Laser War Club


By joetechbob

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 months ago by themacguru
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There are 229 posts in topic. You are on page 4 of 5.
#151 8 months ago

30 years!

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#152 8 months ago
Quoted from frankmac:

I would love to have that topper!

Yeah, it's been very difficult to obtain. I've been hunting it for over a year now, and usually check around at least once a week. I have not seen an Ion Cannon plastic anywhere lately but I'm keeping my eyes open for you.

1 week later
#153 8 months ago

Does anyone know why this coil chart lists laser war as having an upper flipper? http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb62.pdf

Probably just a misprint.

#154 8 months ago
Quoted from supermoot:

Does anyone know why this coil chart lists laser war as having an upper flipper? http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb62.pdf
Probably just a misprint.

Interesting. Not familiar with Secret Service, so was thinking that maybe it had one and they just mis-printed, but according to that chart, JP was the first one to have one. So that's a pretty odd missprint. The only other coils above the flippers and slings are the pop-bumpers and eject holes. Maybe they're considering those?

#155 7 months ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Yeah, it's been very difficult to obtain. I've been hunting it for over a year now, and usually check around at least once a week. I have not seen an Ion Cannon plastic anywhere lately but I'm keeping my eyes open for you.

Thanks!!

1 week later
#156 7 months ago

Does anyone stock the transparent target switch faces? Just the switch faces, so I can rivet on new ones. Marco sells the entire switches, but at $12 that adds up fast. It looks like pbresource is out of stock on their website.

Marco does stock 1" transparent square 3d faces (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8304-16), would those look odd if all 9 (3red/3yellow/3blue) were switched over? might even give me a reason to try vid1900's guide for led targets: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-led-stand-up-targets-for-19-cents

#157 7 months ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

I have not seen an Ion Cannon plastic anywhere lately but I'm keeping my eyes open for you.

If we had enough people, maybe we could get Freeplay40 to make some. His ramps have been looking pretty good. Could even do different colors.

#158 7 months ago
Quoted from e_lectro:

If we had enough people, maybe we could get Freeplay40 to make some. His ramps have been looking pretty good. Could even do different colors.

My Laser War is still in pieces. I bought a NOS ramp and have the Ion Cannon plastic out. I'll try to remember to ask him about the Ion Cannon plastic. I've been trying to ask about making a ramp as the original I have is cracked.

#159 7 months ago

I'd be in for a new ramp too. Freeplay40 makes great stuff.

#160 7 months ago

It would be sweet to have a lower price point chrome replacement ramp because all I can find is the black one and I'd like to keep my original chrome one pristine.

#161 7 months ago

I sold my LW... Had some extra parts I bought the new owner didn't want, will offer them here for what I paid for them.. Full plastic set for $100 shipped, not perfect but clean and not cracked. Ramp is chrome, cracked in lower left entry, has Mylar down to hold it, decent shape, as is $40 shipped.

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#162 7 months ago

ZEN, PM sent.

#163 7 months ago

Anybody know where I can get a set of spinner decals for my Laser War? I need a set for both spinners. Bay Area Amusements has them listed as "out of stock". And has for some time now. Thanks!

#164 7 months ago
Quoted from fmofmpls:

Anybody know where I can get a set of spinner decals for my Laser War? I need a set for both spinners. Bay Area Amusements has them listed as "out of stock". And has for some time now. Thanks!

The only place I know of right now: http://www.tntamusements.com/inventory/pinball-ramps/

#165 7 months ago
Quoted from e_lectro:

The only place I know of right now: http://www.tntamusements.com/inventory/pinball-ramps/

Thank you! I'm on it.

#166 7 months ago

I'd like to join the club still if anyone has any leads on this game? Near Philly.

#167 7 months ago

My left flipper decided it had enough tonight when the link broke. Guess I'll have to add that to the shopping list.

I talked to Freeplay40, he does not think there is enough demand to make new replacement ramps or ion cannons.

#168 7 months ago
Quoted from e_lectro:

My left flipper decided it had enough tonight when the link broke. Guess I'll have to add that to the shopping list.
I talked to Freeplay40, he does not think there is enough demand to make new replacement ramps or ion cannons.

I would buy a chrome ramp, Ion cannon and a original topper or replica anytime...

#169 7 months ago

The ion cannon would be the easiest for a hobbiest to make. Similar to the people that have made replicas for Space Shuttle and Space Station machines. They don't have to take a beating from balls and can be thinner plastic.

I'd like any ramp. Was thinking clear with decals and paint under. Something to match the metal plate graphics.

#170 7 months ago
Quoted from e_lectro:

I talked to Freeplay40, he does not think there is enough demand to make new replacement ramps or ion cannons.

Boy, I'd sure like a replacement part for my ion cannon. Mine is broken. It would be a very easy part to cast. The problem is it would have to be thin and yet strong. Thin so the lights still emit from underneath, and yet strong to withstand ball attacks. Anything would be better than the original vacuform part.

3 weeks later
#171 6 months ago

Been thinking about ramps more.

With Freeplay40 already booked with a ton of other ramps, what does anyone think of a metal ramp like Metallica has? Bottom and sides could be lasercut metal, then plastic used for the flat top areas where the ion canon and flash lamps sit. Once made, the metal could be laser etched, powder coated, chromed, etc.

#172 6 months ago

Been thinking about pulling the trigger on these for a while now. Anyone tried these cushioned targets? Might help prevent some of the ball bounce with Laser War's breakneck speed.

ebay.com link

#173 6 months ago

Give them a shot and give us a review.

I found that several factors that were creating ball problems with my yellow targets.
1: Back supports were bent a little backwards allowing the switch face to move back more.
2: Foam supports were worn out, adding to problem 1.
3: The rivets holding the switch together were worn out and allowing the switches to come out of alignment and move to the sides.
All 3 together allowed the switches to act like catapults and throw the ball around.

The biggest improvement I made was to drill out the rivets holding the switch together and replace them with 6-32 screws and locknuts. I also had to drill the holes in the switch backplate slightly larger to fit the screws. But this allowed me to straighten the backplate and realign all the pieces of the switch without unsoldering anything. So far they are holding up well.

The red and yellow plastic switch faces on mine are cracked and I'll have to replace them soon. When I do, I'm going to try out the newer Stern anti-loft backplates. If they fit in the playfield slot ok, then that should stop backplate bending problems. I've also been looking at the Stern "switch splints" mod to keep the switches aligned if the bolts and locknuts are not enough.

#174 6 months ago

On the flipper power supply, does anyone know what this white/red wire on CN2 pin-7 connects to? CN2 pin-7,8,9 are all connected together and go to ground, but the schematic only shows the black wire on pin-9. I tried to trace it, but lost it as it went into the lower cabinet. I'd have to pull the playfield out to follow it better.

I only noticed it when the 5A flipper fuse started blowing and I was trying to isolate the problem. Turns out the problem is on the board, probably the bridge rectifier. Fuse blows as soon as game turns on even with CN2 and CN3 removed.

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#175 6 months ago

Strange, it doesn't show the white-red wire in this position in the schematics....
Is there a 24V motor somewhere in this game?

#176 6 months ago

Nope, no motors or anything. I'll trace it better next time I pull the playfield, but that may be a very long time away.

#177 6 months ago

Question - when the ball hits the red pop bumper, is the red base flasher suppose to flash too at the same time? It does on my machine. Is so, that's kinda strange as the blue pop bumper doesn't trigger the blue flasher. And yellow pop bumper doesn't trigger yellow flasher.

UPDATE- upon watching YouTube vids of LaserWar, I now see that pop bumpers and corresponding colored base flashers are supposed to flash in unison. Only my red bumper and flasher are working together. Hmmmm. Seems like I have a lose wire somewhere? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

#178 6 months ago

Do the Yellow and Blue flashers work other times?

If not:
The problem is more related to the blubs/sockets/etc than the pop bumpers.

If so:
I'm assuming that the Yellow and Blue pop bumpers are functioning and kicking the ball around, but are they also scoring? There are 2 switches for each bumper, one to activate the kick, the other to score and "maybe" tell the bulbs to flash. I'm not sure on that last part without digging into the manual. But it is easy to check... slide down the glass, start a game, trigger them with your finger or something, watch the display to see if they score. If they don't, raise the playfield and check the switches. If they look ok, check the wiring and cpu for damage.

#179 6 months ago

Thank you e_lectro! Your information was exactly what was needed! I wasn't aware of the bumper configuration with the two switches. Indeed the second switches are the culprit. I got one of them to work and will continue with the others tomorrow. So very grateful for your shared insight! Thanks again!

#180 6 months ago

It's always nice when the fixes are simple

Speaking of pop bumpers...

If the bulb sockets get flakey and blink when hit, don't try and upgrade them to the wedge style. The pop bumpers are too short for the taller sockets. I ended up copying what I found on the "01/16" entry on this Xenon page: http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/xenon/repair/repair.html

#181 6 months ago

Ok. I managed to get the yellow pop bumper to score points by adjusting the gap with the second switch. The blue bumper still refuses to score points (and make sounds). It does however kick the ball around. Could my problem be in one of the resistors or transistors? Might be getting in unfamiliar territioty with my repair skills. Not sure what direction to turn next? Something in the CPU?

#182 6 months ago

If you don't know how to troubleshoot a switch problem you should probably find someone who does. Here is too much info on pinwiki! http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega

Go down to switch issues and take a gander.

#183 6 months ago

I don't know your tech level, so I'm not sure where to point you from here. That wiki is a great thing to read and study. Might also want to search for vid1900's guide on pop bumpers, expecially the part on testing/cleaning/adjusting the switches.

If you know all of that stuff already, we can talk about checking the board. Just don't want to tell you to start jumpering pins or shorting transistors and end up costing you a big repair bill. I can get anxious doing that with my own machines.

#184 6 months ago

I am proud and excited owner of a very dirty Laser War. This is my first pin so I am working my way through as a project to get a better understanding how everything works. I discovered what I believe to be a very large problem. The picture below shows my hacked power supply. I guess I am just looking for input as to where I go from here. I planned on recapping the PSU but after seeing this, I am tempted to replace it. Any input would be appreciated.

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#185 6 months ago
Quoted from FNwoz:

I am proud and excited owner of a very dirty Laser War. This is my first pin so I am working my way through as a project to get a better understanding how everything works. I discovered what I believe to be a very large problem. The picture below shows my hacked power supply. I guess I am just looking for input as to where I go from here. I planned on recapping the PSU but after seeing this, I am tempted to replace it. Any input would be appreciated.

Yikes!

Looks like someone bypassed part of the P.S. to off the board? Or maybe I'm seeing this wrong.

If you are going to replace the board, make sure to wire back in the new connectors properly obviously.

A good place to start here would be to let people know your technical/electronics experience level. If this is your first pinball and you do not have any electronics experience, make sure to research and be certain what you are doing first.

It is much easier for other people to help if they know your current skill level first. If it is very high, dont be offened by people asking...likewise, if it is not so high yet, don't be discouraged or embarresed; gotta start somewhere....and there are plenty of people on here always willing to offer any advice they can.

#186 6 months ago

Yikes is right!

CN8 and CN9 are both about GI lamps. CN9 is power in from the transformer. Two of the CN9 wires pass straight through to CN8, the other 2 pass through the relay above CN8. That relay is controlled by the CPU via the wires on CN7 to control/flash the GI lighting.

Someone cut the wires and stopped the GI lighting power from passing through the power board. If they did it right, the GI lighting probably will still work, but it will always be on and not have the GI lights flash or turn off when they are supposed to. Personally, that kinda sucks, the light show is one of the cooler features of the game.

It looks like there was a big heat buildup between CN8 and the relay. The board looks darker there and CN8 looks burnt and broken. My guess is that something shorted, the relay went bad, or the solenoid transistor controlling the relay went bad. It was probably faster/easier to keep the game running and making money by splicing the wires vs sending the power supply and/or cpu board out for repair.

Take a visual inspection of the transistors on the cpu board for connector CN12. Depending on how they look it might point you to where the problem might be.

Either way, you are looking at some repair work. If you keep that power supply; the relay might need to be replaced, CN9 wires will need to be re-soldered, CN8 connector will need to be rebuilt. If you buy a replacement; CN9/CN8 connectors will still need to be redone.

If you are a technical person who likes to solder: Get a copy of the schematics, start tracing the problems, and make your repairs.
If you are technical and don't like to solder on boards: Get a copy of the schematics, trace the problems, then decide to replace the board(s) or send out for repair.
If you are not technical and cannot or do not want to solder: Make notes of the problems you can see or test, then talk to a repair guy about the costs to send out the boards for repair. Or look up the costs for replacing the boards.

I'm somewhere between the first two. I'm very technical, like the tracing and testing, and don't mind some board soldering. But if it gets to the point of where there is a lot of work to be done I'll send it out or buy a replacement. Plus with little kids and lots of other projects I have to budget my time.

#187 6 months ago

Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated! I'm hungry to learn, but I respect the machine and recognize my limitations. I'm slowly learning with much research and precious advice from Pinside members like yourselves.

Speaking of wonky power supply boards. I took a close look at mine and was surprised to see some similar issues as FNwoz. It appears somebody had done some of their own handiwork on my PS board. Some wires and have been directly soldered into traces. And CN8 has also been "Jerry rigged" to work with no connector. Nonetheless, my machine is working just fine with no abnormalities other than the scoring switch not working on the blue pop bumper.

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#188 6 months ago

Wow, there is a lot going on in that picture.

CN1: Has one of the wires spliced to a jumper that is directly soldered to the board. Is that speaker wire?
CN2: The entire connector is gone, the wires are attached to the screw terminal next to CN2. Not even with a crimped on terminal connection.
CN7: Is gone and appears to be replaced by 4 orange wires soldered to the board. I see two connected on top, I suspect the two that disappear under the board are connected to the relay. Those wires are wire nutted to the GI leads.

If the solder connections are good, I would consider leaving most of it alone for now. I don't think many repair techs would work on a board that has that many direct connections made, might want to budget some money for a replacement board and wire connectors for when you need them later.

What I would take a closer look at are...
- The spliced CN1 wire covered by tape. Are those wires making a good solid connection?
- The wire nuts in place of CN7. Are those wires making good connections?
- The CN2 ground wires connected to the screw. This one would worry me the most because they are just tucked under that screw. Who knows when they could come loose. At the very least, I would crimp ring terminals to each of those wires and then put them back under that screw. I know this is not a good repair and would be considered a hack, but at least that would reduce the chances of them slipping out and causing a short somewhere else.

#189 6 months ago
Quoted from e_lectro:

Yikes is right!
CN8 and CN9 are both about GI lamps. CN9 is power in from the transformer. Two of the CN9 wires pass straight through to CN8, the other 2 pass through the relay above CN8. That relay is controlled by the CPU via the wires on CN7 to control/flash the GI lighting.
Someone cut the wires and stopped the GI lighting power from passing through the power board. If they did it right, the GI lighting probably will still work, but it will always be on and not have the GI lights flash or turn off when they are supposed to. Personally, that kinda sucks, the light show is one of the cooler features of the game.
It looks like there was a big heat buildup between CN8 and the relay. The board looks darker there and CN8 looks burnt and broken. My guess is that something shorted, the relay went bad, or the solenoid transistor controlling the relay went bad. It was probably faster/easier to keep the game running and making money by splicing the wires vs sending the power supply and/or cpu board out for repair.
Take a visual inspection of the transistors on the cpu board for connector CN12. Depending on how they look it might point you to where the problem might be.
Either way, you are looking at some repair work. If you keep that power supply; the relay might need to be replaced, CN9 wires will need to be re-soldered, CN8 connector will need to be rebuilt. If you buy a replacement; CN9/CN8 connectors will still need to be redone.
If you are a technical person who likes to solder: Get a copy of the schematics, start tracing the problems, and make your repairs.
If you are technical and don't like to solder on boards: Get a copy of the schematics, trace the problems, then decide to replace the board(s) or send out for repair.
If you are not technical and cannot or do not want to solder: Make notes of the problems you can see or test, then talk to a repair guy about the costs to send out the boards for repair. Or look up the costs for replacing the boards.
I'm somewhere between the first two. I'm very technical, like the tracing and testing, and don't mind some board soldering. But if it gets to the point of where there is a lot of work to be done I'll send it out or buy a replacement. Plus with little kids and lots of other projects I have to budget my time.

Your description of what is going on with that part of thr circuit is exactly what I thought, but wasn't 100% sure I was thinking right...the light show with the music at game end and attract mode flashes are great!

Wow! 2 pins with similar repairs in that corner! I'm guessing it must have been a common problem area (g.I. frequently is for many manufacturers it seems)?

I'm always torn on that do I leave it alone for now if it works, or not conundrum... you want it fixed right of course, but hate to tear into it when it currently works.

#190 6 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

I'm always torn on that do I leave it alone for now if it works, or not conundrum... you want it fixed right of course, but hate to tear into it when it currently works.

That's true for almost any problem, not just pinballs!

I only knew what was going on there because I happened to have the manual still sitting on my desk from working on my flipper power problem.

I'm all for leaving things as they are until I can properly fix them unless they pose a safety risk. Have to prioritize the work, and try to focus on one repair at a time. I've made the mistake of trying to fix too many things at once, end up with new problems... and not know if I found new problems or created them.

#191 6 months ago

Don't forget to add fuses for the bridge rectifiers on the back plate.
Those are factory NOT fused (old Williams mistake).
You can also add my Bridge Board, http://www.inkochnito.nl

I have board specific schematics on my wbesite.
Look in the Data East section at the bottom.

#192 6 months ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Don't forget to add fuses for the bridge rectifiers on the back plate.
Those are factory NOT fused (old Williams mistake).

Which side (AC or DC) or should both sides of the bridge rectifiers should be fused?

#193 6 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Which side (AC or DC) or should both sides of the bridge rectifiers should be fused?

This is from vid1900's "Vid's Guide to Bulletproofing Williams System 3-7": FIREPROOFING SYSTEM 3-11 GAMES (p2)

The wire colors might be different, but the procedure is the same.

#194 6 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Which side (AC or DC) or should both sides of the bridge rectifiers should be fused?

The AC sides are not fused.
If a rectifier goes bad (internal short) it will burn your wires.
Hopefully it will blow the main fuse.......

#195 6 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

I'm always torn on that do I leave it alone for now if it works, or not conundrum... you want it fixed right of course, but hate to tear into it when it currently works.

That's my exact same feelings. My power supply board is clearly patched together, but yet it works .. and has for the past three years I've owned it. I will however heed the great advice here and set my sights on future improvements before bad things start to happen.

#196 6 months ago

Guys thanks so much for the great input @e_lectro @pacmanretro. Crazy to see there are two games with almost the same exact situation. As far as my skill set goes I can do some tracing and fumbling around with my multimeter as well as some soldering. I use to solder mod chips on Xbox's back in the day so I feel pretty good about doing that here. I think my next step is to get a better idea of the PSU board by pulling it out and going through it throughly. I appreciate the mention of the relays as I haven't given those much thought. The good news is I have a friend who can help if I do get in over my skis. I picked up the game for what I believe to be a good price and I am trying to get it dialed in correctly before I even think about plugging it in. Looks like this is the first place to start. I definitely want to have that cool light show haha. On a brighter note, I believe the game came with what was probably a new old stock ramp so I have that going for me.

image (resized).jpg

EDIT
Here is the back of the PSU. I am not really liking what I see with how burnt the CN8 actually is on the back. Between the relays, caps, and now this, I am leaning toward either a used one that I rebuild or a rotten dog. Anyone have any input on the rotten dog? I realize I still need to fix the CN8 connector but that would eliminate my CN 9 wiring issues as well.

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#197 6 months ago

That's post has 2 wows!

Wow, what a nice looking original ramp!

Wow, that's some serious burn damage on that power supply!

Something really went wrong with your GI circuits. That's a good of example of why you also need to make sure the correct fuses are installed. If the right fuse blows, don't just grab a random fuse because it is handy. It also looks like two transistors and two big resistors were replaced in the past. You can see the flux from the solder still on the board.

The nice thing about this power supply is that it is a duplicate of a Williams power supply, so the replacement market is bigger. Marco has the Rottendog version and they even list out all the other model numbers you can search for. Another 3rd party option is the Gulf Pinball board.... ksarcade.net sells them or you can buy them on ebay straight from the maker. ebay.com link

I have not used either product, so don't take that as an endorsement from me.

#198 6 months ago
Quoted from e_lectro:

On the flipper power supply, does anyone know what this white/red wire on CN2 pin-7 connects to? CN2 pin-7,8,9 are all connected together and go to ground, but the schematic only shows the black wire on pin-9. I tried to trace it, but lost it as it went into the lower cabinet. I'd have to pull the playfield out to follow it better.

My Laser War is currently undergoing restoration. It's been in pieces since restoration started on 9/3/2016. It's almost ready to go back together. Waiting on the playfield to cure.

I didn't really notice this either. Had no reason to suspect or investigate but I did figure this out for you. Well ... I hope I figured it out. I have photos to provide evidence.

The wht-red cabinet side wire ends in a 9-pin Molex female receptacle that connects to the playfield. I actually didn't bother tracing the 9-pin Molex male connector on the playfield side because there's no wire there. See the photos following. It seems like this wire is there but serves no purpose (perhaps other than to confuse would-be investigators).

Hope this helps.

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#199 6 months ago

Tonight all three of my lamps in the WAR lanes (top of the play field) went out. They went off and on intermittently for a short while and now have just gone dark. I checked the bulbs and they're all good. Any ideas as to where to begin? Could it be a bad fuse? Loose wire on the power supply board? If it isn't one thing, its another.

#200 6 months ago
Quoted from fmofmpls:

Tonight all three of my lamps in the WAR lanes (top of the play field) went out. They went off and on intermittently for a short while and now have just gone dark. I checked the bulbs and they're all good. Any ideas as to where to begin? Could it be a bad fuse? Loose wire on the power supply board? If it isn't one thing, its another.

Are you talking about the ones lighting up the Red/Yellow/Blue W/A/R inserts, or the ones between the lanes under the yellow lane guides?

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