Laguna Beach fuse problems

(Topic ID: 211281)

Laguna Beach fuse problems


By Bingo-poor

8 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by Bingo-poor
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    #1 8 months ago

    Hey guys, me again, trying to get a Laguna Beach up and running this time. It’s been sitting in storage for years, I reckon.
    Still a very nice machine though.The problem I’m running into with this one is the 50 Volt fuse. It doesn’t blow when you first power up the machine but rather as soon as you cycle it the first time. It doesn’t tilt when you power it up either......
    Any thoughts on this one?

    #2 8 months ago

    Very common problem......... somehow you have to isolate the 50volt line.
    Most likely a shorted coil that is BURNT. I would look there first.
    Did you fix your other Bingo problems ?

    #3 8 months ago

    it may help to get a 10 amp ACG circuit breaker. They are usually sold for automotive use and rated for 12VDC ... that's good enough for a 50VAC circuit for a long while.

    next step is to see if your problem is reset vs. cycling. Reset happens mostly when the playfield shutter opens, so you'll want to manually open the shutter then turn on/cycle the game to see what happens. If the fuse is ok then, it's likely a reset coil and you keep the playfield tipped up against the head and manually lift up shutter switch stacks to isolate problem.

    if cycling with the shutter already open blows the fuse/trips the breaker, it's likely a step-up coil.
    - turn off game
    - manually trip the extra ball trip relays
    - turn on game
    - manually close the anti-cheat relay
    - cycle game by manually closing the start relay

    if the fuse still blows, is it blowing when the spotting index or mixer latch coils power?

    #4 8 months ago

    Thanks in advance, I should have a chance to work on it tonight. I will get back with you.I was able to get my other Bingo
    Problems fixed JKnPA, sorry about not getting back to you guys.

    #5 8 months ago

    Good...... Its all a 'learning process' for those reading the post
    Its important to know the final outcome in case we have the same problem.
    You will learn a lot about your Pin troubleshooting this problem....

    #6 8 months ago

    I followed Baldtwit’s instructions exactly, turned it off,tripped the EB trip relays,manually opened the shutter,turned it on,manually closed the anti-cheat relay and cycled It manually at the start relay....still blowing fuse. While I was then trying to figure out if it was the spotting index or the mixer latch causing the problem,I noticed a wire completely missing from the score extra step switch #6A. Wire #13-5 that runs down to the square pin switch 5-A. I replaced the wire and it quit blowing fuses...

    The new problems are as follows:
    1. Randomly lose all the lights (at once)behind the magic screen.
    2. Randomly lose all of the odds lights (at once) during cycling.
    3. Trying to collect winners: they count up at the red, yellow or green replay counters but don’t make the trip to the main
    replay counter......

    #7 8 months ago

    for flaky power, check the fuses/fuse clips. When the lamps are out, a voltmeter between wire 30 on the transformer and the wires on the fuse lugs is a good way to do it. The fuse clips can be weak/cracked, and the fuse filament can be broken at the cap where you can't see.

    assuming it's not that:

    1] anti-cheat relay switch B or tilt trip relay switch L2 (schem L26)
    2] anti-cheat relay switch E or tilt trip relay switch L4 (schem L24)
    3] main replay counter = replay register? CU switch 13B steps the replay register, the reflex unit step-up coil and the replay meter on the ball trough (if you have one).

    #8 8 months ago

    Following your advice and of course you zoomed me in to the cause of the problems...I went ahead and replaced the fuse block and that took care of the light problems for the most part.Checked and cleaned the tilt trip switches, they looked fine.
    Checked the anti-cheat switches and they looked Alright. I noticed the anti-cheat seemed to be opening (as best as I could tell)between cycles, randomly.....I then tied it closed and mis-adjusted the switches at the”replay register” to set the machine on free play, per the instructions on the Bingo cdyn site.Seems as though doing this solved about 99% of the problems. It is alright to leave the machine in this state, isn’t it? I also checked CU switch 13B continuity over to the replay register and got a value of 34....not very good continuity....I ran a jumper between them and that solved the replay problem. Is it alright to leave this (extra) wire in place? The only other problem I am encountering now is with the blue section scoring. It doesn’t seem to matter if it’s 3 for 300, 2 for 300 or 2 for 600 .... she only wants to give you 96 when you hit it.

    #9 8 months ago
    Quoted from Bingo-poor:

    I noticed the anti-cheat seemed to be opening...It is alright to leave the machine in this state, isn’t it?

    switch C on the anti-cheat relay is responsible for keeping the relay powered once it's been powered via a different circuit. Sounds like either switch C was a bit flaky, which is harmless, or the 50V supply was drooping and the relay lost power. That's not so harmless ... it would imply a partial short circuit someplace else in the game.

    it may be worth eventually putting the anti-cheat relay and replay register switch back to factory, cleaning/adjusting switch C, and seeing if the issue happens. If it was just switch C, you can put it back on free play.

    one side effect of the free play method you used is the game can be turned off and on, and it will keep doing whatever it was doing (including leaving the credits on the replay register). Handy for debugging if you need to turn off power to poke around in 120V areas.

    I'd leave it on free play until you're happy with the game, then undo the free-play mod for a while.

    Quoted from Bingo-poor:

    I also checked CU switch 13B continuity over to the replay register and got a value of 34....not very good continuity....I ran a jumper between them and that solved the replay problem. Is it alright to leave this (extra) wire in place?

    you can, or you may want to check wire 48-4 by the plugs and the reflex unit. It's not common for a wire to have an issue in the bundles, but rarely one will corrode, get cut into by a clamp, or eaten by a rodent. Wire 48-4 goes to a blade on 13B, the reflex unit step-up coil (top coil), replay register, and replay meter in cabinet via plug connection. Two of those points will have a single wire, two will have a double wire. See if the double wires have a problem.

    Quoted from Bingo-poor:

    The only other problem I am encountering now is with the blue section scoring. It doesn’t seem to matter if it’s 3 for 300, 2 for 300 or 2 for 600 .... she only wants to give you 96 when you hit it.

    the blue section on laguna beach scores 5-in-green, so the score depends on the green odds. Does your backglass say something else?

    games with blue scoring 300/600 use a separate replay counter unit that is independent of the green scores.

    #10 8 months ago

    Sorry for the slow response,had a couple busy days.Of course you’re right about the 2 or 3 in blue score as green 5 as opposed to 3 blue for 300 or 600 and 2 for 600.
    I remember that variation on the OK games from about 40 years ago when I was playing them in the beer joints and wherever. I was able to get my problem with the 48-4 wire ,it was at the double wire connection.
    The only other problem I have had with this one (that I haven’t been able to troubleshoot/fix) is the step-up coil on the magic screen screen feature unit staying powered. It’s only done it once or twice with this machine,but I’m having the same problem with a Circus Queen and it’s doing the same thing just more often.

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