Lamp/bulb sockets

(Topic ID: 209166)

Lamp/bulb sockets


By Terry1

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Stoomer
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 5 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    pasted_image2 (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    DSC09491 (resized).jpg
    Lamp socket 2 (resized).JPG
    Lamp socket 1 (resized).JPG

    #1 4 months ago

    Is there an outside chance that some one would have new(ish)
    lamp sockets like these monsters!!!
    Terry K

    Lamp socket 1 (resized).JPG

    Lamp socket 2 (resized).JPG

    #2 4 months ago

    You'll have to go with a more modern socket.

    #3 4 months ago

    Is the socket not working at all, or is it performing poorly, with flickering or other issues?

    #4 4 months ago

    Lots of issues
    I tried all my tricks. Must be careful when bending out(slightly) the center contact!
    I have a small wire brush to burnish/clean the sides of the socket.
    Of course, the sockets in question are either under things, or in very difficult positions.
    The one that is the most aggravating is the #18 bingo card lamp. I believe that
    Bally built my whole machine around that socket!!!
    I tried to bend up the center contact to get more pressure on the side(s) when
    the bulb is turned in.
    The sides/diameter seem to be either to large or out of round!
    And the fun never ends.
    Terry K

    #5 4 months ago

    I had poor illumination on many of the horse selection number sockets on my Turf King. I've also had this problem with bingos. A lightbulb will be on and then go out for no reason, or the reverse - be dark when it should be lit, and then it suddenly lights up. I used the jumper wire technique I read about on Pinside, and it made the lights work perfectly. The two red wires in the photo are 3" jumpers from the light socket lug to the prong that presses against the base of the bulb. I learned to use a big loop so the jumper would have plenty of flexibility and not interfere with spring tension on the prong. I don't recognize the socket style on your game, so maybe the technique has no application in your case.

    DSC09491 (resized).jpg

    #6 4 months ago
    Quoted from Terry1:

    I tried all my tricks. Must be careful when bending out(slightly) the center contact!

    I usually go the opposite of careful. With the power to the socket off, remove the lamp and with a small flat-bladed screwdriver pry the center tab from the front pretty much all the way towards you/up ...so the tip is nearly touching the side of the socket. It'll spring back most of the way. If it breaks, the tension was crap anyway.

    if the lamp has a deep divot in the tip, swirl the tip hard on a flat metal surface ... like an anvil on a bench vise. The tip is soft and can be reshaped to remove the divot.

    if the socket is corroded, you can clean it a bit with a small wire brush on a dremel tool or anything hooked you can scrape with like a dental pick. You mostly care about the humped area where the pegs on the lamp nestle into. Just twisting the lamp back and forth a few times usually scrubs it clean enough for a long lasting contact if you don't have a tool handy.

    #7 4 months ago

    "twit",that is exactly the same things I do
    On a slightly different note, I noticed that all of my bingo
    number lights are/were # 313's!
    I tried some # 1464. Wow, the #1464 is a round bulb like a
    # 55 lamp. Does it ever fill up the number(s) card nice; a lot
    nicer than the # 313's!!!
    Terry K

    #8 4 months ago
    Quoted from baldtwit:

    I usually go the opposite of careful. With the power to the socket off, remove the lamp and with a small flat-bladed screwdriver pry the center tab from the front pretty much all the way towards you/up ...so the tip is nearly touching the side of the socket. It'll spring back most of the way. If it breaks, the tension was crap anyway.
    if the lamp has a deep divot in the tip, swirl the tip hard on a flat metal surface ... like an anvil on a bench vise. The tip is soft and can be reshaped to remove the divot.

    This thread is useful to me since one of my current projects is a 57 Bally Circus - http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=520 - which is from an era when Bally was mostly making Bingos, and the OPs sockets are exactly the kind that Circus has...a huge amount of them I might add. My initial thought was to replace them all with more modern ones as someone suggested, but there's just way too many.

    So I appreciate baldtwit's approach and suggestions - I'll post any tips/experience/useful info I might encounter while going through the back-box of this title.

    #9 4 months ago

    313's are a 28V lamp with lower light output at its rated voltage than a 1458 (20V rated). Put 17V on a 313 and it's pretty dim.

    dunno why someone would want to use a 313 unless they had a bunch laying around and were too cheap to get 1458/1464s.

    #10 4 months ago

    How do the 1458/1464 bulbs compare to 55s?

    I have MANY 55s, but none of the others...not that I'm adverse to buying them, but if they're virtually the same I'll use what I got, especially since I haven't found great use for the 55s I find in so many woodrails...

    Sean

    #11 4 months ago

    Stoomer, keep in mind that the 1458/1464 are 17V lamps.
    The 55's are 6V.
    These voltages are relative to their use.
    In the bingo card position(s), the lamps are supplied with 17V, so a
    55 would burn out! likewise, in all other "general illumination" lamps,
    they are supplied with 6V.
    # 44 - 6.3V
    # 47 - 6.3V
    # 55 - 7.0V
    # 313 - 28V
    # 1464 - 20V
    If you dig deeper you will notice different current ratings = brightness.
    I like the # 55 lamps for just about everything *, except for the
    bingo card lamps where I use # 1464; keeping in mind that my machine is only
    on during the times I play it!!!
    * the first three odds lamps(Green 4,6 & 8 ) on a Bikini must be # 47 as well as the first Futurity
    advance lamp
    Terry K

    #12 4 months ago

    Great Terry...thanks!

    I missed the whole voltage part earlier...thanks for clarifying for me. Bingos are great, but I GOTTA stay focused on my flipper EMs...I got a lifetime of those to restore already.

    The higher voltage bulbs may be useful in the projection units for those 40's and 50's pins that use those...they need to be bright! I use "silverlight" auto bulbs in there now...but it feels so wrong. Haha

    Sean

    #13 4 months ago

    As I suspected...the lamp circuits on both Circus and my projection unit games are all 6V...so 55s and auto bulbs it is!!

    #14 4 months ago
    Quoted from Stoomer:

    As I suspected...the lamp circuits on both Circus and my projection unit games are all 6V...so 55s and auto bulbs it is!!

    Although some folks disagree with me, 55's are way too hot. 44's or 47's are a better choice. I use 47's. Sure, they are dimmer, but you want to save that backglass.

    #15 4 months ago
    Quoted from DennisDodel:

    Although some folks disagree with me, 55's are way too hot. 44's or 47's are a better choice. I use 47's. Sure, they are dimmer, but you want to save that backglass.

    Thanks Dennis...it's a bgResto BG, so I'm not sure the heat is as big a concern...however shining through (I've heard), will probably be. It seems like folks are finding LEDs to be a better fit for the direct printing BGs, so maybe the 55s will be the ticket. I'll try them out first regardless...there's alota bulbs behind this BG thanks, in part, to the two-player lamp driven scoring, so I don't want to replace them with LEDs unless I have to.

    The "original" BG was a horrific spectacle indeed! Remarkable that someone went thru the painstaking task of scraping all the unlit areas away, only to fingerpaint the replacement and create this monstrosity. I have to assume they thought it would turn out better...lol

    pasted_image (resized).png

    And what it's supposed to look like:

    pasted_image2 (resized).png

    #16 4 months ago

    to get an idea, below is some example info from normanlamps.com (prices can be high, so check elsewhere).

    -------------
    #55 : Voltage: 7.0V, Current: 0.41A, Light Output: 2.0 MSCP, Type: G4 1/2 Miniature Bulb, Base Type: BA9S Miniature Bayonet, Life Hours: 500, Dimensions: 1.06 in. Length x 0.588 in. Diameter

    #47 : Voltage: 6.3V, Current: 0.15A, Type: T-3 1/4 Miniature Bulb, Base Type: BA9S (Miniature Bayonet Base), Life Hours: 3,000, Dimensions: 1.18 in. Length x 0.41 in. Diameter, MSCP: 0.52

    -------------

    mscp is mean spherical candle power - a measure of brightness.

    the bingo machine transformer supplies around 6.3V, 17.5V and 52V on almost all the machines. The schematic says 6, 17 and 50, but that assumes 115V coming from your power company, and typically you get 120V in the USA, so the transformer output is proportionally higher.

    If you put a #55 on the 6.3V circuit, you are supplying less than it's rated voltage and it'll draw less current and be a little dimmer.

    it would be nice if lamps just followed the simple ohms law of V=I x R (voltage = current x resistance), but the resistance of the filament changes depending on how hot it is, and the change isn't linear. Likewise, the light output isn't linear with voltage. What you really need is a graph showing the curve of light output vs. voltage and heat vs. voltage if you want to get scientific.

    anyway, even though you are under-volting a 55 on a 6.3V supply, you can guess from above that a 55 will be a lot brighter than a 47, but it'll also draw a lot more current and will be a lot hotter. You decide what matters to you.

    any BA9S mini bayonet lamp will fit the socket. Some people compromised with a 44 lamp.:

    #44 : Voltage: 6.3V, Current: 0.25A, Type: T-3 1/4 Miniature Bulb, Base Type: BA9S (Miniature Bayonet Base), Life Hours: 3,000, Dimensions: 1.18 in. Length x 0.41 in. Diameter, MSCP: 0.9

    #17 4 months ago

    The back glasses that Coos make, according to him,
    can handle #55 lamps no prob!
    Terry K

    #18 4 months ago

    Thanks for the breakdown bt...it's very informative! I will report back later this year with what I end up doing - this is a major project, and I have extensive PF work to do, and I'm also repainting the cabinet. I hope to have it ready by the York Show in October.

    I was working on the head insert last night, and since I had it laying face down to go through the stepper units, I did what you suggested with the center tab that makes contact with bottom of the bulb, except I pushed DOWN on that tab as far as I could push it. You were right - they spring back, and are now going to all be tighter when I finally install the bulbs. I think I was just lucky, but none of them broke!

    I also checked out the Coos BGs you mentioned Terry...hadn't heard of them...great news! I'd love to find a use for these 55 bulbs...I find a ton of them in my old woodrail projects...

    Sean

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 169.95
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop
    From: $ 23.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 99.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 9.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 109.00
    $ 26.50
    $ 99.99
    Cabinet - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 128.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lermods
    $ 27.95
    From: $ 19.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 12.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 84.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    From: $ 15.00
    Electronics
    nvram.weebly.com
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 66.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 22.00
    Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    € 6.50
    Flipper Parts
    Buthamburg
    From: $ 23.00
    $ 40.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Great American Pinball

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside