(Topic ID: 299689)

Lamp board connector issue

By nicoy3k

2 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by TheLaw
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

Hi

The left side castle inserts on my MM are a little dim/inconsistent. I think it has to do with the right side wire on my board connector. As you can see it isn’t pushed all the way into the connector. How do I go about pushing the wire in/fixing it?

Also, can these connectors just be pulled off the board? It doesn’t look like the pins are soldered onto the underside of the board.

Lastly, what are these connectors called?

Thanks

249F8714-AC8E-4613-87D4-9BAD48B96D53 (resized).jpeg249F8714-AC8E-4613-87D4-9BAD48B96D53 (resized).jpeg
#2 2 years ago

so I tried pushing the right side wire into the connector with a screw driver and it didn't change much, the left side inserts are still very dim/inconsistent.

#3 2 years ago

Those connections are called IDC. Insulation displacement connector. All of mine pull right off the boards. The header pins should definitely be soldered to the board.

#5 2 years ago

Thanks, do you guys think that I have a bad connector? Would you change it to molex?

Is this the right one?

https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-crimp-stuff-7-position-housing-with-locking-ramp-17415.html

#6 2 years ago

I believe if you switch to the molex then you will need the terminal ends to crimp on the wire to insert it into the connector. Most people would switch to molex because it’s probably more reliable. But that’s up to you.

The idc push tool would not work for the crimp style molex.

Usually when changing the connectors people will switch the header pins on the board as well.

#7 2 years ago

I would try hitting the board pins with sand paper before any of that

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I would try hitting the board pins with sand paper before any of that

Could you please elaborate, thank you

#9 2 years ago

Oxidation/goo/filth can occur on the pins on the board. Many problems are 'fixed' easily enough by taking sandpaper (400 is well) and scuffing up all sides/tops of the male pins.
Works a lot on games older than this, but you might as well try it since you'll be waiting to fix anyway.

As for replacement, that standard moves you are showing you would need neew ends as stated and a crimper...but how would that be done since the wires run through to another area?

Heck, I would also check the solder job on that opposite site, and the twist in connections. But hey. I like to solder things

#10 2 years ago

Resoldering the board pin connectors worked, I also had a bad twist socket which made things more confusing

#11 2 years ago

Let's hope it sticks!

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