**This part is just backstory so I do not look like a complete moron - Skip down a few paragraphs to get to the issue**
Ok, so I got a heavily loved getaway a few weeks ago and finished the PF restore/rebuild a few days ago. There was an issue present that I noticed but did not really think much of it until now and I am reasonably sure it caused another issue.
Original observed issue - The start button was not lit and was in overall pretty rough shape. I ordered a new one with my parts order and it came with an incandescent bulb. I took that out as I was changing the machine to use all LEDs and installed the switch. The other day when I remembered to put the LED in, it was SUPER bright and melted the solder and the SMD fell off. I took the LED body and grabbed that original incandescent bulb and popped it in...same thing, super bright and blew out almost instantly. I thought to myself "that was weird, why was it so bright?" and began to look at the harness to see what was up and what I had plugged in wrong. I am pretty nurotic about labeling and taking a bunch of photos of plugs before I start rebuilds and this was no different. I verified that all the plugs were plugged in exactly the same as I had taken them off and all the labels matched.
The next issue that came up after the LED melted itself off the board was lamps from 7 would light up when row 8 was tested in single lamp test...weird, but I digress.
**Here is the actual issue**
I took my matrix sheet and noted all the lamps that were illuminating (dimly but sill lighting up) when another lamp in an the above or below row was selected and it was all lamps on row 7 and 8. An example is if I was on lamp 57 (Tach 15), lamp 58 (Shift) would illuminate dimly. I started looking again at schematics and searching on here and found that connector J132 (keyed correctly and correct length for that plug) had a single Y-B wire in it and all the other yellow wires went into J138. The previous owner or someone before him had incorrectly plugged the start button lamp into the solenoid high current plug and that explained why the LED was so bright.
I have tested all the transistors and they are fine. The two things those rows share is U10 and U15 chips. Could those (one or both) be what is causing the power to bleed over to the other circuit? I attached a picture of the circuits. That was the only thing in common that both rows seemed to have in common. Please confirm or deny and thanks in advance for listening to me...I feel pretty dumb that I didn't verify but the game worked with the exception of the power button light so I didn't think much of it. My thought is that the LED allowed that increased current to flow back to the board and fried one or both of those chips. When the original owner plugged it in and since there was an incandescent bulb in there, it just acted like a fuse and blew almost instantly when that extra current hit the filament so it acted like a fuse.