(Topic ID: 244969)

Krylon Marbelizing Spray


By mark532011

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by Stoomer
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders

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#1 4 months ago

One of the scary things about cabinet repainting is the marbelizing many old pins have. Some bondo and paint can make an old cabinet look like new, but getting the marbelizing done can be tricky. There have been some threads reporting success and some that were unhappy, as well as do-it-yourself with glue and lacquer thinner. For those thinking of trying it or worried how it works, I made a video of my work on a Target Pool. It is easy to do too much and it came out a little more vivid/dark than the original but all in all I think its easier to do than I had expected.

#2 4 months ago

Very cool! Thanks for sharing.

#3 4 months ago

Interesting...Krylon is calling their "webbing" spray "marbleizing" spray now, eh? Anyways...hopefully you don't get too much flack from the "webbing too heavy" folks on here - but the reason people started using the other methods you talk about was so they could get thinner webbing.

I bought many cans of this Krylon product years ago before Ken came up with his lacquer thinner method, and since I'm crotchety, set in my ways, and demonstrably cheap, I still use these spray cans.

If you or anyone else would like thinner webbing results than you showed in this video, you can make the cans do that too by using very fast arm motions. I've even run up to the cabinet and spray on the way by to spread out the paint better. Also, wind can help you stand further from the piece and throw the strands at cabinet...or a powerful fan.

Basically, the idea is to spread the paint out as much as possible before it hits the surface, and that velocity allows it to "spatter-spread" when it hits, further enhancing the effect.

#4 4 months ago

thanks for the insights, it is definitely a heavier/darker pattern than the original and a large part of what I wanted to do was show how it looks. There has been a lot of discussion with descriptions that are hard to visualize (at least for me.) I hope this video shows how easy it can be for a novice.

I was thinking it could be possible to set the cabinet on end and then spray straight up into the air, that way you don't have the issue of it not spraying far enough. Do you think that would give better results or would it just dry out on the way to the surface?

#5 4 months ago
Quoted from Stoomer:

Interesting...Krylon is calling their "webbing" spray "marbleizing" spray now, eh? Anyways...hopefully you don't get too much flack from the "webbing too heavy" folks on here - but the reason people started using the other methods you talk about was so they could get thinner webbing.
I bought many cans of this Krylon product years ago before Ken came up with his lacquer thinner method, and since I'm crotchety, set in my ways, and demonstrably cheap, I still use these spray cans.
If you or anyone else would like thinner webbing results than you showed in this video, you can make the cans do that too by using very fast arm motions. I've even run up to the cabinet and spray on the way by to spread out the paint better. Also, wind can help you stand further from the piece and throw the strands at cabinet...or a powerful fan.
Basically, the idea is to spread the paint out as much as possible before it hits the surface, and that velocity allows it to "spatter-spread" when it hits, further enhancing the effect.

It's not the amount of webbing. It's the thickness of the webbing. And spray cans just are too thick.

I still have good luck with the good old Weiler brush. No thinning or mixing. Plain old Americana lamp black right out of the bottle. Doesn't take long once you get the technique down20190529_133216 (resized).jpg

#6 4 months ago

EMsInKC that webbing looks great! Ever think of doing a youtube vid of your technique? I may need you to come down to Spring Hill to do that to a Moulin Rouge.....

Thanks for the tips.

John

#7 4 months ago

I "respray" krylon with a little lac thinner to cut it. my latest kod with factory fuzzy

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#8 4 months ago

Very Nice Ken...you've gotten better on the over spray!

Mark: Speaking of not visualizing...I'm not sure I get your idea about spraying up, but it's worth experimenting - I sprayed lots of that crap on primed scrap pieces trying to get it to spread out before coming up with the running/throwing/wind technique I use today. And you're right...it can dry out on the way to the surface - I think Ken's cutting it with lacquer thinner really helps in that regard.

Sean

#9 4 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I "respray" krylon with a little lac thinner to cut it. my latest kod with factory fuzzy[quoted image][quoted image]

What do you mean by “respray” and how are you adding lacquer thinner? Can you give a ratio or measurement on what you mix? So many burning questions!!!

#10 4 months ago

Harbor freight used to sell these for $16
amazon.com link »
Now $30 on Amazon.

I spray the Krylon stuff in the res, add about 40% lac thinner (there's another thread where the ratio's using glue is given) and spray at 60 lbs, sometime I adjust to suit.

#11 4 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Harbor freight used to sell these for $16
amazon.com link »
Now $30 on Amazon.
I spray the Krylon stuff in the res, add about 40% lac thinner (there's another thread where the ratio's using glue is given) and spray at 60 lbs, sometime I adjust to suit.

So you literally spray the can into the hvlp gun paint reservoir, add lacquer, mix, and spray...wow

#12 4 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

One of the scary things about cabinet repainting is the marbelizing many old pins have. Some bondo and paint can make an old cabinet look like new, but getting the marbelizing done can be tricky. There have been some threads reporting success and some that were unhappy, as well as do-it-yourself with glue and lacquer thinner. For those thinking of trying it or worried how it works, I made a video of my work on a Target Pool. It is easy to do too much and it came out a little more vivid/dark than the original but all in all I think its easier to do than I had expected.

Nicely produced video Mark thks.

Sometime ago I was steered on webbing by a recommendation in one of vids guides. This method uses classic or traditional lacquer which is able to be used straight out of the can without thinning. I like it because I prefer a more subtle rather than bold webbing.

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The lacquer I use is marketed in Australian as Dulon.

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So it goes straight into my touchup gun undiluted and after some clearing of the process from the gun then applied. The level of subtleness or boldness of the webbing is controlled by the application technique ie swift wave subtle bold slower wave. As I think others have commented it normally takes longer to clean the gun that to web a cabinet.

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#13 4 months ago

I will have to try some black lacquer...

#14 4 months ago

Ken I understand this classic lacquer may also have been referred to as nitro-cellulose lacquer and only really specialist stockists are likely to have it. I have tried modern acrylic lacquers using the same technique and they just do not web.

#15 4 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I will have to try some black lacquer...

There is a thread on pinside showing how to web using lacquer, glue and lacquer thinner. I'm waiting for the the glue to arrive so I can give it a shot myself and will post pics. Put me down for the "fine webbing" as well, the bolder stuff just doesn't match the pins I have.

Wayner's and EMsInKC looks closest to what is on the Gottliebs I have here if a little dense, it has the right fine threaded make up.

I'll try and take a picture of Domino and post it.

#16 4 months ago

Again, not knocking someones preference, this is what I'm hoping to duplicate.

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#17 4 months ago
Quoted from wayner:

Ken I understand this classic lacquer may also have been referred to as nitro-cellulose lacquer and only really specialist stockists are likely to have it. I have tried modern acrylic lacquers using the same technique and they just do not web.

That lacquer may not be available in the states...I remember talking acrylic lacquers for CCing with Lee at PinballRescue years ago and he indicated that he could still get the "old" lacquer down under that wasn't available in the USA anymore - seemed likely to me but I never verified that...

And I know you guys are talking about lacquer paint, but maybe the same restrictions apply, and that's why Wayne has had trouble making it work with what he calls "modern" lacquers?

Sean

#18 4 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Harbor freight used to sell these for $16
amazon.com link »
Now $30 on Amazon.
I spray the Krylon stuff in the res, add about 40% lac thinner (there's another thread where the ratio's using glue is given) and spray at 60 lbs, sometime I adjust to suit.

Haha...yeah Ken, I found that out when I went to HF to buy one of those finally and the CLEARANCE sign was on the spot where those hung - but they were already out. I musta just missed them...and they had them marked down to $10!! Poop times two...

I bought a different one I hope works online...haven't had a chance to try it yet - been doing lotsa woodrails!

#19 4 months ago

I recall someone saying that this lacquer worked well: https://www.bohning.com/fletch-lac-gloss-lacquer/

2 months later
#20 54 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I recall someone saying that this lacquer worked well: https://www.bohning.com/fletch-lac-gloss-lacquer/

That was me... I mixed both black and white to get a dark gray... I had to add a bit of lacquer thinner and play around with the PSI when shooting, but it came out great and looks just like factory.

#21 53 days ago

Some of my results shooting lacquer.

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#22 53 days ago

This stuff always causes webbing to be too thick and heavy.

#23 53 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Some of my results shooting lacquer.[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! This one and Ken's really duplicate the original more than any other. I've done the "karate chop" motion with the webbing spray, and if you do it fast, it works pretty well, and the brush method is okay too, but neither are as close as the laquer spray. I've really got to break down and try it on my next repaint.

#24 49 days ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Nice! This one and Ken's really duplicate the original more than any other. I've done the "karate chop" motion with the webbing spray, and if you do it fast, it works pretty well, and the brush method is okay too, but neither are as close as the laquer spray. I've really got to break down and try it on my next repaint.

Do it... it’s really gratifying once you’ve got the knack... go from a good restoration to a great restoration.

#25 49 days ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Nice! This one and Ken's really duplicate the original more than any other. I've done the "karate chop" motion with the webbing spray, and if you do it fast, it works pretty well, and the brush method is okay too, but neither are as close as the laquer spray. I've really got to break down and try it on my next repaint.

On my observation the original GTB webbing varied between light and heavy on different games. Therefore in my view there is no perfect solution. It is ultimately in the hands of the restorer to determine their preferred solution.

#26 49 days ago

Was browsing around reading random threads and saw nitro mentioned. FYI A good source for nitro lacquer if you want it, is guitar restoration places.

reranch.com comes to mind first but I'm sure there's others. Their normal stock is original Fender and Gibson colors but they can do custom mixes as well.

#27 49 days ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Nice! This one and Ken's really duplicate the original more than any other. I've done the "karate chop" motion with the webbing spray, and if you do it fast, it works pretty well, and the brush method is okay too, but neither are as close as the laquer spray. I've really got to break down and try it on my next repaint.

I have been waiting two, years to give it a go. This one is next.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1964-bally-grand-tour-not-dead-yet

#28 49 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I have been waiting two, years to give it a go. This one is next.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1964-bally-grand-tour-not-dead-yet

make it easy on yourself, pinball pimp now has the stencils. i did this a couple of months ago. used silver webbing

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#29 49 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

make it easy on yourself, pinball pimp now has the stencils. i did this a couple of months ago. used silver webbing[quoted image]

Damn, I made my own for nothing? Outstanding!

1 month later
#30 13 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

make it easy on yourself, pinball pimp now has the stencils. i did this a couple of months ago. used silver webbing[quoted image]

Ended up using my own homebrew stencils, pretty pleased with the results. Be complete in another week or two, hectic week coming up.

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#31 13 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Ended up using my own homebrew stencils, pretty pleased with the results. Be complete in another week or two, hectic week coming up.[quoted image]

Great job and making your own stencils saves you money to spend on auto paint!

#32 13 days ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Great job and making your own stencils saves you money to spend on auto paint!

Nothing against PP, but I vastly prefer making my own stencils too...can't really say why - maybe the satisfaction coupled with the DIY money savings. But that doesn't really fully explain it to myself either...

#33 13 days ago
Quoted from Stoomer:

Nothing against PP, but I vastly prefer making my own stencils too...can't really say why - maybe the satisfaction coupled with the DIY money savings. But that doesn't really fully explain it to myself either...

In this case I had already made them, if I had not might have been a different story. A fairly simple design at any rate but something more complex would make PP stencils far more attractive. I do enjoy doing as much as I can "in house" and build up my skill sets.

#34 13 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

In this case I had already made them, if I had not might have been a different story. A fairly simple design at any rate but something more complex would make PP stencils far more attractive. I do enjoy doing as much as I can "in house" and build up my skill sets.

Good point on the more complicated ones...however I'm doing a Bally Circus right now that is fairly complex - it's an interesting challenge to me. I guess that's another factor. I've traced the stencils, but not cut them yet...at this rate I won't doing this cab until spring anyways...it's been a long project, for various reasons: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bh7UOuXR3bh2UDeE2

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