Installed NVRAM tonight. So glad I did. It was so easy and now I have peace of mind that my batteries are not going to leak and destroy my boards.

Ditto for me last week. Now to get some high scores back on there.

Ok, total noob question. What is the best way to raise the playfield? I pull can pull the playfield forward, but it does not want to lift up very easily. I saw that someone else had previously asked the same question, but no answer was provided for the public. I need to lift it so I can remove a scoop and look for a bulb that I believe came loose and fell into the scoop. Thanks.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, since I haven't had the game very long. Your options for lifting the playfield are to either use the side support, or to lift it to vertical position and hook the bungee cord through the hook on the bottom left corner (when vertical). To do work, you're probably looking at using the bungee method. On mine, the bungee doesn't even reach. Raising the playfield is the only big flaw I've found with this game.

If anyone is interested (or if this is allowed): LAH is one of the free games of the month on Pinball Arcade (for Android at least, not sure about other platforms).

Yup, same thing on my end. Have managed to hook the bungee cord. But by they then, I'm almost too wore out to work on it. LOL

Clive,

You could maybe just buy a ticket replacement overlay sold on Pinside. Would cost more, but at least it would protect the original ticket under it, and might look better and be easier on install. I bought one..looks great and is holding up perfect so far (but only been installed maybe 3 months). Can't tell it's there... easy to remove, but can't vouch for when it's been on for a long time.

Just reading that you installed the ticket. I bought one but have been hesitant to install it yet. Any tips on installing it? What was you experience installing?

Jedi,

Ha...I did the same thing. It sat there for at least a couple of weeks while I pondered 'how to do it perfectly'...as curse of mine.

Do the obvious - clean of the current ticket area. I believe Mike (the seller) recommended cutting off excess paper to make it easier to install. I don't remember if I trimed all sides or just one, likely doesn't make much diff. Was very simple. I used the long top side to adhere first since it would result in less alignment error. And attach just a small amount of the edge first in case it goes awry and flatten it (like with a credit card or you fingers) as you adhere more to make sure there are no bubbles. Took maybe 30 secs top. Looks perfect. Some people have mentioned it can be peeled off if it's not going on straight, but I didn't have that problem. I did set it on top with the paper attached first to see how the edges aligned.

Your next post will probably be "Yeah, that was easy!" Post how it goes!

I second that. Tough to get in, take a break from work after you get it in.

Can someone post a pic of how the magnets are wired, connectors and whatnot? Mine is...definitely not correct, and magnets are pretty weak because there's no way they're getting proper amount of current. I just need to see a correct setup so I can make new molex connectors. No clue if the three fuses near them is factory or not. It looks like it but the way they're wired is...um...lol.

Hey Frax,

Here you go. If you want, PM me and I'll shoot you a higher res pix, or take others as needed.

Let me know if this OK, this is just one I had...but it is of the magnets.

Mark

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Wow that is the SAME ghetto setup mine has, only the solder job is crap. I can't believe they just spliced the wires like that. UGH. I guess I need to ohm out these magnets and see if they're in normal range or not because the action from them is pretty sorry, even after I resoldered that splice.

Well, I seem to have found what's causing the issue with odd ball ending and whatnot...the right side crane switch is shot....it's mushy and doesn't spring back open when the crane moves to the right like it should, which causes all kinds of fun things, like automatically losing your ball if you start Super Crane. I turned the crane off last night and was able to play an otherwise perfect game. Virtual locks actually work on this game, which is nice, because the release from the tar pit is questionable at best.

Crane limit switches are listed as 180-5093-00 but I can't find them in stock anywhere. >=| Anyone know of another viable replacement part? I haven't had much luck taking off blades from one microswitch and putting them on another one.

The blades pry off just fine with a tiny eyeglasses flat blade driver

Think I have one sitting around somewhere..I'll give it a shot. Crane is disabled right now anyways so taking it off ain't gonna matter.

Had my LAH for almost a month now. Cleaned and LEDs in. Was a reimport from France at some point, so had some creative wiring I had to sort through, but it's 100% now after some heavy cleaning/polishing. Would be a rad game to see a color dmd in!
Anyone know the changes in the .112 code over the .106?

After and before pics.

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Details here

https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

I have a LAH A1.06 with CPU 1.05. Today while playing the music stopped and the dialog would keep repeating "I'll be back". The game play is OK when this is happening. Anyone know what this is all about? Thanks.

There was an amazing looking Last Action Hero at the Texas pinball festival today. Powder coated wire form ramps and pin Stadium lighting.

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I loved that you could change the lights in the pin stadium lighting with a phone app, super cool mod

We had the same problem once, I believe the game had developed an issue and had gotten 'confused' (for lack of a better term). I shut the game off, seated some connectors as a precaution, and the problem apparently was resolved after powering back up. Wish I could add more details, but I can't. Not sure if it was hardware related or maybe a software bug (we are running the latest code).

Did you simply try shutting it off and turn it back on?

Shutting it off must have worked. It is working now! Thanks.

Anyone know what keeps the left side of the Danger sign in place? Mine seems to dangling. There is a bracket there behind it with a semicircle notch in it, doesn't seem to be broke or bent. I did notice a nylon bearing on the rod that supports the Danger sign (but not snapped into the bracket). So does the nylon bearing simply fit in the left bracket? If so, doesn't seem like there's anything really holding it in place, no?

I've tried countless searches on the web, but I just can't seem to find any info on this part of the game.

Thanks ahead of time.

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It looks like there should be a plastic bushing in that spot. The frame of the assembly (which runs flat across the playfield under the assembly) has a bend off the end that extends behind the danger bar switch and clips into that bushing. I suspect the end of that metal bracket is broken off of you assembly. See pictures.

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Thanks for the pixs Caker, that helped a lot.

I think the rod just popped out of the bracket and then the nylon bushing slid on the rod. The bracket appears to be OK. Earlier, I suspected that's what happened, and I moved the bushing back into place and pushed it in the semicircle part of the bracket on the left. Seems kind of like a jinky way to secure it tho, thinking maybe something more substantial was missing. But I guess it only gets bashed from the the front, so maybe it's enough. I'll give it a test drive tonight and see what happens. Here's mine afterwards - looks like yours.

I think it's been like this since I got LAH about 6 months ago.20180325_164513 (resized).jpg

What do you think the chances are that someone has a NIB LAH sitting around? You see it with other titles. PM me if you have one..Lol

I wonder what that would go for

Those speaker lights would look much better if the painted grills were placed behind the light frames.

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While playing LAH today, the music stopped as it has done before. This time the game play was OK and Arnold was not saying "I'll be back". Is the CPU going?

Check the 12v to your sound board. Is there a certain point when the music stops? (can you predict when it will occur?)

Really simple answer...just try shutting it off and back on again.

I did the on off thing. It worked that day then later it happened again. It occurs randomly. I will check the voltage. Thanks.

I looked at the sound board and I am not sure were to check for voltage. My power board is a Rottendog. I put plastic washers in the sound board screw mounts a while back to help with the buzz.

Hi Drummer,

Do you have some basic electronic equipment like a meter, or ideally a scope?

No experience w/RottenDog...but I sure see a lot of negative comments about their power supplies and compatibility. Not sure if it's just people messing things up, or if they really are the culprit...

I have a multi meter but I am not sure were to test on the board. I do not want to fry it!

I have a Rottendog in my CV for years and it works great. No more resets during the game. I put Raspberries in TZ and TAF to stop the resets with the original boards.

Rottendog and Xpin PSUs can sometimes have issues with 12v line going to the soundboard. Especially when the game starts drawing more current. i.e. Multiball. I will show you how I resolved my problem with my sound issue on this game in the future.

There is also a chance that you may just have a loose connection somewhere and when your shaker motor starts shaking - the weak connection is amplified. So, you can try disabling your shaker motor in settings, reseat all connections to the boards and see if that changes anything too.

I broke down & bought the NOS clearcoated playfield that was in the marketplace. It's going to be my 1st playfield swap. Does anyone have a NOS plastic set to sell me or know where I can get one? I have at least 1 broken plastic on mine (left rear corner), Any tips are appreciated!

Thanks. Sounds like a plan.

Are there any mods (i.e. Pinsound, extra lights) installed in the game on the +12V line? Not familiar w/the RottenDog power supply, but I suspect there is a +12V test point that you can monitor the voltage (as Capn sort of alluded to). I've seen some discussions where the +12V is unregulated and drops too low - but just repeating what I read...no personal experience.

Take a look and see if any of this applies: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-gnr-12v-drops-low-power-supply-or

Is this your RottenDog power supply?: http://rottendog.us/DPS004.html

That is the RD board that I have. I think it is 3 or 4 years old. I have no mods on this LAH. I only replaced the DMD and the power board when they failed. I tested the voltage on the RD board at the three round areas. The voltage was 5, 12 and -12 as it should be. I played today and it was OK again. I reset all the connectors. Still not sure why the music dropped out.

My CV Rottendog board is 3 years old and I have had no issues. Thanks.

Chances are you need to somehow stayed attached to the 12V test point to see if the voltage dips during play. Ideally, that's what a oscilloscope is for...it shows voltage vs. time - so you can see the voltage dips (or peaks) over time. It does appear the 12V is unregulated. That might be the culprit, if it's really the 12V causing the issue.

In case of last resort. This will solve your voltage drop issue. Even before my Pinsound I had issues with sound dropping out. Haven't had any issues since this fix.

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Does the PinSound stop the DE buzz? Why did you do the PinSound? Cost?

Getting an LED DMD to not use the HV line will eliminate the DE buzz. Pinsound is $350+. I bought it during a show so I got it at a discounted rate. I use pinsound because I like having a better quality soundtrack. I use the same music the game has, but instead of the MIDI quality I have the MP3 quality of the actual tracks. Plus, I added some other nice tracks to the mix. Those that played it at Texas Pinball Festival should be able to agree that the soundtrack is very nice.

Hey guys, just wondering what might cause the game to allow you to start modes without going up the ramp to turn off the Dynamite light? It has only just started happening!?

When the ball rolls over either of your inlanes it will give you temporary access to dynamite features. Instead of it being LIT it will blink for few seconds but if you nail the scoop while its blinking the feature will activate.

Well that makes sense. Awesome, thanks!!