Quoted from ToucanF16:None of those PFs are mine, but tell me about the Marantz receivers!
That's quite the pile of gear!
(Topic ID: 243533)
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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1 month later
That's not cold -
The water is open.
You know it is properly cold when you have to break the ice to take a bath.
2 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from kruzman:I just got done using a loader to move the snow so I can get to my studio. There is a travel advisory here for the next 7+ days!!!!!
Heh - Yup. Snow finally arrived in the valleys, out here. Spent 2 hours this AM shoveling.
Quoted from kruzman:I have 2 paragon repros here right now. I am waiting for them to dry, cure. They look pretty darn good. That is one title I would suggest the repro if money is a factor. Its an expensive nos pf to do. Many many inserts that all need to be painted, plus the usual issues of pfs from that era, make it expensive.
I would LOVE to find a NOS Paragon.
2 months later
4 weeks later
Quoted from kruzman:Many many years ago one of my own in-progress-pics ended up on another clearcoater's web site to show" Kruzmans crappy work" compared to theirs
I poured over my Elvira and the Party Monsters this weekend. I can't tell you how impressed I am with it. My CPR Gold Skateball looks downright crappy in comparison!
Those people can suck a dick...your work is fucking amazing.
1 month later
8 months later
1 week later
That kit came in super handy when I did my Skateball Swap, Ron.
In addition to the above, I also used 220 Grit paper cut into strips and folded over thin carboard to get that last bit of clear out of the way in each star.
PITA, but eventually got them working smoothly. Just takes time and dogged determination to get there without destroying the insert or clear.
Quoted from kruzman:GREAT IDEA on the cutting 220 in to strips. so like 3/4 an inch wide? are you able to pull it thru the bottom, and use one hand above the pf and one below?
Exactly this. Folded over cardboard from as thin as a matchbook to as thick as will fit, as the situation requires.
And always pulling down from the top of the PF to the bottom when removing material...to keep from getting chips in that clear.
Here's a tip for the frst time swappers who aren't down for a full set of new lamps / rewire. I did this on my Skateball and it worked too well not to share.
Assuming a working machine as your staring point:
Remove and Label all Coils from the mechs.
Remove the Switches from the mechs, too and then Remove Mechs for rebuild and to locate and mark on the new PF..
Remove the main solder points for the Lighting GI/Control (Pops too) and Label them.
Remove all Harness Anchors and remove all Braid Staples.
Once everything is ready to lift free from the back of the PF. Take a section of Wire Fencing (I use 2" x 4" Box Fencing) and cut it to the size of a PF.
Lay the Fencing over the top of the wiring, pull the coils through the fencing (to keep the weight off the harness) and Zip / Twist Tie the ever loving shit outta the entire harness. You really can't use too many ties on your first go around. You can also pull switches through as needed to keep things clean.
Lift and transfer to the new PF. Locate all of your lamps and anchor points and land them right through the fencing. Clip the ties off as you go.
Real easy way to overcome the intimidation factor that comes with removing the entire harness / replacing all of the braid and lamps.
As for cleaning the harness. I usually do it on the old machine before I do the transfer. Just clip 3-4 Zip ties at a time and clean with rags then re-zip and move to the next section.
1 week later
1 week later
4 weeks later
I know it is probably burried somewhere in the thread, Ron...
but. How long would you suggest a guy wait before installing a new CPR PF? Just got my hands on one of the latest batch of HGT and I don't want to jump the gun.
Thanks yo.
7 months later
Quoted from kruzman:I have a friend in town, mike schudel, who has a rivet press and the dies and all of that stuff, if you get a ramp set that is only the plastic. Some games like the first elviria require so many rivets in the plastic set.
Tell me about it!
Finally doing my EatPM swap, right now. So many holes to prep and drill, today.
Quoted from kruzman:Do you think you would ever sell this EATPM? or can you say absolutely never. (even though we realize the word never is just hot air. You can never say never and it mean never)
Doubtful...but hard to say Never with these things. She's one of my first pinball loves, and my 4th swap. First System 11. And yeah...ramps add many levels of difficulty. On / Off, rinse and repeat.
Plans are to get the cabinet re-done this Spring/Summer. This one was bought as a player, but showed up as a basket case. Coin-Op Cauldron rebuilt the board set, I got it running and some guy in Michigan did the Clear Coat!
I can't wait to see how it plays...but, yeah. Should be lightning in a box.
Again. Thanks so much for your work on this one. Hopefully you will be doing a couple more PFs for me in the near future. Got a Screened FT set and a NOS BTTF that need the Ron Treatment.
Forgot to add:
After 4 Swaps, I can say that installing a PF without your Install Kit is NOT the way to go. Those bits make drilling clearcoat a LOT less sketchy.
I use them both by hand and in my drill (rather than the Dremmel), as the drill has a tighter tolerance and no threat of skipping/hopping.
Yep Ron.
I have been using a brand new manilla envelope on each PF swap.
One side I keep whole and use as my home base while I do a section of PF. A place to put things down, like bits, small rags etc.
The other side I cut into squares of asst'd sizes and I punch a hole in the center of each one. Then I set them up over a series of holes and slowly work through them and move on to the next batch. Keeps me from getting spastic by trying to do too many at once.
Another good thing I learned was that a tiny bit of Vaseline or grease will keep that syringe cover from gluing itself shut. If you store the syringe vertically and manage to keep yourself from welding the cap to the syringe, you can get a good 2-3 days out of each needlesful of Ron's Juice.
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