LAH is my first pin!! I am new to the hobby and just picked up this beautiful machine last week. I feel like I really lucked-out because LAH is gaining popularity as more people realize its a sleeper! The machine is in pretty good shape overall and plays well. As a watchmaker I have experience with complicated mechanical things but have little experience with electrical diagnostics. I have started exploring the diagnostic and adjustment menus in depth and here are all the problems I have found with the machine thus far:

-8 dead lamps - What is the preferred source for lamps/bulbs?

-3 bad coils - Ramp diverter, knocker and GI relay. The ramp diverter and knocker seem dead and failed the coil tests in the diagnostic menu. The GI relay coil might also be bad; the GI lamps by the flippers are out and nothing happened during the coil test.

-2 potential bad switches- Trough #7 right, which is apparently notorious for causing ball search after multiball. My machine has this issue and the switch might need to be replaced or adjusted, according to the forums. Middle scoop right, which may or may not be bad. It failed the switch test but seems to work (sometimes) in play.

-Missing the post w/rubber above the left outlane. This is causing lots of left outlane drains. Whats a good source for posts and similar hardware?

-Attract mode music cuts off with an audible "click" shortly after powering on the machine. Menu item is set to "on" for Attract mode.

-Hum / buzz from speakers. You had mentioned earlier that capacitors might be going bad. Great Plains has capacitor kits for Stern/Bally, Williams, and Gottlieb but I did not see one for Data East. Any suggestions?

Also, I am very nervous to raise the playfield (even though I probably shouldn't be.) I have not seen any videos online about raising a Data East playfield. Will i be able to raise it to full vertical? Does it lock into place and will there be stops or clicks to let me know when it is locked in place? I have been reading horror stories about dropping the playfield into the cabinet.

The game plays great even with all the above stuff. Id just like to get it as close to perfect as possible. I went ahead and splurged on the alternate translite, I will share a pic as soon as i get it!

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Mine hesitates when starting multiball as well, but I considered it normal and never thought about it. Until now!

I just received the alternate translite and was curious about the image quality. The image has a reddish hue overall, and appears to have digital artifacts or pixelation. For example, take a look at the shadow in Arnold's bicep. If you have one, please compare and let me know if yours has the same traits. I need to know if I am being too picky, it was not cheap. reddish hue overall2016-07-05_10.32.36_(resized).jpgartifacts bicep shadowartifacts cheek

The translite looks good installed on the game. I don't notice the digital artifacts/pixelation from playing position so I am happy. There are more available on the Pinside market if anyone else needs one.

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A ball gets stuck on the ramp behind the crane almost every single game. I think the gate switch might be a little stiff, combined with a dirty ramp might be causing the issue. Anyone else experienced this?

I might have just fried my LAH!
This morning I was attempting to test my ramp diverter coil, which has never worked. When I first got my machine, a knowledgeable friend showed me a test where he "jumped" the coil and was able to determine that the coil could fire. Today I tried to re-create that test and must have done something wrong.
I clipped a test wire to the positive tab on the coil, and touched the other side to the lockdown bar frame. I saw sparks. Since that happened a bunch of other coils are now non-functional:
Diverter (always been non-op)
All 3 pops
Both slings
And I think the scoops are out now too.

I admit that I am a novice pin-tech and am happy to learn from my mistakes. Anyone have any idea what I did to my game?
Thanks!

That's correct, that is exactly what I did. What I was trying to test was that the coil could physically function. It was a test a friend had once showed me (I clearly did it wrong) that he said was a good starting point for diagnosing a problem with a coil. He showed that the coil could fire when he connected a test wire, I clearly forgot where he connected it.
I will check all the fuses, thanks.

Yes, I know about the diagnostics menu and coil test. After that failed, we went directly to the coil and thats when he jumped it to demonstrate that it indeed can work. I was just trying to jump it like he did and failed miserably.

Thanks, the fuse had blown and a new fuse fixed the dead coils. I will not make that mistake again and really appreciate your help!
Now the original problem remains, my diverter does not work. Whats the best way to diagnose this problem?

Thank you, I have a DMM.
I dont think its the fuse, I just replaced the fuse that the diverter uses after I blew it up a few posts above. All the other coils that share that fuse now function normally.
I will follow your instructions this evening after work and report back!

Thats a great idea! If i dont have it fixed by then ill bring it down.