If I did it that way, you would see the exposed LED’s. I did one that way and it didn’t look good. The way it is now atually doesn’t wash it out as much as the picture looks.

Yeah, I know sometimes the camera doesn't show what your eyes see. I had a friend with a Speaker Light Kit in his Guns N' Roses (with the light frames behind the grills) and having it on a slow fade made the painted designs slowly appear and disappear in the fading light transition.

I have an issue with my attract music playing. I have it set to "on" in the settings, but it actually never plays any attract music. Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks for the info on the spotlight location, I plan on doing that with mine. Where did you get them? I haven't seen that style before - though I'm new to this.

I would suggest the speaker upgrade if you haven't done it already, it makes a world of difference for under $60. I didn't end up using the lpad as I was happy with the relative volume of the woofer compared to the main speakers.

www.cometpinball.com

Spotlight Kit

Owned this game for years, but I have finally put in the time and money to get my LAH being showcase worthy. I'm not posting pics yet, cause I still need to put him back together for Texas Pinball Festival. Fingers crossed that nothing goes wrong. Here is what I have done to him though:

Full cab and playfield disassembled
clearcoated PF
New cab decals
new sub speaker
powdercoated exterior portions (side rails,lock down bar, legs, backbox brackets, etc.)
re-powdered my rails on the PF due to years of wear
Upgrading my current pinstadiums to the FUSION set.
Alternate Translite
Polished all the metals and flame polished the ramp
rebuilt the scoops then installed cliffys

Can't wait to see it at TPF!

Put on a set of pin blade art today. Looks pretty good, brightens up game play a decent amount.

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Looks great. Might have to consider those for mine.

Goes great with the table. Definitely
on my list of to do's. What the process for install?

I lifted out the playfield, then just made sure the sides were clean with a multisurface cleaner spray. Then just took my time, lined them up and carefully went from one end to the other, making sure there were no bubbles.

Making slow progress on my clear plastic decal. Finally received a the high quality scan I was needed, and with a lot of touchup here is my final design. Now just waiting on plastics to arrive in the mail for color matching and test fitting. Getting very close now, and thanks for everyone's patience.

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If you get the color right, bring me one to TPF!

Excellent!

Okay LAH owners, the time has finally come for the clear plastic decal. I'm all about full-disclosure and informing people about my creations before they purchase them, so please review all of the details below. A special thanks to all of you who helped me with this project by providing input, outlines, scans, and even sending me sample plastics to use for color matching and shaping.

DECAL OVERVIEW:

- I used the best color matching capabilities and tools I possess to "match" the OEM plastics. What I will tell you is that I've come close, but not exact. Bottom line is that I'm using completely different print techniques and materials than the original plastics, so it is impossible to create an exact match. However, from the photo you will see that I'm not that far off (obviously different lighting reacts differently to color as well). This photo was taken in a room with no artificial lighting on, just indirect sunlight from a few windows.
- I tested a few different paper stocks, and what I decided produced the best results is OEM ultra gloss photo paper. The colors are a little more vibrant and it produces a better overall sheen. The paper will also still let light through when the lamp below the plastic is illuminated.
- To create the decal, I print on OEM gloss photo paper with a 6 color inkjet photo printer using OEM inks, I then coat the bottom (white side) with 3 mil adhesive gloss vinyl for protection and durability, and then cover the top with a high tack adhesive film. The film is not as glossy as I wish, but it is the best alternative I have found in my few years of making these types of things. Also, as you can see, the adhesive does create a slightly uneven tone. However, under lighting, the viewing angle, and the distance you will be from the decal this effect is greatly reduced if not eliminated altogether when the plastic is installed.
- As you can see, the actual plastic I'm working with is quite damage. It has a big chip out of it, and it is extremely scratched which impacts the overall application of the decal. However, it does give a fairly accurate impression of what the final product will look like when you apply the decal to the plastic.
- Once applied you will need to cut out the hole from the bottom side of the plastic yourself. I did this to allow for variable hole positions and the fact that not everyone will be able to apply their decal exactly the same every time. It is very simple with a hobby or razor knife to cut out the circle.

APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS:

1) Remove the plastic from your pin, and thoroughly clean both sides using your choice of cleaner. Be sure to rid the plastic of all grease, smudges, etc. and once cleaned do your best to only handle it from the edges until decal is applied.
2) You will be applying the decal to the bottom side of the plastic, so be sure that everything you do positions the plastic in the correct orientation. I find that placing it face down on a solid surface works best for me.
3) Before applying the decal test fit it on the plastic and make sure you are comfortable with how to position it. Personally, I like to align the decal first with the side that has the two screw slots then make sure the alignment is correct on the other axis.
4) Remove the adhesive protection layer from the decal, and only hold it from the edges - do not touch the adhesive side.
5) The adhesive is high tack and you can easily damage the decal if you stick it then attempt to unstick it due to poor positioning, so take your time and do it right the first time. When applying, have some sort of plastic edge or squeegee available (even a stiff credit card will do). It is best to apply the decal in a rolling/partial fashion while applying pressure to the areas of the decal where it makes contact with the plastic. Slowly progress in applying the decal applying pressure by wiping with your plastic edge until the entire decal is making contact.
6) Once applied, use your fingers to apply as much pressure as possible over the entire decal to ensure best adhesion.
7) Apply extra pressure to the decal where it is covering the hole in order to create an outline of the circle. Use your hobby/razor knife to then cut out the circle from the bottom side of the plastic.
8) If your particular decal has any overhang as a result of a little misalignment during application or possibly your plastic is slightly differently shaped than my test piece, then you can use a hobby/razor knife to trim the overhang of the decal if you decide it obvious enough or bothers you (typically won't hurt to just leave it if 1mm or so in areas as you won't notice in once the plastic is in place).
9) Install plastic back into pin & enjoy.

ALTERNATIVE VERSION:

If preferred, I am happy to make a version that adheres to the top of the plastic. In this instance, then adhesive would be on the bottom of the decal and the gloss vinyl laminate on top. This will provider a glossier look to the decal, but will not appear to be as consistent with the other plastics with the graphics on top versus applied in reverse from underneath.

HOW TO BUY:

Okay, hopefully I have detailed everything in a comprehensive manner that provides all the information you need before making the decision to purchase one of these decals or not. As you can tell, I've put significant effort into creating the decal along with the complexity, time, and materials it takes to produce them (each one is hand made). As a result, I've decided to offer them for $15 each or two for $25 (includes postage to US locations - will ship outside of US but will need to quote additional cost for postage once address is provided). All decals are made to order (I do not pre-produce them), and I imagine I'll have several respondents initially. I have a busy week, and TPF is coming up this weekend, so I ask that you give me at least a week from today to produce orders (I may very well be able to get some done sooner than a week, but just want to set expectations). I will only make decals for orders once I receive payment which will be via PayPal.

So, if you would like to purchase a decal, please PM me and I will detail payment process (i.e. provide PayPal details and also have you provide your name and mailing address). I don't expect that I've met everyone's standards or expectations (after all, these are not professionally silkscreened plastics), but hopefully my solution is good enough to enhance LAH in a way that many will appreciate and enjoy.
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As a point of clarification, I am only offering a decal to use with your existing clear plastic piece. I am not actually providing a replacement plastic piece.

Baam! He will be at TPF this weekend too.

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Wow....Looks great.

I've got to get the color DMD

Ok, that looks f-ing cool. My raggedy LAH is jealous.

Very nice! Still trying to decide if I’m coming Friday night or Saturday morning (working around my son’s b-day weekend plans). Either way, defininately going to play a game or two.

Tant,

Any interest in making the ticket decal for the speaker grill? I got LW3 on mine and I know the LAH speaker grilles almost never pop up for sale anywhere. At times I've seen one, but never a pair. Stick a decal on, poke thru the holes.

Not familiar with it. Can you point me to some pics? Also, are you saying it is a standard decal with holes poked through after it is applied? Finally, I’ve seen a post recently (don’t remember where) that some guy was making speaker decals. His alreadybhad holes which confused me how one insures they all line up.

Here is what I was thinking of: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-pinball-club/page/19#post-4309651

I would think lining the holes up would be a royal PIA. Likely putting a solid decal over and poking holes thru it would be better.

Hi, I have a pair of LAH grills in as new condition, £25 + postage at cost

Thanks! Postage is probably pricey to the states tho?

Wish a state side dealer carried them then I could just tack on to an existing order.

I am willing to take a look at creating something. However, for starters I need some close-up pics of what they should look like and would also need some dimensions.

One of the best looking pins at TPF. Played great, and was causing all kinds of buzz from people each time I went by it. Well done!

Applied to top of plastic because to many imperfections. Would have to have a really clean piece to apply from bottom.

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Looks right at home. Thanks for posting the pic.

I am working away from home this week but will get a cost for you at the weekend. They shouldn't be too bad as they will go in a card backed envelope.

Mr_Tantrum does it again. Great work. This is what the plastic should have been from new.

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Matt - Thanks, I wouldn't go out of your way tho, I'm not too worried about the LW3 speaker covers.

Someone snapped this at TPF. Looking good!

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It was a great game. Everytime I walked by it always had a line. The pinsound board really made the game. Imo. I loved how the mix went with display. What was the mix? Something you put together or one that was found on the pinsound forums.

That is "Thecapn" mix I have made. The pinsound forums has v1.0. I believe 1.1 or 1.2 is available somewhere on this thread. I need to make some tweaks and then update the pinsound forum.

I have the 1.25 mix on
My machine and love it!

I just joined the club. It's in rough condition. I don't have a lot of experience with Data East. It dose work 100 percent, but first thing that needs addressing is it's in spanish. can that be changed with the buttons inside, or do I need to change a rom? thanks .

ROMs... Data East was trying to do a thing where you'd set the dip switches on the DMD board
and the CPU would read and address the DMD in the language you set.
However, there is not enough ROM space in the DMD to hold all the languages and do graphics.
Note: pg01 is more or less stuffed with all the graphical images of fonts that are used in the game.
Finally, the CPU ROM has Strings and little things that are country specific...
There is a table that list all of the Data East distributors with phone numbers etc in the CPU ROM.
Get the last revision software for the CPU and the DMD. I think the sound ROMs are O.K.,
butt I could be wrong.
Great game.

Can someone tell me if that's normal or what's wrong with my tar pit?
If I hit all C-R-A-N-E targets, shoot the VUK, lock 1 light is now lit, the crane deposits the ball in the tar pit, but as soon as the ball rests on the peg, the machine drops the peg and the ball comes back into play. Another ball is auto-launched and I am now in 2-ball multiball.
I would expect the ball would be physically locked in the tar pit and stay there, another ball would be launched for single ball play.
The rollover switches in the tar pit work in test mode. I also looked at the adjustments and did not see anything applicable.

Sounds like a switch problem. Test mode and verify switch integrity. Starting with the tar pit (using an actual ball not your finger to trigger the switches) and then your trough.

Yes, that's it. The top rollover switch in the tar pit was clicking but it would only make contact if the pressure stayed for a second which is much longer than the time it takes the ball to roll over it. I replaced the microswitch and now it works. Thanks.

Hello everyone. I was going to make this available for 1 user and decided that if I was going to do this then I better give everyone a chance now. So, I will provide the link below for ONE DAY to those that are interested. This is my pinsound mix v1.2 (version at TPF). For this to work without issue just move the Audio,tmp, and config.ini items to the ROOT directory of your USB device for your pinsound. The pinsound shouldnt even have to verify the files if done correctly. Enjoy! I will provide an image for those that don't know what the root directory of drive is.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fbf4dykflvdn5gs/AAApUWhhidnuHrlFLGR8_BJHa?dl=0

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Thank you Sir! I already have your other build that I have modified for my wants, but Im curious about this one. Thank you for sharing.

Hello Everyone
Quick question hope someone can answer.
My uncles Last Action Hero has been having some problems.

Currently when you turn it on the DMD promps you to "open door" when the door is closed or open.

And it does not play.

Any idea what that could mean?

You either have bad batteries on the MPU or the batteries have poor connectivity to the board.

My uncle said he checked that and seemed good.

Specifically this is what happend

When i turned it on it says I'll be back and then open the door keeps flashing quickly

OPEN THE DOOR is what you get when the board isn't detecting the 4.5v from the batteries. So, either the board has connectivity issues with the batteries or the batteries are bad. So, I would tell your uncle to not judge by looks and actually test. Just because you put new batteries into the game doesn't mean that it has connectivity to them. Those holders are very poor especially if there is previous battery alkali damage. Another option is to get the NVRAM for the game and not have to worry about batteries anymore.

updated my trasnlite today.

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Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro for my Jurassic Park but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. PM'd maker, and he said that he just sold the last one and now has to wait for new group of buyers before his next run. Told me it could take up to 3 or 4 months.

So, my plea to all LAH owners is if you ever thought about buying one of these then now is the time! Help me get mine faster by signing up on the waiting list.

Selfish motives - of course, but you'll benefit also. Get rid of all the clicking during GI changes and also adjust dimming/flashing to help avoid the seizure inducing flashes that DE games can have with LEDs installed.

Learn about it here: https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro

Sign up on the waiting list here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfnci_UqqFLH8AF7CiGq_aPceyLlusw0XluQEeJnGR-PyJ-qQ/viewform

I am assuming that you actually opened the coin door, but if not...actually do so and make sure the interlock switch is actually working. It does want you to open the door to clear that status.

"Open the door" can also come from corrupted data in memory. It also happens every time you upgrade the CPU to another major revision. If the batteries test good...try reseating the CPU chip (C5) and RAM chip below it (D5). If not you may need to replace the RAM and I would recommend an NVRAM to eliminate the batteries and remove them. But like said above...the batteries need to test good...and not have any issues like broken traces for the power to actually get to the ram chip.