My Laser War is still in pieces. I bought a NOS ramp and have the Ion Cannon plastic out. I'll try to remember to ask him about the Ion Cannon plastic. I've been trying to ask about making a ramp as the original I have is cracked.

Which side (AC or DC) or should both sides of the bridge rectifiers should be fused?

My Laser War is currently undergoing restoration. It's been in pieces since restoration started on 9/3/2016. It's almost ready to go back together. Waiting on the playfield to cure.

I didn't really notice this either. Had no reason to suspect or investigate but I did figure this out for you. Well ... I hope I figured it out. I have photos to provide evidence.

The wht-red cabinet side wire ends in a 9-pin Molex female receptacle that connects to the playfield. I actually didn't bother tracing the 9-pin Molex male connector on the playfield side because there's no wire there. See the photos following. It seems like this wire is there but serves no purpose (perhaps other than to confuse would-be investigators).

Hope this helps.

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Some Laser War love. Parts above and assemblies below are all clean and have been rebuilt. Still need to fuse the AC side of the bridge rectifiers. Hoping to get it back together in a week or two.

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Wire this like standard switch matrix wiring. Connect the green wire to "NO". Connect the non-banded end of the diode to "NC". Connect the banded end of the diode and the white wire to "C".

It looks like the diode is enclosed in insulation so you probably just want to connect the white wire to "C".

More progress today with hopefully more tonight.

If your coin door lamps do not work then you probably want to check the molex connector at the back of the cabinet. Figuring out what connected to what and the YEL/WHT-YEL wires don't match. Weird. I pulled the YEL wire out of pin #2 and put it in pin #1. Lamps on the door seem to light up. Never noticed they didn't light up before but didn't spend a whole lot of time assessing the machine when I got it.

Passes the "boot test" (power on and check GI, lamp and switch matrix).

Got the basic post infrastructure in place. Not a lot of parts left in the pile to install but it won't be completed tonight. Hoping to complete it tomorrow.

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Some social commitments over the weekend but I got it complete. There's only very minor adjustment required. Plays like a mofo. Flip -> post -> STDM. Flip -> post -> outlane. Don't blink. Don't let the flipper button go. It's insanely fast.

Will be going to the Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show if anyone wants to play it.

Still need to figure out how to get a headphone jack wired in. That's pretty much all that remains.

The warming resistors for Mars Red, Mars Yellow and Mars Blue were disconnected (LEDs installed).

Both of the rectifiers in the backbox are now fused. Just need to zip tie the wires together. Completely non-invasive modification (can be 100% reversed) if desired. Although why would you?!?!

Both under and above the playfield is completed. The photo shows it just slightly before completion but the glass is off so it looks crisper.

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GI is AC. That measurement technique is for DC. I honestly do not think that will work but I could be wrong.

Laser War does not use the Deger flipper board (TYFFASI).

• You can use a standard FL-11630. This is a parallel wound solenoid. It has TWO diodes on it.
• The solenoid shown above is a serial solenoid. It has ONE diode on it.

Reference: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/2#post-453690

You could also post an image of what you have. It is far easier for you to post what you have than to ask someone to open up their machine, take an image of what they have and then post that. If you spend your time (do the heavy lifting by taking and posting an image), you're more likely to get resolution to your problem than asking someone else to spend their time.

You should be aware that parallel and serial wound flipper solenoids will have different wiring requirements. This is why "copying someone else's image" is NOT a good idea. Understanding is better than copying.

I totally get that. This forum is full of people that will offer you unsolicited opinions on your soldering skills. I don't care about how a joint looks (unless it is cold or cracked). I only care that electrical points are connected correctly. It might be cosmetically perfect but if it doesn't function then there's no beauty in that. Of course, you don't know that about me.

The labeling on those flipper solenoids suggest they are serial wound solenoids. I would like to see the wires (windings) as they connect to the lugs. Can you post an image showing the diodes and the lugs with the enamel coating of the wires visible?

EDIT: No need for additional images. I went back and looked more closely. I can see it now. Next post will contain information.

Your wiring is incorrect on the LEFT side.

The right side BLU-YEL wire is attached to the "right" lug (banded end of the right diode). This forces the current through the power winding (thick wire) to the "center" lug. When it reaches the center lug the current is shorted through the EOS (as it is closed), bypassing the hold winding (thin wire). When the flipper bat energizes to the point that the red nipple opens the EOS, this interrupts the short path and forces the current through the hold winding to the BLU-VIO wire attached to the "left" lug.

The left side GRY-YEL wire is attached to the "center" lug. The current flows through the diode (non-banded to banded), through the first BLU wire to the EOS, through the EOS to the second BLU wire, through the second BLU wire to the "left" lug, through the BLU-GRY wire to GND. That's a short. It will blow the fuse EVERY TIME.

• Move the GRY-YEL wire from the "center" lug to the "right" lug.
• Move the BLU wire attached to the "right" lug and attach it to the "center lug".

This should make the wiring match the right flipper solenoid wiring.

The mysterious BLK wire. Where does that attach to? I don't think this should be attached to the flipper solenoid.

I thought you had wired it incorrectly and was suspicious of the EOS connections but it won't make a difference. Then I realize that I missed something. The (right) diode is shorted. When you wired it incorrectly and provided a path to ground, current flowed straight through the diode. A LOT of current. That diode is a 1N4004 and rated to 1A. You almost certainly put more than through the diode since you blew the fuse. That diode is toast. You can confirm this by measuring the resistance between the center and right lug. It should be ~3-4 Ohms but I bet it reads 0 Ohms. Measure the right side solenoid for comparison.

Remove the diode and replace it. You can cut it out and put a new one (pay attention to the orientation - banded end) between the two lugs temporarily if you want to test it. You must remove the diode. You cannot just put another diode in because that old diode is still internally shorted.

Also, that BLK wire should be connected the right lug of the right flipper solenoid according to the wiring diagram. Where it is currently located is incorrect. Either attach it to the same lug as GRY-YEL or the same lug as BLU-YEL.

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Glad to have been able to help. Please remember that this forum works by "paying it forward". If you are able to help someone in the future then please help them.

One other thing I hope you (and others reading) learned is that posting images of what you have rather than asking someone for images of what they have will often result in a faster resolution.