Hi Alan_L
the "1 card point score reel for the first player buzzes" --- question: ONLY when You are playing ? --- OR ALSO at starting a new game / resetting ?

The resistor --- I assume that there are several topics about resistors. One of the theories is "the relay acts more lively" --- I doubt. Another theory is "keeps the contact-points / snow-shoe riding on rivets stuff from burning" - maybe - but why are the resistors seldom mounted ? Coil (over) heating and finally burning ? ipdb only has the schematics - hard to read - WHAT coil is mounted in Your pin on the LOCK-RELAY ? hard to read in the schematics - is it an Z-28-1150 ? The same as the coil on the Change-Relay ? The LOCK-RELAY may stay pulling for hours - then why is there NO resistor on the LOCK-RELAY ? So I do not believe in the theory "keeping the relay from over heating".
Williams decided to call it "CHANGE-Relay" - we could say "Alternating relay" - it alternates from "non-pulling for a while" to "pulling for a while" - non-pulling - pulling etc. as the No-Match Unit is stepped. The No-Match-Unit is stepped (among others) by making points in the Ones-points. Have a friend manipulating on the playfield - he makes points (single points) - and You watch the No-Match-Unit --- DOES the Unit ALWAYS do a step ?
See in my JPG - on the bottom to the right: Bumpers will be lit / unlit - and the Light on the bottom-rollovers changes / alternates. Greetings Rolf

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Hi
Howard - thanks for the flowers. I actually stumbled over an "I started once to do a documentation JPG" in my "Spirit of 76" files. At the time (then) I must have decided to not being pinky (?) / itchy (?) and did not proceed in the documentation. A long time ago I was more on the "acts more lively" rail.

Well, here in the JPG we see on the right a funny thing Bally used for a while - to save costs by "not mounting an Tilt-Relay" --- instead: The Tilt-Switches made an "short" so the Hold-Relay quits pulling (which indicates an Tilt) --- and the resistor (encircled orange) prevented / prevents the fuse from blowing --- only a short time --- as the "Hold-Relay quit pulling" very soon opened its Switch in the wiring.

And on the left - my red question mark is the reason why I was on the "acts more lively" side --- WHAT is the purpose on that Coin-Lockout-Coil-Resistor ??? You may read this: http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/features.html ---- here is a search in pinside --- if You want to dig-in: The 3,4-5,6 references in the search will get You to some lively discussions: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/search?s=1&what=posts&q=bingo&topic-machine=&pinsider=rolf_martin_062&age_days=&subforum=0&sort_by=date&sort_order=DESC#results --- Greetings Rolf

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Hi Alan_L +
the "1 card point score reel for the first player buzzes" ONLY when You are playing. I am not familiar with the logic of play, Here is what I see in the ipdb-schematics.
Starting a game makes the "1" close as the Coin-Relay pulls-in. This makes the "2" pull-in and it establish " (3) Self-Hold-Circuitry for a long time" - until all is resetted (4 stuff) - then the "2" drops out. When playing the reset is done everytime a new ball is given (5,6,3,4). The motor is running so "7" pulses - through "8, 9 closed by pulling relay", "10" is the "11" stepped.

Now my problems of understanding the logic: Through running motor, pulsing "7" and pulling relay "either 12 or 13 closed" - then "14": The "11" is also stepped five (?) times. Please write about the No.-1- and No.-2-Relays.
When playing the pulling Target-Relay closes "15" and through "14" the coil "11" fires.
I would look at and clean the switches "12,13,14,15" - do You see sparks ?

(((Funny - I was looking for snippets of schematics to my Gtb Ice Revue and stumbled over))) Here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-over-light they also talk about resistors. I am not an electricien so I do not know - interesting is (the whole topic and) post-8, POST-12, post-15 and on.

The No. Match Unit sticking sometimes: HowardR (post-6) shows the schematics and asks about the "Switch on the 1-Point-Relay" - is this switch adjusted tight - sometimes faulty closed when the relay is not pulling ? We also see on the snippet "when the Player-Reset-Relay is pulling and the motor runs:" A stepping is done - therefore it may be that these "Switches involved" are adjusted tight (?).

Alan_L --- in post-5 You write "NONE of the 1-Point-Switches work" --- maybe they do work - make the 1-Point-RELAY pull-in and then this RELAY keeps-on faulty pulling - so the No-Match-Unit is just a symptom of the faulty endlessly pulling 1-Point-Relay (?). Greetings Rolf

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