(Topic ID: 207099)

Laser Cue fried a flipper. Troubleshooting help, please.

By cottonm4

6 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by henrydwh
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 6 years ago

I recently got a Williams Laser Cue. While playing a spirited game the left flipper coil fried and I will need to replace it. I'm still learning how to troubleshoot my Sterns/Bally issues. When I fried a flipper on one of my Sterns it was a case of replacing a transistor on the SDU.

I don't know anything about Williams, yet. I figured I would go and replace a transistor as I did in my Stern pin. That is not the case with the Laser Cue which has a separate board for the flippers.

I am going to have to get busy and learn to trouble shoot is problem but I was hoping someone could give me the quick-start info. on why this flipper got so hot it would fry an egg and what I need to fix before I just solder in a replacement coil.

Thanks in advance.

#3 6 years ago

It's pretty much just a mechanical issue at the flipper mech or a bad flipper coil itself.

With the EOS switch open there should not be a direct short between any of the coil lugs. If there is, the coil or one of the diodes is bad.

The transistor in Bally/Stern/Williams is only used for the flipper relay. If this goes bad open, both flippers won't work at all. If it goes bad shorted, both flippers will work just fine, but will continue to work in tilt and attract mode. It won't cause just one flipper to fry or stop working.

I've seen flipper coils burn up because the tip of the EOS switch broke off and the flipper pawl had no means of opening the switch when the flipper was activated. One ball cradle later and that coil is smoked. As long as the mech can open the switch you should be fine.

1 week later
#4 6 years ago

OK. I replaced the flipper coil. All 4 flippers are working. But before I got to that point, like a fool I wired up my replacement flipper backwards and blew two fuses before I figured out what I did wrong.

Now, after replacing the flipper coil I cannot get a game started.

Before my flipper coil went bad the pin was playing quite well. This is a Williams and it has this quirk that you have to turn the on-off switch
on-off-on in rapid succession to the pin to start a game. I was doing that on-off dance and had no problems getting a game going. Now, after I replaced the flipper and fried two fuses in the process I cannot start a game.

I was advise buy the guy who sold this pin to me about the issue if having to flip the on-off switch twice to start a game. and the other day I stumbled into this switch thing in something I read. I cab't find that article now.

So, here I am again being sort of stumped. It was working and now it is not. If someone get get me going in the right trouble-shooting direction it will be much appreciated.

Did my wiring the coil up backwards and blowing fuses cause this no-start problem I have? I have done no other work to the pin. All I did was replace the flipper coil.

THanks.

#5 6 years ago

So when you power up does it come up in audit mode?

71a-wfaolnlfblzw (resized).jpeg71a-wfaolnlfblzw (resized).jpeg

If so you need new batteries or battery holder. Worst case you need new CMOS RAM. When you get it to boot are you able to add credits?

I've never seen the problem you have caused by a shorted coil, but I won't say it couldn't happen either.

#6 6 years ago

Yes. It comes up in audit mode as in your pic.

I just installed new batteries this evening. No change. I will allow that the holder might be bad it seemed to check out with the volt meter.

I cannot add credits. Or anything else.

Turns on. Flippers work. And I noticed that the pop bumpers worked, as well. So, I get flippers, pop bumpers, and GI lighting.

And now a new problem cropped up. I noticed that one of the pop bumpers was not working. I lifted the play field and manually activated the pops and sure enough one pop was not working. I did my little quick coil test by jumping across from another pop coil that was working. When I activated the working coil the jumpered coil started hitting, too. So, I know the coil is working and I must have a power problem to the jumperd coil except after popping it 3 or 4 times, I lost all of my pops. I don't know where the fuse to the pop bumpers on this pin are at so I am scratching my head.

I am going to go to pinwiki and see what I can find in the way of a troubleshooting guide.

What is this CMOS RAM? That is something I have been passing over during my reading on Data East and Williams pins.

1 month later
#7 6 years ago

New information on my Laser Cue:

My replacement flipper coil fried, as well. And I found out I also had not one but two pop bumper coils that were bad. So I replaced all of the TIP102 transistors and the N4401s. Replaced all three pop coils and another flipper coil. That fixed things up and I was able to get the game up and running. I played quite a few games for the next hour without any issues. However, when I turned the game off and then went to turn it back on it would not start. I tried flipping the on-off switch several times but cannot start a game. I have fresh batteries in the remote battery holder.

I will ad that now that I have had a chance to play it that it is quite fun to play.

I keep getting these error messages in the displays.

I'm going to roll the dice and assume I need to replace IC19 CMOS 5101.

Where is a good place to buy this CMOS 5101 IC? I see them for sale on Ebay. Is one brand better than another? Any thoughts and directions appreciated.

Thanks.

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#8 6 years ago

You are still booting up in audit mood. If your batteries are good, then it is not getting the power to the MPU. Does the battery holder on the MPU or the MPU it's self have any damage from leaking batteries? Mine had lots of acid damage when I got it, ended up sending the board out to be serviced, fixed me right up.

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