(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!


By Matt_Rasmussen

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,153 posts
  • 245 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by moonraker
  • Topic is favorited by 83 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 500 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

83828C2D-EE2B-43FB-AC02-CE99F3924B69 (resized).jpeg
296EC55F-872E-4F30-8606-3BB70A347560 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
2BB8CF8D-373B-4C47-939B-E7F1C08B212E (resized).jpeg
B520A5FB-4F90-42A1-8B0F-1269E934DF58 (resized).jpeg
6035ABA3-AE30-41B2-9BDB-D5FA763A691A (resized).jpeg
F34CF129-CBCE-4CC4-8550-024255129B57 (resized).jpeg
9FAB777B-D21A-4669-8A47-84028319FB5B (resized).jpeg
20190626_093639 (resized).jpg
LAH ColorDMD (resized).jpg
20190608_164339624_iOS (resized).jpg
20190609_084812453_iOS (resized).jpg
LAH  switch matrix section on CPU (resized).png
LAH switch matrix row 1 failure (resized).png
15608178072495293897081665714062 (resized).jpg
20190610_180913 (resized).jpg

There are 2153 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 44.
#2101 53 days ago

I went with a yellow/red set on mine. My flipper bats are yellow with red Titans. My posts with two rubbers have reds on bottom and yellow on top. There is a pic of mine a page or so back. I felt it compliments quite well. I also did transparent posts to help with lighting.

#2102 53 days ago

Thanks for all the input. Once it's back together I will get a few pics. Here is the bare playfield. Cabinet is just as clean with 2 minor bumps that will be filled and painted.

20190522_172023 (resized).jpg20190522_172027 (resized).jpg20190522_172035 (resized).jpg20190522_172050 (resized).jpg
#2103 53 days ago
Quoted from freeplay3:

Need an opinion. Decided to put orange titans on the game. Was thinking of trading out the clear star post for blue. I am also doing blue rubber posts and should I go with orange or blue on the flippers.
[quoted image]

I did the blue star posts also. Red posts on the left and yellow posts on the upper right. Orange flipper rubber on yellow bats and clear slings. Yellow buttons.

#2104 48 days ago

Interesting problem on my LAH. When I got the game, the switch on the main ramp had been moved leftwards (closer to the ramp entry, see image). I moved it back to its original location. However, I realised why the original owner made this modification. The ball moves so fast up the ramp that, after it hits the switch, the diverter sometimes doesn't have enough time to open, and the balls gets sent to the left inlane instead of the right inlane. Anyone have any tips on how to prevent this? Either slow down the ball or speed up the diverter, I guess? Not sure how I would do either. Anyone else had the switch moved on their game? Thanks for any guidance!

20190407_142159000_iOS (resized).jpg
#2105 48 days ago
Quoted from freeplay3:

Need an opinion. Decided to put orange titans on the game. Was thinking of trading out the clear star post for blue. I am also doing blue rubber posts and should I go with orange or blue on the flippers.
[quoted image]

I like the contrast of the orange rubbers.

#2106 48 days ago
Quoted from arolden:

Interesting problem on my LAH. When I got the game, the switch on the main ramp had been moved leftwards (closer to the ramp entry, see image). I moved it back to its original location. However, I realised why the original owner made this modification. The ball moves so fast up the ramp that, after it hits the switch, the diverter sometimes doesn't have enough time to open, and the balls gets sent to the left inlane instead of the right inlane. Anyone have any tips on how to prevent this? Either slow down the ball or speed up the diverter, I guess? Not sure how I would do either. Anyone else had the switch moved on their game? Thanks for any guidance![quoted image]

So just a WAG here, and also assuming that wasn't an eventual factory mod...perhaps a weak TP122 transistor that drives the solenoid. Or on the same thinking, perhaps the resistor or driver transistor driving the base of the TP122 is an issue, limiting the base current which in turns limits the TP122 current.

Boy, I bet the switch was moved a good 6"!

#2107 45 days ago

Fellow LAH'ers The Upper right VUK coil smoked on me. Not sure if the ring switch was stuck or not, but it ended up blowing the TIP36C (Q4) PNP transistor as well as melting the coil. If possible could someone put up a picture(s) of the wiring of the switch from the underside of the playfield? There is some funky wiring on mine and I wanted to verify with a working machine. A gray wire and purple wire lead up to the hoop switch. The Gray taps from from the White/Violet wire and the purple wire comes from the Green/Blue wire. I attached a picture of the area. Was hoping someone could check their game to verify. According to the switch matrix the VUK is controlled by the white/viloet and green/blue.

Thanks

IMG_4298 (resized).JPG
#2108 45 days ago

My #LAH has been acting up recently - after starting a game, the ball plunges by itself after a few moments instead of waiting for the guin trigger or the left flipper button to be pushed. In diagnostics, machine does not report that trigger is stuck. I also noticed that the plungers triggers empty a few times after a ball is plunged. Could this be related to the switch right next to the plunger? Or any other ideas? Things started after I replaced some coil sleeves including the plunger coil and after I cleaned the through.

#2109 45 days ago
Quoted from TREX:

Fellow LAH'ers The Upper right VUK coil smoked on me. Not sure if the ring switch was stuck or not, but it ended up blowing the TIP36C (Q4) PNP transistor as well as melting the coil. If possible could someone put up a picture(s) of the wiring of the switch from the underside of the playfield? There is some funky wiring on mine and I wanted to verify with a working machine. A gray wire and purple wire lead up to the hoop switch. The Gray taps from from the White/Violet wire and the purple wire comes from the Green/Blue wire. I attached a picture of the area. Was hoping someone could check their game to verify. According to the switch matrix the VUK is controlled by the white/viloet and green/blue.
Thanks[quoted image]

Here you go... If you want the originals, PM me your e-mail.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#2110 45 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

My #LAH has been acting up recently - after starting a game, the ball plunges by itself after a few moments instead of waiting for the guin trigger or the left flipper button to be pushed. In diagnostics, machine does not report that trigger is stuck. I also noticed that the plungers triggers empty a few times after a ball is plunged. Could this be related to the switch right next to the plunger? Or any other ideas? Things started after I replaced some coil sleeves including the plunger coil and after I cleaned the through.

Run through the switch dot matrix to verify nothing else is acting up. I suspect it's the micro switch 7. I've encountered same issue. This machine rocks like no other with the shaker motor , crane etc. if the micro switch is loose and or getting older they will act in this sort of way. May be time to run through the trough switches(roll) and switch 7. I would do this for starters. But go through the switch matrix to make sure all other in that row and column are normal.

#2111 45 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Here you go... If you want the originals, PM me your e-mail.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks, looks like it was rigged for a single wire on both taps of micro switch on my set up. This is a good confirmation. When that VUK coil smokes its like no other . It like a bong gone wild out that VUK opening. The sweet smells of burning plastic, wire and glue. My guess is the wire hoop micro switch stuck and it caused the coil to stay open. Roached the TIP36c but the TIP102 in the same path stayed healthy.

thanks, Rex T.

#2112 44 days ago
Quoted from TREX:

I suspect it's the micro switch 7.

Well spotted! It WAS switch #7! I recently adjusted the wire of the switch because the switch didn't register proberly, looks like I had opverdoen it and the switch was permanently triggered.

#2113 40 days ago

I did something stupid and before I start troubleshooting I am hoping there is an easy answer. In the quest to fix the rear 1/3 lighting on my LAH, I unplugged the connector circled in red to reseat it and check for improvements. Unplugging this connector caused the lights under the playfield to go out. I plugged the connector back in while the machine was on, saw a spark, and the lights under the playfield no longer work. Does anyone know the most likely cause and solution? Troubleshooting tips? I'll take another look tonight after work and all advice is appreciated.

LAH1 (resized).pngLAH2 (resized).png
#2114 40 days ago

Probably just blew a fuse. Check all on the power supply and the two mounted by the bridges under the power supply. I believe one of those controls the feature lamps

#2115 39 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I did something stupid and before I start troubleshooting I am hoping there is an easy answer. In the quest to fix the rear 1/3 lighting on my LAH, I unplugged the connector circled in red to reseat it and check for improvements. Unplugging this connector caused the lights under the playfield to go out. I plugged the connector back in while the machine was on, saw a spark, and the lights under the playfield no longer work. Does anyone know the most likely cause and solution? Troubleshooting tips? I'll take another look tonight after work and all advice is appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

This is a reason why you should not reseat connectors with power on. Hopefully you just blew a fuse. Test all the fuses with a meter.

#2116 39 days ago

Let us know if the fuses all test good.

#2117 39 days ago

It was just the fuse! Thanks guys!

1559871329403369563427263772169 (resized).jpg
#2118 35 days ago

I didz board repairz! After messing around with my machine and never being able to get more than 2/3's of the GI lights on the play field on at the same time, I finally gave up and took the board off and discovered a couple of scorched connectors. 20 minutes later and some inhaled lead solder, I have a fully working Last Action Hero! So much more fun when everything works.

20190609_194150 (resized).jpg20190609_201215 (resized).jpg
#2119 34 days ago

Count me in....

20190610_180913 (resized).jpg20190610_180923_HDR (resized).jpg
#2120 30 days ago

Hey guys, I need a bit of help please. I was stupid enough to try and adjust my bumper switches while the power was on and shortened the power of the bumper coil to the switch of the button bumper. Now whenever a bumper switch is triggered, it activates all switches in the same row, e.g. left turbo (#33) also activates switches #17, #25, #41 and #57.

From what I've read I might have fried some transistors and/or ICs on the mainboard - can you from the behaviour tell which one it might be? I do have another board (from a SWDE) for testing.

Thanks!
Oliver

#2121 28 days ago

Okay... how do i get the diverter out? Doing a top side teardown.

15608178072495293897081665714062 (resized).jpg
#2122 28 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Okay... how do i get the diverter out? Doing a top side teardown.[quoted image]

There is a set screw on the side of that diverter you need to loosen.

#2123 28 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Hey guys, I need a bit of help please. I was stupid enough to try and adjust my bumper switches while the power was on and shortened the power of the bumper coil to the switch of the button bumper. Now whenever a bumper switch is triggered, it activates all switches in the same row, e.g. left turbo (#33) also activates switches #17, #25, #41 and #57.
From what I've read I might have fried some transistors and/or ICs on the mainboard - can you from the behaviour tell which one it might be? I do have another board (from a SWDE) for testing.
Thanks!
Oliver

Well, according to the switch matrix, you have row 1 shorted. With power OFF on the game, the easiest thing to do is unplug CN10 and the do a diode test or ohm test with a multimeter on D26 (row 1 = pin 9) to see if it is shorted. You can compare it to others (D27 to D33) in the other rows to see if it measures differently, as I hope it will.

LAH switch matrix row 1 failure (resized).png

LAH switch matrix section on CPU (resized).png

#2124 27 days ago

Actually, EVERY Switch in Column 5 activates every other switch in its row. So I'm suspecting transistor Q51 or the IC behind it.

#2125 27 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Actually, EVERY Switch in Column 5 activates every other switch in its row. So I'm suspecting transistor Q51 or the IC behind it.

Then test out Q51 to see if it is shorted. You can compare to the other transistors in the other columns shown at the top row of the switch matrix chart.

#2126 27 days ago

Yup, Q51 is short. Hope the IC's intact though.

#2127 27 days ago

You can measure from ground to the IC at location 5J (part #4011) pins 4, 5 and 6. If any pins shorted to ground, then the IC is bad. You can compare to pins 8, 9 and 10 on the same 5J IC.

#2128 27 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Yup, Q51 is short. Hope the IC's intact though.

Q51 = 2N3904

#2129 27 days ago

Alright, I switched out the transistor at Q51 and everything's back to normal with the switches!

#2130 27 days ago

OMG - I just did a few test games after completely redoing the LAH. Stripped the playfield, cleaned everything, waxed the surface, tumblered the metal, new coil sleeves, new rubbers, LEDs, new bumper skirts, new balls - the whole nine yards. And now the machine plays in a whole different league! The ball is super fast, the bumbers are extremely responsive - the difference is breathtaking. Well worth the effort, and my 10 y/o daughter and myself made a fun project out of this.

20190609_084812453_iOS (resized).jpg20190608_164339624_iOS (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2131 19 days ago

ColorDMD for LAH kicks major a$$. The LED screen pops!

LAH ColorDMD (resized).jpg
#2132 19 days ago

Agreed - it‘s positively awesome!

#2133 19 days ago

Finally finished top side teardown, LEDs, and new white rubbers. Plays like new! I didnt care much for it when I first picked it up but it has grown on me since the shop job.

20190626_093639 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2134 7 days ago

Does anyone have a spare working crane motor they would sell?

Mine is binding up after moving a few inches. Something in the gear box is not right.

EDIT: NVM, no longer needed. The linkage on bottom was stuck. I was able to loosen it up and get it working again!

#2135 4 days ago

Just got my LAH yesterday after long wait to find one . My ticket is in great shape. Do you guys Mylar over it to protect it? Also I noticed because left scoop cliffy is not perfectly flush they put alittle Mylar so the ball would go in. Thoughts?

9FAB777B-D21A-4669-8A47-84028319FB5B (resized).jpeg
#2136 4 days ago

I don't have my ticket mylared. If you wax it good enough, you should be plenty fine. Not like you are playing this thing 24/7 as on location.

#2137 4 days ago
Quoted from moonraker:

Just got my LAH yesterday after long wait to find one . My ticket is in great shape. Do you guys Mylar over it to protect it? Also I noticed because left scoop cliffy is not perfectly flush they put alittle Mylar so the ball would go in. Thoughts?[quoted image]

Glad that baby found a good home. FYSA I put a coat of millwax and then turtle wax on it before you picked Arnie up and I don't think the ticket will get worn out for atleast 10k more plays. I never took the cliffy's out to look underneath, but there should be no screws or adhesive holding them down if you want to try a little bending.

Good luck and have fun obliterating my non-existent high scores!

#2138 4 days ago
Quoted from moonraker:

My ticket is in great shape. Do you guys Mylar over it to protect it? Also I noticed because left scoop cliffy is not perfectly flush they put alittle Mylar so the ball would go in.

That cliffy on mine looks like a Ruffle chip. Curled up like crazy. Not sure what to do either.

Also, I have a tiny mylar square on my ticket, just where the ball hits it on its way out of the VUK. Does the job.

#2139 4 days ago
Quoted from moonraker:

Also I noticed because left scoop cliffy is not perfectly flush they put alittle Mylar so the ball would go in. Thoughts?[quoted image]

Had similar problem with my left cliffy, currently is removed and I've been ignoring it. This reminds me to see if I can get that to fit better.

Luck!

#2140 4 days ago

I could be wrong, but I think if the hole is damaged and you put a Cliffy over it, the damage/missing wood gives the Cliffy enough room to bend and dent a little when the ball bangs into it when it ricochets off of the scoop. I think you have to fill the damage before putting the Cliffy on.

#2141 4 days ago
Quoted from shirkle:

I could be wrong, but I think if the hole is damaged and you put a Cliffy over it, the damage/missing wood gives the Cliffy enough room to bend and dent a little when the ball bangs into it when it ricochets off of the scoop. I think you have to fill the damage before putting the Cliffy on.

Exactly what happened to my set. Filling is a must, have it from Cliffy himself!
Here‘s how mine looks before filling.

F34CF129-CBCE-4CC4-8550-024255129B57 (resized).jpeg
#2142 4 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Exactly what happened to my set. Filling is a must, have it from Cliffy himself!
Here‘s how mine looks before filling.[quoted image]

What did you use to fill?

#2143 4 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

What did you use to fill?

I used "Plasticwood" filler.

#2144 3 days ago

The hole protectors on mine we're all beat up as well. I pulled them all off, filled with plastiwood and ordered a new set of cliffy's. When the cliffy's arrived, I realized the original ones I had were not cliffy's. They were much thicker and they interfered with the ball more. The cliffy's work awesome.

#2145 3 days ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

I don't have my ticket mylared. If you wax it good enough, you should be plenty fine. Not like you are playing this thing 24/7 as on location.

Thanks guys! Thanks mike! I have a power issue and will post later for info guys great group love it!

#2146 3 days ago

Hey ok so I noticed that when I bought the game the power cord was thrashed but game still played great turned on ect. When I got home turned on played but then, another time wouldn’t turn on at all. I play with switch and cord and nothing. Then It all of a sudden would turn on again. So what kind of cord and where do I get it? I guess I have to dismantle power box and it’s a re-import from Belgium does that effect power cord I need is it easy hook up or soldering, splicing? Also When I was checking fuses one got stuck and I can’t get it out of holder. Where can I find this as well looked on Marco. Thanks again guys

6035ABA3-AE30-41B2-9BDB-D5FA763A691A (resized).jpeg2BB8CF8D-373B-4C47-939B-E7F1C08B212E (resized).jpegB520A5FB-4F90-42A1-8B0F-1269E934DF58 (resized).jpeg
#2147 2 days ago

If you can replicate what the wiring is on your current cord to the power box - then you should be fine. Harbor freight sells power cables and plugs too. Or you can salvage a cord from literally almost any other piece of electrical equipment. These games are only 8A machines so nothing hardcore is required.

#2148 2 days ago
Quoted from moonraker:

Just got my LAH yesterday after long wait to find one . My ticket is in great shape. Do you guys Mylar over it to protect it? Also I noticed because left scoop cliffy is not perfectly flush they put alittle Mylar so the ball would go in. Thoughts?[quoted image]

Just a FYI: A gent out of Canada sold ticket decals and they looked great. I had the typical ticket wear line from the scoop and the replacement decal was spot on. Can't even tell it's there.

But like others said, yours will probably never wear out if home use.

#2149 2 days ago

Ok but the power box and game was fit for Europe, so do I need a special plug or have to do something to he power box? Also I have 5 amp slow blows in box it says that on top, leave current fusing? Thanks! Yes I’d like a back up ticket so if anyone knows that pinside If you can give me his info

#2150 2 days ago
Quoted from moonraker:

... Yes I’d like a back up ticket so if anyone knows that pinside If you can give me his info

Here you go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-replacement-ticket

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 9.99
$ 40.00
Playfield - Decals
Great American Pinball
2,850
Machine - For Sale
Overland Park, KS
$ 399.95
From: $ 16.95
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
$ 229.99
$ 30.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 279.95
There are 2153 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 44.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside