Reseat all your ribbon cables. If this does not help, look at the capacitors on your power board. These are well known to fail after many years and can cause your dmd and game to reset. The capacitors can leak leaving a “wet” look around them.

I guess we will have to dig into this further! A lot of experienced people on this thread to help.

Did you leave it long enogh to disharge the caps, maybe 30 seconds?

I will try reseating cables. My power board is a fairly new Rotten Dog.

I had this sound problem before. My power supply board was really messed up. Looked like someone put it though a meat grinder. Some of the traces were cracked but just enough so they only broke contact for a millisecond when the shaker motor was going. It was enough to reset the sound system, but not enough to reset the whole machine. The I’ll be back quote happens when sound resets. Replaced my power supply with a new one from Xpin and all was solved. BtW, I was also having problems with the crane timing out before it reached the ball release point, so that is what really pushed me to replace the whole board.

Cable reseat worked! When you think the worst, sometimes it is the simple stuff that you forget is all it takes. Thanks!

Never hurts to wiggle the connectors on an old game every so often. Simple is good.

I recently bought this machine and I absolutely love the gameplay. It's in very good shape, only thing missing is the police badge in the middle of the topper. Anyone know where I can find the badge?

Joining this club assuming delivery completes on Friday! Used to play this game in particular at a tavern I would grab lunch at. That version did not have a functioning skater motor, crane, and probably some other faults. Very excited to get a fully working version soon.

Yay!

I had that issue and reseating the ribbon cable and roms on the sound board fixed the issue.

Woot,
Finally a member of this club!

LAH just delivered, looks great, sounds great, plays great. Couple pics below, happy to finally add this to my collection, enjoyed moving it from my Wish list to owned.

Only issue I'm having is the top right hole that pops the ball into the rigtht wire-frame doesn't always register the ball is there. Maybe 20% of the time, ball will land in the hole and pause, until game goes into ball finder mode and kicks it up. Delivery tech messed with it for a bit at setup and thought we had it fixed, but still happening sometimes. Seems to register ball better on a clunky shot, if ball enters hole smooth and quiet like, that's where if has trouble, if that makes sense.

Fun game, looking forward to putting lots of time into it!

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Welcome to the club. The fork switch sometimes has issues. I simply bend the fork up a bit more and never had an issue since.

I tweaked my fork a little bit as well. It was also dirty and needed to be cleaned.

I also had that problem and had to bend the fork up a little.I broke the fork off and replaced it with a similar switch with a cut out circle instead of a fork and hasn't missed yet.

Just a suggestion from your picture, I would plug your game into a good surge protector rather than straight to the wall. Welcome to the club.

Good for you, welcome to the 'most under appreciated pin' thread. Always fun to play. Plenty of help here to sort out the switch problem if needed.

Hello guys,

I have created an electronic ball trough sensor board for my Jurassic Park. I've got a hint, that most probably it will work in Last Action Hero as well.
If you are interested, please check my post, I may consider to produce few more.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/96#post-4743040

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I got a pinsound plus for Christmas and installed it into my LAH. I’m running TheCapn 1.20 mix and love it but it is really loud even with the volume turned all the way down on the machine. Am I missing something or are these just that loud? I tried a different mix from the pinsound website and it was just as loud. It seems like the last 30 degrees on my volume pot don’t change anything. Is there a minimum volume override somewhere?

I’ve recently been playing this game on an IPad and really enjoy it. Arnold’s call outs kinda’ bug me but I can live with it.

I have Dirty Harry and Ripleys.

Never saw the movie. Can you understand game better by doing so? And, is it a staying fun factor? Thinking of trying to find a nice one. Thank you in advance to those in the know.

I too have a pinsound card in mine. I found I had to adjust the volume on the card itself and the volume in the cabinet. Id turn the volume almost all the way up on the pinsound card and then adjust it from the cabinet. I also have the leg volume control, so throw that into the mix

I thought the movie was a blast. Most people did not get it though. LAH was my first pin and it will never leave. Lots of bang for the buck.

The movie was on Roku and Crackle for free. Silly fun, like the pin.

Mine is the plus and I haven’t been able to find a volume control on it other than the headphone volume. Not sure what the leg volume control is.

Leg control = headphone station, which is also volume control when headphones are not plugged in

Any chance I can get a pic showing what I want to go for here?

Also, a couple times when the ball is popped up if falls out of the cage and down into the pops instead of traveling through the wireframe. Confused me about what happened the first time I saw it, and realized what it was doing the second. Not often, not really a big deal, common or an issue?

Thanks,
That was temporary while I got things setup, I actually have a UPC backup unit that I plug my other 2 pins in. We get brownouts a lot down here and it allows them to keep running during the dips.

Really like this game, lots going on. Frequently screwing up my games by watching the DMD to see what it is telling me instead of the ball.

Looking for some advice...game started acting up last night. During mulitball, sound circuit resets - you can hear the game playing the initializing sound “I’ll be back” over and over and all other audio is cut out. Audio returns to normal after last ball of multiball is drained. It’s got something to do with the magnets under the play field. When I test the magnets in diagnostics, the game does the same thing. When I pull the magnet play field fuses, the problem is gone. Game only does this when magnets are firing. I tried to see if it’s a low votary reset issue without the magnets, and the game works fine even when pressing both flippers over and over, while the crane is moving and the shaker is running. Also tried reseating the ribbon cables but that didn’t help. Game has a two year old x-pin power supply board.

Item was sold.

Getting ready to put a very nice LAH up for sale in Central PA if there is any interest in it. I need a little too much money out of it but condition justifies the price. I'll be listing it for $2750 but my bottom line will be around $2500 cash on the glass. I do not ship machines but would consider delivery to someone with in a few hundred miles if they cover my expenses.

I don't think 2500 is out of line if it's fully working and a clean machine

Custom made my own mirrored game blades. Bought the vinyl off Amazon for $20. I made a template with tracing paper then cut them out. I think they came out pretty nice. However I would look for maybe some thicker vinyl next time. This stuff is .003 inch thick. All in all, for $20 and about 2 hours of my time im happy with the outcome. Here is the stuff if anyone is interested. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LYMX48I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
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Neat...but this caught my eye. Mind elaborating?

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Oh That? Thats a little TV that plays the whole movie... got it from Sparky http://sparkypinball.com/
Runs off of an SD card

Thanks - never saw that before.

No longer a member anymore but saw this and thought I would share it

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Putting my LAH back together and don't feel that the manual is telling me the correct spot for my clear posts.

I know there are 3 per sling and 1 behind the crane. Are the others really up front per the manual? Item 47 per the manual. My pictures seem to show silver posts.

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Has anyone noticed that the lamp page of the manual is very inaccurate? The manual I got with lamp locations doesn't match my playfield.

My playfield however matches others at IPDB.

I used blue star posts in the front of the slings and metal posts in the middle and back.

Any suggestions on what to do when clean, solid, ramp shots get around faster than the diverter moves? I don't think this creates any problems other than which flipper the ball goes to, but I've noticed it occasionally when playing and was wondering if anyone has suggestions.

Adjust the ramp entry switch so it activates a little quicker. Or maybe your switch is flaky? If hard and fast shots don't activate the switch, you might be adjusting the switch so that it triggers the switch easier. If that makes any sense.

The switch is what tells the game to activate the diverter, so your answer is most likely that. You can also use test mode to fire the diverter a few times to rule that out, but adjust the switch first.

Switch 46 - Left Ramp Entrance.

Can someone please confirm the dimensions of the MPD topper emblem (see attached). I'm told it is a 3.5" circle.

Additionally, has anyone already redesigned it that would let me have a copy of their file for a restoration (helping out a friend)?

It would also be great if someone who has a nice quality original could post a good close-up photo.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

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Let me know if you see need these. I can do it in the am.

I will, thanks.

Literally i was about to ask about the topper as well

Using a digital mics ....3.513"

PM and I will send original jpeg.

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Done. Thank you everyone for your responses.

So, in helping a friend with a restoration, he really needed the emblem for the topper which is apparently impossible to find. So, I was able to design one in the likeness of the original (not exact, but I believe it conveys everything it should), and wanted to gauge interested form the LAH community.

I would offer these for $20 each including postage to continental US (I will ship outside US, but will have to calculate shipping on case-by-case basis).

Construction would be as follows:
1) Printed on 6 color photo quality inkjet printer using OEM inks
2) Printed on ultra premium high gloss OEM photo paper
3) Laminated with 3 mil clear gloss vinyl
4) Full adhesive backing
5) Precision circle cut to 3.5" diameter

Anyway, if I can get 5 or more interested then I would definitely be willing to produce and sell them, so chime in and let me know your thoughts.
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So, in helping a friend with a restoration, he really needed the emblem for the topper which is apparently impossible to find. So, I was able to design one in the likeness of the original (not exact, but I believe it conveys everything it should), and wanted to gauge interested form the LAH community.
I would offer these for $20 each including postage to continental US (I will ship outside US, but will have to calculate shipping on case-by-case basis).
Construction would be as follows:
1) Printed on 6 color photo quality inkjet printer using OEM inks
2) Printed on ultra premium high gloss OEM photo paper
3) Laminated with 3 mil clear gloss vinyl
4) Full adhesive backing
5) Precision circle cut to 3.5" diameter
Anyway, if I can get 5 or more interested then I would definitely be willing to produce

I would be extremely interested, I myself have been looking for this for a while. Consider one sold if you make them. I would greatly appreciate it.

I myself have been looking for this for a long time and I am extremely interested in one. Consider one sold my way.

Here is an actual print to give a more realistic idea of what they will look like.

LAH.jpg

I need some help from the LAH community please. In designing my topper decal, it has been brought to my attention that there are actually 2 screws/rivets that go through the decal which mounts to a disk which is fastened to the rectangular plate. I’m trying to understand the exact setup but photos are scarce. So, I have a few questions in order to account for making the holes in my decals.

- Are screws or rivets used? From the good pics I have seen they look like rivets but not the pop kind. Basically trying to figure out if they are easily removable for decal install or if they are permenant and the decal needs to fit over them.
- if screws, what is the hole diameter that the screw goes through?
- if rivets, what is the head diameter of the rivet?
- are the screws/rivets placed at the exact vertical center of the decal?
- what is the horizontal distance in mm between the exact centers of the two screws/rivets?
- I saw a pic w/o the decal or disk mounted and the surface is flat with the two holes. Personally, I would choose to mound the new decal on the disc then use some adhesive to secure the disk to the plate so that riven/screw heads are covering the decal. Is this practical/preferred? I guess I could offer two version of the decal (one w/ holes so that it fits over the screws/rivets and one w/o for those who want to get rid of the screws/rivets) but was trying to simplify.

Any help is greatly appreciated as I’m very close to finalizing my design and offering them for sale.