(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!

By Matt_Rasmussen

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,506 posts
  • 349 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by Chisel
  • Topic is favorited by 126 Pinsiders

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There are 3,506 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 71.
#2401 3 years ago

Having issues when the crane drops the ball most of the time the pin to stop the ball isn't high enough and ball rolls over the pin or the shaker makes the ball roll over the pin. The coil for the pin is connected to the ramp so don't see any adjustment. Any help???
Thank you

#2402 3 years ago
Quoted from t2:

Having issues when the crane drops the ball most of the time the pin to stop the ball isn't high enough and ball rolls over the pin or the shaker makes the ball roll over the pin. The coil for the pin is connected to the ramp so don't see any adjustment. Any help???
Thank you

I have the same issue. Checked my crane and everything. I have been told my pin is too steep and I should make it more flat. Sounds weird to me.
There is no way to adjust the pin on the ramp. I have been looking into raising the entire ramp assembly, but no luck so far. You cannot lower the crane, since it would not clear the VUK wire on the right side.
If you come up with a solution, let me know.

1 week later
#2403 3 years ago

Finally got my hands on this game! It's once I've wanted since I got into pinball a short time ago.
Game works and is in nice shape! Just waiting on a parts order to finish shopping it out....It has some suspect flipper mech setups.

My only issue is the crane.... Bought it knowing there was some problems with it fetching up.

Previous owner(s) have had the gearbox apart already. I opened it up to check it out, but honestly dont even know if its all there, or what was done exactly at this point. All the gears are present, but there were spacers and whatnot floating around. Cleaned things up a bit, and powered it without the crane connected to the drive shaft and it spun freely.

Hooked the crane up and it moves from home(left) to right and stops short but then needs some assistance getting back to the left. Looks like the linkage binds. Not sure if its salvageable, and I'll be honest I don't know enough enough motors/gearboxes.

Question for you guys - Has anyone tried sourcing and retrofitting another motor/gear assembly? I'm seeing 12vdc/12rpm motors on various sites, amazon, ebay, even banggood. Has anyone tired something like this before? I'm honestly ok with it not being "the right" assembly, so long as I get the crane functioning.

#2405 3 years ago

Just removed my ColorDMD LED from LAH and replaced it with a ColorDMD LCD. I like it so much better.

20200507_221507 (resized).jpg20200507_221507 (resized).jpg
#2406 3 years ago

I'm looking for the emblem that goes in the center of the topper on the grey plastic piece, I can't seem to find one at the usual suppliers, anyone got any leads?
Thanks,
John

#2407 3 years ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

I'm looking for the emblem that goes in the center of the topper on the grey plastic piece, I can't seem to find one at the usual suppliers, anyone got any leads?
Thanks,
John

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in/page/39#post-4828263

#2408 3 years ago

Made my own gear. Crane is back in action

9214FEF9-5EFC-47CC-8760-07C7BE99074E (resized).jpeg9214FEF9-5EFC-47CC-8760-07C7BE99074E (resized).jpeg
#2409 3 years ago

Wow, thanks for that. I tried searching for it but wasn't coming up with anything. This will be perfect, thanks again.

John

1 week later
#2410 3 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Just removed my ColorDMD LED from LAH and replaced it with a ColorDMD LCD. I like it so much better.
[quoted image]

So, why doesn't colordmd show an LCD version on their website? Also, just joined the club.

20200517_145412 (resized).jpg20200517_145412 (resized).jpg20200517_184512 (resized).jpg20200517_184512 (resized).jpg
#2411 3 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

So, why doesn't colordmd show an LCD version on their website? Also, just joined the club.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You can put in an lcd but on data East machines it requires some modding to the speaker box. Where as with the led it’s just a matter of swapping. ColorDMD website does have firmware for both in the downloads section.

#2412 3 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

So, why doesn't colordmd show an LCD version on their website? Also, just joined the club.
[quoted image][quoted image]

ColorDMD does not recommend cutting your speaker panel to install the LCD screen (hence they don't offer the option). Once you move forward with the LCD installation, you can't go back. For me it is worth the trade off. I personally prefer the LCD look to the LED look.

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#2413 3 years ago

My only caution with the LCD is that if you sell the game, you can't pull the ColorDMD and put the original DMD back in since you've hacked the shit out of the speaker panel. Just food for thought.

#2414 3 years ago

Thank you for the explanation. I was about to purchase the lcd, but it has got me thinking if I should.

#2417 3 years ago
Quoted from Juicerc51:

I could use it.

Sorry gone already

#2418 3 years ago

I have a coin style battery installed but think I have the wrong size installed. Have a 2025 but the holder is larger than the battery. Would anyone know the correct size? Thanks

#2419 3 years ago

Hopefully will be joining this club tonight. Awaiting drop off tonight. Looked it over in person the other day and game looks great. Flippers seemed like they didnt want to send the ball very far. Not weak imo but just not quite enough umph. No experience with data east so not sure.

#2420 3 years ago
Quoted from BubbaPin:

Hopefully will be joining this club tonight. Awaiting drop off tonight. Looked it over in person the other day and game looks great. Flippers seemed like they didnt want to send the ball very far. Not weak imo but just not quite enough umph. No experience with data east so not sure.

Congrats! You better look over the flippers since it should send your ball easily up the ramp. If it doesn't there is definitely something wrong. On occasion, I will send my ball so fast up the ramp it will scoot by the diverter before it reacts.

#2421 3 years ago
Quoted from BubbaPin:

Hopefully will be joining this club tonight. Awaiting drop off tonight. Looked it over in person the other day and game looks great. Flippers seemed like they didnt want to send the ball very far. Not weak imo but just not quite enough umph. No experience with data east so not sure.

Another Texan joins the club! First thing you will want to do is check those fuse clips. They will more than likely be crap. Then you will want to bypass the EOS switches on your flippers. Verify the solder joints on the center scoop switches cause they tend to get crappy. When lifting your PF on this game be careful of the tar pit on the left side. These plastics get damaged due to carelessness.

#2422 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Another Texan joins the club! First thing you will want to do is check those fuse clips. They will more than likely be crap. Then you will want to bypass the EOS switches on your flippers. Verify the solder joints on the center scoop switches cause they tend to get crappy. When lifting your PF on this game be careful of the tar pit on the left side. These plastics get damaged due to carelessness.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but how exactly do you bypass the eos switches. I rebuilt my flippers a while back and occasional the right flipper will just drop when the flipper is pressed. maybe it's an adjustment, but I haven't been able to get it working well. wondering if bypassing the eos would help that.

#2423 3 years ago

There are a couple of ways to go about doing this, but basically the two EOS wires need to always be touching. This can be performed with soldering or simply taping the wires together. Once you bypass the EOS your flipper issues will be gone. Been like this for years on my game with no issues. Taken to TPF multiple years with hundreds of plays over a single weekend and no issues.

#2424 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

There are a couple of ways to go about doing this, but basically the two EOS wires need to always be touching. This can be performed with soldering or simply taping the wires together. Once you bypass the EOS your flipper issues will be gone. Been like this for years on my game with no issues. Taken to TPF multiple years with hundreds of plays over a single weekend and no issues.

Wouldn't that burn the coils out?

#2425 3 years ago

I'll be posting another post tonight when I'm off work of all the initial issues I've found so far. One is the trough switch issue with when multiple ends and all balls drain sometimes it acts like a ball is stuck. I assuming just adjust the switch. Another is the wire form that shoots the ball up. Sometimes it doesn't go to the other wire form, or cant make the crane in time or shoots it into the pop bumpers.

#2426 3 years ago
Quoted from BubbaPin:

Wouldn't that burn the coils out?

Not on DE games like this. The flipper control board has got you covered. Like I stated for peace of mind. I have had mine at TPF getting played non stop for a full weekend multiple years. No issues. Only issue I had was when I gave the EOS switches a shot at being legit. Went right back to bypassing them and the thing shoots like a beast.

#2427 3 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Not on DE games like this. The flipper control board has got you covered. Like I stated for peace of mind. I have had mine at TPF getting played non stop for a full weekend multiple years. No issues. Only issue I had was when I gave the EOS switches a shot at being legit. Went right back to bypassing them and the thing shoots like a beast.

Awesome so they must be two tab solenoids then correct? Haven't looked yet. Awesome info thanks capn

#2429 3 years ago

So then what purpose do the eos switches have in this then?

#2430 3 years ago

Unrelated. But this is real hot and looks toasty. Is this a problem on the main board

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#2431 3 years ago
Quoted from BubbaPin:

So then what purpose do the eos switches have in this then?

They re-energize the flippers when the Ripper kicks the ball back at them. If there is no EOS, then the flipper will just drop, but you can then let go and re-flip.

#2432 3 years ago
Quoted from BubbaPin:

Unrelated. But this is real hot and looks toasty. Is this a problem on the main board
[quoted image]

Just dirty. Get out some alcohol and paper towels, Q-tips, or a toothbrush and clean it.

Data East called it the MPU board.

#2433 3 years ago

I made some time this weekend and got some fixes/improvements done on my LAH!

Checkout this sweet OptoBoard made by Davi for Jurassic Park...guess it works for LAH as well!

I also fabricated a little piece of aluminum offset to create an LED fixture for above the CRANE drop targets...adds a lot more illumination to the middle of the play field without blinding the player.

And...finally re-installed the spinner, had to use some JB Weld witchcraft to keep the plate on the wire.
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#2434 3 years ago

I played this game on The Pinball Arcade for iOS, so here’s a quick experience! Unfortunately the screen is cropped, but it is some nice gameplay.

#2435 3 years ago

Picked this game up this weekend. Am I missing a left outline post?

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#2436 3 years ago
Quoted from BenMielke:

Picked this game up this weekend. Am I missing a left outline post?
[quoted image]

Should look like this: so yes appears so

D53AF08E-360B-4D17-A772-9941B45C9985 (resized).jpegD53AF08E-360B-4D17-A772-9941B45C9985 (resized).jpeg
#2437 3 years ago
Quoted from BenMielke:

Picked this game up this weekend. Am I missing a left outline post?
[quoted image]

Wow that looks like it was never added. Was the playfield replaced at some point? Should be a wood screw mini post there.

#2438 3 years ago

I added mine. If I was to do it again I would predrill the hole ever so slightly.

#2439 3 years ago

I also added the mini post.

#2440 3 years ago

Decided to add some custom mirror blades today. Combined Cointaker mirror blades with Tilt game blades. Took all day but I love the results. I think this game just might be a keeper.

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#2441 3 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Decided to add some custom mirror blades today. Combined Cointaker mirror blades with Tilt game blades. Took all day but I love the results. I think this game just might be a keeper.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice work.

#2442 3 years ago

Looks great! I need a pair of those, I‘m afraid.

#2443 3 years ago

Okay so ordered rubbers, fuse clips, new circle switches.

Ordered a ocdled board and standard 2 smd frosted from comet. Was told if I got the ocd board that they needed to be standard not non ghosting, is this correct?

Do I need any new board for the gi if I got standard 2 and frosted? I am told they make a gi smoother board but is it needed like the ocd board. And I'm assuming gi on this game is like every other game and doesn't need non ghosting, is this correct?

#2444 3 years ago

Do not use nonghosting is correct.

#2445 3 years ago
Quoted from BenMielke:

Picked this game up this weekend. Am I missing a left outline post?
[quoted image]

Not necessarily "missing"

It's purpose is to make the left drain easier on the player. I would start with bringing the adjustable post to the left to it's lowest position before adding that mini post.

I do not use a post there and I personally prefer it.

#2446 3 years ago

Wondering if anyone can help. Really looking for a blue ramp. Mine is broken and I cannot finish restoring my machine, let alone play it, without one.

I also need a couple of plastics but the ramp is my main concern. Any help would be appreciated.

#2447 3 years ago
Quoted from Juicerc51:

Wondering if anyone can help. Really looking for a blue ramp. Mine is broken and I cannot finish restoring my machine, let alone play it, without one.
I also need a couple of plastics but the ramp is my main concern. Any help would be appreciated.

So far no one has reproduced this particular ramp. They do show up on Ebay a couple of times a year, but are never cheap. Repo would be the way to go but for some reason no one has picked this one up yet. There are a few NOS that still exist for the purpose of reproducing, but there have not been any interested parties yet.

#2448 3 years ago
Quoted from BozoTheClown:

So far no one has reproduced this particular ramp. They do show up on Ebay a couple of times a year, but are never cheap. Repo would be the way to go but for some reason no one has picked this one up yet. There are a few NOS that still exist for the purpose of reproducing, but there have not been any interested parties yet.

yeah it sucks. i'm going through a full restore and this will definitely hold me back.

#2449 3 years ago

Would someone be so kind as to scan the "admit one" ball lane plastics and the plastic piece over the ball launch? I am going to try and remake them. The scan needs to be at least 300 dpi.

#2450 3 years ago
Quoted from Juicerc51:

Would someone be so kind as to scan the "admit one" ball lane plastics and the plastic piece over the ball launch? I am going to try and remake them. The scan needs to be at least 300 dpi.

I replaced all mine recently, but all the ones I either didn't use or took off are still in storage. I'm hoping to have my storage unit empty by the end of the month. If you don't have one by the end of June just shoot me a DM to remind me and I'll dig up the plastics for you.

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