I do lots of cosplay and maker stuff but I wanted to shake up my hobbies with stuff I haven't done before. I've restored a few arcade cabinets and never expected to get into pinball just due to cost. Well I landed a couple machines from an estate sale at a good price and they're both working but in need of some cleanup.
One is a 1948 Lady Robin Hood in relatively good condition but covered in dust and sorely aged.
Lady Robin Hood
I have exhausted the Internet trying to find parts and while I can find a few on sites listed as out of stock like the shooter cover, I can't find authentic pop bumper parts. There are tops but all of the original parts are marbled and the look would be diminished by getting cheaper looking solid color replacement caps. The posts and bumpers are nowhere to be found and a few are cracked. This leaves me with one option.
I'm going to cast and mold all of these parts in new plastic with the marbling. I have to do some tests but since they are marbled there's a limitation to how I can produce them and it will take some trial and error. If I manage to find a way to produce these without a lot of effort I might even sell them. As I said, these are nowhere to be found on the market and after 70 years a lot of these parts have warped or cracked.
The backglass is beyond saving so I've found someone who recreated this one already and ordered a replacement. It's pricey but I got this relatively cheap and I'm doing a full restore on this. The coin door panel is banged up and has glued on parts holding it together. I'm just going to remake it from scratch. The coils all seem to work but I haven't done full tests yet until I can determine what is high voltage. I have the schematics but everything in this is exposed and for me to check throughput safely I have to label the dangerous stuff. The gears and mechanisms definitely need cleaning. The flippers feel weak but I'm not sure if that's intended or these coils are undersized.
I've seen so many of these machines kept as-is but working that I've decided I'm going to do a full repaint and restore on the cabinet. Strip, sand, and re-stain the wood. Repaint all decals and I'm undecided on the weird yellow spray blotches all over. I think I might leave the playfield artwork as it is. I haven't decided yet but I'll know after I clean and polish it. First step is deconstructing all of the playfield because most of these parts are just too old to work well.
I might replace the lighting with LED so the plastic holds up better in future but that means replacing the screw lamp holders.
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The other machine is a Williams Blackout in relatively good condition.
Blackout
Sadly the backglass got scratched some time after these offer photos so I'll be trying to do some touch ups. Everything seems to work. Right flipper is weak and bulging. Capacitors are a bit bulged. Some resistors are doing their Williams cookout on the board. A fuse was just full on missing on the sound board but speech and sound all seem to be fine. Some minor cosmetic stuff and someone used a cheap lightswitch as a manual way to disable the speaker on the machine. There's also a free credit button underneath with a screwed in microswitch that I'll probably replace with a real button. Lastly the batteries are corroded so I'll swap out the whole thing.
Playfield needs new drop targets, a good cleaning, new rubber, and a new ball. Lane guides are cracked but it's difficult to tell. They're cheap to replace so I might just change them out. I'm going to try out 3D printing the Williams logos and finish them to look factory made to replace the scratched up metal panel paint.
The outside of the cabinet has no white so I'm going to replace the buttons with either yellow, red, or transparent lit orange or red lighted buttons.
I'll give some updates on the Blackout machine since I've already done a lot of work on it. I just need to take the after photos so I can do some before and after. I have some samples of LED lighting differences as well. I'll post the relevant photos with each set of work I'm doing and a before/after so the thread is coherent.