Laser War
Data East, 1987You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mrmikeman.
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Having a non-moving flipper will cause the fuse to blow on these early DE games (Wms sys 11 clone). You have high power voltage going to the coil until the EOS opens(usually fraction of a second), which it can't since the flipper is seized. Replace the coil/sleeve and make sure the EOS opens.
Cheers,
Mike
Quoted from MaxAsh:Display Question
I know on some older displays, reflowing the solder on them can often get them back up and running nicely. Right now I have one display (P2) that's a little jittery and sometimes missing segments. Should I reflow it, or is it more likely to be the common resistors that need replacing (or just a gassing out display)?
Been awhile since I owned a Laser War.. Tough one. Can be a number of things. Probably outgassing. Never heard of having to replace resistors though. Resistors tend to work until they don't(burn out). It wouldn't be an intermittent issue.
If you tap/press on the display does it affect it? If yes then reflowing may help as it would be an indication of an intermittent connection. If not then I'd look somewhere else for the issue. Could also be a bad connection between the display and the MPU.
Quoted from MaxAsh:Various parts arriving soon. Looks like removing the coil has kept the fuse from blowing, so it's likely going to be all set from a flipper perspective once the coil arrives. I'm currently trying to track down why some flashers aren't working. Seems like several along the upper right side of the playfield. Bulbs are good, sockets seem okay. I'll do some digging and check the associated transistors (wow, they are packed close together on this board).
For flashers, if it’s like system11(I can’t remember), then you need to check resistor boards. Big rectangular resistors. They often fail.
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