I've only seen one nice one and it was $2,600 in the last year or so in Ohio. After a complete tear down and rehab that's about what I've got in mine including the $550 to put all Rottendog boards in it.

Ok here is the not so great attempt. My scanner is only letter size, and has a pretty thick border. I'll give it another shot at the office tomorrow where I have a ledger size copy scanner.
Both scans and my attempt to stitch on halfway useful version.

EDIT. Deleted the old bad ones. Here is the complete scan. Much better

LAH Ripper Scan.jpg

ebay.com link: Pinball Machine LAST ACTION HERO

Sounds like a great price. I paid 2k for one that had a busted cabinet.

Thank you very much!

Has anyone put some kind of color display (Dr Pinball DMD Extender) in this game? Would love to see video or pics.

Cheers!
Adam.

Waiting for the color DMD, myself. Currently have an XPIN LED orange in mine. Had it for about 2 years and I have 3 dots out.

New to the club and the forum, waiting for my LAH to arrive from STI. This is my second LAH I had one in 02 or 03 that I purchased from a collector/amateur restorer for $700 (Wow the prices have gone up) and loved the game. I remember trying 7 or 8 pins at his house and none were as much fun to play.
The problem was after a week or so at my house the game would randomly reset in the middle of play. Usually after about 10 minutes or so right in the middle of a game it would just randomly reset. Drove me crazy. Had the previous owner look it over and he couldn't find anything wrong with it and blamed my house hold voltage. I tried to figure it out the problem, tried different outlets but at that time there wasn't the resources available on line to help diagnose the problem. So I sold it back to the old owner and regretted it until now. Anyone have a guess what might have been the problem?

Thanks for this owners group and the posts

capacitor C2 on your PSU was shady. If the 5v line drops too low it will cause resets. $3 fix.

Ouch, where was this forum 15 years ago

Just brought home a LAH this past weekend. As most of you have already stated this is a great machine with tons of features for the money. I just found out last night after reading through all 16 pages of this thread it also has the upgraded ROMs installed too!

Well it took a couple of weeks for the problem (balls backing up in a crane that hasn't rotated) to occur again. Of course, the frequency "may" have more to do with my game play than an intermittent issue.(speculation of course.) I did manage to get a total of 4 balls in the crane. Then once the remaining ball is drained it eventually goes into lost ball mode, the crane activates and they roll out onto PF except for the one behind the lock by the crane cab.

Capn, thanks for the idea. I'll turn off the shaker and see what happens. It could take a while to have an occurrence during game play. I might have to figure an effective means by which to duplicate this with the PF glass off.

As a note, I can't see any switches that would trigger the crane rotation when the ball is launched from the VUK and then rolls into/down the crane arm. So I'm assuming that it's is a timed action?

When the crane is activated to move to the VUK location it will remain there until the VUK switch is activated. When the switch is activated the crane will begin movement and initializing the coil on the crane after 2 seconds to keep ball from rolling out. It is a time based movement. That being said. It seems like your VUK is getting the signal to launch the ball on the crane, but not telling the mpu to move the crane. Without going into a lot of hassel with mpu diagnosis lets try the simple stuff first.

1. Go into switch test and make sure your crane switches are working properly. Make sure that when it reaches the VUK that it is being detected that its there. One of the tricky things with this machine is getting the crane trained to perfection for hitting both switches just right. Go to the crane test mode and USE THE CRANE TO CHECK THE SWITCHES. Don't just use your fingers. Let the crane do the work to make sure the crane is actually hitting the switches.
2. Look at the VUK switch itself and make sure there are no loose solder connections and that it is sound.
3. Reseat all MPU connectors (You would be surprised at how this does miracles)

Well as luck would have it, following your previous idea (with the shaker off,) the problem presented itself in only 2 games! It happened in "super crane" mode, for what that's worth.

Capn, I very much appreciate your "k-i-s-s" approach, as this is well within my wheelhouse! I'll lift up the hood and give her a look/see.

Thx again!

Just realized that I am actually missing one of the red flasher dome lights completely. It's the one under the blue ramp on the left. Tough to see it is missing if you don't know it needs to be there. At this point in time I can only say, stay away from the ebay user pinsidetraiding. It's a local guy in LA, but if you are a newbie like me, he will exploit your ignorance.
Anyhow, I know these diamond shaped domes are nowhere to be found in the US. I had looked for the blue one before as well, but I found a source in Germany and one Australia that have at least the red one. Shipping is a bit pricy. Anybody wants to jump in and order more to save on crazy shipping cost?

Added over 7 years ago: Need a quick update. Miscommunication was the cause. The ebayer came through after all and fixed everything up. Goes from stay away to highly recommended. Apologies for the confusion.

LOL. Just watched the movie with my kiddo. He wanted to see it, since I had told him that I actually liked the movie. Guess 23 years blurred my memories a bit. Didn't remember it being that bad . Fun to see and hear all the lines that they used on the pinball again though.

That's funny I watched it the weekend before with mine. I had never seen the entire film start to finish before. BIG budget for its time 85 Million! Poor Arnie was an executive producer on the film and lost a bit of money with it. Good to see that it has become somewhat of a cult classic now.

My LAH and my son's first time playing pinball

IMG_2208 (resized).JPG

Anyone by chance have an extra blue ball lock ramp or center clear ramp for sale?

Hi,

I am shopping out LAH now. Does anyone have a nice pair of slingshot plastics for sale (or at least the left slingshot plastic)? Thanks! I don't see these for sale anywhere in the US.

Whaddayaknow.... the only plastic that was included when I bought my LAH was a left slingshot plastic, and considering the one installed is mint, you can have this one...

PM me your address and I'll mail it to you.

Well Capn, after checking all the recommended switches and solder joints(all were good,) I finally reseated the connectors. 30+ games since and no ball backup in the crane. I'm gonna believe that it was marginal connection(s) and it has been fixed, at least that's what I'm throwing out into the universe! Thanks again for the direction!

Since this is my first DE machine and with limited time on them as a whole, I am still trying to come to terms with my flippers that seem to get fatigued during play, albeit only during brief moments. Drives me crazy as I can't figure a rhyme or reason as to when it happens. My EOS switches are cleaned and gapped correctly and appear to function as they should. I actually thought it might be related to all the coils that fire off that voltage when I witnessed the ripper fire back a couple of "less than ballistic" returns...., but then I noticed that the velocity of the return can diminish a bit if the ball doesn't quite make it all the way to kicker. So who knows.....? I can't believe that all DE machines have this issue, as I have read some grumblings about their flippers not being up to par with B/W.

Saw some older posts on here about a 1.13 rom version for LAH but can't find it for sale. Does anyone have these EPROMs available or a rom to download? Thanks...

https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/

Don't forget to donate, the guy put tons of work into it.

I just got a LAH and it is missing the magnet board...I tried to contact Tony from GLM for a replacement but cant get a reply... does anybody know where I can get a GLM board or one for a stern Indy or DE LAH or GnR? I got my crane working and fixed a few other issues, just waiting for some 2n5060 pre drivers to take care of one row of lights out
Thanks
EDIT: Thanks to STRANGESUBSET1 I was able to order board from Ministry of Pinball

20170305_101456 (resized).jpg

https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/driver-boards/auxiliary/auxiliary-driver-solenoid-expander-520-5068-01.html

I might have just fried my LAH!
This morning I was attempting to test my ramp diverter coil, which has never worked. When I first got my machine, a knowledgeable friend showed me a test where he "jumped" the coil and was able to determine that the coil could fire. Today I tried to re-create that test and must have done something wrong.
I clipped a test wire to the positive tab on the coil, and touched the other side to the lockdown bar frame. I saw sparks. Since that happened a bunch of other coils are now non-functional:
Diverter (always been non-op)
All 3 pops
Both slings
And I think the scoops are out now too.

I admit that I am a novice pin-tech and am happy to learn from my mistakes. Anyone have any idea what I did to my game?
Thanks!

If I am reading this right, you basically grounded the positive terminal of the coil? Is that correct? Gotta ask, what were you trying to test by performing this? Were you really looking to ground the negative side of the coil?

Have you checked all the fuses? It would be the first thing to do, hopefully they protected your boards.

That's correct, that is exactly what I did. What I was trying to test was that the coil could physically function. It was a test a friend had once showed me (I clearly did it wrong) that he said was a good starting point for diagnosing a problem with a coil. He showed that the coil could fire when he connected a test wire, I clearly forgot where he connected it.
I will check all the fuses, thanks.

Check fuse f5, it's on the power supply board ( top left board). That should control you special coils (slingshots, pop bumpers,etc)

A good friend would have shown you the coil test menu in diagnostics.

Yes, I know about the diagnostics menu and coil test. After that failed, we went directly to the coil and thats when he jumped it to demonstrate that it indeed can work. I was just trying to jump it like he did and failed miserably.

Thanks, the fuse had blown and a new fuse fixed the dead coils. I will not make that mistake again and really appreciate your help!
Now the original problem remains, my diverter does not work. Whats the best way to diagnose this problem?

Measure the voltage at the coil while in diagnostics coil test. If you can measure the voltage you got a dead coil, if there is non, your cable is broken somewhere (I would not assume that there is any board damage yet, with the old machines, cable rip, solders loosen, etc. - I am resoldering a different connection about every 2-4 weeks ).
I'll be up in your area in July....but I don't think you want to wait that long. Get a cheap multi meter from harbor freight or fry's if you don't have one already. You'll need one when you own a pin

If there is no power at the coil, you'll have to trace the cable, tedious work, but the only way.

GET A DMM! You can't solve this issue without it.

First, check the fuse that powers the divertor. Data east has really bad fuse clips. You may have a poor connection at the fuse.

Second, check for power at the coil. Using your DMM. Attach the black to the grounding strip of the cabinet and then using the red lead tough either lugs of the coil in question. You should get a reading of 25-80VDC. If you have power to the coil move on to step 4.

Third, if no power at coil then you need to trace wire (brown/yellow) from coil all the way up stream to find the break in the connection. If you find no broken connection all the way to the PCB - CHECK YOUR FUSE and FUSE CONNECTOR.

Fourth, if you have power to the coil, but it doesnt fire in test mode then the chances are your Q27 for the divertor is shot. TIP122 needs to be replaced with a TIP102. You can test the transistor with your multimeter too. TIP122/102: Put the black lead of the DMM on the center lead or on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor one at a time. The DMM should show a reading of .4 to .6 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.

I always replace my pre-driver while im at it. 2N4401.

Check your resistance on your coil too. Anything less than 3ohms is bad.

Thank you, I have a DMM.
I dont think its the fuse, I just replaced the fuse that the diverter uses after I blew it up a few posts above. All the other coils that share that fuse now function normally.
I will follow your instructions this evening after work and report back!

You can bring your board with you when you come to my place, we can test it in my LAH to see if it is the board itself or something on playfield. If you dont have solved by then...

Any chance you could walk me through this...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-has-on-row-of-lights-out#post-3667205

Thats a great idea! If i dont have it fixed by then ill bring it down.

Could someone please check the wire colors on the chicken trough switch? I went to change the switch and got sidetracked and now I can't remember which wire goes on which side of the switch.
To clarify, it is the switch that activated the chicken shot not the dynamite feature trough switch. I would appreciate any help on this!
Thanks.

I had these, there not great but might help...let me know if you need me to get some better pics...

030 (resized).jpg

031 (resized).jpg

I wish they helped but I can't quite still tell which wire is which. That said I'll take a look at it when I'm in front the machine. It may be exactly what I need. Either way, thanks for the pics!

I'll get some better photos when I get home...

20170327_205946 (resized).jpg

Thanks a lot to both of you that is perfect. I can now solder with some confidence. Very nice of both of you to take the time!

Got my Pinsound board going for this game. I'm making changes to the soundtrack. I'll post a video of my music selection in the future.

P.S.
For those that plan to get a pinsound board. Something you need to make aware of to the pinsound guys is that if you have an aftermarket PSU and/or MPU. This will affect the type of firmware/hardware that will be required. For some reason there is an issue with XPin PSUs and this board. Doesn't give enough voltage. So they wired up a connector to feed the board 18v - giving it plenty of juice. Then there were some intermittent issues with sound not working. They determined that was due to my Rottendog mpu and they changed the type of firmware for the card to have on it. All is good now.

Hi guys,

New to the club as of last week.

I'm looking at changing out the playfield supports are they are so small and one is torn right out of the underside of the playfield.

Would probably like to do the same to my JP.

Has anybody done this before? If so what is the right newer style support that can be used.

Marco's seems to have a good selection just not sure which one to go with.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CABP-LEGLEVEL?VIEW_SIZE=12&VIEW_INDEX=1&view=card&sortOrder=SortProductField:totalTimesViewed

somebody saw this?

ebay.com link: itm

How loud is your speaking hum in attract-mode?

Mine's starting to bother me a tad.

Data East games are bad about speaker hum. Couple of things to LESSEN the hum. Loosen and/or tighten the screws that hold your sound card.

Seriously?