Did anyone make it to the TPF and get a chance to play my LAH? The guy from pinball magazine requested to take pictures of it - so my machine might be in the next issue. That would be cool.

I picked up my Last Action Hero almost a month ago now and have been having a blast with it. Lot's of good info in this thread and some interesting upgrades / mods. I've just about finished servicing my machine now. I've posted up a series of blog posts on my site, which cover the work I've done on my LAH. I wanted to share the links for anyone that is interested and may find them as a useful reference in the future. Also those that enjoy seeing machines and their parts disassembled, cleaned and reassembled may enjoy the read too. Lots of photos to look at along the way also.

Here are the direct links:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2016/03/15/last-action-hero-repair-service-log-1/

*Repaired double scoop assembly. Various cabinet presentation things improved. Trough switch issue fixed.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2016/03/20/last-action-hero-repair-service-log-2/

*Serviced some assemblies - Right scoop (single), Ball launch, Ball serve, Slingshots & Knocker.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2016/03/23/last-action-hero-repair-service-log-3/

*Playfield stripped & cleaned. Ripper serviced. Some plastics cleaned. Metal parts tumbled. New rubber. LEDs installed. Started getting playfield back together.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2016/03/25/last-action-hero-repair-service-log-4/

*Ramp disassembled and cleaned. Diverter assembly serviced. Tar pit ball lock serviced. Crane lamp issue fixed. Ball trough serviced. Playfield back together.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2016/03/24/last-action-hero-switch-matrix-issue/

*Switch matrix issue resolved.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2016/03/27/last-action-hero-repair-service-log-5/

*Drop target bank rebuilt.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2016/04/07/last-action-hero-repair-service-log-6/

*Pop bumpers serviced. Remaining globes under playfield switched to LEDs. Broken drop target replaced (New decals printed - used the ones by toyotaboy shown earlier in this thread). CPU and Display ROMs updated. Volume pot issue fixed.

At this point I still need to replaced the globes in the headbox (+topper) with LEDs and need to decide what to do about the DMD. The DMD has some issues when it tries to show darker dots in the animations. In screens like Multiball start, where the whole DMD flashes, everything looks bright and all dots render correctly. In some screens like "Last Action Hero" (where you collect one of the words), the words you have not yet collected appear darker - and these sections do not appear properly (with parts of the word missing. The collected words appear brighter and render correctly). From the research I've done, despite the dots appearing bright and fine in many screens, it's an indication the DMD is dying (I guess they all are - mine is just further along).

Good job, Jesder. Looks like you lucked out on a PF without wear on the movie ticket.

Question on LAH. Mine had the post holding the plastic down near the diverter on the ramp loose for a long time, causing the diverter not to fire properly.

Fixed that and tightened the post down, now ball hangs when going down the right path. Where the plastic ramp meets the metal flap before going down the right ramp.

Anyone have this issue before? I think my game needs new legs and I know it needs a flipper rebuild and hope that will alleviate the situation but was curious if anyone ran into this issue and had any advice.

Also temp storing my games at a friend's house due to a move/have yet to build a game room. Hadn't played LAH in months. I miss it, without any sarcasm I truly think it is one of the best games from the 1990s, regardless of manufactorer. Awesome modes and cheesy music/callouts. Most undervalued game today imo.

Go back one page I had the same issue and got great advice. Haven't had it get stuck since.

Just received my first pin sound board and all I have to say is it's great
Makes LAH a new game

Quick question... I was moving my LAH, laid the head done and realized I didn't the two large bolts that go from the head to the body.
I know it's a little over kill (the swing lock is fine) but I would feel a better having them in.
What size are those bolts????

Thanks,

MM

OUT

Same size as leg bolts

Is there a site I can purchase the latest code for LAH? My game is ready for some new rules

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https://sites.google.com/site/lahpinballmod/home

That looks really cool! 1st time I've heard of that. But it looks like you have to burn the ROM yourself.

Did you get that LAH from Randy?

LAH is my first pin!! I am new to the hobby and just picked up this beautiful machine last week. I feel like I really lucked-out because LAH is gaining popularity as more people realize its a sleeper! The machine is in pretty good shape overall and plays well. As a watchmaker I have experience with complicated mechanical things but have little experience with electrical diagnostics. I have started exploring the diagnostic and adjustment menus in depth and here are all the problems I have found with the machine thus far:

-8 dead lamps - What is the preferred source for lamps/bulbs?

-3 bad coils - Ramp diverter, knocker and GI relay. The ramp diverter and knocker seem dead and failed the coil tests in the diagnostic menu. The GI relay coil might also be bad; the GI lamps by the flippers are out and nothing happened during the coil test.

-2 potential bad switches- Trough #7 right, which is apparently notorious for causing ball search after multiball. My machine has this issue and the switch might need to be replaced or adjusted, according to the forums. Middle scoop right, which may or may not be bad. It failed the switch test but seems to work (sometimes) in play.

-Missing the post w/rubber above the left outlane. This is causing lots of left outlane drains. Whats a good source for posts and similar hardware?

-Attract mode music cuts off with an audible "click" shortly after powering on the machine. Menu item is set to "on" for Attract mode.

-Hum / buzz from speakers. You had mentioned earlier that capacitors might be going bad. Great Plains has capacitor kits for Stern/Bally, Williams, and Gottlieb but I did not see one for Data East. Any suggestions?

Also, I am very nervous to raise the playfield (even though I probably shouldn't be.) I have not seen any videos online about raising a Data East playfield. Will i be able to raise it to full vertical? Does it lock into place and will there be stops or clicks to let me know when it is locked in place? I have been reading horror stories about dropping the playfield into the cabinet.

The game plays great even with all the above stuff. Id just like to get it as close to perfect as possible. I went ahead and splurged on the alternate translite, I will share a pic as soon as i get it!

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No sir

Sent you a helpful PM

Hmmmm... Ironically enough, LAH is my first pin as well. About the ball search, does it happen after the multiball ends? I've got an issue on mine, haven't really dug in to it, but it happens whenever multiball starts.

I don't beleive it actually goes into ball search, but it hesitates. You can shoot the left scoop to start multi, after which I'm suspecting should immediatly autopluge another ball into play. Mine will, but it seems to take it a good 4-5 seconds before it actually plunges. Haven't dug into it yet, heck, mine is still shrink wrapped up in the bonus room from our recent house move.

Mine hesitates when starting multiball as well, but I considered it normal and never thought about it. Until now!

I just received the alternate translite and was curious about the image quality. The image has a reddish hue overall, and appears to have digital artifacts or pixelation. For example, take a look at the shadow in Arnold's bicep. If you have one, please compare and let me know if yours has the same traits. I need to know if I am being too picky, it was not cheap. reddish hue overall2016-07-05_10.32.36_(resized).jpgartifacts bicep shadowartifacts cheek

There is a set of used LAH Plastics on ebay. I really need the "admit one" plastics in the set. Anyone need other plastics out of the set? I'd love to split the set with someone. I cant spend $110 on two used plastics.
Just thought I'd throw it out there.

The translite looks good installed on the game. I don't notice the digital artifacts/pixelation from playing position so I am happy. There are more available on the Pinside market if anyone else needs one.

2016-07-05_22.38.59_(resized).jpg

Here's mine. Love it in the game

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Its just a scanned a modded version of the nes manual I think, so pixels are expected since it wasn't hand drawn

Here's my LAH on location with 1.13 software!

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Come on guys, LAH needs more votes! Lol..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poll-baywatch-last-action-hero-flintstones

I make metal pinball cards and just added them to the LAH I just picked up this past weekend and I think they look great.. check it out!

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A ball gets stuck on the ramp behind the crane almost every single game. I think the gate switch might be a little stiff, combined with a dirty ramp might be causing the issue. Anyone else experienced this?

Last Action Hero cabinet decals:

http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/last-action-hero-pinball-cabinet-decals/

1. Check the switch like you suggested.
2. Clean the ramp and balls
3. Make sure the ramp is installed correctly. (properly angled and nothing is causing an unnecessary hill)
4. Is your game angled high enough? (Increase the back legs height)
5. Is your ramp slowing the ball due to warping ramp? (squeezing the ball)
6. Is your game leveled on the "X" axis? (download the pinball leveler app on your mobile device to check your level from left and right)

Try these suggestions and let us know what your results are.

What color is the LAH start button supposed to be? In most pics I see a yellow button with "start" in a slanted font. The manual has it listed as 180-0028-00 and this comes up as a red button with a bullseye on all the regular parts sites. Will either fit? Anyone know where to find the yellow start button? I like it better. Im working on a rough LAH I bought without the start button, among other things.

Also, still looking for the impossible to find L/R inlane "ADMIT ONE" plastics.

Just drove 7 hours one-way to join the club. So much stuff to do in this game!

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I just played a game where I was in the middle of "the roof" mode where you shoot the ramp 3 times for 30 million points. I made one shot and realized I wouldn't have enough time to complete it so used the smart missile with 10 seconds left on the counter. Shouldn't that award me the 30 million points? It didn't. That's how Jurassic Park's smart missile works isn't it? Any active mode is awarded?

It awards one hit to every switch as far as I'm aware. So it awarded one Ramp hit, 2 of the 3 needed for the mode completition. If you'd had 2 hits to the ramp previously it would've finished it?

My LAH isn't at home right now so I can't test myself.

Also just realized that the bearded guy is Tywin Lannister from Game of Thrones.

Does anybody know where to get a replacement gearbox for the crane?

One of the screws came loose that hold on the cam arm causing it to bind and strip the gearbox.

This link is from another thread on Pinside.

http://provider1.cart.net.au/epages/mrpinballtrial.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mrpinballtrial/Products/515-5857-00

That's just a listing. There's none in stock to order.

Ordered some of these. Very impressed!

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Please show us how the cab looks afterwards. My cab is in great shape, but was curious about these.

Can someone please check the transistor used to drive the Shaker motor?
The schematic says Q4, but where is this Q4 located?
On the PPB?
But Q4 on the PPB is already used for the VUK.
Is this Q4 on the shaker board?

I need this info to complete the new Tech Chart for Last Action Hero.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

LAH-shaker_schematic (resized).jpg
LAH-VUK_schematic (resized).jpg

Any Hero's who can help me out?

Isn't there a circuit board located by the shaker motor (mounted on the left side lower inner cabinet? I'll Check mine tomorrow for you but I believe you will find Q4 there.

It's on the shaker motor board. Just like the diagram states.

What did everyone do to replace the vuk for the mission start. I had the cheap circle switch that finally broke. I ordered a new one from pinball life that is used instead of the original. The original is discontinued. But it is really flaky. Doesn't always register. And goes for ball search. Any idea's?

I'm almost done putting my LAH back together but I'm missing the two "admit one" inlane plastics. I've searched to world for them but can't find a set new or used. Does anyone have scans of these plastics? I need to make my own I guess. Pm me if you can help.
Thanks

Thanks for the info.
I added a note to clearify the location of the extra transistor.
Please take a look at the file.
If you see an error please let me know.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Data_East_Last_Action_Hero_Tech_Chart.pdf

Added over 8 years ago: Note: this Tech Chart has been changed/corrected.
The PPB fuses are not all present in this chart.
Please download the correct Tech Chart from my website or email me.

Hello to everyone! I have this pin in non-working conditions (it doesn't boot and cpu leds are off) I have those loose connector in the cabinet on the right side..is there anyone who can post a picture or tell me where they should be linked? maybe it can be helpful to solve the boot problem!

Also i have got only 2 control button on the left (2nd and 3rd starting from left)..the first socket is empty..is it normal for this pinball?

Thank you

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Those do not connect to anything. Not sure what they are for, testing maybe.
There are only 2 menu buttons on lah.

Thanks for your answer! Any advice on the problem? The game boots with the GI only and no Led light up on the CPU..

I've found the Knocker to be driven directly from the CPU.
Also the Knocker uses a brown (32V) wire and not an orange (50V) wire.
That would leave Q2 on the PPB unused.
According to the schematics, the wire to the Shaker Motor is White-Gray.
This would suggest Q2 to be used for the Shaker Motor, not Q4 (which is used by the VUK).
The Brn-Gry wire also supports this asumption.
Can someone please confirm this?