What should the MM be set on? Thanks.

Looks nice

I’m a big fan of the red/yellow look.

Not totally done yet but I love the flippers

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Rebuilt the pop bumpers tonight with PaulRiccardi . Yellow bases and body, red skirts and original tops. I’m in love.

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Hello Everyone,

I'm checking to see if there is enough interest to run another Data East opto board batch for 2023.

Details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-

Thanks.

So aside from the phantom drains I am getting (Something to do with the spinner causing a short) I cannot for the life of me score the Second Cousin Frank's shot. I have hit it now 3 times. Every time it prompts me to do the ramps, then shoot the chicken scoop. The LED lights up for the scoop and everything. It just doesn't register for some reason. Does anyone else have this problem?

Mine works all the time. You have to hit the ramps and the scoop without hitting any other switches.

This doesn't give me the warm fuzzies but it does help narrow it down. I just went and did it manually and it didn't register. But the chicken switch does when I press it multiple times... Thanks Mike.

Spinner causing a short, phantom drains, switch not registering. Sounds to me like you have a switch matrix issue that you need to sort through. If the spinner is causing a short fix that. Shorts in the switch matrix can cause all kinds of weird behaviors.

I really like this. Just installed Dark Blue and Yellow Rubbers but I need to find those protectors they look great. Have an email out to Led4pin as they have none in stock. Hopefully I can order

Can someone scroll up and help me with my no flashers/mpu controlled lighting that’s out? It’s blowing the main fuse above the big blue cap (rectifier 1 or 2). Must be a dead short within the lamps. But it could also be something on the driver board. But don’t really know where to start on this issue.

Led4Pin doesn't have them and said try Freddys. I can read German and cant seem to be able to fudge my way through ordering some. Any leads where I could get Convolux?

I fumbled around too…click on the British flag and you should be good. I haven’t ordered from Freddy’s, but have almost pulled the trigger once or twice.

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Freddy‘s is a good shop. Have bought there a lot, including Convolux for swvwral machines. Feel free to DM me if you need help translating or something.

ah ok....Ill search for that flag

Thank you....Ill see how I go now

that flag is well hidden...I found it

did you have trouble with the screws being to short? I though of this before then saw on the website they have also brought that up. How think are they?

How THICK are they sorry

Has anyone on here achieved the 1.7 billion to take the top score spot on their machine with 3 balls? Just wondering haha.

came kinda close at 1.3

A new repair thread outside of the club thread is always best.

But I would start with diode testing the Bridge rectifier that is near the blown fuse.

I'm designing a clone of the OEM topper for a customer who does not have one, and I'm needing dimensions. Would one of you fine LAH owners be willing to provide the following information regarding the topper?

Editing my post because I found a good photo. Here are the measurements I need:

- Center Piece
- Width (left to right)
- Height (from floor to center of top piece)
- Depth (front to back) at base excluding flange
- Depth (front to back) at top

- Left & Right Lenses (I assume these are mirrors of one another)
- Width (left to right) at base excluding mounting flange
- Width (left to right) at top
- Height (from floor to center of top piece) excluding flange
- Depth (front to back) at base excluding flange
- Depth (front to back) at top excluding flange

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My topper is fully assembled, but I did my best. There is some overlap with the red and blue lenses going under the gray center piece; I did not include that overlap in my measurements. Measurements are probably good to +/- 5mm or so.

I couldn't get the internal measurement, but with some geometry and right triangles I think you can figure that one out.

Craig
Untitled (resized).png

EDIT: typo, the 170 should say 150.

Also the ? Is about 95mm

You are awesome, thank you. I’ll follow up if I have anymore questions, and if the project goes through I will share my results.

BTW, I’m not attempting to create an exact replica, just something very similar.

Okay, the one measurement I need is the height of the side lenses (red & blue piece). Since your topper is assembled, any way you could just eyeball it for me and give me your best guess? Are you showing the height of the center piece to be 115mm or is that the measurement of the sloped front wall?

Also, really hard to tell but is the center piece white, gray, or silver?

Height ("?" In photo) llooks like 95mm.

Correction to photo, the lens depth marked 170mm should be have 150mm. Typo

The middle piece is a non metallic silver/gray, more gray than silver.

Thanks for the response. Actually, I took 170mm as the height because it made the proportions look right and the depth is about 150mm. Here is my current rendering.

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I think 170 is pretty tall. Your render makes the lenses look like tall rectangles; in reality the have a quite square ish cross section.

I mistyped - on the center piece I have at 120mm tall & the lenses are 115mm tall. My profile is trapezoidal given the measurements as I interpreted them.
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If we can just focus on the lenses as the center piece is easily built around them. Measurements excluding any of the flanges (i.e. just the basic shape without extensions or mounts) as I understand them:

Capture (resized).JPG

Are these close according to what you observed, or am I off on something?

The 115mm was the angled length of the front face on the center gray piece. If you want true vertical height of the colored lenses, i got around 95mm.

Thanks. Here is the final model.
pasted_image (resized).png

Doesn't Ramp-o-Matic already offer these?

I have no idea, as I can't seem to locate it on their website. BTW, the owner approached me and asked if I could design one and 3D print for him since the game he was buying is missing the topper (it has the wiring and lighting). I did spend about 10 minutes looking for one before I told him I would do it, but could have easily overlooked other options.

On Ramp-O-Matic’s Facebook it was mentioned that topper will be exclusively sold via Marco’s. Ramp-O-Matic’s ramps are listed on Marco’s site, but no topper yet. I would guess that marcospecialties is still sourcing the insignia decal. Eta unknown. Cost unknown?

I think he announced it here as well. About 2 pages back, with a photo of the prototype. No center decal though.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in/page/66#post-7364526

I've been mulling things over, and I've decided to not offer my version of the topper beyond the owner who had me design it for him (I've scrubbed my previous posts of any references to me selling these). It was never my intention to replicate a piece that had just been announced by someone else, and I would have happily referred my customer to that version if I would have seen it. Just to let everyone know, pinball mods are my hobby and not my job/source of revenue. I only design and offer mods either for my personal games, or when a repeat or referral customer asks me to do so. I'm sure Ramp-O-Matic has some investment in developing and producing this topper, so I wouldn't want to be unfair to him by taking away any of his potential customers.

On the other hand, I have been producing the topper decal for over four years now along with a 3D printed solution to mount it to the OEM topper. Again, the impetus for me designing and selling these was a specific request from an LAH owner who was unable to find any other source. Therefore, I will continue to sell these pieces. If you do purchase the Ramp-O-Matic LAH topper or want to restore your original, I'm always happy to sell you the center decal and other pieces if needed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in/page/39#post-4828263

To clear up any confusion on the toppers...the original is vacuum formed, as are the ones I am making. I am using 3/16" plastic because the draw is so deep, it adds rigidity to the top of the lens, where the plastic stretches the most. New plastic is also much less brittle than 30 year old plastic, so you should not have to worry about them being as fragile as OEM pieces.

Marco is providing the decal plaque (it is screwed into the front of the topper, as original) for me to install on the finished toppers. I am currently still making the toppers and will be shipping them to Marco when complete.

Marco ordered a large quantity of them, so it has been taking me a while to get them all done. The large quantity means these are going to be pretty affordable. I know everyone would like to have them yesterday, but patience will pay off, I promise. And yes, these are a Marco exclusive, I will not be selling any of them directly.

I did not mean my comments in any negative way. I was simply wondering why you would go through all these efforts. Really appreciate all your work. I do recall the decals from you and when you started them. I believe I was one of the guys that even provided you with some pics of an original (mine was pretty crappy though) and I applaud the effort that went into making them look great.
This is a great community here, and everyone is contributing in one way or another. I got into this hobby about 6 om years ago with LAH, and would have left the hobby if it wasn't for this forum. I recall almost wanting to smash my Ripley, because I couldn't figure out why it kept on resetting, till I found the solution on pinside from another member (stupid coil setting that caused the reset). I love this forum, and you guys who are producing parts for these old machines are all my heros. Big shout out to everyone!

I took your comments as being informative, not critical. I overlooked the announcement (I don't have a LAH nor follow this thread) so when someone asked if I could design a replacement, I made some assumptions and proceeded to help them. Once I found out, the buyer and I were already committed, so if either of us backed out someone would be impacted financially. So, I'll just view this as a one-off project and lesson learned for next time.

I have 2 translite seconds available to anyone that shoots me a msg, minor print defects.
If ur flipping ur lah, trading up, etc you won't find a better way to make your game more appealing for this price.
$55 each includes shipping.

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PM send regarding translite....

Hey. I made a forum post about my “ripper” kickback not firing. If anyone has advise please let me know. The post is below. Thank you

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lah-ripper-coil-not-firing#post-7438681

The ripper should be one of the transistors on the driver board. It has had issues similar to the launcher gun on lw3. Q5 i think is the one to check.

Yes I have checked the transistors and all of it seems fine but unsure. I posted photos of what I think I found but I have never felt with testing them. Been lucky and have just dealt with broken ones I had to replace.

I breezed thru ur thread. Can you confirm the switch is good and diode still on it?

Yes the switch in front of the kicker works and diode on the switch and coil are good. The coil doesn’t fire during the test either. I did just find the correct way to test the transistor on the ppb board and found that Q1 is not getting a reading so i don’t know if that means I should just replace the transistor with a new one or if I should check something else that is cause if the no read on the transistor.

Chrck the legs of the stuff connected upstream of q1

I have a strange question. My flippers feel stiff and almost too powerful. The solenoids the correct ones. It is difficult to make the side captive ball on the left side and the scoop shot on the right. Is this normal for this machine? Also are data east flippers like this? It plays completely different then my Junk Yard flippers.