(Topic ID: 163894)

SOLVED - Laser Cue flippers not working

By westofrome

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

Just picked up a Laser Cue and set it up. Everything is great except the flippers are not responding to the buttons. They also do not fire in solenoid test. Every other solenoid works fine.

So far I've buzzed out the fuse on the flipper power board (it is good) and reseated all the connectors on the flipper power board. I'm not sure what to try next. The flippers worked fine prior to moving it.

Thanks for any help, can't wait to play...

#2 7 years ago

Set meter to DCVolts, 1-200 range. Power up the game with the playfield on the prop rod. Connect black lead of meter to cabinet ground braid and with red lead probe the lugs of the flipper coils. See any power there?

#3 7 years ago

Nope, no power to the flipper coils. Checked some other coils and got voltage (~33 vdc).

What next? Is there another fuse beside the flipper board one that could be effecting just the flippers?

#4 7 years ago

Hmm...not sure, the online manual doesn't have schematics or wiring diagrams...

#5 7 years ago

Check the fuse on the power supply, also if your handy with a soldering iron, reflow the flipper board. I have a Laser Cue and went through the same problem! Reflowing the flipper board fixed my problem!

#6 7 years ago

Completely desoldered and soldered all headers on the flipper board, checked all fuses on the flipper board, power board, and side of head. All connectors along the chain between transformer and flipper board, and flipper board and playfield, reseated. Still no flipper power.

What's the next step in diagnostics here? Look for a friend's flipper board to swap in? It's got to be something dead simple since they worked fine prior to move?

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#7 7 years ago

Check for voltage on the flipper input on the board, it's the far right connector in your picture. 2 wht-grn wires and 2 wht-orn wires, should read 48vac according to my schematics. If it does, then check your output, far left in your picture, should be 50v, report back your findings. And if I am missing anything, people feel free to point it out!

#8 7 years ago

Thanks - when checking voltage on a connector, i assume it's black to ground but where should I put the red probe - back of board solder pads? Pins of connector?

#9 7 years ago

The connector on the bottom of the board is the ground, 2 black wires. Stick your probe in the top of the connector.

#10 7 years ago

I can't seem to get voltage on the output, so I am going to convert IDC to molex. The two wires are doubled over into four connectors. Do I just turn this into two inputs when converting to molex, or do I split the strands into two connectors?

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#11 7 years ago

Also wonder if a fuse is ever faulty even if it buzzes continuity?

#12 7 years ago

Pull the fuse out when checking. Did you have any voltage on the input? Don't go cutting anything just yet! If you have voltage at the input and no voltage at the output pins then you have a problem on the flipper board. Is this what you have found out?

#13 7 years ago

I pulled the fuse on the flipper board and the fuses on the power board when checking, they buzz continuity fine.

I tested the input connector for vac (red probe inserted into the connector ports with wires, black probe into ground connector port for one of the black wires) and got expected voltage. Tried same with the meter in vdc mode for the output connector (plugged into board, probe touching pin through hole in top of plug)/ground connector and got nothing, which is why I was thinking of molex repins. I will try testing the output header pins on the board tomorrow to see if it is making it across the board at least.

Another thing I tried, was testing the lane change switch (right flipper) and the lane did not change after I started up a game, manually lit one lane and hit the right flipper. Does this point to a wiring problem rather than a voltage problem?

#14 7 years ago

Yes, that way we will rule out the flipper board or confirm the flipper board is the problem! Another thing to check is the flipper relay on the MPU, hold your finger on it and see if you feel it click when you boot up the game! Another question is how do you batteries look? Any corrosion? Any damage to the MPU Board? I ask, because these are all things that I dealt with on my Laser Cue. Don't worry, we will get it figured out!

#15 7 years ago

Flipper relay is clicking, batteries off board with no damage.

Tested the output pins this morning and could not get any vdc so it seems like it's somewhere on the board. When I get home tonight I will try to follow the voltage across the back of the board from the input header pads across to the output pins? I may also just track down another flipper board to swap in...thanks for your help!

#16 7 years ago

At least we got it narrowed down to the flipper board! Good luck and your welcome!!!!

#17 7 years ago

I am getting ~50 vac on the back of the board input header pads with the input plugged in - and can also get ~50 vac on the back of the output header pads and some of the solder points along the way - but I cannot get any vdc on the output headers (back pads or front pins).

I confess I don't know what component(s) are supposed to convert AC to DC. What should I check?image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

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#18 7 years ago

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#19 7 years ago

Thanks Cody - bear with me, but if the vdc are not making it to the output pins (I'm still detecting vac there) I should be checking the indicated corner lead of the BR for 50vdc and if not there, replace BR? If I do get 50vdc at that corner, check the caps next?

#20 7 years ago

It looks like you should have (kinda hard to see clearly) 48 VAC on J4 pins 5 OR 6 to pins 8 OR 9. So set meter to 200VAC and measure from pin 5 to pin 8. 48VAC.

Now set the meter to 200VDC. Put black lead on J2 pin 7, 8, or 9. With red lead probe J3 pins 1, 2, 5, and 6. You should see +50 volts on all 4 pins of J3 if jumper W1 is installed. If not, just on pins 1 and 2.

If you have 48VAC from (~) corner to (~) corner of the bridge rectifier, but no DC volts on the (+) corner to ground, you have a bad bridge rectifier.

#21 7 years ago

Thanks Cody. Didn't have much time to work on this during the week, but hitting it again tonight without progress.

1) On the j4 connector I measured vac from pin 5 (red lead) to pin 8 (black lead) and only get about 10vac. Tried other combos (5 to 9, 6 to 8 etc) and got the same. (previously I had measured from individual connector pins to the ground braid and got 50vac on 8 and 9 but only 14vac from 5 and 6, fwiw).

2) I dropped in a new Kohout flipper power board with an LED indicator. The indicator does not light. The (new) fuse tests fine. So this at least eliminates the board as the issue, probably.

So if the voltage is too low coming into the board, what do I do about that? those wires seem to descend behind the transformer grill, do I remove that to investigate?

Thanks for your help!!

#22 7 years ago

Disconnect J4 and probe the connector pins inside the housing.

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I can't make out the AC voltage that's supposed to be there, but you should see whatever VAC is printed there. Do you?

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Disconnect J4 and probe the connector pins inside the housing.

I can't make out the AC voltage that's supposed to be there, but you should see whatever VAC is printed there. Do you?

It's listed as 48Vrms on my schematics.

#24 7 years ago

Yup, 48vrms.

The readings I gave above are with j4 disconnected and probing the pins in the connector housing.

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#25 7 years ago

And you have 50VDC at J3 pins 1,2,5,6 or the 2 blue and the 2 gray wires?

#26 7 years ago

No, I can't get any vdc at those (testing with j3 plugged in from back of board).

#27 7 years ago

And you said you have another flipper board? Because your getting power to the board, but no power out to the flippers. I am thinking it's the flipper board.

#28 7 years ago

I just put in a brand new Kohout board so it's almost definitely not the board.

So with probes both in connector housing (5 and 9 etc)for j4 I am only getting 10vac which, being low, is I guess why I'm not getting flipper power. Not sure where to go from there though.

#29 7 years ago

I am lost! You got the correct input vdc but the wrong output voltage, Has to be something on the flipper board! Both boards bad maybe?

#30 7 years ago

The input is vac, not vdc.

Here's a simpler question. If I'm not getting enough input voltage to the flipper power board - let's assume that- what is the next thing to check?

#31 7 years ago

Sorry, I have left home and posting from my phone! I am better at doing this from my laptop. I will recheck the schematics when I get home and get back with you.

#32 7 years ago

The 48VAC is one output of the transformer. If it's not right, you need to take one more step 'left' on your schematic and check the inputs to your transformer. Can you get a pic of the schems back further left of J5?

#33 7 years ago

The Laser Cue schematics (or manual) don't show the transformer, the curly line is as far as it goes.

Interesting note from pinwiki on the flipper driver board(http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#System_7_Hyperball_Specific_Driver_Board):

This PCB was first used in Hyperball to control the auger (ball lift) motor. As you an see in the pictures above, the PCB layout was designed to accommodate more components than were ever stuffed. This is because this same board, using different components, is used in some Williams video games. In Firepower II, Laser Cue and Star Light the trimmed down version shown here provides the flipper coils with 50VDC power. The AC voltage supplied to the bridge rectifier originates from a second, smaller, transformer mounted on the wooden plank in the bottom rear of the cabinet.

A quick search isn't coming up with mappings for this transformer, but it sounds like it may only cover the flipper board, so tomorrow I'm going to unplug the game, remove the grill and take a look and a few pics.

I figure since the Kohout board LED power indicator isn't lighting and the fuse is good, the issue MUST be the incoming power connection and not something upstream? Maybe loose solder joint at the transformer?

#34 7 years ago

Does it say where these lines go?

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#35 7 years ago

The Firepower II schematic looks pretty similar. Attached is sections stitched together. The flipper transformer's input is connected to mains power with some taps on it.
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#36 7 years ago

Yeah, OK, if that's the case you should measure wall voltage (110 - 120VAC) from Yellow to White/Red.

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If you see 120 in and 10 out, bad transformer.

#37 7 years ago

Found the problem. I pulled the grill and took a look at the transformers. The two white-green wires that attach to the small transformer lug had fallen off, apparently during the move. Soldered them back on, and the flippers are working as intended.

Thanks everyone for the troubleshooting help!

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#38 7 years ago

Great! That is MUCH too good a game to languish without flippers. Now ring that bell!

#39 7 years ago

Great!!! Glad you got it figured out! Now enjoy!!!

#40 7 years ago

Yeah I'm loving it, sharpshooters delight! Excellent nudging action to bounce the ball to the upper flipper on the 8 ball return and a tough left outlane with no rubber. Now I just gotta figure out what CUE does...

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