Getaway that failed in less than a month each, I thought I could do better . . . so I did. I've probably sold a dozen Getaway target sets which take a beating being an integral part of that game (there are 15 of them). I've had my targets on my pin for 2 years now, and they still look and perform like new. I can't speak to what any of my stuff will look like over 5-10-20 years, but Epson states that photos printed with the inks and paper I use are good for 200 years (I have no idea how they make that claim).

Here is a mockup of my spinner decals that are close to being final. I'm sure several people could use a set of these based upon what I've seen.

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Quick update on my mods: Topper Emblem, Spinner Plastic, and Spinner Decals. I've been working closely with a LAH owner, and I think that I'm almost there now. As you can imaging, it takes lots of time mailing things, getting feedback, making changes, mailing updated items again, etc. At this point I think I'm good on sizes and shapes with just some minor tweaks, but now we are working on better colors. I'm hoping to have all of the colors finalized by the end of the week, and when I do I will post everything together in this thread and make the items available for purchase.

Thanks, MB. I'll be posting everything very shortly (maybe today or tomorrow) with pricing.

I'm finally ready to offer my custom replacement items to the group. Remember, these are all hand made reproductions, and will not be exact matches to the original. However, they will all be close in both design and color, and look great on any LAH pin that needs replacements for these parts.

Here are the items and pricing, which INCLUDES shipping/postage to US (I will ship outside of US, but will need to quote shipping based upon order and destination).

- Chicken Plastic | $20
- Spinner Decal Set (includes front & back) | $10
- Topper Decal | $15
- Topper Decal + Mounting Plate | $30

If you are interested in ordering any of the items, please PM me and we will work out payment details and estimated delivery. FYI, there are no discounts for ordering multiple items, but I will ship everything together if ordering more than one piece at a time.

Now for the details. To begin with, I use quality materials (OEM inks, OEM ultra gloss photo paper, etc.), and have my decals and custom plastics in dozens of machines. From my own personal experience and from what those who buy from me have said, my items are well-made, stand the test of time, and are often better than original and other third party decals they have bought before. All of my decals are coated with a high quality clear gloss vinyl that gives them extra durability and a nice finish.

Chicken Plastic | Hand made from durable Lexan acrylic with graphic printed on ultra gloss photo paper adhered from the bottom side of the plastic, and then the bottom of the graphic coated with clear gloss vinyl for durability. Please note the photo I posted is of the earliest version. The one I will be making is actually darker in color and more closely resembles the original.
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Spinner Decals | Printed using materials above, coated with clear gloss vinyl, and a full high-tack backing, with rounded corner cuts
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Topper Decal | Printed using materials above, coated with clear gloss vinyl, full high-tack backing, and holes punched to fit over rivets on top of existing plastic. This version is designed to be installed over the existing decal on top of the clear plastic circle. Note that the holes are a little larger than the rivets to account for variance in rivet position. Therefore, you will want to paint or otherwise color the rivets and surrounding area before applying the new decal so that you do not see any part of the old decal through the pre-punched holes.
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Topper Decal with Mounting Plate | Same as above, but without any holes in the graphic, and include a custom-made 3D printed mounting plate and hardware. This version allows those who are missing the current plastic from their topper or those who want to drill out the current rivets and have a cleaner full graphic on the topper, to easily mount the graphic in a way that looks original to the machine. Since it utilizes posts through the existing rivet holes that are screwed on from behind, the graphic on the front does not have to be altered with holes for the rivets. When installing, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the wingnuts as you may snap the threaded post off the plate. Simply hand tighten to a light snug. If you feel you need the mounting to be more permanent, simply put a small dab of superglue or other adhesive on the back of the wingnut where it touches the threaded post.
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Well, now I have to ask. What is the tar pit?

Unfortunately, the tar pit is beyond my ability and the technology I have access to.

Regarding the blue octagonal dome (550-5055-05), looks like nobody is carrying it anymore. Not really a 3D print object (no way to achieve that transparency and the facets would be difficult). Seems silly because I found clear, red, green domes at Marco's and other sites (was LAH the only pin ever to use blue?). You may just have to go to the rounded style: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-10, or possibly clear and paint it with some kind of blue tinted clearcoat (seems like a lot of effort and expense).

Since I don't have the machine, I don't know much about it. What is the purpose of that, and why did they not theme it (is it just clear on everyone's machine)?

I could certainly made a decal for it, but have a few concerns/needs:

1) Really odd shape, so I would need an exact trace including screw holes or for someone to actually let me borrow their plastic for decal development.
2) Since it is so close to another plastic, color matching is a concern. Again, I don't own the machine, so it would be best if I actually had one of the plastics with film on it and plenty of blue so I can do my best to match color & style.
3) How many would be interested in actually buying the decal. It takes effort to design and create this stuff, so I don't like doing it if I can't get at least 5-10 people interested.

First thought was blue background with continuation of film graphic, and maybe an explosion above the light.

Lookin' good!

Here is a rough draft of my decal for the clear plastic. Graphics are low resolution since I don't have any plastics to scan/photo from, but thought I would see what people thought.

ClearPlastic.jpg

I'm just a hobbyist, so I'm limited on how I would produce these. Just to go through my process again (those who have purchased other decals from me can comment on the quality), here is how I make them:

1) I print via a 6 color photo quality inkjet printer using OEM inks onto OEM papers (in this case it would be a matte finish paper in order to better allow for light to come through the plastic)
2) I then cover the bottom with 3mm high quality adhesive gloss vinyl
3) I cover the top of the decal in this case (since it will be designed to adhere face-up to the bottom side of the plastic) with high tack double-sided adhesive sheet
4) I then cut as carefully as I can with razor knife, straight edge, and scissors where required

The end-user would need to perform the final installation
1) Remove the plastic from the game.
2) Practice positioning the decal on the underside of the plastic, as you will only have one chance to get it right - adhesive is extremely sticky.
3) Peel back the adhesive covering on the decal, position correctly, and apply to underside of plastic in an unrolling fashion while applying pressure to area that is touching plastic and to avoid any bubbling.
4) Using a razor knife (e.g. Xacto) you will need to cut out the portion of the decal covering the screw hole. Normally, I would do this in advance, but I'm concerned that QC and application of the decal will not always be exact.

If I am able to acquire higher resolution images so I can print in a quality that is acceptable to me, my thought is I would sell them for around $15 which would include postage to US destinations (also willing to ship outside of US, but will have to quote postage on a case-by-case basis).

At this point, in order to match coloring and create high resolution graphics, I need someone to volunteer to actually send me some select plastics from the game. JSBebop2071 mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he would be willing to do this, so he will have first right of refusal. However, others may PM me if they are willing in case he decides he would rather not. In exchange for sending me the 3 or 4 plastics I require, I will send them back at not cost and I will also provide a free decal. I realize that many would prefer not to take a risk by shipping their plastics to a complete stranger, but all I can do is give you my word and you can research everything I've done to contribute to the pinball community here on Pinside to judge my character.

FYI, I've had a few people email me and I'm still working on the best option regarding obtaining scans and actual plastics. My one request of everyone is that if you end up emailing me based upon our PM discussions, please include your Pinside name, as I think I'm getting confused with who is who. Sorry, if I've PM'd someone a confusing response related to an email that was sent as it was probably intended for someone else.

For those of you who don't know, in order to post photos to PMs you must be a donor to Pinside. While I prefer to keep everything here, if you are not a donor then that is when I will provide me email if you need to send pics to me, but I would still prefer to converse via PM instead of email.

This is what I think my final design will most likely look like. Still working with some LAH owners to get scans and real plastics in my hands, but I think we are getting close. Were there any other ideas on what anyone thought the plastic should look like? Not that I'm going to listen to everyone, but if I'm overlooking anything obvious that the community would prefer then I'm open to making changes.

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Can't wait to see it at TPF!

Making slow progress on my clear plastic decal. Finally received a the high quality scan I was needed, and with a lot of touchup here is my final design. Now just waiting on plastics to arrive in the mail for color matching and test fitting. Getting very close now, and thanks for everyone's patience.

ClearPlastic.jpg

Okay LAH owners, the time has finally come for the clear plastic decal. I'm all about full-disclosure and informing people about my creations before they purchase them, so please review all of the details below. A special thanks to all of you who helped me with this project by providing input, outlines, scans, and even sending me sample plastics to use for color matching and shaping.

DECAL OVERVIEW:

- I used the best color matching capabilities and tools I possess to "match" the OEM plastics. What I will tell you is that I've come close, but not exact. Bottom line is that I'm using completely different print techniques and materials than the original plastics, so it is impossible to create an exact match. However, from the photo you will see that I'm not that far off (obviously different lighting reacts differently to color as well). This photo was taken in a room with no artificial lighting on, just indirect sunlight from a few windows.
- I tested a few different paper stocks, and what I decided produced the best results is OEM ultra gloss photo paper. The colors are a little more vibrant and it produces a better overall sheen. The paper will also still let light through when the lamp below the plastic is illuminated.
- To create the decal, I print on OEM gloss photo paper with a 6 color inkjet photo printer using OEM inks, I then coat the bottom (white side) with 3 mil adhesive gloss vinyl for protection and durability, and then cover the top with a high tack adhesive film. The film is not as glossy as I wish, but it is the best alternative I have found in my few years of making these types of things. Also, as you can see, the adhesive does create a slightly uneven tone. However, under lighting, the viewing angle, and the distance you will be from the decal this effect is greatly reduced if not eliminated altogether when the plastic is installed.
- As you can see, the actual plastic I'm working with is quite damage. It has a big chip out of it, and it is extremely scratched which impacts the overall application of the decal. However, it does give a fairly accurate impression of what the final product will look like when you apply the decal to the plastic.
- Once applied you will need to cut out the hole from the bottom side of the plastic yourself. I did this to allow for variable hole positions and the fact that not everyone will be able to apply their decal exactly the same every time. It is very simple with a hobby or razor knife to cut out the circle.

APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS:

1) Remove the plastic from your pin, and thoroughly clean both sides using your choice of cleaner. Be sure to rid the plastic of all grease, smudges, etc. and once cleaned do your best to only handle it from the edges until decal is applied.
2) You will be applying the decal to the bottom side of the plastic, so be sure that everything you do positions the plastic in the correct orientation. I find that placing it face down on a solid surface works best for me.
3) Before applying the decal test fit it on the plastic and make sure you are comfortable with how to position it. Personally, I like to align the decal first with the side that has the two screw slots then make sure the alignment is correct on the other axis.
4) Remove the adhesive protection layer from the decal, and only hold it from the edges - do not touch the adhesive side.
5) The adhesive is high tack and you can easily damage the decal if you stick it then attempt to unstick it due to poor positioning, so take your time and do it right the first time. When applying, have some sort of plastic edge or squeegee available (even a stiff credit card will do). It is best to apply the decal in a rolling/partial fashion while applying pressure to the areas of the decal where it makes contact with the plastic. Slowly progress in applying the decal applying pressure by wiping with your plastic edge until the entire decal is making contact.
6) Once applied, use your fingers to apply as much pressure as possible over the entire decal to ensure best adhesion.
7) Apply extra pressure to the decal where it is covering the hole in order to create an outline of the circle. Use your hobby/razor knife to then cut out the circle from the bottom side of the plastic.
8) If your particular decal has any overhang as a result of a little misalignment during application or possibly your plastic is slightly differently shaped than my test piece, then you can use a hobby/razor knife to trim the overhang of the decal if you decide it obvious enough or bothers you (typically won't hurt to just leave it if 1mm or so in areas as you won't notice in once the plastic is in place).
9) Install plastic back into pin & enjoy.

ALTERNATIVE VERSION:

If preferred, I am happy to make a version that adheres to the top of the plastic. In this instance, then adhesive would be on the bottom of the decal and the gloss vinyl laminate on top. This will provider a glossier look to the decal, but will not appear to be as consistent with the other plastics with the graphics on top versus applied in reverse from underneath.

HOW TO BUY:

Okay, hopefully I have detailed everything in a comprehensive manner that provides all the information you need before making the decision to purchase one of these decals or not. As you can tell, I've put significant effort into creating the decal along with the complexity, time, and materials it takes to produce them (each one is hand made). As a result, I've decided to offer them for $15 each or two for $25 (includes postage to US locations - will ship outside of US but will need to quote additional cost for postage once address is provided). All decals are made to order (I do not pre-produce them), and I imagine I'll have several respondents initially. I have a busy week, and TPF is coming up this weekend, so I ask that you give me at least a week from today to produce orders (I may very well be able to get some done sooner than a week, but just want to set expectations). I will only make decals for orders once I receive payment which will be via PayPal.

So, if you would like to purchase a decal, please PM me and I will detail payment process (i.e. provide PayPal details and also have you provide your name and mailing address). I don't expect that I've met everyone's standards or expectations (after all, these are not professionally silkscreened plastics), but hopefully my solution is good enough to enhance LAH in a way that many will appreciate and enjoy.
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As a point of clarification, I am only offering a decal to use with your existing clear plastic piece. I am not actually providing a replacement plastic piece.

Very nice! Still trying to decide if I’m coming Friday night or Saturday morning (working around my son’s b-day weekend plans). Either way, defininately going to play a game or two.

Not familiar with it. Can you point me to some pics? Also, are you saying it is a standard decal with holes poked through after it is applied? Finally, I’ve seen a post recently (don’t remember where) that some guy was making speaker decals. His alreadybhad holes which confused me how one insures they all line up.

Here is what I was thinking of: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-pinball-club/page/19#post-4309651

I am willing to take a look at creating something. However, for starters I need some close-up pics of what they should look like and would also need some dimensions.

One of the best looking pins at TPF. Played great, and was causing all kinds of buzz from people each time I went by it. Well done!

Looks right at home. Thanks for posting the pic.

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro for my Jurassic Park but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. PM'd maker, and he said that he just sold the last one and now has to wait for new group of buyers before his next run. Told me it could take up to 3 or 4 months.

So, my plea to all LAH owners is if you ever thought about buying one of these then now is the time! Help me get mine faster by signing up on the waiting list.

Selfish motives - of course, but you'll benefit also. Get rid of all the clicking during GI changes and also adjust dimming/flashing to help avoid the seizure inducing flashes that DE games can have with LEDs installed.

Learn about it here: https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro

Sign up on the waiting list here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfnci_UqqFLH8AF7CiGq_aPceyLlusw0XluQEeJnGR-PyJ-qQ/viewform

I would go with complimentary colors to the dominant art in the area for best visual appeal (i.e. I choose orange).

If anyone else is interested in any of the items, please PM me for pricing and ordering info.

I'm designing a clone of the OEM topper for a customer who does not have one, and I'm needing dimensions. Would one of you fine LAH owners be willing to provide the following information regarding the topper?

Editing my post because I found a good photo. Here are the measurements I need:

- Center Piece
- Width (left to right)
- Height (from floor to center of top piece)
- Depth (front to back) at base excluding flange
- Depth (front to back) at top

- Left & Right Lenses (I assume these are mirrors of one another)
- Width (left to right) at base excluding mounting flange
- Width (left to right) at top
- Height (from floor to center of top piece) excluding flange
- Depth (front to back) at base excluding flange
- Depth (front to back) at top excluding flange

Pinside_forum_4737539_1 (resized).jpg

You are awesome, thank you. I’ll follow up if I have anymore questions, and if the project goes through I will share my results.

BTW, I’m not attempting to create an exact replica, just something very similar.

Okay, the one measurement I need is the height of the side lenses (red & blue piece). Since your topper is assembled, any way you could just eyeball it for me and give me your best guess? Are you showing the height of the center piece to be 115mm or is that the measurement of the sloped front wall?

Also, really hard to tell but is the center piece white, gray, or silver?

Thanks for the response. Actually, I took 170mm as the height because it made the proportions look right and the depth is about 150mm. Here is my current rendering.

pasted_image (resized).png

I mistyped - on the center piece I have at 120mm tall & the lenses are 115mm tall. My profile is trapezoidal given the measurements as I interpreted them.
pasted_image (resized).png

If we can just focus on the lenses as the center piece is easily built around them. Measurements excluding any of the flanges (i.e. just the basic shape without extensions or mounts) as I understand them:

Capture (resized).JPG

Are these close according to what you observed, or am I off on something?

Thanks. Here is the final model.
pasted_image (resized).png

I have no idea, as I can't seem to locate it on their website. BTW, the owner approached me and asked if I could design one and 3D print for him since the game he was buying is missing the topper (it has the wiring and lighting). I did spend about 10 minutes looking for one before I told him I would do it, but could have easily overlooked other options.

I've been mulling things over, and I've decided to not offer my version of the topper beyond the owner who had me design it for him (I've scrubbed my previous posts of any references to me selling these). It was never my intention to replicate a piece that had just been announced by someone else, and I would have happily referred my customer to that version if I would have seen it. Just to let everyone know, pinball mods are my hobby and not my job/source of revenue. I only design and offer mods either for my personal games, or when a repeat or referral customer asks me to do so. I'm sure Ramp-O-Matic has some investment in developing and producing this topper, so I wouldn't want to be unfair to him by taking away any of his potential customers.

On the other hand, I have been producing the topper decal for over four years now along with a 3D printed solution to mount it to the OEM topper. Again, the impetus for me designing and selling these was a specific request from an LAH owner who was unable to find any other source. Therefore, I will continue to sell these pieces. If you do purchase the Ramp-O-Matic LAH topper or want to restore your original, I'm always happy to sell you the center decal and other pieces if needed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in/page/39#post-4828263

I took your comments as being informative, not critical. I overlooked the announcement (I don't have a LAH nor follow this thread) so when someone asked if I could design a replacement, I made some assumptions and proceeded to help them. Once I found out, the buyer and I were already committed, so if either of us backed out someone would be impacted financially. So, I'll just view this as a one-off project and lesson learned for next time.