I think that is a good price for a good condition LAH. The game is fun and has features not on any other. It was my first and I will never sell it. Try it and buy it!

The one sitting at 2k is gorgeous. No wear on it at all. The owner is an old dude who has the machine sitting so flat that the captive balls don't lower! This has been good for wear!

Get it now.

Just bought mine a little over a month ago and paid $2800, absolutely happy with it for the price.

Saw the ad for that one looks good. I paid $2300 for mine last year had to travel to Pennsylvania too.

I just shipped the prototype off today to the end user. Once he confirms perfect fit I will make available for purchase (or if I’m off then I’ll have to make adjustments and try again.) Hopefully will have feedback sometime late this weekend.

Count me in for one when you get them made up. Looks great!!

Good news, LAH owners (at least I think so). Due to the generosity of a former LAH owner, a spinner with both decals and a broken plastic are being sent my way. This will allow me to reproduce both spinner decals in high quality and color match to make available to the LAH community. While the plastic is broken, it will also help me better match color, shape, and size. Probably going to be a week or so before I get everything in and am able to do the artwork, but hopefully worth the wait for those of you who are missing the spinner decals (or have beat up ones) and are missing and/or have a broken plastic above it.

Not really sure why I care that much about these parts as I don't even own this game, but you all seem really nice here in the LAH group and have been very helpful to me. Hopefully, I can use whatever skill I have to say thanks, and to repay the favor in my own way by making a few of your games just a little better.

For 2k you better pick that thing up in the morning!!! How the hell is it sitting for 2k ?

Fun game with ALL the bells and whistles. Some of our other games include Houdini, AS Pro, JD, and Getaway. So a little bit of everything. LAH still holds it's own. Wouldn't be the last game I play for the night since if you light it up, it's an adrenaline rush. Running the 1.13 code which tamed it down a bit since 1.12.

2K seems like a reasonable price if it's not a beater. DE doesn't get enough love on Pinside, IMHO.

For 2k I would throw my beater LAH out and pick this one up if I would be any closer.

Anyone had an issue with The call out when powering up not finish. It starts "I'll be...." and then stops. I have this on TFTC and DE Star Wars as well I know they used to work.

Mine does that sometimes on LAH.

Hopefully someone knows how to fix. I also have flippers randomly dying in the middle of the game.

My shaker must be causing things to loosen up. I have to reseat connections now and then.

Has anyone had issues with a rottendog replacement CPU causing gameplay issues like dying in the middle of a ball or randomly having a death save?

Questioning if I have an issue.

Game is new to me, looks great plays great. Small issue I have is the kick-up hole in the back right doesn't always recognize a ball has hit it, but is resolved when game goes into ball finding mode, but it's infrequent and I'll try to adjust one day.

Main question I have is sometimes when having a good game, multi-balls flying, things are intense and I'm not really tracking what mode I'm in, balls will drain, and game will seem to pause. I'll wait, expecting it to cycle to next ball, but game appears to be thinking or waiting for something. After a short time, (maybe 15-20 seconds) ball will be kicked into shooter lane and launched into playfield. I play that ball as normal and once it drains, game moves on to next ball (if any) as normal. Guessing I had achieved extra ball or some type of extended play, but don't think game announces it clearly.

Is this pause and ball normal, or is code confused? Not super familiar with how game is supposed to play at that point so looking for insight. Thanks.

My game also gets confused sometimes when draining during a frantic multiball then ball searches and shoots me out another ball.I was watching someone play the other day and I'm thinking it has something to do with the ball trough not recognizing all the balls if to many drain at the same time bit i haven't taken the glass off yet to investigate.

Not sure about themulti ball, but the VUK not kicking out the ball is pretty common and a very easy fix. It is the switch that does not register. If you have an original one it is a looped metal ring, or if it has been replaced at one time it is a fork switch. Simply bend up the fork or loop a bit and the switch will register much better once the ball hits it.

Something different happens on my game from time to time, just too lazy to fix it properly. As the ball goes over and past the VUK hole at the top, the switch is too high, so as it falls back into the VUK, it actually rolls under the actuator.

If you have 'random' things going on for this game.

CHECK FOR COLD SOLDER JOINTS!
REPLACE FUSE CLIPS!

I have a rottendog MPU - that issue doesn't occur. Sounds like you may have a switch issue. The death save occurs if the game detects the an outlane switch being hit and consecutively after that ANY other switch besides the trough detecting a new ball. Random dying? The machine resets or the ball ends?

So, here is my first prototype of the "chicken plastic" as I'm calling it.

- Overall it works. As I mentioned before, I use Lexan for the plastic, a high-tach adhesive layer, then a premium matte paper and inks, then on the bottom a protective layer of clear gloss vinyl
- These take a lot of effort and time to make, so not going to get into it all other than to say I was rushing and made a few errors - but then again, it is a prototype.
- The plastic I used already had a cut in it that I did not see, and I got a little fast an loose with the pneumatic sander. I will clean this up and the shape will be even better
- I free drilled the holes, but had to account for spacing that ranges between 45 - 48 mm centers since this gap is not consistent across all games. As you can see, free-handing this doesn't create a clean screw slot. I just finished designed a 3D printed jig that I'm going to try that should give me much cleaner and better shaped screw slots.

Anyway, getting much closer to having something for those either missing this piece or who have a broken one. Here are two pics with one having some backlighting.

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Looking good!

And here is the perfected final version. My only question is if I need to make the blue a deeper color or not since I don't have a live one to compare to. Also, is the plastic actually lit from underneath? If not, I can use a different thicker glossier paper for the graphic.

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Yes. Deeper blue would be a better match.

No the plastic doesn't get lit. It just covers wires from the 4 bulbs and the spinner bracket above the 2 scoops.

The bulbs stick out in front of the plastic. Check the pics I PMed the other day.

Yeah, I saw that. Just didn't know if there was any underlighting or not.

Good point. No lights under.

Here is my final version of the plastic. I color matched it to the playfield blue on my Getaway which seems very close to the blue on LAH from the pics I've seen.

Also, I'm getting very close to having my 3 items ready: topper decal w/ or w/o mount assembly, spinner decals front & back, and this plastic. All I'm waiting for is some verification on fit from those I've sent to in order to test. I want to release them all together for those who may want to purchase more than one item at the same time, and I'm guessing I should be ready to present by late this week.

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That looks great!

I am very impressed with how this turned out. I was reading your posts on what materials you made it from (and wondering why the Getaway guy is venturing into LAH) and you mentioned you are using a matte paper and high quality inks, and I started wondering how your process compares to how they originally made them in terms of colour fade over time. Not a criticism, just wondering what the difference might be.

I'm getting into LAH, because I'm helping a Pinside friend with a restoration. I've done custom graphics for him for several pins, and he trusts my work. When I do something like that and I think others would benefit, then I typically get a feeler in the game specific thread. If others are interested, then I work to bring my designs to the group as affordably as I can. If I were to guess, I've probably done graphics and or 3D models for 15-20 different pins up to this point, but you are correct in that the Getaway is by far the one that I've designed for the most since I am part of that community.

BTW, I was using a matte paper but since the plastic doesn't have light transfer through it, I switched to a high gloss paper (thicker, and produces a more vibrant print). On any custom plastic that requires light transfer, I find that the matte paper performs comparatively to original silkscreened plastics.

As far as durability, I've been making custom decals for over two years and have literally sold hundreds of them made using the process I outline. I've not had one single failure, no fading, nor any complaints whatsoever with any of my designs, and I use them on my own pin. What got me doing this originally was after buying two relatively expensive sets of targets for my Getaway that failed in less than a month each, I thought I could do better . . . so I did. I've probably sold a dozen Getaway target sets which take a beating being an integral part of that game (there are 15 of them). I've had my targets on my pin for 2 years now, and they still look and perform like new. I can't speak to what any of my stuff will look like over 5-10-20 years, but Epson states that photos printed with the inks and paper I use are good for 200 years (I have no idea how they make that claim).

Here is a mockup of my spinner decals that are close to being final. I'm sure several people could use a set of these based upon what I've seen.

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I could use one of these for sure!

Going back a little while (post 1488), but attempting to install this set up on my LAH. I am having trouble finding where the USB mount connector connects into the gi, to power the LEDs. If someone had this set up, can you please take a pic or 2 of how this connects? Or any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the help

Quick update on my mods: Topper Emblem, Spinner Plastic, and Spinner Decals. I've been working closely with a LAH owner, and I think that I'm almost there now. As you can imaging, it takes lots of time mailing things, getting feedback, making changes, mailing updated items again, etc. At this point I think I'm good on sizes and shapes with just some minor tweaks, but now we are working on better colors. I'm hoping to have all of the colors finalized by the end of the week, and when I do I will post everything together in this thread and make the items available for purchase.

Tantrum is really going out of his way to make these as close to original as possible (given the reference pins are 30 years old). Kudos to his finesse, I suspect not too many pay that much attention to details...he does.

Thanks, MB. I'll be posting everything very shortly (maybe today or tomorrow) with pricing.

I'm finally ready to offer my custom replacement items to the group. Remember, these are all hand made reproductions, and will not be exact matches to the original. However, they will all be close in both design and color, and look great on any LAH pin that needs replacements for these parts.

Here are the items and pricing, which INCLUDES shipping/postage to US (I will ship outside of US, but will need to quote shipping based upon order and destination).

- Chicken Plastic | $20
- Spinner Decal Set (includes front & back) | $10
- Topper Decal | $15
- Topper Decal + Mounting Plate | $30

If you are interested in ordering any of the items, please PM me and we will work out payment details and estimated delivery. FYI, there are no discounts for ordering multiple items, but I will ship everything together if ordering more than one piece at a time.

Now for the details. To begin with, I use quality materials (OEM inks, OEM ultra gloss photo paper, etc.), and have my decals and custom plastics in dozens of machines. From my own personal experience and from what those who buy from me have said, my items are well-made, stand the test of time, and are often better than original and other third party decals they have bought before. All of my decals are coated with a high quality clear gloss vinyl that gives them extra durability and a nice finish.

Chicken Plastic | Hand made from durable Lexan acrylic with graphic printed on ultra gloss photo paper adhered from the bottom side of the plastic, and then the bottom of the graphic coated with clear gloss vinyl for durability. Please note the photo I posted is of the earliest version. The one I will be making is actually darker in color and more closely resembles the original.
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Spinner Decals | Printed using materials above, coated with clear gloss vinyl, and a full high-tack backing, with rounded corner cuts
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Topper Decal | Printed using materials above, coated with clear gloss vinyl, full high-tack backing, and holes punched to fit over rivets on top of existing plastic. This version is designed to be installed over the existing decal on top of the clear plastic circle. Note that the holes are a little larger than the rivets to account for variance in rivet position. Therefore, you will want to paint or otherwise color the rivets and surrounding area before applying the new decal so that you do not see any part of the old decal through the pre-punched holes.
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Topper Decal with Mounting Plate | Same as above, but without any holes in the graphic, and include a custom-made 3D printed mounting plate and hardware. This version allows those who are missing the current plastic from their topper or those who want to drill out the current rivets and have a cleaner full graphic on the topper, to easily mount the graphic in a way that looks original to the machine. Since it utilizes posts through the existing rivet holes that are screwed on from behind, the graphic on the front does not have to be altered with holes for the rivets. When installing, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the wingnuts as you may snap the threaded post off the plate. Simply hand tighten to a light snug. If you feel you need the mounting to be more permanent, simply put a small dab of superglue or other adhesive on the back of the wingnut where it touches the threaded post.
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Thanks, Tantrum for all that you have done. Now, how about getting the tar pit remade? lol. PM incoming for the spinner decal set....

Well, now I have to ask. What is the tar pit?

The large blue molded plastic on the left side of the playfield. Nobody makes them. Also another rare item to reproduce would be the blue flasher lense Cover’s. Pure unobtanium!

Unfortunately, the tar pit is beyond my ability and the technology I have access to.

Regarding the blue octagonal dome (550-5055-05), looks like nobody is carrying it anymore. Not really a 3D print object (no way to achieve that transparency and the facets would be difficult). Seems silly because I found clear, red, green domes at Marco's and other sites (was LAH the only pin ever to use blue?). You may just have to go to the rounded style: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-10, or possibly clear and paint it with some kind of blue tinted clearcoat (seems like a lot of effort and expense).

Mr Tantrum. Just shooting an idea out there. Captive ball pattern in blue and yellow film. Anyway to make a fix for the clear plastic below left captive ball.?

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Since I don't have the machine, I don't know much about it. What is the purpose of that, and why did they not theme it (is it just clear on everyone's machine)?

I could certainly made a decal for it, but have a few concerns/needs:

1) Really odd shape, so I would need an exact trace including screw holes or for someone to actually let me borrow their plastic for decal development.
2) Since it is so close to another plastic, color matching is a concern. Again, I don't own the machine, so it would be best if I actually had one of the plastics with film on it and plenty of blue so I can do my best to match color & style.
3) How many would be interested in actually buying the decal. It takes effort to design and create this stuff, so I don't like doing it if I can't get at least 5-10 people interested.

I would be interested.

I will take one!

It's clear on every machine. It really seems to be in an unfinished state because it covers a bulb right in line of sight and the film in the piece above looks like it could continue on. If there is a great interest I would be happy to send the pieces you would need for development. Next we could get you to work on admit one sling plastics lol.

im pretty stoked about all of these peices that Tantrum has been making, my machine is the so called "test" machine. pretty excited to get it back with these new peices.