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(Topic ID: 210562)

Laser War's "Lazer Kick" solenoid stuck on :(


By Glowof1000suns

2 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Glowof1000suns
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#1 2 years ago

Hello everyone! I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue. Since yesterday, my Laser War's kickback solenoid has been stuck on. While testing, I've been careful not to let it stay on for too long so it doesn't burn out. I'm by no means an expert, but here's what I've tried so far:

- Checked the rollover switch to make sure it's not in the closed position, which would fire the kickback. I've also verified this by unplugging that row (column?) from the MPU (brand new Rottendog as of a couple of months ago).
- There's a small board under the kickback that houses a relay. I've disconnected the "DRY" (meaning?) connection to ensure there isn't a signal being sent that shouldn't be. However, this board is still being fed power, so my suspicion lies here. The relay switch appears to be working properly.
- Removing the fuse will make the kickback release, so it definitely a power issue and not a gummed up sleeve.
- I've replaced the solenoid with a known good one, but it does the same thing.

The kickback is fed power from the left flipper, which works fine. When this started yesterday, the kickback fired and stayed on for a few seconds. I thought, "huh, that's odd". I think it happened a second time, which I then assumed there was something wrong with the rollover switch. The third time it just stayed on.

Side note: I do have an issue where, if both the left flipper and red pop bumper are engaged at the same time, the game gives a "tilt error" and restarts. This is (I think) due to a fried diode. It's been like that for a while, so I don't think it's part of the same issue, but I figured I'd mention it.

Again, I'm no expert at this stuff; I'm fairly new to the scene. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

Have you checked the drive transistor?

#3 2 years ago

I haven't. Because this is a brand new MPU, I would have to assume (hope!) that those are all fine. How does one go about testing one, though?

#4 2 years ago

Actually, looking at the relay, there appears to be a burn on the left side. Even though the relay makes the clicking sound, maybe it's actually stuck. I'll order a new one anyway (since I need other parts as well), but is there an easy way to verify this is good or bad?

IMAG0747 (resized).jpg

#5 2 years ago

I dont know much about relays, but what type of driver board is it?

#6 2 years ago

Test transistor Q24 on the CPU board. You might want to replace it even if it tests good because it has been stressed. The relay has been stressed also. Those are the two components that drive the kickback coil, should be an easy repair.

#7 2 years ago

Also test the pre driver for Q24. Q16

Quoted from mikat11:Test transistor Q24 on the CPU board. You might want to replace it even if it tests good because it has been stressed. The relay has been stressed also. Those are the two components that drive the kickback coil, should be an easy repair.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from mikat11:

Also test the pre driver for Q24. Q16

I see a diode on the relay board. Test it also. Replacing the capacitor would be a smart move.

1 month later
#9 2 years ago

Just for closure, I figured I'd update this. The issue ended up being the burnt relay switch. I was able to find a replacement 24v, 10a replay from eBay. The pin-out isn't exact, so I had to do a little bit of creative work. Thanks to those that offered ideas!

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