FYI - If you have the coin door open during diagnostics, I don't think any coils will fire while the interlock is open. You can either close the coin door (and use the flipper buttons and start button to navigate diagnostics) or engage the interlock "bypass". If you've already tried that, then you might trace the 32 VDC and 50 VDC back to find where They are being lost. Are the flashers also not firing?

What about your fuses on your flipper board? The board on the inside of the cabinet to the left. Also, if you know how - check and see if you have voltage going to your your flipper coils. If you have voltage; what is the readings?

I really want to stress how bad the fuse holders are on Data East games too. I would check to make sure your fuse holders have a strong grip on the fuses. EVERY FUSE HOLDER!

Ding. ding...

Ding.. ding... ding...

One of the first things I do on DE games upon arrival is check the fuse holders. I give the fuses a little wiggle. If they wiggle - I replace the holder. If there is room to wiggle then there is room for lack of continuity and then you have all kinds of random shit going on in the game. Good thing is they are cheap. If you know how to solder then its an easy fix.

check to see if all those coils fall on the same matrix. Could have a broken wire the chain or came lose from one of them and needs to be resoldered.. Had that happen to my JP.

Spent more time searching for parts and shopping him than playing it finally done
Now pinsound next but for now just gonna enjoy playing it

B598B827-2CAD-42D0-905E-651365AA94E6 (resized).png

The spots light it up nicely. So you found a blue ramp or fix what you had?

I found one.still have the old one.
I am still in the everyday search for the speaker grills and the start button plastic cover.
I have some admit one plastics and the spinner plastic I would be willing to trade if you ever come across that damn plastic on the start button! Ha ha

Boy, let me know if you find any stock. Mine still say 'LW3'!

Telling ya man my mind says just light them up and forget about.
I am having a hell of a time finding the plastic piece for the start button.
I have the chip that says start but the plastic that covers it looks like someone took a lighter and was like “fuck Joe” or whoever had the game.
I found a NOS gun that was nice
Great game.Really want that pinsound though with Zeppelin in it put it over the top for me just be ridiculous.

More than once I thought about just taking the speaker grills out, blasting them w/a spray can...and call it a day.

Don't forget the new ColorDMD option too!

Bought the color dmd for it ended up putting in TFTC I might just switch it over this week!

UFO's Shoot Shoot would be a good one to add to the mix. Goes good with the girl on the translite.

Dude anything UFO is tight NICE reference I have no response wow respect.
That would be cool lots of options with that thing best mod you can get IMO

Mine came with R&B grills. I flipped them upside down (already black on the back) for a few years. Then when I got the correct ticket grills, I still had the R&B's, which now hang on my wall for decoration.

What is the deal with all the LAH speaker assemblies getting swapped?

Right mine came with Tommy

I suspect at some point in it's life the DMD gave up the ghost, and the owner just swapped the entire panel w/a LW3 sitting around. Probably a routed game. it is a re-import from Italy...It's traveled more than me!

Now if I could just find a LW3 w/LAH grills...'even steven' swap.

Hey guys, I had to do a little repair on Arnold this weekend and decided to a video on it. This is a common issue to occur on this game. So, this is here as a refrence point.

lol, If you can find the JP dino grills, I can trade for plain black

Watched the video, and wondered what mix you have on LAH. Assuming it is Pinsound, is it the one on the Pinsound forum or one you made?

Its the 1.20 version that I have made and should be available on this forum. I have a couple of more tweaks to do to it. I plan to fix those and then put the 1.25 version up on the pinsound community page.

Does anyone have a scan from the "Lite Dynamite" plastic?

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

I was just catching up on Pinside and saw this, I just listed some on Ebay a couple of days ago!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292724810675?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Weird problem
The crane coil that goes down to allow the ball to be held works,BUT it goes back up to quick and the ball doesn’t have time to roll down to get behind it

Sounds like a switch problem. I would check the switch on the crane and the one on the blue ramp.

They both register in test and function during game as well as the coil on the crane?
Anything specific I should be looking for?
Much appreciated

I have the same issue, only lets a ball out about 50% of the time. Haven't figured it out yet.

Is it maybe sitting too level?

Sounds like the ball isn't getting to the destination fast enough. Try to adjust the crane to have more of a tilt to allow the ball to roll faster to the center.

I have a question about adjusting the crane. Over time the crane does not quite go all the way to the upper right scoop/ I have tried moving the switch forward but then the scoop releases the ball and it misses the crane. Is there a way to adjust the crane so it moved further towards the crane scoop in the upper right?

Do not twist the crane by hand at all as this can damage the crane motor. Always use the test to move the crane.

I had to bend the metal part at the wireform that holds the switch toward the crane to get mine adjusted. You may want to try and loosen the 2 wireform screws (that hold it to the playfield) to see if you can twist the whole wireform to the right a bit so the switch is closer to the crane when it comes over, instead of bending what I did.

2018-09-18 10_08_25-Internet Pinball Machine Database_ Data East 'Last Action Hero' Images - Interne (resized).png

Any chance someone can take a photo of the adjustment nut for the drop target bank for me?

My drops sit below the playfield and I would like to raise them so the ball doesnt get stuck but I can't see how this nut will affect the travel of the targets. I am thinking I have a part broken or missing.

Is your Danger Bar (behind the drops) working/sensitive enough? I had that issue too until I realized my Danger Bar wasn't resetting the drop targets like it was supposed to because it was jammed back. Fixed that and no issues with the ball hanging up there since.

Yes the danger bar works as it should. The ball only gets caught there on a very slow roll. I could look into making the Danger Bar switches more sensitive I suppose. I just know there is that adjustment screw on the drop bank.....

Problem when I bend the switch forward is the ball does not land in the crane. I will check the test mode and see if I can adjust it that way.

Thanks

I spent a year searching for a rocky and bullwinkle set, finally found some for $50 on ebay.

We should start a data east spare grill trading club. Just sold off a star wars, have a jurassic park grill still.

I was stating that I bent the yellow metal piece near the wireform. So the switch moves with the whole thing it is mounted on.

Yes I bent the whole yellow piece like you did and when the crane gets there and triggers the switch the ball doesn't land on the crane.

Now it sounds like you need to tweak your wireform. Can you post a picture of it please? Can you show in the picture where the ball lands/hits?

The VUK wireform has two screws that hold it in place on the playfield. You can loosen those two screws and move the entire wireform whatever direction you need it to move. That may help you move closer to where you need it to catch correctly. Also, there is some give in the tar pit mounting screws that can give you a few centimeters of movement to help too.

Thanks mike!

I will check it tonight and see. Thanks for the tips so far.

What kind of screw do yo guys have to adjust the crane ? I have a feeling the screw in my crane was replaced.