I would start by reseating all the connectors up top, they get goofy on car rides all the time, the top left board I would pull those connectors and reconnect them all and disconect the ribbon cables and reconnect, and push on the game roms to make sure they are seated

Chris

It has to be something that came loose. Look over every connector and wire with a FINE tooth comb.

Sounds like one of two things is going on here-

Scenario 1- Your PPB has bad FET's on it, which are probably dead short (causing all sollenoids to lock and blow the fuse). You can test them with a DMM on diode test, or continuity beep. If any of the 3 legs have a short, the FET is bad.

Scenario 2- You have a short under the playfield. Inspect the wiring harness carefully, especially near the sollenoids. Ensure no wires have come loose and nothing is touching metal.

To help narrow down the problem, I would pull out the schematic and find all of the sollenoid output connectors. Unplug all of them, see if the DMD fault clears and the game boots. If it does, its a sollenoid problem. If it does not, its a PCB problem. Connect them back one at a time until the faul re-appears to figure out what area the issue is.

Hope this helps, LAH is a great game! I miss mine

FET is the big TIP36 on the PPB board. Definatley what I would be checking as well. Pretty sure there are 3 on that PPB. The PPB is the bottom left board in the backbox.

did you put the back down? you might have a pinched wire i would start there

this happened to me on a BR

Outer Middle Outer on the transistor

You are just looking for less than 50 ohms between the pins.
Measure ohms this way. (Don't worry much about if the red or black is on which pins)

Outer to Middle
Middle to other outer
Outer to Outer

Just is the simpliest way to check all the TIP36C parts.
I don't remember if the LAH has 2 or 3 of these TIP36C transistors. I would have to look at my machine later on.
If one of the TIP36C parts is shorted, you'll notice the other ones will not be shorted.

The TIP36C is a TO-220 package which means the left lead is the base, which is always your reference point. With your DMM in diode/continuity mode do the following:

1. Put the DMM's black lead on the left leg of the transistor.
2. Test to the middle leg and the right leg with the red lead.
3. You should get a reading between .3 - .8 volts on each.
4. Put the red lead on the left leg of the transistor.
5, Test to the middle leg and the right leg with the black lead.
6. Your DMM should read open on each.

Just to be clear, TIP36's are not FET's.

See the following aritcle for more info on testing transistors:

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/ss-tutorials/120-electronics-tutorial-2-transistors

Forgot an important part: the left lead when the metal tab is facing away from you and the leads are pointing down.

I've got the same problem. While looking for a shorted coil I noticed that the fuses for all the magnets under the playfield were blown as well. I am also not getting the correct readings off of the 2 bridge rectifiers inside the backbox. Haven't had time to check the power supply. I think I only have 1 of the Tip 36C's at spec. I dig into it more this week and report back. Seems like a lot of problems to just happen all at once.