No boot? You aren't getting 5v to your mpu.

1.Check all fuses (not just visually, use your multimeter)
2. Once all fuses are verified and good - check your voltages at your power supply test points.

Data East games are known for having crappy fuse holders. You may have a cracked or sloppy connection.

Can anyone tell me why the plastic above the left outlane is clear? I'm finishing up my LAH now and I thought I was missing a plastic. Now I see pics online and they all have a clear plastic. What gives?

Oh, and a few pics of my slightly modded lah. Too much yellow?

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First LAH with powder coated rails like mine that I have seen. You are missing the "Admit One" plastics on your outlanes. I like how your data east is yellow and black. I may do mine like that now. Mine is currently down for repairs....

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Ive been looking for the admit one plastics for over a year now

Does anybody have the alternate translite in a high res picture format file?

Doubt anyone has that except the person that made it. Either someone that owns it can scan it in for you or you can buy it via ebay. It's usually $100.

I do not need the printed one, only the file. It's simply the movie poster but I do not have the poster either in high quality. A scan would be nice! Can also be in parts, I'll stitch it together by myself...

Honestly, I didn't realize that the alternate was the movie poster. lol. Looks like I can get the movie poster in 'good enough' resolution and use some photoshop skills to recreate it. When I get some spare time I'll see if i can do it and post here if done. Otherwise, good luck on someone having the files you need.

lol. I was bored and gave it a shot. Here is mine. Pretty damn close to the alternate. What you think? I have it at 26.5'' x 22.5''.

LAH alternate translite (resized).jpg

Hello,
does anyone know what to search for when your display shows "Open the Door" but everything is checked?
I ordered an Nvram and installed.The same.
The Mpu boots ,Pia led is off and the other 2 light as supposed.
I see on the display the audit message and then Open the Door.After that it stays blank(It gives me a command 80 message randomly).
Entering the diagnostic or audit it steps every 2 and i cannot change many...
Of course i have no sound.
I have checked voltage to Mpu...on the pin or on the bench.Looks ok.

I have no idea what to llok for any more...
any idea?

You should probably open a separate thread in the tech help section. I would say that open the door means that the machine does not think the batteries are working. Was the NVRAM installed correctly? I would also check all of the plugs in the CPU, you may be off a row or a column.

First off, welcome to the club! As far as updating the roms goes - I currently have older versions and game plays fine. I haven't even bothered to see what the updates do. lol. I do know that when you do update the roms you need to have all the roms (mpu,sound,display) the same. Having different revisions can have intermittent affects. If you are getting "come back later" nonstop then you may have a switch issue with the multiball scoop. The shaker motor is probably gone cause it was going off constantly when that switch is activated. Go into your diagnostics and go through the switches to see which ones are malfunctioning. When game is at rest the only switches that should be active are: Crane, Trough 1,2,3,4,5,6. Any other active switches and you have an issue. The missing spinner between the scoops is gonna cause you to miss points, but isn't essential to any mode. Replacing it may be a challenge. The topper replacement is going to be even harder. If you at least want the police light effect. You can buy some police lights off of amazon and wire them, but replace the bulbs with led or you will blow a fuse. As far as the shaker motor goes - it adds to the feel of the game, but not a necessity. When I take my game to shows I turn it off.

As a kid, my brother and I came into some money ($20!) and went to Big Lots to see what toy we could get. For some reason, probably due to Arnold's face being on the box, we bought the car and action figure for Last Action Hero. We hadn't even seen the movie.

I just watched the movie again after playing the game and I think I'm gonna have to get this game. It seems pretty fun. How are the sounds? I was in a crowded area and couldn't hear it. I assume DE style music and movie call outs. Is the music fidelity pretty good?

Hi all,

Had this machine and was working perfectly until a few days ago. Machine turns on as normal and starts a new game, however the ball goes into the ramp and will not fire. The gun will sound the trigger and the game seems to play on as normal, just won't actually fire the pinball into the play field.

I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to pinball machines so would appreciate if anyone could advise how to diagnose the problem or point me in the right direction. One thing to note, I had a friend recently replace a few fuses in the machine (and funny enough the problem seem to occur straight after this) so this could be the source of the problem. Is there a particular fuse I should check?

I would start with checking the wires that go to the coil that fires the ball.

The fuse holders on Data East games are notoriously flimsy and break. If it happened straight after a fuse was changed check this first.

Take the glass off aND check to see what other coils aren't firing. They should coincide with the same fuse. More than likely it's the fuse. Like the previous posts. Data east fuse clips are horrible.

Thanks everyone - so I took off the glass this morning and looks like it's just the trigger.

Dumb question - but how can I tell which fuse links to the trigger. Also because The old fuses were thrown out and assuming the new fuse is the incorrect type, how do I determine what type of fuse is should replace it with?

all fuses on the solenoid board are 5A slo blo. If its only the shooter that isn't firing then you may want to examine the coil to make sure its connected properly. One fuse doesn't ONLY power the shooter lane. When you pull the trigger does it make the sound in the game as if you fired the ball? If so, the switch is good. Just the coil communication is bad.

Cheers thanks TheCapn! I had another look tonight and when I do pull the trigger it sounds as if I fired the ball (just won't physically fire the ball). Also I just noticed neither of the flippers are working as well; and that when I press the left flipper it makes the same sound as the trigger (e.g. sounds as if the ball is firing). All a bit strange - but seeing the problems with the flippers as well makes me think it's one of the fuses? Or could be completely wrong...

You savvy with a DMM? If so an easy way to check fuses without having to pull them out is to put it on the resistor setting. Measure the fuse from end to end with the dmm. If you get any reading (0.01+) it is good. If you get nothing (---) its bad. Like most have said. You may have a bad fuse or your fuse clips are not getting a good connection. I would pull the board and check them. If nothing else, grab the fuses one at a time and see if you have any giggle in the slots. if the fuse moves or comes out with ease - replace the clips! I have had fuse clips that look like they are intact, but they are literally there just for looks.

The left flipper will fire the ball that's why you get the sound

Thanks all - will have a look and see how I go!

Hey guys any help would be great. I just bought a LAH that a guy took everything off the playfield to clean and wax, never got to cleaning and waxing it, so I have the game and 2 boxes of parts. He lost the photos he took. Does anybody got some detailed photos you could share with me that you took as you were clearing your playfield? Please PM me and I'll get you my email or cell number. Thanks for any help.

I don't have the game but the top rollover lanes use two styles of posts. One clear plastic
and the other the smaller cylinder metal post. You have to examine the playfield dents
to see which post goes where.

I can get you photos when I get rid of the machine that is currently blocking my LAH. My LAH is down for repairs anyways so now would be a good time to get photos for you.

Can anyone point me in the direction of some decals for the spinner on LAH? A scan of one would be great also thank you

Well, I think I finally qualify for entry into the exclusive LAH Club! After lengthy ruminations, I pulled the trigger(pun intended) on a very nice example of the title. I consider the 2k I paid to be cheap for the fun this game provides with all that DE has put into it! I must admit though, it is my first DE machine and I was concerned that it would subject to a whole new set of technical nuances/quirks/issues that, for the most part, my limited Bally/Williams knowledge could not be employed ( an installed Rottendog MPU helped a bit to quell concerns.)

After 4 weeks of playing, tweaking, cleaning and general new game affection, I am now ready to address a couple of "nuisances/nuances" that I cannot fix. Since this forum seems like an obvious source of seasoned LAH game info, it would be nice to see if there are fixes or we all just live with these game specific quirks.

Here goes.

1. During multi ball and in shooting the crane VUK to initiate the "Jackpot" shot, I have ended up with as many as 3 balls in the crane. It normally would move to unload the ball into tar pit, but sometimes the crane fails to move, thereby causing the "ball backup." When the only balls remaining in play are the stuck ones, the machine goes into "missing ball mode" and when the crane finally moves, the ball(s) fall out the end of the crane and play can continue. Mind you, this only happens when my frenetic flailing occasionally manages to shoot multiple balls to the VUK, but it bothers me/others to have the play come to a halt. Thoughts?

2. When a CRANE targets are dropped, the ball sometimes get stuck over the target(s) that have been dropped. The ball is freed when the targets reset during "missing ball mode." I checked to see if I could adjust the the lowered target elevation, but it appears there are no slotted holes for adjustment. Am I missing something? I know I can McGiver a fix using the target reset arm.

I would appreciate any direction/thoughts from the esteemed members.
Thanks in advance,
Larry

There should be an "L" bracket to one side of the drop target bank.
You have to loosen the two hex head screws mounted on the side of the
"L" bracket. Then, adjust the reset plate by turning the other hex head
screw (mounted on the face of the main drop target bracket and screws
into the face of the "L" bracket ). When satisfied with the height of the
dropped drop targets, tighten the two side screws on the "L" bracket.
If the five bank drop target assembly was replaced with one that was used
in the Simpsons pinball then, there are no adjustments; You got robbed.
Note: make sure you have the spring wire form on the back of the "Do Not Hit"
plate.
------
Check your switches to the crane alignment and VUK assembly and outhole
assembly. Can not tell what is happening unless you can post a video.

I found the "L" bracket(that I missed previously ) and adjusted the target elevation. The 2 crane limit switches work as they should. The VUK circular wire form switch was not perfectly centered, so I fixed that and checked that a ball actuates it reliably. I also made sure the VUK coil is firmly held in place as it had a little slop.

I guess a few games are in order to check results. Big Thanks for the direction and I'll post final outcome of the repairs/adjustments.

Hello Everybody.

I finally got my first pinball machine earlier this week...Yeah. I did some research (could have done more, admitted), but I found a decent priced LAH in my area, and I do recall playing this game quite a bit when it launched back in the days. I thought I actually got a steal on a machine that seems to be in pretty good shape on the actual play board, but the cabinet is completely busted (supposedly was on exterior patio of a bar for a couple years, so the decals are faded to almost not visible and the wood is completely busted, swollen, chipping, etc.). I figured I can work on the cabinet as a nice project with my older son (after we enjoy the game for a while). Seeing what some of you guys paid for this....well, this is LA, everything is more expensive over here. But I am happy, love the game.
So a couple things did come up during the first couple days already and since I am a complete newbie, I figured I join the forum and ask a couple questions. I did read through all the pages and did find some similar issues as I have encountered, unfortunately, being that newbie, I need a bit more explanation for dummies, so apologies for that.
1. The ball seems to get stuck in the hole for the lift on the upper right corner once in a while. It's the one that leads up to the ramp that also serves the crane when in the right position. It just drops into the hole and nothing happens. After 20 seconds or so, the machine goes through it's missing ball routine, releases the ball and resets the game. This only happens occasionally, and not all the time, so the general function seems to be there.
2. My crane drops the ball over the play-field rather than taking it to the left to the intended position. Any idea? The actual movement of the crane seems to be fine. Just won't hold onto the ball.
3. I have read about the play field magnets in the game, which sounds like a lot of fun. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have that feature. Newbie warning....I don't even know where to start looking. Don't know if I even have magnets installed, where do I start looking? Anybody any images of the underside of the play board?
4. I have been looking for a replacement trans-lite. Mine is really faded, but I can't seem to find any anywhere. I know there used to be a guy who sold them on ebay a couple months/years back, but he seems to have gone MIA. Plus, and I know I am weird, I actually like the originally one a lot, so I would love to get that one back.
5. Cabinet. The underside of my cabinet is completely busted based on the machine spending it's lifetime on the outside. The partical board is all swollen up and I am afraid the shaker motor will rip out soon (the guy I bought it from actually had the the motor disconnected for that reason). Any suggestions? I have heard of some wood strengthening paints somewhere, but though I am pretty good once it comes to wood work, I have never seen any. Eventually, the plan is to replace it completely, but for now, I just need some quick temp fix.
6. Decals, any good sources for full exterior cabinet decals?
7. Diagnostic mode. Newbie stupid, I don't even know how to get into it.
8. More play related. How do you get your initials into the highscore when you play? And on top of that, how do you reset the high score.
9. Opening the headboard. I found the cam lock on the top and the bottom piece (with display and speaker can be lifted up a bit), but do you just have to use brutal force to get the trans-lite out? Want to make sure that there aren't any connections or pins I could break off.

Apologies for some questions if they seem to be obvious answers. Again, total newbie here. Love the game though. I have to fight my 5 year old to play it though, he is already mastering most of the shots.

Me again. Cleaned up the gun assembly today. Missile button is working now, but won't light up anymore. Before it was lit, but did not work
Anyhow, today when my kiddo was playing, this piece suddenly popped out somewhere. Looks like some sort of switch trigger, but I can't figure out where it us coming from. Anybody any idea? See attached images.

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Oh, and my drop targets simply stay down, they aren't coming up anymore. Any help would be appreciated.

The micro switch wire form could have come
from the spinner assembly.
Check wires and switch contacts for the
drop target assembly.

100% correct about the spinner assembly. That's where it was. THANK YOU
Found the issue with the drop down as well. Nothing on cable or anything. Actually even measured the Voltage, all good. So in the end I checked the actual drop down assembly and how it connects to the coil. There is a blue plastic connector. It got pushed to far and the coil was simply stuck. A bit messing with that connection and it all works again.
A lot smarted by now .
My magnets do work, they are just very weak ;-(
Found out why the crane dropped. The entire machine wasn't level enough and that caused the ball to role around the pin in the crane (crazy). Expert on diagnostic mode by now as well (got an original manual, pretty sweet).
Still trying to find some help on cabinet work and decals.
As for the highscore, those initials that show up seem to be the factory default?

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Yes! they are the people involved with the
design of the game.

I joined the club today even though I won't have the machine for a week. This will only be my second DMD machine so I'm really looking forward to it! Went through the PBA instructions to get to know the rules.
While I'm waiting I want to do a couple parts orders but I have a couple questions:
What size are the post sleeves? I want to order some red ones with a new ring kit.
Any chance one of you can help me get 1.13? It would be worth getting a Rom burner just for this upgrade but if anyone can burn me one I'd gladly reimburse them.
Thanks a lot!

I recently picked up a LAH with a shot (from damp) cabinet. I had to switch the shaker motor off as the whole bottom was moving! Got new decals from Retro Refurbs here in the UK and used a parted out LW3 cab as a donor.

http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/last-action-hero-pinball-cabinet-decals/

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I just did my retro refurbs this morning, all is good but the front decal was too small. It actually should have been stretched left and right and top and bottom. I have very little adjustment because the dacal was just the size of the cabinet. How was yours?

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Yes I had that problem but supplied them with a drawing with all the correct dimensions on and they sent me a new one. Give Pete a shout and he will get another to you as it is correct now.

Ha, that bottom looks like mine.
Do they ship to the US? I am not sure how to fund a donor, might be easier to simply get a new one from scratch.

Thanks Matt, already sent Pete a note, just waiting to hear back

Ok, so I took a closer look at my cabinet bottom. It's definitely beyond repair, sagging below the sides. Reading through some threads it appears like I'll have to cut some of the coin door to replace it. The bottom part of the groove is broken out over 1/3 as well. Looks like a bigger project that I probably won't tackle before the summer....might be able to find a donor cabinet ny then. Turned off the shaker for now.
Anyhow, looked into the printed decals from the UK, and they seem really glossy. I actually much prefer the original which seems to be either silk screen printed or stenciled. I am thinking about crating a stencil. Does anybody have a decent scan of the original art work? Mine is too faded to be able to pick up on the details.
I am thinking about resetting them in Autocad or Illustrator. Couple good highres photos would probably do as well.
Thanks,

Hey fellas! We're aware of the problem with the LAH coin door and replacements are being sent out to everyone who received the incorrect ones.

If you ordered a set from us and haven't received your replacement please get in touch with me asap!

Pete,
Retro Refurbs

Hey everyone, I am trying to put together a last action and someone cut a connector of the playfield harness. Could someone post a picture of connector j-8 on the ppb. It's in the lowest row of connectors behind the speaker panel. Strangely, the schematic is written for Jurassic park and doesn't give all the same wires.
Any help would be much appreciated

Anybody? Bump

Here you go buddy. Man, I got some catching up to do on this forum...

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Is your shaker motor going? Strange things can occur if the shaker motor is going. Any loose solder on switches will cause a number of odd issues. Try turning off the motor in the settings and see if it still occurs.