I may go the LED OCD route at some point.. Just unsure if it's a LAH thing, or LED issue.. I'll do some bulb swaps to figure it out.. Thanks. (And Yes, I look forward to the 1.13 update.., have an extra chip? Ha.. - FUN machine so far, wow!)

My LAH has non ghosting comets and I experience no ghosting at all.

Are you sure they are the non-ghosting ones?

So, I was in the Super Crane mode and had the multiball going. After a little, I noticed a very loud buzzing. I immediately turned the game off. Looks like one of my magnets is locking on. I removed the fuse and the other two seem to work OK. How does one go about fixing this. I have noticed the area above the playfield getting warm when the magnets are on before but never thought much of it. Thanks!

Hi, guys, new in the club!

Got one with dying display (to make it worse it's german rom and display is almost 100% out when going into adjustments menu, so I had to count clicks against Visual pinmame version to know which adjustment to change to have a 3 ball game instead of a 5 ball) and lot's of not working switches, but

I think it has no cabinet fade
lah2-DSC_8485.jpg
it got no ticket wear, scoops are little battered, but no m-ball insert wear whatsoever
lah1-DSC_8481.jpg
here's the shooter lane, can someone knowledgeable about scrying with shooter lane tell me if this game has been played much or not?
lah3-DSC_8484.jpg

issues I have to attend very immediately:

1. it is absolutely pugnant with tobacco stench, stenching the whole room. I know I can get rid of some of it inside by vacuuming and sodium bicarbonate, but what about exterior? no stencils on the cabinet, it's original, may it be rinsed lightly with sponge and soapy water or anything else?

2. whole lower GI is out, any starting point for looking? upper GI (pops and plastics near captive ball) works

3. danger bar is not resetting CRANE targets. There is no schematic for drop target assembly in the manual, drop targets are working and game resets them at the beginning of each ball. Danger bar can be pulled toward outside (but not smoothly) by hand when targets are down, but it is not moving inward. is there supposed to be some motion of danger bar when hit by ball?

4. left flipper is buzzing when pressed.

5. somebody took out magnet board.

thanks

1. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-odors-from-a-pinball
2. follow the wiring, find the spot the GI stops, there's probably a cut wire
3. I believe the bar isn't connected electrically
4. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-makes-buzzing-sound-when-i-hold-it
"Yes, stern should relate to data east"
5.

http://www.homepin.com/magnet.html

Yes there are two switches behind it. That bar can get bent and effect the way it works and not move enough when hit by the ball to trigger a switch. If you pull the plastic off the top you can see how it works and figure out what's wrong. Mike

Bump

quick questions: I have old rom 1.06 and old display rom 1.02.

1) What is the housing for EPROM for burning 1.13, DIL 28 or PLC 32?

2) Can I just update CPU ROM to 1.13 without updating display ROM?

3) What EPROM and in what housing should I buy to have latest display ROM burned on it?

thanks

Hi all, I've had mine for about 9 months and have a big problem I need help with. Some background, for the last few months the sound wouldn't start until Arnold had stuttered for quite awhile, on top of that the last month I would flip the switch and some lights would come on but it would take several minutes for the DMD and lights to come on and start attract mode. The other day I decide the try and reseat the connectors. I go through that and then when I started a game it would show 00 score and wouldn't kick the ball out to start, it also didn't show the normal animation it was stuck showing 00. Well just now I turn it on and no lights come on, only response is from the crane which moves to one side and then I smell something burning so I turned off and unplugged. My skill set includes soldering and that's about it. Just called my local pinball repair guy and the open-ended pricing is worse than feared. Any ideas or suggestions? I have been looking at getting another pin but my wife is looking at this one going "I told you so"

Sounds like a voltage issue....

Thanks, should I buy a meter and test certain areas or just take it in the shorts and hire someone?

Every pinball owner should have a meter, and you don't necessarily need to buy an expensive fluke. You can buy a pretty nice meter for almost nothing. This is the one I have:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LVFS0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Ronnie is telling you to buy a meter because usually when things start failing like you describe, the voltage is dropping (so you get a weird sometimes works, but not completely), then finally fails. There are voltage regulators in every pinball, and it's basically testing of those components to find out what failed (quite often it's the 5v line going to logic). If you aren't already, I would subscribe to pinball ninja's website ($20 donation, google it). Clay harell has hundreds of videos, everything from mechanical to electrical issues. Even if it's not LAH, the same problem occurs on many other titles, and you're likely to see similar issues to what you see on yours.

I'm all about supporting pinball techs, but it can get REALLY costly and I only use them if I'm absolutely stuck, and I usually wait until a couple of my pins have issues to make it worth it. Truth be told, by the time you pay the $80+ travel fee, and an hour of labor, you can usually just buy a new board and sell the old one off to let someone else fix it for the same price. The other option is to go to a pinball show and bring your board (s) in and let them put it in a test fixture to find issues, at least then you save the travel fee and they'll do a much more thorough job.

Thanks a lot for the advice. I was ready to call the tech but will buy a meter and see if I can dig my way out!

update:

got to clean my LAH a bit this weekend and found out why danger bar didn't budge or work - somebody stuck a cardboard to keep it from firing. seems like they wanted route customers to have an easy game. removed that and now it works like a charm.

So I have a capacitor that appears to be leaking on the power board, any advice on removing it and adding a new one? Where do I put the leads to check the power to confirm +5v? I subscribed to the ninja forum but nothing there I've found with this very basic beginner info. Anything else I should test before powering on?

Thanks,

Hoping maybe some in this thread has seen this issue with LAH. Game works great , most of the time. Sometimes when you start multi ball or super crane, the sound will cut in and out, the crane will stutter/run slow. The sound will continue to cut out after multiball ends and the crane makes it back home. It usually straightens itself out by the end of the game. Happens one out of twenty games maybe..
So, first thing was rebuild PS and all plugs, then installed new Rottendog PS, changed ribbon cables, swapped out sound board and cpu/driver board with other boards from a buddies LAH. No change in behavior at all.
Any ideas? I am pretty good at fixing pins, but this one is driving me nuts.
Thanks!

Hi, can anyone take a picture of the knocker worong? Mine missing and I have bought a new one but I dont know what wires go where.

The pic of the worong you requested..

photo (2).JPG

Thank you!

I just want to thank everyone that made the new 1.13 rom possible. I've had it for about 2 weeks and it certainly takes a great pin and makes it feel so much more polished. I love the new call outs, the refined modes, the better scoring, and the removal of the free multi-ball. I honestly think this machine can go toe to toe with many of the top tier machines.

I took a peak at the rankings today and I couldn't believe this machine slipped into the 120's! Last time I looked, it was somewhere in the 90's. I was expecting the new code to have caused a bit of upward momentum in this title. Oh well, I guess rankings aren't everything. I was just surprised it had slipped about 30 positions since I last looked. LAH is so much better than dozens of the machines ranked higher!

Many don't have access to rom burners, and since it's not an official release nobody can really sell them either (which makes it limited). Perhaps when the latest code starts entering tournaments, it will get it ranked better.

Big shout to Canadiangamer! This fix was verified by me on my LAH, I went through 2 crane changes, multiple switch changes and for the life of me I could not get the crane to cycle back and forth on time to catch/deliver the ball. The power supply bridge rectifier DB1 was the culprit. BTW everything else on my game worked as advertised, no resets, no other issues. It seems that perhaps the power from the bridge was just a bit low and it slowed down the crane enough to take out it out of sync. Thanks CG!

_{Post edited by kvan99}

Would someone be so kind and inform me what type of fuse that's supposed to be in F1 on the shaker board?

I have no way of getting a rom either, and will gladly pay reasonable costs and shipping if someone could make one for me. Pretty please?

I just got the rom today and I tried it out, it makes a very big improvement in the game play and scoring, thanks for your hard work Craig! I will make a donation tonight.

Well as you guys might have guessed, I love LAH (I did the 1.13 mod firmware). In my opinion it is one of, if not THE best data east machines. It seems like this thread might need a bump, so I thought I'd plug my recent product for some of you that might have missed the thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-gi-smoother-for-data-east

This is a PCB / Kit that helps to calm the "seizure multiball" effect when you have LEDs installed in your GI. Very similar to herg's GI OCD, but his does not support Data East; this one does

Official product website:

https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro/

I'm not a big company, just a guy who loves pinball, so these are produced in limited supply; I currently have a small handful of extra kits on hand from the first run. Paypal purchase available at the website, or shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

I don't have access to a ROM burner, if anyone is burning Craig's new ROM and can make an extra let me know.

Can anyone please help me out and show me in a pic or easily explain to me where to insert the new rom when I get it? I'm new to doing anything with boards except pulling a cable out to air dust then reinsert,
Cheers
PChop

http://www.pinballroms.com/documents/installing_eproms_de.html

Just make sure you don't bend any pins, and install it the same way the old one was (notch in same orientation) and you'll be fine.

About to finally install the new rom.
I read the link about installing that was posted.
I Just want to be sure that I install the chip in the ROM 0 socket on the Main board.
I'm new to this and wanted to discount double-check with you guys.
Better to measure twice then cut right.

Thanks for the help
Cheers
PorkChop

CLEARANCE TIME! I have a few of these replacement decals left. We will never be running these again.

Pinsider price $20 + $3 shipping

Here is my ebay page with the details on the ticket

ebay.com link: Last Action Hero Playfield Ticket Decal Replacement Overlay Pinball Mod Upgrade

116.jpg

This seems like a good deal on a LAH. $1350 with leds. Magnet board is not working.
Just thought I'd pass it along.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-last-action-hero-northern-virginia-1550#post-2275644

Hey Mike, I just pm'd you.

The new LAH rom is awesome. Highly reccommend getting it.
Thanks Caker137 for doing this.
Thanks Matt_Rasmussen for helping me get it.
Cheers
PorkChopExpress

hello everybody! i have a problem with LAH. I posted to the regular forum but someone suggested i post it here too. my LAH game is not moving the ball to the lock position with the crane it goes almost all the way but stops short and drops the ball back onto the playfield, then the game launches another ball thinking the first one is locked. the crane goes all the way against the wall other times but for some reason when its going to lock a ball it stops short. can anybody help me with this it would be greatly appreciated