Working on a Laser Cue for a friend of mine. Lots of hacks im trying to clean up. May need pics from you guys soon. Cool game.
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Working on a Laser Cue for a friend of mine. Lots of hacks im trying to clean up. May need pics from you guys soon. Cool game.
I need photos of the two right flipper coils. My left flippers are working properly. Looks like someone tried to replace the right side with newer coils but the wiring must be wrong when i start to press the right flipper button the GI lights start to dim but the solenoids dont fire.
Thanks for any assistance.
Quoted from henrydwh:Let me know what you need, happy to help.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Do you have the schematics by chance? Some of my colors arent matching up to your photos and I'd rather not guess.
Yep, that helped a lot. I got them both wired back in correctly. But only my upper right flipper is working. The lower right does nothing.
I have ~70V at both flipper coils.
I have continuity between the ground wire (blue purple) at the coil and the cabinet button(blue purple).
What am I missing here?
20210107_160536 (resized).jpgI realized after a quick glance again at the left and right cabinet flipper switches. The left side had 3 lugs where the right one had 4 lugs. The (blue purple) wire couldnt reach the (orange purple) so I bridged the two middle lugs together and now both right flippers are working great.
Ive still got to order a master display board, rubber kit, and figure out why I have no sound. But its getting closer. Thanks for the schematic pictures henrydwh IPDB had the manual but no schematics.
20210107_190458 (resized).jpgQuoted from henrydwh:did you make sure the volume is turned up?
Yeah, Its turned up. The test button on the sound board creates one sound and repeats it over and over. No sounds play during game or during sound test.
Unfortunately today while trying different tests I realized that my MPU is booting..... but with a 7 in the display. The manual shows 7 indicates ROM failure. So it looks like I'll be sending my boards back to Eugene.
SmartSelect_20210108-143129_Drive (resized).jpgreceived_710874109617388 (resized).jpegHardtops are awesome when they aren't defective. Nothing like spending 20+ hours delicately preparing a playfield for a hardtop just to find out yours had a defective batch of adhesive and starts lifting up and separating, progressively getting worse each time you play after finishing.
Just a handful of bad experiences shouldn't discredit an awesome product. But man, that was a tough one to swallow.
received_393747268625275 (resized).jpegreceived_719095808720562 (resized).jpegOkay so I made a mistake. Slid my playfield out a little ways to reach the plastics and GI bulbs in the back and as Im changing out bulbs with the power on I start to smell a buring smell. I shut the game off and realize I have let the playfield rest on the lugs of the flipper coils. Crap. I ho ahead and fix the playfield position and finish swapping GI and put it all back together. When I power up, I see that now I have no power to the flippers.
Digging a little deeper I first check the fuse on the flipper power supply. Should be a 5Amp. But its a 25 amp. Great... I can see I have AC power from the smaller transformer (although it seems low) but no DC power on the flipper power supply.
Since this fuse was obviously overfused, what possibly shorted out?
Quoted from gutz:Look at the back of the flipper supply board, you might have some burned traces from the over-fuse.
Bingo! Found a lifted trace and a completely burned trace. Glued the lifted trace back down with clear nail polish and jumped the broken one.
All fixed now! Thanks!
received_2761372984116090 (resized).jpegreceived_456830185503413 (resized).jpegreceived_722271741792411 (resized).jpegQuoted from gutz:With that much of an over-fuse, you just discovered the "new fuse" was the traces
Yeah no kidding!!! It was a 25amp!
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