Found my problem 2 blown fuses does any local auto or homedepot see these fuses

Good for you. The older glass fuses are getting hard to find..everything is the the newer plastic wedge style fuses...for cars. You can get the entire kit at Marcos. Wouldn't hurt to go thru all of them to make sure they didn't put put in oversized fuses. If you want to try local, try a AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc.

Buy them in bulk through marco. I believe every fuse on the solenoid board is 5A slo-blo fuses. The PSU fuses have different ratings.

Okay thanks I'm still have to order thru comet and get those bendies I want to light those scoops up

@Scott8806, do you see the ball trying to launch but just falling back down into the trough? If so, you may just need to adjust the switch located on the end. If it is pushes the ball too far over, it will not launch the ball.

Hello, looking for opinions . . . my pin has started randomly rebooting. I checked the boards and made sure everything was plugged in well. I did notice that the 12 pin connector on the power supply was crispy/burned. The power board is still original. My question is, should I take buy new molex connector and pins and repin the connection? (Keeping in mind that I am not the best at soldering and new to working on my pin.) Or, should I just bite the bullet and purchase a new xpin-DE5047? That way the entire board is fresh, no worries about the caps and stuff needing replaced as well. Also, can I just use pliers to crimp the pins or do I really need a tool? Thanks for the advice.

Biggest culprit on that PSU is gonna be the C2 capacitor. That is your 5v. That little bastard is more than likely your issue. I have the corresponding cap marked in RED.

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Thanks. I think I will replace that cap and redo the 12 pin connection.

First of all check all the voltages on the PSU (above the relay box).
If 12V is missing it is also cause the randomly reboot.

Anyone have the schematics on where and what size fuses go where

All manuals and schematics are available for this game on ipdb.org

All fuses are 6.3x32mm

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Alright, I'm stumped, and I really don't want to start shotgunning diodes.. so check this out..

Issue only seems to occur when the right side crane position switch is closed. I thought I'd fixed this months ago but apparently not. I pulled it off and put a new diode on it as the existing one was shot and the lever arm needed adjustment. What happens is that when that switch is closed, then all kinds of WEIRD SHIT starts happening. The right flipper button will trigger the autoplunger, and also a multiball advance (without the graphics). Once the autoplunger fires enough times, then multiball is lit. Also randomly, whether or not you start multiball, sometimes the ball will just end (which is SCREAMING trough issue, I know....I'm getting there.). What is boggling me is that none of these things seem to have any commonality to them other than shared row or colum. No switch triggers another switch in test mode. No rows or columns are out. Every switch AFAIK (!) works correctly in that the game can see it open and closed when it's supposed to be.

Row/Col/Positions:

5 / 8 Right side position switch
8 / 8 Right flipper button
8 / 16 Shooter lane switch
5 / 2 Ball trough #1? ( Think one is on the left, 7 on right..I assume if there's a trough issue it's here because it will occur with only one ball out as well as multiples..)
7 / 3 Lower ball lock (Almost certain this doesn't have anything to do with the issue)

Position switch has a new diode on it, so I know it's not that. Considering possible internal issue with crane switch? Game reads it open/closed correctly though?! Bad ROMS or CPU chip? Stranger things have happened. Just wondering if anyone else has had this situation and how they ultimately resolved it...

I've already checked for:

Loose diodes on these switches.
Flipper button poking into the shooter lane switch and potentially shorting something (it's not)
Resoldered crane switch and made sure it's closing properly with where the crane stops.

If EVERY switch works correctly in test mode with no issues. Then you have an MPU issue. Of course try the simple things first. Reseat all connectors. Check for any loose/burnt pins on the connection points on the MPU. It may be a loose connection somewhere. When your crane moves the shaker motor starts making that loose connection even worse. Causing something to touch something it shouldn't. But if it is GUARANTEED to go psycho when you hit that one switch - you have an mpu problem.

Okay, well...let's just assume it's an MPU problem, because I've looked at the CPU boards and connections and never saw anything odd to my eye, and I've yet to see anything off in switch test. Definitely no burned connections. I've had those microprocessors go bad in a DE game before, ironically...since the only one I've ever owned aside from LAH was Time Machine. Was the dumbest thing ever. I spent WEEKS trying to figure out why the replacement board didn't work, only to find out it was a freakin' 5$ CPU.

In fact, I think I still have spares sitting around because I ordered three of them at the time because they were so cheap. Need to poke around when I get home tonight now. Hmm..

Changed the C2 cap and my crispy 12 pin connection, so far so good. The machine did not reset at all and seems to work well. I just need to fix my trough issue now and hopefully it will be working well. Thanks for your help.

Welp, it wasn't the microprocessor, unless I have two bad ones lol. Found a spare lying around and put it in...no go. Game plays identical...maybe even a little bit snappier with the replaced one. Crane issues persist, and I'm lazy. Time to order roms and a crane switch I guess.

Hello, I am still trying to solve a loose wire issue. I have a white/red wire that is just hanging. Due to the location, I believe it goes to the chicken switch. However, I have one white/red wire already going to the switch. Should there be two going to it? If so, where do the two connect on the switch. I was unable to find a good picture showing the wiring on the switch. Thanks.

Hi Uofkgrad, I checked my chicken switch and there's only one white/red wire soldered on the lug on the non banded side of the diode. Check the two white/red wires just above the chicken switch that are attached to a diode on the underside of the playfield. Maybe your loose wire attaches there?

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Thank you @Crispin!!! Your pictures did the trick. I didn't think it was my chicken switch as it worked, but it was missing the white/red wire. All fixed now. Thanks again!

Hey everyone. I'm going to look at a Last action Hero on Friday. Hopefully I'll be joining this club. Anyways, is there anything that I need to look for that's a deal breaker? In most ads it seems people often refer to the Crain. If this one doesn't work are part available for. Thank you for any insight on this game. They are asking $2k for it.

$2K for LAH is a good deal. Crane not working is a rarity. Not calibrated is more than likely going to be your issue. I would look for magnet burns on and under the PF. I would check for ball eject PF damage from the multiball scoop (the typical 'ticket' wear). Shaker motor present?(check for that cause sometimes people remove it). As usual you want to verify all boards are clean from burns or acid damage.

thank you

For as much DE bashing at Pinside, it's a fun game. Loaded with all the bells and whistles. Mines been rather rock solid and dependable. That game can have a looong playtime - it can really wear you out! A lot of fun.

Things to look for...you covered the crane already. Cap did an excellent job of pointing out key topics. The ticket wear...I had some minor wear, but you can buy a new reproduction ticket that looks absolutely great. If the magnets are bad, they can be replaced along with the driver boards.

BTW, DE are notorious for speaker hum from the electronics. Doesn't bother me, not noticeable unless everything is quiet...

Good luck!

May be joining the club tomorrow going to look at one hoping the ticket is not bad kinda pumped looks like a fun game

Is there any place that still sells the movie poster trans light? I've seen it in a game and looks great

Don't sweat the ticket...they were only like $35ish and are perfect. I believe the individual did numerous runs until he got it right. Not sure if he has any left (he was running low), but pm me if you need one and I'll look up the info you. I can post a pic if you like.

Game didn't work out today. Im going tomorrow morning to get it, or as I told my wife, I'm going to "look" at it.

Famous last words...

what should i pay for a game that doesnt work if everything is there?

Doesn't work as completely dead? Or it lights up, but doesn't play a game, etc.?

Boy, there's a lot of variable that range from a cheap repair to needing new boards, power supply, etc. Kind of hard to toss out a single answer. Probably just as important, how's your skills fixing pinball machines? Understand some electronics, have a meter, and can read a schematic?

I guess I should add I paid $1850 for ours about a year ago, and was in very good shape.

I got it. $1500, pretty much all the fuse are blown. Now, im replacing them to see if i can get more than PF lights
PF is dirty. A little bit of wear on the ticket. cabinet is in great shape Trans, in super sharpe. No magnet wear. Does have the shaker motor in it.However broken drop targets. Ill post some pics soon

Not a bad price. The playfield has mylar on it, so probably should clean up rather well. Make sure you check the manual for the right size fuses.

Let the fun begin!

anyone know where I can get the ticket overlay?

1500 is a great price - if the boards are repairable by yourself. If ALL the fuses are blown that would draw a little concern to me. Luckily every board in the game has aftermarket versions. The only original board I have in mine is the solenoid board.

Drop targets are available too. As far as the ticket goes. I'm having trouble finding the ebay links, maybe someone else on here can find one. My time is limited right now.

Pick LAH up yesterday
This is going to sound stupid but this is my first Data East
I cannot for the life of me get into test mode and the errors aren’t showing up like they did when I bought it
I can get to adjustments and expand on A13 but how do you get to test mode??
Thank you for any help

I'll look up the info on mine, might be Sunday tho. It was out of Canada. Wasn't a big deal, just had to buy a stamp for postage up there from the states. Was cheap, like $1.50 for the stamp.

I figured it thank you

great! thank you

Here is my game I picked up

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bicyclenut,

Boy, not too shabby looking at all! Looks like you might have scored!

More pics as you go thru it, please. It would be an interesting read.

Here's some pics of mine. The replacement ticket, instruction cards I found, and one of the playfield after I added LEDs. And yes, I have LW3 speaker grills...

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For sure. Ive restored a bunch of games. I'll take my time with it. On the other hand, I cant wait to play it. DMD seem to be messed up. There is some sort of board issue and/or power supply. I'll hunt it down this week. I just ordered a bunch of parts today, so once they come in then Ill start working on it.

Not sure if you found this yet, but I got mine a few months ago from user Atariaction.

Don't forget to replace the ribbon cables.... When I got mine I was getting lots of intermittent issues... turned out to be the old ribbon cables.

BTW - I would highly recommend Pinsound for this title - makes this game way more immersive! Totally changes the feel. highly recommended. There's some videos on youtube with LAH and pinsound

Here's the original link for the ticket: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-replacement-ticket/page/2

Speaking of pinsound does anyone know of anyone programming these yet on the here I have a mac and have had no luck I would definitely pay I did download Julien version but want a more customizable sound track

I thought about uploading MY mix into the database, but I don't know the rules behind it. Licensing and all that stuff. There are a couple of people in this thread that might have played my LAH at Texas Pinfest this year, and I got some good feedback on the audio mix.

Looking for the plastic above the spinner
Only one missing from my game
Also I have a extra spinner and all that attaches to it it was in the game if anybody needs one
Thanks

I was hoping someone one here could download it onto the card I have a mac and have had no luck doing it and reading a bunch of threads I have seen the same thing from other people

I talked to Julien the only guy that has a mix on there and he said he just uploaded it to the community though