I just turned mine on to double check. The backbox lighting is on, then goes off when a ball is sent into the shooter lane. At the same time I heard a click, so there is a relay switching them. It's located on the power supply board. Here's the interesting part....it goes to the same CN7 connector we've chatted about.

My Spidey sense tells me to look there again, especially since someone fooled around with it. Found a pic of it. Relay circled in red. Is that CN7 to the right, lower middle? I can't see the entire RefDes, Just the 'CN' part.
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Would someone lease tell me what the last code for LAH is and where I can get it? TY

Mattsbasementarcade. Great experience everytime i bought from him.

Man, I just live the commaraderie on pinside! Thank you gentlemen!

Which one do I get?

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1.13

I like my 1.13v. I have not tried the 1.12v.

I had ver 1.12, then tried the 'official '1.13'. You can read about the diff here: https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/home

Rather interesting, especially the voices that were in the ROM's but never used.

Having an intermittent issue with the crane behavior.

After M-Ball jackpot, at the start of 6 ball play, the crane travels back over to the right and stays there instead of staying over at the tar pit on the left. The crane and crane switches otherwise properly in the game and in test.

When this happens multiple balls can load into the crane .....but it doesn't move until 6ball play is over, or in the case that multiple balls are in the crane, until the ball search functions activates. Again this only happens some of the time. No other issues are present with the game.

Anyone have this happen?

Got it... can I test the Relay while it's on the board, or do I have to take it off to test it.

Thanks again,

MM

OUT

First off, I'd check the CN7 connector.

You can test the relay on the board. Grab a multimeter and check for voltages. Both the voltage that turns on the relay, and the voltages it switches for the GI.

I assume you have a schematic?

Just last night I was wondering the same. That's weird.

The CN7 connector looks great; no burnt wires or anything suspect.

I'm not too skilled with a multimeter. Can you tell me how to test the relay with the MM?

Yes, I have the schematic.

But I've done my own (half ass) test. When I turn the pin on, I can see the GI light flash for half a second and hear the relay click. When I turn off the pin I hear the relay click again. I know it's not the best test but it's something.

Hope that helped.

Thanks again,

MM

OUT

So the backlights don't turn on when the relay clicks? I should add I haven't had this problem so everything I mention is just from me looking at the schematic - so I might make mistakes. Just be forewarned.

Not to beat a dead horse, but did you compare the CN7 wires on the picture I posted with yours (sames color wire in the same location)?

That's fine. Any guess is better then mine.

Yep... same color same pins..... All looks good.

See pic below.

Thanks,

MM

OUT

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humor me here. Do you have voltage on your GI bulbs? Check for A/C on your GI.

And the backlights don't turn on when the relay clicks?

How can I check that Cap?? Without killing myself?

Thanks,

MM

OUT

Correct no backlights; but the flashers are working in the backglass.

If that helps.....

Yes, thanks! Might be Wed before I get a chance to reply.

Take a look at CN8 with the multi-meter. Put it on AC voltage (not DCV), and maybe a 20Vish range (you'll be reading 6.3VAC). Important: Make sure the meter leads are in the correct socket on the meter to read voltage, not current!! You'll need to put the probe leads on two separate pins at once. For example, to check the playfield lights (which work), place one probe on CN8 pin 9, the other pin 4. It should read around 6.3V if the PF lights are on. That will be good way to check a known working circuit. Do the same for the ones labeled backbox and see what you get.

If you are unsure of the multi-meter setup, post a good pic and we'll make sure it is set up right. Don't want you doing more harm than good!

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So......... CRAP!!!

Bought a new power supply from Rottendog and STILL NO LIGHTS!!!!!!

Not too happy. So does what mean there is something wrong with the PPB?????

mbwalker--- Do you still need me to try the above step? (Im guessing, no.)

More help please......

Thanks

MM

OUT

So I was digging and I found something:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/troubleshooting-no-gi-lights#post-4175302

If you look at post #4 If you remove CN12 all the GI light will come on. AND THEY DID!!!

Then they go on to talk about removing a "transistor." What transistor are they talking about? And should I removed or replace the transistor? Q28??

In addition, I think I have a rebuild kit for CN 12.... maybe.......................... Yes I DO.

Thanks,

MM

OUT

Glad you got an aftermarket PSU. You will be happy in the long run for sure. Once you figure out this GI issue - which it looks like you already have.

The transistor is Q28 on the mpu board. But if the relay on the old power supply clicked, then it sounds like Q28 must be good, if I'm not mistaken. But as Cap mentioned, you eliminated all the other possible problems power supply by installing a new one. So some of the info sounds like it's conflicting (the other thread talked about Q28 being shorted, but if your relay clicked, Q28 is good), were you sure it's the relay on the power supply clicking and not another relay prior?

Please post a picture of the boards with everything plugged in. Kinda hoping something is not plugged in. Did the GI ever work since you owned the game?

Let's not forget some basic stuff. Have you tried reseating your connections on your MPU? Check for burnt or damaged connectors/pins. Sometimes even just reseating can fix a bad connection. If you think that Q28 is bad - you should be able to use a DMM and test it in circuit. Compare to the others that are the same kind and deter if it matches known good ones.

I am still searching.2018-10-07 09_55_14-Marco Specialties Pinball Parts - Internet Explorer (resized).png

Anyone else seen this? I must give the artist some credit. Doesn't look too bad. Maybe too much blue for me though.

ebay.com link: Last Action Hero Pinball Alternate Translite

Yes, I saw that last week and I thought it was great. The artwork matches the play field better then an of the other translites I have seen.
But it's too much blue for me.....plus the shipping is sucks.
THanks,

MM

OUT

Yes.... very sure.... heard it and felt it. Maybe I should attempt to check the other relays

Ofcourse I will post a picture later today.

Good idea... I will reseat everything after work..... I take a picture or two.

Thanks guys,

MM

OUT

So Q28 in the other thread - they discussed removing q28 which prevented the relay from shutting the lights off. You can try that, but keep in mind it was not LAH, so try to double check it is q28.

Looking at the spec. Q28 is Solenoid Drive 11 - which activates the GI relay on the PSU BRN/ORG wire. When it activates it doesn't GIVE the ability to turn on the GI - it is what powers the GI off. When you power on your machine it should have GI. The relay should give a quick click about 1.5secs after boot and the GI should give a quick flicker. If you don't have GI on initial start up then you don't have power going to your GI. Please test your fuse and if you have around 8v A/C going to your bulbs. OR if you power on your machine and that relay clicks without delay - then your Q28 may be shorted and that charges the relay to kill your GI entirely.

So, here are 2 pictures.. one of the Power board and one of the main board.

I just re seated all the connectors....... nothing.

So, Q28...... is that the tiny black cap or is the "TIP" transistor..... I guess I need to look at my manual.
Thanks,

MM

OUT

P.S. Some of those connectors are super tight on the new board..... crap.

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Q28 is a TIP122. Should be the transistors closest to the connector. Looks like your Q39 and Q40 have already been replaced at some point in the past. Those TIP122 are easy to test while in circuit. Have you pulled the MPU yet to see if there is any backside damage?

This should be Q28.

Side comment, ditch the batteries and plug in a NVRAM after you sort this out. Simple mod and you never have to worry about battery leakage.

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And need one of the PPB (lower left board)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-test-a-transistor

post #5

(Just like everyone said)

I found it........ long and behold Q28 had Continuity; which mean it's bad ..... apparently.
So tonight I will remove the TIP and see if she lights up.

SO CLOSE I CAN FEEL IT............!

See below.

mbwalker: I do plan on upgrading to the NVRAM and 1.13ver as soon as I get the lights straight.
Then it's on to my second game COMET.

Thanks again everyone,

MM

OUT

PPB 1.jpg

HOLY COW!!!!

IT works!! I just removed Q28..... Super easy and clean.

I did see some shaddy "fixes" behind the motherboard... but I'll leave it for now.
Everything is running good but....... light flickers a tiny bit went I use the flippers and the speakers hum a little.
(Not a big deal........ just trying to get everything perfect)

On a different note I will replace Q28 next time I order pinball parts.

Next... NVRAM and new CRANE stickers

Thank you for all your help,

MM

OUT

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Sweet! Good for you! Lots of smart people here (not me) to help you!

When you order a new TIP122. Order a couple of extras. Good to have some for backup. Glad you got him going!

No kidding, shipping is probably more than the part, so load up on extra stuff!

Lol, I feel the same way. Reading the thread for the past few days like .

The hum is a common problem on DataEast machines. A fair amount of posts here discussing it.

Data East hum is the bane of owning their games. You can usually 'lessen' it by adjusting the mounting screws to your sound board or upgrading to an LED display so you dont require the HV line anymore.

I have the LED ColorDmd in my LAH. Are you saying I can remove a fuse in my HV side and eliminate the hum?

Yup! The new stuff doesnt use the HV rail. I cant guarantee the word ELIMINATE, but it should be a noticeable improvement.