(Topic ID: 67379)

Last Action Hero club, come on in!


By Matt_Rasmussen

6 years ago



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  • 2,503 posts
  • 275 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by BozoTheClown
  • Topic is favorited by 101 Pinsiders

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There are 2503 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 51.
#1951 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

... my machine is the so called "test" machine.

There might be more than one 'test' machine out in the wild.... Glad that more than one LAH owner can help out Mr. Tant. He's doing a great job for the LAH community!

#1952 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Since I don't have the machine, I don't know much about it. What is the purpose of that, and why did they not theme it (is it just clear on everyone's machine)?
I could certainly made a decal for it, but have a few concerns/needs:
1) Really odd shape, so I would need an exact trace including screw holes or for someone to actually let me borrow their plastic for decal development.
2) Since it is so close to another plastic, color matching is a concern. Again, I don't own the machine, so it would be best if I actually had one of the plastics with film on it and plenty of blue so I can do my best to match color & style.
3) How many would be interested in actually buying the decal. It takes effort to design and create this stuff, so I don't like doing it if I can't get at least 5-10 people interested.

I would be interested as well

#1953 1 year ago

I always see that plastic with a red bulb under it. That should probably be taken into consideration when designing art for it. I assume the red was to tie in with the curtains on the playfield next to it.

#1954 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Since I don't have the machine, I don't know much about it. What is the purpose of that, and why did they not theme it (is it just clear on everyone's machine)?
I could certainly made a decal for it, but have a few concerns/needs:
1) Really odd shape, so I would need an exact trace including screw holes or for someone to actually let me borrow their plastic for decal development.
2) Since it is so close to another plastic, color matching is a concern. Again, I don't own the machine, so it would be best if I actually had one of the plastics with film on it and plenty of blue so I can do my best to match color & style.
3) How many would be interested in actually buying the decal. It takes effort to design and create this stuff, so I don't like doing it if I can't get at least 5-10 people interested.

Clear on mine too. Maybe the best thing to do is reuse some PF art rather recreating. Or perhaps make a collage from PF art. PM me if you want PF pics to play around with.

#1955 1 year ago

First thought was blue background with continuation of film graphic, and maybe an explosion above the light.

#1956 1 year ago

Still work in progress....

20190212_233034 (resized).jpg
#1957 1 year ago

New to the group, just picked up full working LAH. Great machine. I've had the DE Star Wars and DE Batman and this LAH is pretty fun to play. Already ordered the alt translite (no more big head for me). I'm planning on going thru it this weekend and I'm sure I'll have some questions as I get into it. May have to get the new topper decal from Tantrum.

#1958 1 year ago

I just put the new chicken plastic scoop cover in my LAH. It is real nice work from Mr_Tantrum! The plastic is about twice as thick as the original. Anyone needing this plastic should get one from Chris. The colors are real nice and it fits perfectly. Mine was broken in two. Glad to have this fixed. Thanks to Chris for making these parts!

#1959 1 year ago

Here are a couple of pictures of the new scoop plastic from Mr_Tantrum. The colors look better than the photos show.

20190214_134230 (resized).jpg20190214_134248 (resized).jpg

#1960 1 year ago

Is there a way to increase the angle of movement of the crane? Right now I have to make the switches protrude a lot to be hit. I want the crane to stop closer to the VUK and closer to the tar pit wall to fix my problem with flying balls. When I adjust the switches shorter, the crane does not reach them. My crane swings perfectly centered between the two switches so I don't think it is a problem with the adjustment under the crane cabin (above the playfield) that every one talks about.

#1961 1 year ago

Hi Folks

My LAH crane seems slow

I have 2 motors and gear boxes - same results

Also the pitch of the crane doesn’t let the ball roll up the holding area there an adjustment or just the main holding screw ?

Any ideas ?

Otherwise love this game but the main toy is king

#1962 1 year ago

Hi

Can someone please post a picture of the ceramic cap that is on the crane motor ?

Thank you

#1963 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

Is there a way to increase the angle of movement of the crane? Right now I have to make the switches protrude a lot to be hit. I want the crane to stop closer to the VUK and closer to the tar pit wall to fix my problem with flying balls. When I adjust the switches shorter, the crane does not reach them. My crane swings perfectly centered between the two switches so I don't think it is a problem with the adjustment under the crane cabin (above the playfield) that every one talks about.

Don't forget that you can also adjust the distance of your VUK wireform with the two screws that hold it in place. There is room to play with the VUK positioning. Be careful though cause adjusting the wireform can alter how your ball shoots up and may not make it up to the next level correctly.

#1964 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Hi Folks
My LAH crane seems slow
I have 2 motors and gear boxes - same results
Also the pitch of the crane doesn’t let the ball roll up the holding area there an adjustment or just the main holding screw ?
Any ideas ?
Otherwise love this game but the main toy is king

If you have tried two different motors and have got the same results then your culprit may be your PSU to the motor. The voltage may be weak. If your ball isn't rolling down to the holding position then you need to adjust the level of your game and you can also adjust the crane screw. Sometimes you can give the crane a little pitch and screw it back down.

#1965 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Don't forget that you can also adjust the distance of your VUK wireform with the two screws that hold it in place. There is room to play with the VUK positioning. Be careful though cause adjusting the wireform can alter how your ball shoots up and may not make it up to the next level correctly.

That's a good suggestion, but I'm afraid it will not be enough.

#1966 1 year ago

Any ideas on diagnosing a dropping right flipper? During play the right flipper will not hold up under weight. I did a flipper rebuild and it has a new flipper board. My guess is the EOS switches need to be adjusted? I haven't been able to get it resolved, and was wondering if there are other areas I need to look at. Kind of makes in unplayable.

I did get my sweet Dekker spinner decals though, so i'm ready to get my LAH back up and running well.

#1967 1 year ago

I'll have the clear ramp for sale soon. Got it in a big group of parts and don't need a spare.

#1968 1 year ago

Need the ramp.

1 week later
#1969 1 year ago

Thick sticker made alignment easy. No chance of bubbles or wrinkles. Thanks Mr_Tantrum.

20190225_143853 (resized).jpg

#1970 1 year ago

My LAH is doing something I'm unsure how to fix. The plunge kickout often hits the crane target and comes right back to the right outlane. Not the end of the world as Ball Save kicks in, but is especially annoying when Multiball hits and ball after ball is bounced back to the outlane. Aside from moving the outlane post, anything I should/can adjust to help prevent?

#1971 1 year ago

I would say raise the pitch.

#1972 1 year ago
Quoted from JSBebop2071:

Thick sticker made alignment easy. No chance of bubbles or wrinkles. Thanks Mr_Tantrum.
[quoted image]

Lookin' good!

#1973 1 year ago

Hi

Is anyone with their LAH able to do me a quick favor

My power supply (original board) only puts out 4.9vdc

Can anyone else ground out to the metal plate and tell me their reading on the TP for 5v

Just want to see what someone else LAH shows

Thank you

#1974 1 year ago

Here is a rough draft of my decal for the clear plastic. Graphics are low resolution since I don't have any plastics to scan/photo from, but thought I would see what people thought.

ClearPlastic.jpg
#1975 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is a rough draft of my decal for the clear plastic. Graphics are low resolution since I don't have any plastics to scan/photo from, but thought I would see what people thought.[quoted image]

That looks really good!

I am in.

#1976 1 year ago

Looks great, I am in

#1977 1 year ago

Also in. Much better than an awkward clear plastic

#1978 1 year ago

Thinking I'm in as well. Looks nice.

#1979 1 year ago

Gonna look so much better. I'm in for sure.

#1980 1 year ago

What would the price of the decal run and would it be die cut ?

Very Nice

#1981 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

What would the price of the decal run and would it be die cut ?
Very Nice

I'm just a hobbyist, so I'm limited on how I would produce these. Just to go through my process again (those who have purchased other decals from me can comment on the quality), here is how I make them:

1) I print via a 6 color photo quality inkjet printer using OEM inks onto OEM papers (in this case it would be a matte finish paper in order to better allow for light to come through the plastic)
2) I then cover the bottom with 3mm high quality adhesive gloss vinyl
3) I cover the top of the decal in this case (since it will be designed to adhere face-up to the bottom side of the plastic) with high tack double-sided adhesive sheet
4) I then cut as carefully as I can with razor knife, straight edge, and scissors where required

The end-user would need to perform the final installation
1) Remove the plastic from the game.
2) Practice positioning the decal on the underside of the plastic, as you will only have one chance to get it right - adhesive is extremely sticky.
3) Peel back the adhesive covering on the decal, position correctly, and apply to underside of plastic in an unrolling fashion while applying pressure to area that is touching plastic and to avoid any bubbling.
4) Using a razor knife (e.g. Xacto) you will need to cut out the portion of the decal covering the screw hole. Normally, I would do this in advance, but I'm concerned that QC and application of the decal will not always be exact.

If I am able to acquire higher resolution images so I can print in a quality that is acceptable to me, my thought is I would sell them for around $15 which would include postage to US destinations (also willing to ship outside of US, but will have to quote postage on a case-by-case basis).

At this point, in order to match coloring and create high resolution graphics, I need someone to volunteer to actually send me some select plastics from the game. JSBebop2071 mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he would be willing to do this, so he will have first right of refusal. However, others may PM me if they are willing in case he decides he would rather not. In exchange for sending me the 3 or 4 plastics I require, I will send them back at not cost and I will also provide a free decal. I realize that many would prefer not to take a risk by shipping their plastics to a complete stranger, but all I can do is give you my word and you can research everything I've done to contribute to the pinball community here on Pinside to judge my character.

#1982 1 year ago

Hey Tantrum I know I have a good scan of the Ripper Plastic. I had it repro'd due to my ripper coil burning and taking the plastic with it. PM me your email and I'll send you the scan when I get home.

#1983 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is a rough draft of my decal for the clear plastic. Graphics are low resolution since I don't have any plastics to scan/photo from, but thought I would see what people thought.[quoted image]

I am in once they get made.

#1984 1 year ago

FYI, I've had a few people email me and I'm still working on the best option regarding obtaining scans and actual plastics. My one request of everyone is that if you end up emailing me based upon our PM discussions, please include your Pinside name, as I think I'm getting confused with who is who. Sorry, if I've PM'd someone a confusing response related to an email that was sent as it was probably intended for someone else.

For those of you who don't know, in order to post photos to PMs you must be a donor to Pinside. While I prefer to keep everything here, if you are not a donor then that is when I will provide me email if you need to send pics to me, but I would still prefer to converse via PM instead of email.

#1985 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is a rough draft of my decal for the clear plastic. Graphics are low resolution since I don't have any plastics to scan/photo from, but thought I would see what people thought.

Looks great, put me on the list please.

#1986 1 year ago

I would be in for 2, the clear plastic has always bugged me.

#1987 1 year ago

This is what I think my final design will most likely look like. Still working with some LAH owners to get scans and real plastics in my hands, but I think we are getting close. Were there any other ideas on what anyone thought the plastic should look like? Not that I'm going to listen to everyone, but if I'm overlooking anything obvious that the community would prefer then I'm open to making changes.

ClearPlastic (resized).jpg
#1988 1 year ago

Looks good to me

#1989 1 year ago

That's perfect.

#1990 1 year ago

I'm in for one

#1991 1 year ago

Done deal.

#1995 1 year ago

I've been working on my LAH doing some mods and cleaning. So far I've changed out the translite to the alt version (no more big head), installed 3 spotlights, speaker lights, color changing flipper buttons, and a cop car. BTW, there seems to be alot of people that hate that clear plastic on the lower left side and are waiting for the Mr Tantrum solution which I think is great, but I decided to install a cop car on that spot and light the interior. See pics. Also, the spotlights make a TON of difference on the playfield. I attached a pic with white arrows where I installed them. Waiting on a Red Ford F100 to install as well.

IMG_2228 (resized).jpgIMG_2229 (resized).jpgIMG_2230 (resized).jpgIMG_2232 (resized).jpg
#1996 1 year ago

I’m in for the plastic!

I really like that alternate translite. Looks great.

#1997 1 year ago
Quoted from Steve350f:

I've been working on my LAH doing some mods and cleaning. So far I've changed out the translite to the alt version (no more big head), installed 3 spotlights, speaker lights, color changing flipper buttons, and a cop car. BTW, there seems to be alot of people that hate that clear plastic on the lower left side and are waiting for the Mr Tantrum solution which I think is great, but I decided to install a cop car on that spot and light the interior. See pics. Also, the spotlights make a TON of difference on the playfield. I attached a pic with white arrows where I installed them. Waiting on a Red Ford F100 to install as well.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great. Cop car was a nice addition.

#1998 1 year ago
Quoted from Steve350f:

I've been working on my LAH doing some mods and cleaning. So far I've changed out the translite to the alt version (no more big head), installed 3 spotlights, speaker lights, color changing flipper buttons, and a cop car. BTW, there seems to be alot of people that hate that clear plastic on the lower left side and are waiting for the Mr Tantrum solution which I think is great, but I decided to install a cop car on that spot and light the interior. See pics. Also, the spotlights make a TON of difference on the playfield. I attached a pic with white arrows where I installed them. Waiting on a Red Ford F100 to install as well.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I would suggest to mount the painted speaker grills BEHIND the light frames if you can. It lights the painted designs up and doesn't wash them out.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)
02 grills behind light frames (resized).jpg

#1999 1 year ago
Quoted from Steve350f:

I've been working on my LAH doing some mods and cleaning

color dmd!

#2000 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I would suggest to mount the painted speaker grills BEHIND the light frames if you can. It lights the painted designs up and doesn't wash them out.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)
[quoted image]

It will look better this year at TPF. My bad. lol.

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