There are two blocking diodes to the right of the battery holder. Can't remember the exact number of hand. If either one of those are bad it would give you that message

Check out the new SDTM Cary Hardy episode on chasing down switch matrix dragons in LAH!

What happened to Cary’s Swords of Fury part 2?

It’s coming

Hello guys, strange behaviour on my LAH which I only noticed yesterday.
If one of the flippers is in tension (example when you hold a ball during multiball) the other one can't flip, it's like it doesn't works!
They can be flipped one at a time or both together though.. anyone knows why? is this some kind of software mode to prevent ball holding?

That is strange behavior indeed. I would first start by looking at your actual flipper assemblies and very the connections are correct and solid. Most of the time people completely bypass the EOS on DE games in this era. (I do) Mainly because when I do utilize the EOS's I have very bad flipper behavior. I would then look at your flipper board in the cabinet to make sure your flipper board is intact and that your fuse clips are good.

Just go with the NVRAM since it is plug and play for DE games.
https://pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

Maybe the Left EOS switch is wired to the right flipper and vice versa.

Does anyone know how to do this? There have been a few posts asking about it but no answers to either. The button activation switch comes out of the middle fairly easily, but I can't figure out how to get the rest of the switch apart.

Thanks!

I did this by accident and had the same behavior.

I've done this, but it was about a year ago. I'll lift the playfield later and see if it refreshes my memory.

Thanks for your suggestions! Tomorrow I will try swapping the eos switches and report back!

Smart Missile.....get a good grip, wiggle while pulling straight out. Install, push straight in you'll hear a click. Have nut off ofcourse. It's in there pretty good .(correction, leave nut on. Just tried now to be sure.)

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Just got in the club!
I have a friend who owns a moving business. Outta the blue. He texts me about a pinball machine that a client can’t bring to his new house...
I’m shopping it out now and loving the game play

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what a steal!

Does anybody have a machine that plays these songs?

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Yeah I'm pretty sure all machines do, its the midi version though so not super recognisable.

Hello

I put the NVRAM in and it still says "open the door" flashing when you turn it on. Any other ideas ?

Yes. You have to go all the way thru the adjustment menu until the game resets in order for it to save any settings and to clear that message.

Mine does. Except I have a pinsound card in mine.

Oh my God...
I can’t believe I couldn’t pick that up, as they turned it into elevator music. Still pretty cool. Loving this game.
Wow...It was a bear to shop out

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What looks better?

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I like the color on the bottom one

Where did you get those? I'd like a set.

I’ve got the gold ones...l matches the pin best I think

The colors are more matching. My family said the same and we voted the bottom color scheme, but the gold cards are right under the blue cards if I change me mind.

I have the gold cards. I would put the color LAH on the left and the gold ticket on the right.

Wow, never thought the LAH translite could be made any worse...

I confirm! Problem solved by swapping the 2 eos!

Sadly I'm having another issue now,
maybe you all can help. Game was working pretty well but I wanted to adjust the pob bumpers switches to make them more sensitive (they worked only when hardly hitted). I played a game after these adjustment and after a while the left bumper got stuck on with the related transistor burned. I had the same issue on another LAH which I sold without being able to figure it out..is this something frequent on this game and in general on DE games? On the old LAH the coil continued to go stuck even after replacing transistor, pre driver and coil itself!

LOL. I have seen it before. I actually think it is kind if funny and the author made some great choices on the background images. I especially like the reaper.
542 Days and Counting.....

Not anything I've experienced. Maybe the switch was too close and relaxed into a continuously touching position, locking the pop bumper on. This might also have blown your transistor. Check your switch and see if it's still working in test mode (desolder one side if the stuck coil first for testing).

Shoot me your address and I’ll drop them in the mail

Ok I just got mine back from the shop and the left scoop is bricking terrible. I have the cliffy on it and after playing three games last night it went in 2 out of 26 times i hit it directly. what can I do to get a better percentage on this shot falling.

Proud to join in the LAH club. I suspect as I unpack it and start playing around I will find a few treats. Hasta La Vista baby!

One item:

Crane lock will not activate. Limit switches on both left and right work. Coil reads 50.2 Ohms, Diode IN14003 is approx 0.5V drop. The Vuk puts the ball in the crane, it has enough force that it rolls over the tip of the crane lock and stays in place. Crane swings back to left. Activates limit and crane lock does not release. The only thing between the coil would be TIP122, correct me if I'm wrong. I have not tested this fet Q43? yet. Is this prone to shoring out or hitting max breakdown? I may possibly need to lower the diode on the coil to an IN14002. Also checked Crane lock in coil test, Will not activate.

2nd items. the ball trough is a true PITA. lots of bending and bowing of the micro switch levers to get to work. If these are not right it causes for random ball drains (i.e flippers stop) thinking play was over.

3) micro switch for Spinner. When the ball comes from the other direction from pop turbo bumpers doesnt this cause issues with spinner micro switch lever?
poor design. should have put switch under table with pull up/down mechanism. Are there any pictures of what a correctly working spinner looks like, especially the micro switch lever. Close up's would be nice.

"To be, or not to be" Not to be?
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There should be no issues with the spinner. The point of a spinner is for it to spin either direction without issue. If it was only meant for one direction - it would be considered a gate.

The coil is reading 50ohms?! That seems wrong. I don't know the specs for that coil, but that doesn't seem right. The coil MIGHT be bad, but that is a rare case indeed. Chances are if that coil is bad - the transistor that fires it is bad. I'll have to check my specs when I'm off work.

As far as the spinner goes. it appears this had a shorter lever in it thus causing the issues.

The coil is a 1800 wind coil. It states 50.2 Ohms. Which seems correct. Seems okay. I'll take a look at the board and the corresponding FET. Because even in test mode the crane lock pin will not fire at the left limit or the right limit switch. or by its self.

Best

TRex from Dallas Texas

I had the same problem when I replaced my spinner switch. Even tho the replacement part number was right, lever was way too short.

Hmmm.... Wonder why my magnets stopped working?

First time I looked at this board, what a kludge! Wrong connectors, two screws missing. Oh well, the joys of fixing other peoples 'repairs'. But the game has been rock solid for a couple of years, so despite the hack-job, it's probably been like that for +20 years and worked just fine. Can't complain too much.
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Found the FETs/heatsinks in the bottom of the cabinet. Luckily I had some new IRL540 FETs so I replaced and all is good. Going to do the 0.22uF mod as soon as the part shows up.

I had the same problem. eventually I just took off the cliffy from the left scoop (kept the other 2 on). Mine was already worn, so it's not like I'm trying to protect something that looks new.

Today during gameplay, the left flipper stopped working on my LAH. Switch is fine (can trigger ball for instance). I replaced coil sleeve, plunger, EOS switch etc. a couple of days ago, everything worked fine after that. I even reflowed to solder on the coil.

Any suggestions?

Chances are its your EOS. Lots of people bypass the EOS in this DE era. Try pressing the contacts of the EOS together and firing the flipper. If it works - your easiest bet is to just solder the two wires together and not even use the EOS. There is a board mod out there, but I haven't cared enough to look it up. I have been bypassing the EOS for years without issues - that includes being played non stop at TPF.

You, Sir, are a genius! It WAS the brand new EOS I had installed just a few days ago. Solder joints were fine, had to bend the switch blades a bit to make it actually stay closed when not engaged. Hard to spot error!

On a side note, while looking into this problem I discovered that many of the fuse holders are weak and will probably break soon. Oh well, that's Data East for you, right?

I have to do this mod too since my magnets keep blowing fuses! Do you know which kind of capacitor is needed for this mod? Cylindrical or flat type? How many Volts should it be?

Thanks!!

In case you didn't know, the 0.22uF goes from the clock (pin 11) to ground. I saw the mod here: https://www.techdose.com/repairlog/Repairing-a-Data-East-Last-Action-Hero-Magnet-Controller-Board/306/page1.html. Can't vouch for what it does, but I suspect it filters out a glitch or cleans up the clock signal.

Since it's used on a 5V chip, any cap 10V and above is fine (rule of thumb is 2X actual voltage). Since the capacitance is small, it's not uncommon to find caps rated a lot higher in voltage. I found a non-polarized, axial lead, 50V at one of the electronic distributors. I'll likely tack it on the board and secure with a dab of silicone. I know G.P.E is a member here, might want to check out his site.

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I should add that the IRL540 FETs have a lower 'on' resistance than the P20N10 FETs (0.077 vs. 0.12 ohms) and a lower thermal resistance (1.0 vs. 1.4 C/W) which means the IRL540 parts will run cooler.

Need an opinion. Decided to put orange titans on the game. Was thinking of trading out the clear star post for blue. I am also doing blue rubber posts and should I go with orange or blue on the flippers.
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I like the blue better but there's a lot of blue down there already, so you might want the contrast of orange.

I would go with complimentary colors to the dominant art in the area for best visual appeal (i.e. I choose orange).

I have orange and yellow on my machine and I like it, but wish I went with something else. Yellow red or yellow blue.