Hello and welcome! I recently picked up a Laser Cue machine based on one picture and the description "Lights work and flippers work. Ball won't eject, unable to play" so pretty much going in blind. I should mention, this is my first pinball machine that wasn't purchased from a dealer and I couldn't have been more excited to finally work on a machine myself!

Round 1:
I got the machine to my house and immediately plugged it in and tried running a game.... Whomp, whomp, whomp. The game goes into the dreaded 'audit mode'. I open the the box and behold(!) a leaky battery with corrosion going down the driver board. I was able to start a game by cycling through the diagnostics. My displays are 100% working and I am getting sound as well, but I have never played the game so I'm not sure if the sound is right.

So when I start the game, as mentioned in the brief description I received, the ball does not shoot out of the outhole! Not only that, but the pop bumpers, drop targets, and slingshot are all dead with no action what-so-ever. I believe the bell is also dead but I'm not 100% sure. However, all the flippers DO work.

Start of repairs:
I replaced the battery pack with NVRAM, replaced the capacitors on the power supply, and replaced all the fuses.

Round 2:
I turn on the machine and it now start in attract mode and I also notice general improvement to the lights on the play field. (Win!) When I go to start the first game, one pop bumper went off and then I get a fuse blown. One drop target reset as well during this. Outhole, pop bumpers, drop targets, and slingshot are all still dead. This is where I am currently and could use some help diagnosing what the issue is!

Thanks for all the input everyone! So far this is where I have ended up.

I replaced 40 pin connector, capacitors on the power supply, and diodes on all of the solenoids.

I tested all of the solenoids and the only one I get a weird reading is on the bell solenoid @ 16.5 Ohms.

These are the current issues:

Problem 1) When adding connector 2J11 to the driver board, fuse F2 blows.

Problem 2) When adding connector 2J9 to the drive boards, GI lights turn on with machine but then go out. (new problem)

Problem 3) With connectors 2J10, 2J12, 2J13 in the driver board, the right pop bumper is freaking out a bit. It is firing occasionally on its own and doesn't trigger normally.

These are the next steps I have:

Problem 1) Remove solenoids 1-by-1 to determine the exact solenoid where it is failing. I am also going to replace the transistors on the driver board.

Problem 2) Totally lost on the GI lights going out.

Problem 3) I haven't tried looking at this. There was a bit of corrosion where the special solenoid transistors and such are so I am going to replace the components to clean it up and see if that helps.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions!

Problem 1) I removed the solenoids 1-by-1 but the fuse only stopped when I cut out the last one! I am going to make sure the last solenoid wasn't the issue but since all the solenoids are looking good, and the diodes have been replaced I am starting to think that the problem lies elsewhere.

Problem 2) This stopped so I am going to not worry about this.

Problem 3) I believe this is a blown transistor on the driver board or another issue with the board. the other two pop bumpers trigger and fire correctly however the one that isn't working won't trigger and will half-pop occasionally. You can hear a "build up" of some sort before it pops.

I have transistors coming and will be replacing transistors and resistors on the driver board hopefully this weekend. I am also going to do a comprehensive test on the power supply to ensure all the correct readings. And then all my problems will be solved and I can play the game! (probably not)

I actually tested the bridge rectifiers yesterday and 6BR1 wasn't showing anything so I think I am going to get inkochnito's bridge board. You wouldn't by any chance have a photo of one installed?

Okay, so it's been a while but I do have some different issues now.

Since the last post, i have rebuilt the drop targets. Removed, cleaned, and replaced all transistors on the driver board, replaced the bridge rectifiers with a new board and replaced the power supply with a new xpin board.

I was actually able to have a night where the game played and operated correctly other than some lamps being out and the right flipper not changing the top lanes.

I recently opened the game up to clean the right flipper assembly because it was sticking and to fix a drop target spring.

I go to play a game to test and out of nowhere the outhole and left kicker solenoids wont fire.

I have no idea why they would all of sudden stop working or where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Nope, they do not fire in the coil test

Neither does the bell, but given that isn't gameplay necessary I'm less worried about that.

I got everything working, it was weird that wasnt connected just as frunch suggested. The game worked for probably 20 or so plays but now it will start to tilt on every ball. I even set the number of tilts to 99 so you will play for a minute or to and the game tilts. Anyone have any idea why it would do this?

So I did as you suggested and the 'Ball Roll Tilt' switch was going off. I reseated 2J3 and it went away. However, when playing the game was still tilting. After some testing, it appears as though whenever the Spinner is activated, it also activates a tilt. I just removed the spinner switch mech so the game could be played and it has not been tilting at all. So that's new.

Figured out the problem on the spinner, there was a ground wire that was touching one of the screws for the spinner, so whenever the spinner activated it caused a tilt. Just moved the ground wire off of the screw and it is working just fine now!