I think it is hex (Allen key) bolt. Pretty small from what I remember. But dont know the exact size.

What issue are you having?

Everytime I turn my game on lately it comes on but it doesnt go to the CPU version and just the lights are on if I turn it off and right back on then it loads it everytime

It is not booting up. Can you test the 12v, -12v and 5v at the top right on the power supply?

It boots up the second time I turn it on I will check that tonight though

I'm getting 5 volts on the 5. 11.65 on the 12 + and 15 on the 12-

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I meant -15 on the -12

Can you post a picture of the MPU?

From the pics it looks like either you have current battery damage. Or you use to have some. The PIA under the batteries looks affected. The battery holder springs looks corroded too. I would check your battery connection. Are your high scores saving? I'm also seeing signs of mods or non-factory electrical alterations. Wire nuts near the top and the +12 wire to the MPU isn't like the others. Explain! lol.

I'm saving high scores I just changed the batteries the wires going up are to my pin stadium lights hooked on to the flashers in the topper the only thing it's doing is having to turn it on and off every other time I need to do the cleaning u shes in yours though every once in awhile the ball doesnt register in the middle trough besides that it plays great

I'm having a little difficulty understanding this run on sentence. Did this problem start out of no where or after you installed something in particular? For instance, did this start after you installed the pinsound board? Out of curiosity disconnect the Pinsound board from the rest of the game. See if you still have to boot up a time or two.

A side comment...change the batteries to lithium. Lithium's are not prone to leaking. You can buy them about anywhere. Cost more than alkaline, but still not a lot.

I would also check the fuse clips. They are terrible on these machines and I just had an issue where my sounds were being played out of order and one of the fuse clips fell apart when I touched it. Replaced the clip and all was well. The loose fuse wasn't allowing all of the voltage through, causing weird stuff to happen. May not be your issue, but a good thing to check / fix when you are in the back of anyway.

Scott8806 I agree with TheCapn that there is some battery corrosion, on the 40 pin part below the battery holder. It is a 6802 CPU chip, not a PIA (6821). Likely its socket is also damaged and no telling what else since the pictures are not too clear and cannot get close up to look at in more detail.

Thing about the 6802 CPU chip is that there are sooooo many counterfeit parts out there, and yes, I got a hold of many of them, it is hard to find. Sending the board out I think would be best to get it taken care of.

ChrisHibler would be happy to give you an estimate and would even install NVRAM as it would get rid of batteries forever.

You jogged my memory about the NVRAM since I did this mod sometime ago...the chip in LAH is already in a socket. Easy peazy mod, no reason not to change and ditch the batteries for good.

I will take some pictures tonight I didn't see any damage but will look harder will take batteries out and take some pics this started when i had some fuses blow a couple of months ago I changed the rom out to 1.13 that's when I remember it starting having to restart it I put my old 1.12 back in put it's still doing it every once in awhile I turn it on once and it will start the first time usually though i have to turn it on twice and it loads no problem everytime else works fine

If you remove the 6802 CPU chip, you are very likely to see battery corrosion in the 40 pin IC socket. Problem is you may also have some under the battery holder, especially if it is on the solder joints of where the + and - of the holder are soldered to the board. Only way to see that well would be to remove the battery holder. The battery corrosion spreads like cancer once it gets on traces of the board and the fumes can carry over and skip parts while damaging other parts.

What if I bought that 6264 battery eliminator would that help me I could take the battery out of there I think that just plugs directly in there cause the only problem I am having is just having to restart it twice game play is perfect

I'm going to remove 6802 chip and see what it looks like too

The battery holder is soldered in 2 places on the right side and has an adhesive that holds the holder to the board. If NVRAM is installed, I would definitely remove the holder to be sure no batteries ever get inside the machine again.

Might as well remove batteries out of the Sopranos too. This is only one place that sells NVRAM, which is where I buy 20 or 30 at a time. https://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

The 6802 may not be the only place that is damaged. Even the best picture, can still hide damage under parts. The board needs to be inspected a lot deeper with the board out of the game.

Okay I'm ordering that today how hard is it to get the battery holder out

It is not too difficult other than the 2 solder joints to the battery connections.

I can just take a solder gun and de solder them out

One for Sopranos will the attached the same way. Take note that the top of the NVRAM will be pointing down in Sopranos and the top of the NVRAM in LAH will be pointing to the right.

I dont have the Sopranos anymore I have elvira cyclone batman forever black rose

Does anyone have a video of their LAH with a Color LCD? I realize most will have the LED version as its is more plug and play, but I have liked LCD versions in other games a lot and I am still on the fence as to which version to buy.

Ok. The Batman Forever will be plug and play, but the others will not be unless someone happened to have changed the RAM and installed an IC socket.

There is a good chance that the Elvira and Cyclone have a 6116 RAM installed, 24 pin vs. 28 pin, so if you go to 6264, then a jumper needs to be changed. 6116 NVRAM is available as well. Cyclone may only use the 6116.

Do you need help installing NVRAM on the 4 boards?

I'm going to check all of them tonight and let u know

It's the batteries they were no good even though I had just changed them out 4 months ago I saw no corrosion anywhere on that board as far as I could tell and when I put new batteries in it loaded no problem still getting rid of them all the rest of my machine have been changes out already so the rom that's in spot d now comes out and the new one goes in its place

My shaker motor is weak in coil test mode but it seems fine when playing a game. For example, when a pop bumper activates, the shaker responds immediately. What problem could this be?

It is normal as it is only a short test within the coil test.

Why do you say it is a short test? I can keep my hand on the start button and make the test last as long as I want.
Can other pinsiders confirm the same thing happens on their machine?

I'll rephrase and say it is only a short burst during the shaker motor test. I just tested it to confirm it. DE designed it that way so you don't burnt it up. Software controls when and how long it shakes during game play, but only allow the short burst to keep people from holding down the start button to keep it continuously running and possibly burning up something since they cannot control how long someone wants to test it.

You can adjust the coil strength in the Audit and Adjustment menu. I turned mine down to soft and that helped to hit the scoop more reliably. (When the shot is to fast it tends to bounce out) As long as you have enough flipper strength to hit the ramp and the crane shot it should help.

Reducing bricked shots on that scoop is all about keeping the speed down on the shot. Try using the base of the flipper rather than the tip to keep speed down when the ball is coming through the inlane. When the ball in coming at the tip of the flipper from the middle of the playfield you can hit the flipper early so the that it hits the ball before the ball gets all the way to the flipper. This takes alot of the speed off as you are only hitting the ball with the end of the stroke.

Sorry to pull a post from 2 months ago but....could you post some pics of the LED with the glare guard?

Standard disclaimer applies about pictures not being a good way to judge the display, but how about these?

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Just picked up my Last Action Hero, ready to get this set up and play

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Get Arnold set up and let us see what you got!

Congratulations! Great game.

Kind of reminds me of Christmas lol.

Thanks for the pics. I think I am going this route.

The service buttons on my LAH are on the coin door close to the key lock. Is this an original coin door?
My Data East Bullwinkle has the buttons inside the cabinet on the left side of the door and I expected LAH to be the same.

Mine are inside the cabinet on left side of door like your Rocky and Bullwinkle.

I have a nos blue ramp for lah, anyone know what its worth?

I am interested in it. If you decide to sell it

$80+ shipping.

I will take it. Can I get a picture or 2 first. I will PM you my address