Just about to order some #555 lamps to replace the various dead lamps and started thinking about reducing heat/power draw just a little.

From a bit of searching, it's clear this is a common train of thought Although usually with #44 vs #47. Anyhow a thread noted #159 as a lower power alternative. Both 6.3V with a reduction from 0.25A to 0.15A. However the drop in brightness looks, at least by the numbers, quite a bit, from 0.9 down to 0.34 candle power. Before I buy a couple to find out how big a difference that is, does anyone happen to know what voltage you could run a #555 at to get roughly the same brightness difference? As I could do a side by side with two #555s I have at different voltages on my bench supply to see what I think.

Also, whilst looking into this I found a link to https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Lamp_Chart and it looks like the #194 might also be a suitable replacement for a #555. It's 0.27A when running at 14V and 2.0 candle power. However, since it would be in a 6.3V circuit there'll be a drop in brightness and current draw, the question is, how significant for each? Does anyone know?

I know the ultimate answer is just to buy a few and find out, but as I need quite a few of whichever I ultimately go for, I'd prefer to get the lot in one order to save on shipping costs and avoid wasting lamps.

I tried running a 12V lamp at 6.3V which dropped from 0.38A to 0.28A and a quite significant brightness drop. However given the #194 is spec'd at twice the 555's brightness, if a similar drop occurs, it might not be far of equivalent brightness for a lower current draw?

I was thinking about that, but I'm not sure just yet on LED. The illumination angles seem a bit more restrictive.

I might look into them a little further this evening, although I'm still curious about the #194 regardless

I'm open to switching to LEDs but I don't really want the cost of replacing everything atm as the majority of the lamps are still working fine. I could replace the dead lamps with LED equivalents however from a bit of reading up on the types I'd need, it sounds like I'd run into issues.

There's a few posts about the lack of dimming and in turn the sudden on/off transitions of LEDs which would require something like the "LED/GI OCD". However, that's not intended for use with any incandescent lamps, so it'd be an all or nothing switch. There's also the added cost of either none ghosting LEDs (and knowing which parts beyond helmet might require them) or ROM patching.

I think for simplicities sake, I'll get some #159's for the backbox and see if I feel they're bright enough. That'll tide me over until I've the time to revisit LEDs in the future and either get one of the pre-made kits and "LED/GI OCD" (if needed) or the time to go through everything properly. The #159's can't be worse than the current lamps anyway, as they're dead

Edit: That is if I can find any in the UK

I'm not familiar enough with this machine in a full working state to know exactly what it does have, that's part of the reason I'm wary of what I change just yet.

I do know there's a lot of lamps in the playfield that are controlled and I think would look odd without the fade in/out transition. For example, in the attract mode:

Both the centre lamps and right hand skill shot I think would look strange without the slight fade out time.

I'm tempted to just get a few #159's to get the game fully lit and I can focus on the other issues such as some cracked plastic on the ramps, playfield cleaning, mylar, coil sleeves and well it's a bit of a list After that I can look into LEDs and order a selection to experiment with and see how they compare, what limitations they may have in this machine.

Also, if you go with LEDs, choose warm white...that’s the closest in color to incandescents.

Those were the ones I was looking at, although from what others have said, some of the playfield LEDs can be worth colour matching to the plastic colour. Whilst others are better off with a white. I think I'll have to get a selection and experiment really. I don't want to buy a complete kit until I've convinced myself I'll be happy with how they work.

That makes things worse... as now I've seen there's a "#447" that's also 0.15A but a little closer in brightness to the #555 than the #159's