Message me, a friend of mine has a stack of NOS displays for much cheaper.

Double check that the power supply wired into the displays are the same first and if that's OK, then you can swap the displays back and forth between the games with little risk.

check the connector going to the DMD, not the DMD controller board. There are at least 3 different manufacturers of the large display and some of them have a different pinout to the 4 pin connector (or was it 3 pin) going to the DMD itself. I have encountered this once on a Frankenstein.

I'm confused. You said the connectors are different (reversed) between the displays in the 2 games. If that is correct than of course the displays wont light when you switch them between the games.

Also, I have been able to repair 2 non working/partial working large displays by changing the large caps on the board.

Checked the Baywatch manual as it has the schematics for 3 different manufacturers of the large display. Power inputs at the display are as follows

Pins 1 2 3 4
Cherry 12V gnd gnd n/c
Babcock 12V gnd gnd n/c
Dale 5V gnd gnd 24V

(I think in all cases it's 18 volts used for the higher voltage)

Now most of the wiring harnesses for these games have a main harness that should likely be the same for all the games that terminates into a flat wide large 4 pin connector and then a small secondary harness that is only 4-10" long that attaches at one end to the main harness and the other end directly to the display.

I attached a picture of the main harness to secondary harness connector.

If you are swapping displays between games and they are different brands then I believe you have to keep the secondary harness matched with the display brand. (I am not 100% sure so double check the power with a meter at the connectors).

Maverick_backbox.jpg

No guarantee on that. From the schematics it looks like you may have run 18V into the 5V line depending on the game

Should be printed on it. You may have to disassemble the metal shields to see more of the circuit board

No, You can't remove the glass on these boards as it's a glued ribbon cable and not pins that you can desolder. IIRC I had to bend the old caps in order to cut them off and then soldered in new caps higher than the board so that I could reach the solder pads. Don't recall which brands I did that one.