I watched the air compressor video, and its not surprising. I had a car painted, and the same thing happened at the quarter car wash. I had a cpr cyclone, and the inserts had popped out after a couple months, (cpr didnt know that they had to sand the edges of the inserts. its a problem on firepower and cyclone) I still have that mess, and then I was able to pop off about 2/3 of the clear with air and fingernails.
Here is what I can say about my clear. I use the compressor set at 135psi, many times thru my process. The nozel is always less than 1 in from the surface, and I blow off the sanding after each pass. Then when done sanding I use the 135 psi to get all dust out of the drill holes and dimples. then I hit it from behind to get all of the dust off the inside edges. After I am done polishing I blow the hell out of the pf to get off as much of the compound as I can, so when I go thru by hand and run a towel thru all of the holes, its not as messy. Its not an accident that I do this, I think its the best way to keep a look out for a situation where the clear didnt bind
So would my clear do that? no. but there are a couple things to keep in mind. With mirco I have mentioned this many times, I have to make the clear spray over the edges of the cut outs and on to the inside edges. This gives it a better grip.
also I sand off as much as I can, or until I hit ink somewhere, so I dont get to achieve the initial bond. Now this is all stuff I think about all of the time, and when I started developing my clear to be more concentrated on longevity rather than looks, I would do the old sun processing test, where i put masking tape in an x on the surface and then cut in to it with an exacto and pull the tape up to see if it pulls up the clear. That was the test they used when making the sys 11 and later pfs. I know this because I owned a lot of the tested pfs that I bought from gene.
I dont recommend taking a compressor or power washer to your car or pf to test it.
Here is a fact. Just the way that clear is made, if I slam a pf in to a door frame while being an oaf, and it puts a big dent in the pf on the clear side, chances the clear will not bend with the wood, and will stay flat, so I would expect ghosting. I cant say to what degree or with certainty.
I have found the key to a hard surface for the ball to glide on without getting a ball dimpled up is multiple thin coats, and the most important thing is to sand rather than doing a dust coat. The only time I do a dust coat is when I get a pf with raw ink on the surface. if I scuff it takes off the ink, so what a dust coat is you spray a light coat and let the droplets grab and dry then use them for your mechanical bond. Then sanding between each coat takes a lot of time, disks of sandpaper are more than a dollar a disk, plus you now have a bunch of cancerous dust all over everything, but its the only way to get the surface I am ok with.
So getting back to the vid of the guy pealing the clear off the pf with the compressor.
It shouldnt come off that easy, and completely like it did. thats a bad clear. But I would think that if you found or made a loose spot somewhere and used enough pressure, you will blow the paint or clear off any thing its applied to (house, car, trim, floor).
Now to answer your question, would one of my clear jobs do the same. I am sure if you use enough pressure you would find places to lift, but like I said all thru my process I have a nozel just like the one used, less than an inch from the surfaces of my pfs, many times between each coat. so my clear basically gets tested at least 20 times thru my process at 135psi. I used to be at 150 psi but I was wrecking my sanders.
Also my clear encapsulates the original clear. I sand further than the original edges on the pf, so that the original edges are not exposed. If that makes any sense.
As you guys know I am not big on pics and u tube and all of that (but I am getting better) I have done what was done in that video before, on a cpr pf, and about 1/3 of the clear would not come off with the compressor or picking. I wish very much it would have all come off so I could reclear it. now if I sand the clear that wont come off I will sand off the ink that is exposed from the clear that did come off.
When It happened on my mustang after body work, it was a bummer