Last action hero replacement ticket order.

I have had some interest lately so if there is enough interest to do a run of 10 then I will run it again. Price would be $30 + $2 shipping. (smaller run, cost is higher)

Send me your info and I'll make a list and when I have 10 orders I will let everyone know in this thread. Thanks, Mike

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-replacement-ticket#post-2723367

Edit: Forgot to mention that price is in USD

I'll post links to what I used. I have LED flipper buttons, LED speaker kit, and cabinet underglow kit working just fine.

http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/?page_id=601

http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/?page_id=396

Note: This method isn't the easiest, but it is the best. You will need to get the correct male/female molex connectors and pins from pinball life or marco. I use to have it rigged to the 12v rail next to the coin door. Wasn't very stable, plus it was tacky the way I had it rigged. This is much more safe and stable.

Someone knows if the Arnold with kid Translite are for sale somewhere?

please pm.

http://pugsotoys.wix.com/pinballalternatives#!translites

This is the site from the guy who sells them, you have to contact him directly via email

[email protected]

I have his TX Sector that I'm going to use as wall art and his LAH in my game and the quality of those 2 is great.
m

How do I check the crane lock coil with my multimeter
The coil doesn't move in gameplay or in coil test

Very doubtful that the coil is bad. Are you talking about the relay that is ON the crane that keeps the ball from rolling out or the solenoid that releases the balls from the multiball lock area?

do you need the mill bulb tool when changing to leds at the LAH? or can you "easily" change all lamps without it?

Hi all,

This was the first pinball I got a few months ago. Extremely dump question - but how do I set this to free play? I have to keep going to the menu and manually adding credits.

Have tried searching online a bit and haven't been able to find a answer yet.

Behind service/coin door next to the shaker motor there is 2 buttons you can toggle with. Depending on whether the green button is clicked in or not depends on whether you go into "Adjustments" or "Diagnostics". When you push the black button you want it to go to "Adjustments". Then just keep pressing the black button til you reach "Free Play" and it will be default set to "NO". You then hit the start button on the machine to change it to "YES". Then you can hit the black button again and it will say "Settings Saved" with the Dekker saying "Slater!!" Then all you have to do is reboot the machine.

No tool needed to change the bulbs, however you gonna need other tools to remove ALL the plastics and ALL the ramps, data east games are a real PITA when it comes to this.

Another question...

i have 4 yellow cables with cable shoes just hanging on the backside of the coin door, i guess they should be to light up the coin input plastics?, but i have no lampholder or light in it at all.. could someone post a picture of theirs and i can see what´s missing. THANX!!

My first game was Jurassic Park. I had to tear the darn thing apart to change the bulbs, because Data East, so I thought that was just the standard way everyone did it. Then I get a RFM, and start tearing it down from the top, only to learn halfway through that it's the easiest pin ever to change pins in. My last pin was LAH, and I changed the inserts to LEDs but honestly gave up on tearing it down to get to the GI, so it's half incandescent, and somehow I'm ok with that. Staples are awful and should never ever be used to hold down lights.

the price difference between a bracketed bulb socket and the stapes ones (at least retail) are night and day difference. It's possible DE/SEGA came across a deal on them. I agree they are a pain in the ass since most people change bulbs (at least GI) from the bottom.

Here you go.

Photo_Nov_01_22_51_48.jpg

Photo_Nov_01_22_50_54.jpg

Photo_Nov_01_22_51_14.jpg

Thanx!!, i´m missing that two black lamp holders.. wonder why someone would take them away.

have to search for two now..

I´m installing the cointaker premium led kit right now and and luckily i haven´t counted the hours i spent so far, some lights are a real sucker to reach to.

and the "manual" was a total joke, only got half of it and that is very strange and with many errors.

Well, some hours more and i´m DONE!

Are you cleaning the undersides of the inserts before changing bulbs? That is a must.

i´m waxing everything on the playfield, but no cleaning of the soldering at the undersides if that´s what you meant? everything glows fine!

Unfortunately I have found cointaker manuals for most games are wrong as well.... just finished my haunted house and was missing alot of the bulbs i needed and had some stuff labeled wrong but on a good side i had about 30 extra bulbs after i was done. So next machine i do will be a little cheaper.

I think he means the plastic inserts on the playfield that led's will light up....they usually get a blackish film of dust from solenoids and such over time. It will make them shine brighter with new led's if cleaned first

Yup, Q tips and alcohol....lots of Q tips.

Everything is Polished to the max!

OK.

Problem!:

after when i changed all lamps to leds, my ball launch won´t work, when i push the handgun button, all lamps flashes four times, the same if i push left flipper button. i think everything else works.

what could be wrong?

prob blew a fuse.

Hopefully the only thing that happened, no multimeter at home and ofcourse no extra fuses

but why would all lamps flash 4 times when triggering the ball?

Made the famous "back to school" magic thing as the soldering station was unpacked for the first time in many years.. F8 was BLOWN! everyone else tested glowed fine with 3V batteries

note: it´s not the F8 fuse shown in the picture...

IMG_3062.JPG

Did that fix your problem?

Don´t know yet, have to get a new fuse, but if i´m lucky that´s it, manual says F7,F8,F9 goes to 50V coils.

it was F8 that caused the auto launch not to work.

Cheers!

Could someone post a picture of the wires going into the back of the start button please - thanks in advance

@ozzyzz Let me guess, You installed leds with the power on? Big no no. It's a good way to blow fuses and chips

Nej!

Never got the power on when i do something with electrisity..

But i might have forgot it if i saw something wrong with one bulb.

Took the powercard out of the backbox cause i was installing the data east power tap at cn6, damn it looks like shit on the backside, can't believe it still works fine. Will buy a new one before something goes bad.

Here you go!

Photo_Nov_09_22_04_55.jpg

Photo_Nov_09_22_05_52.jpg

Photo_Nov_09_22_04_26.jpg

Thanks that just what I needed.

Anyone installed the Flipper Fidelity V3b in their LAH?

wanna know if it´s worth installing..

Never used FF, but i have a 600W external sub that I use for LAH and it makes a hell of a difference. This game has bass going constantly and when the gunshots fire it sounds great!

I installed the pinsound board, with a HD mix, and that makes the very great difference.
I also changed the 2 old speakers, with 2 new (car). it sounds clearer than the old ones.
Finally with the latest game ROM, this game is a keeper.

I am thinking of buying a flipper rebuild kit, then it is never changed since the game was new , do not know if it's worth it ? Flippers works well but they perhaps works even better if I replace them? or should I just replace the 090-5020-30 coils?

i want to make the game feel as new as possible by changing part to part...

cointaker leds are now installed and orange led buttons, looks really great!

any tips are welcome!

If the coils work, don't bother replacing them. You'll see no improvement. If they are nice and strong it's probably just fine to leave everyhting alone. If you decide to rebuild them, when I rebuild I change the coil sleeves, linkage arms, and possible the nylon bushings. Those are the only things that wear out.

IF IT AIN'T BROKE DONT FIX IT!

If your ball can be launched from the flipper to up the ramp with no issues then you have enough power. If you want a faster ball, then raise the back legs up or wax the playfield. I'll try and post some pics of my machine later to give you some thoughts on things you can do with your money. For instance I recommend getting the cliffy protector set. Those two scoops in the center get a lot of 'action'. Also get you a small piece of mylar to protect the PF when the ball exits the dynamite scoop. The area on top left of the movie ticket is a common wear spot on majority of the games i have seen.

OK.... added the thread to my Favorites. Just picked up a LAH at Houston Expo last week; thanks JW!! Fun table, very underrate.
Just order Cliffy's hole and post protectors; it seems to be a must for this game. The play-field is about an 8 out of 10 with little wear. Only signs of wear is the damn holes and the golden ticket.

I see many people adding LED to the table..... has anyone tried the pinballbulbs.com kit?????? It looks amazing!!!
Please chime in..... I know Macro and Coin taker have a kit too.......

Anyway....

MM

OUT

There is an overlay for the ticket. Guy in Canada makes them

We just did a small run. Back by popular demand We have a few left. $30usd + shipping.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-replacement-ticket

Yes... i saw. I should be able to buy next week.

Thank you...

MM

OUT

All my bulbs for this game I bought from cointaker. I was very picky on the colors I chose and style too.

I played LAH with some Back in black and hells bells off my phone, sounded awesome together! Think you could post a video with what you have going right now? Thinking about getting a pinsound board.. Thx

Yep i will post a short vid, of my LAH with the pinsound, very soon.

Awesome!!