(Topic ID: 297594)

LAH >>>both flippers inop.

By TecumsehPlissken

2 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by gdonovan
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#1 2 years ago

Working today on a Last Action Hero that suddenly lost both flippers??? I have checked the EOS switches as well as the cabinet switches cleaned the contacts and checked that they are all properly adjusted. Fuse F5 was blown on the PPB board as was F5 on the power supply. Replaced the fuses thinking I should see some kind of results but still no flippers & the new fuses do not blow. I have also tried jumper wires across the EOS switches and the cabinet switches but still cant get anything out of the flipper coils. Both of the LED's on the flipper control board under the playfield light when the flipper buttons are depressed for a second but do not remain lit if button is held I think this is normal? I have checked for voltage at the coils and with the game on in play mode and flipper button is depressed I get a spike of around 36 vdc that settles at around 4.7 vdc when the button is held down. The flipper board the game is running on is a 520-5070-00 and the board has had a lot of repair work around the fuse holders. I do measure good continuity across them though. I also tried a used and untested 520-5033-00 flipper board from a data east star trek but that did not work for me either.

#2 2 years ago

if you had work done on the flipper board, did they replace the fuse clips? data east is notorious for bad clips.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

if you had work done on the flipper board, did they replace the fuse clips? data east is notorious for bad clips.

If the fuse clips are suspected of having bad contact with the fuse, you can check voltage across the fuse on the ends of the fuse holders with a voltmeter. It should be "0" if the fuse is making contact on both ends. If there is voltage present on the connections to the fuse clips or where the fuse clips are connected with the fuse in place, the fuse clips are not making good contact or the fuse is bad.

#4 2 years ago

There is a plug/connector at the back of the playfield..(lift the pf and look under the pf towards the back). Sometimes that plug gets disconnected when you lift the pf..it will cut off power to both flippers. Don't ask how I know....

#5 2 years ago

Connector on back of playfield checks ok , noticed 2 areas of board damage in the upper right of the CPU board. I don't have a manual for the game can someone tell me what the damaged parts drive ? Flippers perhaps? picture attached looks like Q5 or Q6 and the tips next to them. Also on the chip above and to the left as well.

20210728_142044[1] (resized).jpg20210728_142044[1] (resized).jpg
#6 2 years ago

yup there's your problem. that section is the flipper coil drives.

#7 2 years ago

That board damage looks pretty nasty.
Assuming that damage can be repaired, the next question might be, why did that happen in the first place?
Might want to check the coils and wiring to the flippers to make sure that there is not some other underlying issue that is not obvious.
Then again, perhaps some problem on the board caused the issue in the first place.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

yup there's your problem. that section is the flipper coil drives.

Pretty sure slings and pops are driven there, flippers are controlled by the flipper board in lower cab.

Regardless some board repair needs to be done.

#9 2 years ago

at CN19 pin 1 and 2 are flippers then you have the transistors that blew. those go to the right slig shot.

#10 2 years ago

Right slingshot coil has melted coil sleeve and frozen, as well as the "Ripper" kickback coil. Already replaced the sling coil had one in stock. Trying to source a board or maybe send this one out for repair. A Rottendog board for this game is missing a couple of wires/pins on connector CN3 ??

#11 2 years ago

Question I have access to a used board from a Data East Star Trek would it work in this game? it looks very similar but also a few pins short on connector CN3

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

Question I have access to a used board from a Data East Star Trek would it work in this game? it looks very similar but also a few pins short on connector CN3

DE boards are backwards compatible...also CN3 is for the printer if memory serves...so no worries. However you need to check the part number it's either 002, 003, 004. I believe there is a 4C also but it's still considered a 4th Gen.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

DE boards are backwards compatible...also CN3 is for the printer if memory serves...so no worries. However you need to check the part number it's either 002, 003, 004. I believe there is a 4C also but it's still considered a 4th Gen.

Hmmmmm I suppose was hoping for forward compatible. Star Trek 1991 board to LAH 1993

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

Hmmmmm I suppose was hoping for forward compatible. Star Trek 1991 board to LAH 1993

Sorry it won't work, but judging by that one picture, your board is repairable...if there is something wrong with the coils, as soon as you turn the game on, the game will either burn a fuse or lock on that coil on....you can then turn the game off quickly and troubleshoot the coil that may be locking on. I know it's not an ideal way to troubleshoot but even with a new board you'll have to turn the game on to see what is wrong with it.

#15 2 years ago

I tried a used untested board from a Maverick in this game but with that installed I now have no DMD or control lamps?

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

I tried a used untested board from a Maverick in this game but with that installed I now have no DMD or control lamps?

check your connectors. the dmd is the ribbon one of the ribbon cables. do you know for sure the maverick board is 100% good?

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

check your connectors. the dmd is the ribbon one of the ribbon cables. do you know for sure the maverick board is 100% good?

Nope board was untested just happen to get my hands on it. Something else is going on though I also tried a rottendog one and got the same conditions/results

1 week later
#18 2 years ago

I have disconnected the ripper kickback coil & tried 2 different rottendog boards as well as this one from a Maverick in this game. I still have no DMD display or any lamps lit. Game says "Ill be back" at start up and some of the playfield lamps light for about 1/2 a second when powered down ?????????????????????????????

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

I have disconnected the ripper kickback coil & tried 2 different rottendog boards as well as this one from a Maverick in this game. I still have no DMD display or any lamps lit. Game says "Ill be back" at start up and some of the playfield lamps light for about 1/2 a second when powered down ?????????????????????????????

To some degree ignore the call out for now, matter of fact I'd unplug the sound board to remove it from the diagnostic tree in case it has some short in one of the voltage lines.

Data East sound boards ALWAYS do a call out, even if the MPU is removed from the machine.

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