Hi,

So doing some research on the internet I came across a pinside thread similar to my issue however they were able to have this fixed by replacing two transistors on their magnet driver board.

I've recently purchased a last action hero data East and had noticed one of the three slow blow fuses for the three magnets had blown so I replace that, but constantly blows. The old magnet driver board looked beyond repair with tracks being replaced by pieces of small wire and big blobs of solder being replaced for some tracks as well. I can't even tell where the real circuitry is on that board underneath with the persons attempted repairs.

I went ahead and purchased a new one from ministry of sound. The problem I have now is instead of the magnet driver board energizing and staying on once it's activated in the gameplay and then eventually blowing a 3 amp SB, underneath the Playfield, I have F5 in the back box constantly blowing when the game is powered on. In the instruction manual F5 is for 50v coils, this was fine with the old board. The new board is brand new out of sealed packaging there should be nothing wrong with this. Theres a power on indication on this new magnet driver board. Has a red LED. after it blows fuse F5 it the board appears to remain on. But I can't play the game if there's no coils working, so can't test the new board either. As for the new board I have followed this up also with the supplier. Still waiting on further emails.

I suspect one of the magnets is shorted and instead of one of the 3 amp SB fuses blowing it now takes out the 5 amp SB in the PPB? This might be an existing problem with the game if that is the problem. Any help would be fantastic here.

Kind regards,
Shane.

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Hi Mike,

Where are you getting that information from? I can confirm that those 3 SB fuses are only 3A. That's from the manual. Also people here have had 2 amp in theirs and been corrected for 3 amp.

BR1 will be fine. The game plays fine with the magnet driver board disconnected. And If I install the old magnet driver board F5 also doesn't blow at all then too. It's instead a problem at the 3 amp SBs on the underside of the play-field.

It's only when the ministy of pinball magnet driver board is connected that F5 fuse blows.

Can anyone comment that has a LAH pinny. This is supposed to be a problematic area to this game.

I'm going to look further into the magnets once I get a chance. Possibly 1 or more shorted? Replacing the magnet driver board for some people has fixed this issue. I've already tried that.

Ok so update. As suggested by someone from Pandora box where the replacement magnet driver board came from, remove all three fuses for the magnets, keep the new board plugged in and switch the machine on, if F5 doesn't blow switch off the machine again put in 1 fuse for a magnet and test again.

So the most left 3 amp slow blow fuse doesn't blow F5 however once magnet is activated by the multi ball feature pretty much blows that 3 amp slow blow fuse right away as never got to feel any magnetism and fuse blown under the play-field once checked.

With the middle 3 amp slow blow fuse inserted this seems to activate the magnet straight away and that seems to be blowing at the same time that F5 is blowing. I can see F5 fuse filament bending and I have about maybe 2 seconds to switch the game off before the fuse completely goes but not really enough time to catch it.

The third 3 amp slow blow fuse acts the same way as the first one, where it doesn't do anything to F5 however that 3 amp slow blow fuse blows right away on activation of the magnet in multiball.

Another thing as well. I don't believe there's anything wrong with the three magnets that I have. I've tested them and they read around 4.4 to 4.8 ohms. These figures seem very typical to other magnets.

Another thing I've just done now was read the voltage across the three 3 amp slow blow fuses for the magnets with the new magnet board plugged in. None of the 3 amp slow blow fuses plugged in though.

All three read 76 volts DC across either side where the fuses are supposed to be placed as soon as the game is powered on and it just stays that way. So that makes sense then if the mosfet transistors in the board are short circuit which they are. Maybe they have been compromised by the IC.

Update. Jasper from pindora believes that there is something wrong with the IC that is on the board, that is messing up the clock signal an tells the magnets to be activated (this ofcourse blows F5). Jasper wants to send me a new board.

Source of all my problems was the magnet driver board. Replacing the magnet driver board AGAIN. Waiting for delivery of the new one.

Hi Arolden,

Thanks, I did come across that initially when trouble shooting. That's what prompted me to get a new magnet control board. Plus the old one looks all hacked. That sites part store just says part store coming soon. I went with a ministry of pinball magnet control board. They just happen to sell me an untested board with a bad IC. The supplier for ministry claims he has sent me one that he's personally tested this time in his guns and roses. Along with another IC and 3 transistors to make the previous new one a working spare. Does my head in this magnet crap. Had the game for a few months and still haven't had the magnets operational.