New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 243533)

KRUZMAN monthly playfield thread


By kruzman

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 565 posts
  • 86 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 92 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 547 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_1049 (resized).JPG
IMG_1048 (resized).JPG
IMG_1047 (resized).JPG
IMG_1046 (resized).JPG
IMG_1045 (resized).JPG
IMG_1044 (resized).JPG
IMG_1043 (resized).JPG
IMG_1042 (resized).JPG
IMG_1040 (resized).JPG
IMG_1039 (resized).JPG
IMG_1038 (resized).JPG
IMG_1036 (resized).JPG
IMG_1034 (resized).JPG
IMG_1035 (resized).JPG
IMG_1030 (resized).JPG
IMG_1028 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 565 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 12.
#451 40 days ago

Free advice for the week:

I will start by saying I am not an experienced pin tech or pf installer. I get a lot my experience working with pros and first timers who call on me when there is a problem.

So when you are installing a pf, its not like putting a water pump on a cars motor, where you use screws and a prefit gasket, and you tighten as hard as you can since the water pump, screws and engine block are for the most part the same material steel
On a pf you have wood which is soft, (very soft.black gumwood sandwiched by 2 paper thin sheets of maple which is not very hard either), with an eight of an inch of hard but brittle clear coat (or less depending if it is nos, repro, or my work). Hard things tend to shatter when they are stressed, and soft things deform. So you want to be careful when you attach a metal screw (especially if it is going in to a metal t nut) to a softer material. The important thing is to not over tighten it since you have 3 materials you are compressing that are different density.

I know it is a pain but when attaching things to wood (and you need to remember you are a finish carpenter, not a framer) I perfer to fit them enough to hold steady and then when I am done with that job I go back and lightly tighten the rest. then after you play 50 games or so, go thru and check everything. If you have the mentality of a mechanic of framer using air wrenches and nail guns, you may not have a good finish. Its a really hard balance, pinball.

The person who invented the nylon lock nut deserves a nobel peace prize. I swap every single nut that I can with nylon lock nuts. On top of the pf they are perfect. I have seen people over tighten them out of habit. Try to avoid doing that also. They will never loosen or come off. Pinball is the perfect application for them.

I hope I dont sound like I am trying to be a know it all, and I am not writing a how to, that's all ready been done. I just want to get across the part about balancing the framer and finisher in your pf swap. and dont over tighten!!!!!!

#452 40 days ago

Also ... after a good clearcoat there will be also clear in screwholes. It is no good idea just to bring the screw/post/whatever in.
The clear should be widen first with a flat drill (no wood drill, it will tear the coat) or at least a Philipps Screwdriver.
Otherwise you have the risk to tear the coat.

Also handle T-Nuts with care. Do not hit them in ! Press them in with a screw clamp with cork or felt on the other side to avoid damages in the coat.

Just my experience ....

#453 40 days ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Also ... after a good clearcoat there will be also clear in screwholes. It is no good idea just to bring the screw/post/whatever in.
The clear should be widen first with a flat drill (no wood drill, it will tear the coat) or at least a Philipps Screwdriver.
Otherwise you have the risk to tear the coat.
Also handle T-Nuts with care. Do not hit them in ! Press them in with a screw clamp with cork or felt on the other side to avoid damages in the coat.
Just my experience ....

Good suggestions, especially about clearing away the clear coat. I sell a kit to do just that. it also removes all of the clear out of the t nut counter sunk holes so you dont have to break thru the clear, but pull them in nice and easy with a screw and washers from behind. The fins on a pop bumper lug (its what I call the nail screws) will crack the clear also if you dont remove it first.

10
#454 39 days ago

This is one of John Greatwich's Stargazer repros that I put a clear on, that I am very happy with

IMG_0928 (resized).JPGIMG_0929 (resized).JPGIMG_0930 (resized).JPGIMG_0931 (resized).JPGIMG_0932 (resized).JPGIMG_0933 (resized).JPGIMG_0934 (resized).JPGIMG_0935 (resized).JPGIMG_0936 (resized).JPGIMG_0937 (resized).JPGIMG_0938 (resized).JPG
#455 39 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Good suggestions, especially about clearing away the clear coat. I sell a kit to do just that. it also removes all of the clear out of the t nut counter sunk holes so you dont have to break thru the clear, but pull them in nice and easy with a screw and washers from behind. The fins on a pop bumper lug (its what I call the nail screws) will crack the clear also if you dont remove it first.

Ron's kit has some great drill bits for this purpose. I use 2 to 3 of them on each hole so as to keep the clear from cracking, and keep the playfield screw holes as nice and clean as possible. I'm anal-retentive in that way...

#456 39 days ago

Fantastic work!

Where can i purchase one of the above-mentioned kits for playfield swaps?

#457 39 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

Fantastic work!
Where can i purchase one of the above-mentioned kits for playfield swaps?

Send Ron a message that you want one.

This kit should be used doing any playfield swap not just one Ron did (although his work is highly recommended!). Yes if you’re going to swap your playfield, get the kit.

#458 39 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Send Ron a message that you want one.
This kit should be used doing any playfield swap not just one Ron did (although his work is highly recommended!). I’d you’re going to swap your playfield, get the kit.

Awesome, thanks for the tip! I'll def be getting one for a couple upcoming pf swaps I'm planning.

#459 35 days ago

Here is a title I would love to have. I have owned about75-80% of the classic strerns at one point in my life. The days are done of the $400 games that usually get about 5 beeps when I would power them up. Easy fixes, even for me.
So this is another J greatwich repro pf (I love them. This one had some pixilation on the insert keylines. It was white, right next to the black on the inside of the circle, so I had to repaint all of the inserts. Its is not easy because each key-line has an inside and outside edge that is not easy to paint. I am not super happy with the bonus insert key lines. They are small and the slightest non-perfect round-edge shows, loudly. I got to the point where I was happy enough. This pf belongs to james arnd and I did and experiment and used a deep gloss on the back (polyurethane) and I like it. It takes 3 coats, and I cant afford to do it for free, but I just wanted to see if I liked it, and I do. plus it is all sealed from moisture now, (except the inside edges of the undersides of the insert holes.
Anyway, I will get to the pics and quit yappin

IMG_0954 (resized).JPGIMG_0955 (resized).JPGIMG_0956 (resized).JPGIMG_0957 (resized).JPGIMG_0959 (resized).JPGIMG_0963 (resized).JPGIMG_0964 (resized).JPGIMG_0965 (resized).JPGIMG_0966 (resized).JPGIMG_0968 (resized).JPG
#460 35 days ago

I want to mention that I am sorry that I am about 3 weeks behind on every thing. Problems seem to come up in groups to test my will. Also in the fall I have a lot of work here at the compound. 10 acres, with 3 buildings and a guest house with a 92 year old woman living in it, oh, Plus a river running thru the middle is a lot of work for one person. I have 4 fireplaces that consume about 20-27 face cords of firewood, and 11,000 sq feet of drive to plow.
I have 2 IJ pfs to complete. One needs to be polished and the other, gets last coats, and block-sand, and polish and clean. Once those are shipped out (I built 12 crates this week) I am starting a new group that includes about 6 pfs that need paint work. So I will start out with about 8 work days of paint work, which I enjoy, and I will start rocking these out.
I am behind. Its not because I am slacking or sick. thank god. Just really swamped, but I am doing my best.
I just wanted to give a heads up to everyone who had one here.

Everything that needs paint work has been on hold till I got everything done. Its hard for me to wear both hats in the same day or week. I either have to think like an artist, or think like a sander.

IMG_0952 (resized).JPGIMG_0953 (resized).JPG
#461 35 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Anyway, I will get to the pics and quit yappin

True Pinball Porn kruzman Can't wait to see the magic to my 2 PF's with you!

#462 35 days ago

I always try to remind myself that thick keylines aren’t as noticeable when theyre lit. Good motivation to keep them going up and up and up. Plus. Any playfield that goes through your hands is better than what it looked like before.

#463 35 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I always try to remind myself that thick keylines aren’t as noticeable when theyre lit. Good motivation to keep them going up and up and up. Plus. Any playfield that goes through your hands is better than what it looked like before.

Thats a good point. I Also try to remember that the pf installed is a lot different in many ways than a pf standing on its own, uninstalled

#464 35 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Thats a good point. I Also try to remember that the pf installed is a lot different in many ways than a pf standing on its own, uninstalled

Go outside and plow the land, you've got things to do before it gets cold!

#465 35 days ago
Quoted from jellikit:

Go outside and plow the land, you've got things to do before it gets cold!

Is that the ghoul (avatar) on your name thing? he was my childhood hero. Not a pro athlete but a guy who blew up toilets' with m-80's and loved horror films.

#466 34 days ago

How does one buy a Kruzman CC Install kit from you?

#467 34 days ago
Quoted from underlord:

How does one buy a Kruzman CC Install kit from you?

Just send Ron a PM and he'll fix you up

13
#468 33 days ago

Finished pictures of my kruzman paragon! Pretty amazing work

B4C31EEA-60DE-4B00-A0F3-5E20D9311A2E (resized).jpegCC720DA3-B9AB-4FA4-9A6D-F65E8A3F1332 (resized).jpeg
#469 33 days ago
Quoted from scruffypinball:

Finished pictures of my kruzman paragon! Pretty amazing work
[quoted image][quoted image]

ABSOLUTLY AWESOME. I would love to play that game. well own it also.
I should put a little card on the back side of pfs for when people die, their family will find that says this pf wants to find its way back home. call me if it needs a new home. Although i am way older than most of my clients.
That looks so good thanks for sharing pics of it all done. You should be proud.

#470 33 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

ABSOLUTLY AWESOME. I would love to play that game. well own it also.
I should put a little card on the back side of pfs for when people die, their family will find that says this pf wants to find its way back home. call me if it needs a new home. Although i am way older than most of my clients.
That looks so good thanks for sharing pics of it all done. You should be proud.

Stencil this on the back. And in regards to the avatar I don't remember the character, I pulled it from Mitch O'Donnell, the world's greatest artist based here in Chicago.

kruzman (resized).png
#471 33 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

I should put a little card on the back side of pfs for when people die, their family will find that says this pf

I was actually going to ask you to sign/mark somewhere under the apron on my Meteor PF (under the clear of course), so that 20+ years from now, it'll be there for posterity.

Asked HEP to do the same on my TZ PF, but he didn't have time to.

#472 33 days ago
Quoted from jellikit:

Stencil this on the back. And in regards to the avatar I don't remember the character, I pulled it from Mitch O'Donnell, the world's greatest artist based here in Chicago.
[quoted image]

This is exactly what I want right here. I want a 3 inch sticker of this to put on the back or under the clear. I just have to figure out how to get it from the screen of my computer to a printer shop. busy busy busy

#473 33 days ago

Buy a silhouette cameo or cricut or some other brand of vinyl cutter. Cut your own stencil from the design on your computer. Stencil can be used over and over again.

Plus, the vinyl cutter comes in very handy for airbrush masking if you're doing touch-ups or re-paints.

Here's my before and after - everything on this playfield was re-painted using airbrush and vinyl cut stencils. No waterslides.

My next step will be to clear the playfield.

12db2d10df36e358ef5a7f33aee20aee41f37253.jpeg (resized).jpgIMG_7766 (resized).jpeg

#474 32 days ago

Wow, Ron! I would think that the SeaWitch owner will be delighted!

#475 32 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

This is exactly what I want right here. I want a 3 inch sticker of this to put on the back or under the clear. I just have to figure out how to get it from the screen of my computer to a printer shop. busy busy busy

Can help if you need it - I have a printer that can do those, they did the Meteor decals.

#476 32 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Can help if you need it - I have a printer that can do those, they did the Meteor decals.

I can provide a high-quality file of the logo if you help with printing, I just pushed a lower-resolution one in this thread for Ron. Thanks.

#477 32 days ago
Quoted from jellikit:

I can provide a high-quality file of the logo if you help with printing, I just pushed a lower-resolution one in this thread for Ron. Thanks.

Oh heck yeah, that'd be easy for my guy to do.
Forward the full-res if you can, and, kruzman - how wide do you want it? 1, 2, 3, 4 inches? Bigger? Smaller?

#478 31 days ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Buy a silhouette cameo or cricut or some other brand of vinyl cutter. Cut your own stencil from the design on your computer. Stencil can be used over and over again.
Plus, the vinyl cutter comes in very handy for airbrush masking if you're doing touch-ups or re-paints.
Here's my before and after - everything on this playfield was re-painted using airbrush and vinyl cut stencils. No waterslides.
My next step will be to clear the playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great! it will all smooth together once cleared. Those older pfs are made for air brushing for sure, but the text has always been the problem for me. Thats pretty awesome. would it be hard to make decals of text that I could clear over if I needed them in the future. Like would a good pic of what it is suppose to look like be all you need?

Please post a pic after you clear your pf. I wish wade would tackle those. There are plenty of games that need them, but what stops people from making them and others is the games are cheap. when that is the case, sooo many people wont put more than "it is worth" at the time in to it. Just had it happen with the clearcoated medusa I have for sale.

#479 31 days ago

If the rule was not spending more on the restoration than it is "worth" there wouldnt quality restorations of much of anything except hemi mopars, TAF, and thats about it

#480 31 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

If the rule was not spending more on the restoration than it is "worth" there wouldnt quality restorations of much of anything except hemi mopars, TAF, and thats about it

I paid Neo $1000 to touch up and clear a Williams Big Ben (EM, '75?) playfield. The game's worth not more'n $300 normally. No way I'd be able to sell the game and get my money back. But - I don't care. I really enjoy the game, and wanted a nice PF in it!

#481 31 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I paid Neo $1000 to touch up and clear a Williams Big Ben (EM, '75?) playfield. The game's worth not more'n $300 normally. No way I'd be able to sell the game and get my money back. But - I don't care. I really enjoy the game, and wanted a nice PF in it!

Thats a great example!
I have found that if you want to make a profit, you are better off spending the money and doing it to the 9's, then you can ask what you want because the high quality of the resto raises the demand.
Especially the pf clearcoat!!! ha

#482 31 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I paid Neo $1000 to touch up and clear a Williams Big Ben (EM, '75?) playfield. The game's worth not more'n $300 normally. No way I'd be able to sell the game and get my money back. But - I don't care. I really enjoy the game, and wanted a nice PF in it!

Never let anyone tell you how you should or shouldn't spend your money.

#483 31 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

would it be hard to make decals of text that I could clear over if I needed them in the future

I know people have done exactly this and it worked out great. All you need is a good picture or scan (or you can just use a font that's a close match). It's pretty easy to get very good results with this vinyl cutter.

#484 29 days ago

So now that it is fall, i turn the spray booth in to a heat booth for the pfs I shot in the last 2 days. The pics of the EBD show what I have to do to get them right. when it arrived it looked perfect, except it was not level and the wood grain was so deep that the lacquer was in valley's that are deeper than the height of the top color which is black. so when I sand, I get in to the inserts and getting rid of the wood grain and getting proper adhesion makes a lot more work for me. I will post some after pics of it when done, Now that I have this handy dandy camera. This happens on about 75% of nos pfs. I have to make them ugly to make them right.
I drilled and dimpled the dolly and this is the first coats to seal that up. Final coat on IJ. I think I did coats 6 and 7 on the R and M, and I think the quicksilver got its last coats

IMG_0969 (resized).JPGIMG_0970 (resized).JPGIMG_0972 (resized).JPGIMG_0973 (resized).JPGIMG_0974 (resized).JPGIMG_0975 (resized).JPGIMG_0976 (resized).JPGIMG_0977 (resized).JPG
#485 29 days ago

The special script on the EBD was a factory touch. I think they screened the red after the blue

#486 29 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

So now that it is fall, i turn the spray booth in to a heat booth for the pfs I shot in the last 2 days. The pics of the EBD show what I have to do to get them right. when it arrived it looked perfect, except it was not level and the wood grain was so deep that the lacquer was in valley's that are deeper than the height of the top color which is black. so when I sand, I get in to the inserts and getting rid of the wood grain and getting proper adhesion makes a lot more work for me. I will post some after pics of it when done, Now that I have this handy dandy camera. This happens on about 75% of nos pfs. I have to make them ugly to make them right.
I drilled and dimpled the dolly and this is the first coats to seal that up. Final coat on IJ. I think I did coats 6 and 7 on the R and M, and I think the quicksilver got its last coats
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your touch-up work on Rick and Morty looks incredible! As always, great job Ron!

#487 29 days ago

Again on the EBD, you can see my coat of clear has wood grain. That is on the top since its a thin coat. when I sand that flat< then I have a new flat surface to work with

#488 29 days ago

Ron, random question ... I know you do PF's for Spooky, has JJP reached out as well to reclear their PF's (if paid for) before the game is assembled? I love the idea of having a perfect clear before pulling the plunger from Day 1.

#489 29 days ago

Posting some pictures of my Kruzman coated Rick and Morty - beautiful work!

BE3A3F73-725D-4D06-BBAF-116CD8AC3DED (resized).jpegD5B43E21-B75C-4943-A56C-85708E750670 (resized).jpeg
#490 28 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Again on the EBD, you can see my coat of clear has wood grain. That is on the top since its a thin coat. when I sand that flat< then I have a new flat surface to work with

On a side note:
That EBD playfield has the initials to the two pistils.
I have a later version of the playfield and the initials are removed.

#491 28 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

On a side note:
That EBD playfield has the initials to the two pistils.
I have a later version of the playfield and the initials are removed.

Huh. Anyone know why they were removed?

#492 28 days ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Posting some pictures of my Kruzman coated Rick and Morty - beautiful work!
[quoted image][quoted image]

when you have time, maybe some more pics. I have not seen the game and I am a big fan. I hope it plays super fast and tight. The rob zombie we had here needed to be tuned, out of the box. Just things needed slight adjustment, like targets. I think the flippers also, its been some years now.
Your game looks super cool!! I hope you are happy.

#493 27 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Huh. Anyone know why they were removed?

I will check when I get to work today, but I think that is one of the very last batches of EBD. I think it is dimpled on the back for light boards under the inserts. There are so many differences in the pfs for that title. it was made for close to 5 years, and lots of different parts. By the time they were using the cabs from the hyper ball. I am brain dead. I am referring to the game where you shoot a butt load of 1 cm balls (maybe pachinko balls). They harvested the unused cabs for ebd and centaur at the end. BY that time bally went from 80,000 games a year in 1980 if you count EBD and FG in jan of 81 to 18,000 in the rest of 81.
I think they made EBD from jan 81 till 85 in all of its different forms. I think they were bankrupt in 84 or 85, and restructured with midway. I have a great book on it that I haven't looked at in 15 years.

I really dig it when folks post pics of my pfs installed or getting there

#494 27 days ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

Ron, random question ... I know you do PF's for Spooky, has JJP reached out as well to reclear their PF's (if paid for) before the game is assembled? I love the idea of having a perfect clear before pulling the plunger from Day 1.

It cant hurt to ask. tell them the process takes 13 weeks though. Not sure if they can deal w that, but they can start installing immediately. Maybe talk to mike fox. he knows my work and works at JJP

#495 27 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

It cant hurt to ask. tell them the process takes 13 weeks though. Not sure if they can deal w that, but they can start installing immediately. Maybe talk to mike fox. he knows my work and works at JJP

Let's use guitars as an example. Jackson, Ibanez, Gibson all offer "custom shop" guitars. I wish all manufacturers allowed the option for custom shop that allowed a Kruzman clear coat as an option. However Ron hit on it a few days ago that hard clear coat can be brittle and the way these things are manufactured with power tools I could see it getting destroyed. How Spooky pulls it off is awesome and proof it can be done! I'd like to know if they changed their assembly process or not.

That Rick and Morty above looks f-ing SWEET! That clear job makes a machine fast and brutal. Too bad he didn't get to play it before the RK clear job to really appreciate and understand exactly what he paid for.

11
#496 26 days ago

Here is my latest restoration. This is a 1961 Dynaco stereo 70 tube amp. They were originally a kit with the circuit board all ready built and tested. This is now complete and tested. I have not decided if I am going to get another to power my Von Schweikert VR4 speakers, and run them in mono to each side. I am not sure if that will be enough since the speakers are now hooked up to 2 amps that deliver 400 wpc each with 1400 wpc headroom each. Blah blah
Anyway this amp was designed by david hafler. Its older than me and almost as sweet and cool.

Not pinball, but the parts are so similar, and the expectations of the resto and end product are as high as in pinball. Also restored to function day to day. 4 of those tubes say in big letters "made in Russia" how cool is that. Not USSR, but mother russia. I believe they have a buttload of rare, heavy metals that they mine there. Notice all of the pan head screws are slotted and all slots run horizontal. New input/ output lugs, and cord, plus most components on the circuit board. all audio grade.

I have to believe with how similar the two hobbies there has to be some of you folks in to this. I am trying to find another group or community. Not hi fi buffs, but pinball and hi fi lovers? eh?

download (2) (resized).jpgdownload (4) (resized).jpgdownload (7) (resized).jpg
#497 25 days ago

Those amps RULE. I had one for a while that I got from the original owner. Great piece of gear. I know quite a few pinsiders who are into high end audio.

I've had a lot of nice amps and preamps, but I always tend to lean towards the simplicity of a nice 70s silver face receiver. Currently running a Nikko NR-1019 into a pair of Ohm Walsh 2s, but definitely looking for a nice clean Yamaha CR-1020. I think being a craigslist fiend for audio gear is kind of what got me into pinball in one way or another...

#498 25 days ago

I’m into tube audio hi-fi. I really enjoy building my own amps. Some of the best stuff I’ve seen with great bang-for-the buck are the Elekits from Victor Kung in Canada.
I just finished an Elekit TU-8600. https://www.vkmusic.ca/TU-8600.htm It’s a SET amp using Elrog 300B tubes. The Japanese kits have great instructions, impeccable sound and are easy to build.
I’m now investigating SunValley kits. The SunValley industrial look is phenomenal. They’re made by the electronics subdivision of Toyota Industries. Very simple and elegant design; similar to the Dynaco Ron has. Here’s the link to my next project. https://www.audioasylum.com/forums/triode/messages/59.html

#499 25 days ago
Quoted from kruzman:

So now that it is fall, i turn the spray booth in to a heat booth for the pfs I shot in the last 2 days. The pics of the EBD show what I have to do to get them right. when it arrived it looked perfect, except it was not level and the wood grain was so deep that the lacquer was in valley's that are deeper than the height of the top color which is black. so when I sand, I get in to the inserts and getting rid of the wood grain and getting proper adhesion makes a lot more work for me. I will post some after pics of it when done, Now that I have this handy dandy camera. This happens on about 75% of nos pfs. I have to make them ugly to make them right.
I drilled and dimpled the dolly and this is the first coats to seal that up. Final coat on IJ. I think I did coats 6 and 7 on the R and M, and I think the quicksilver got its last coats
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What temperature in the booth are you shooting for when you are clearing?

#500 24 days ago
Quoted from edward472:

What temperature in the booth are you shooting for when you are clearing?

Right now I shoot at 75-77. It depends on if I have Med or fast hardener in the house and if I am doing last coats or build ups. I dont spray when it is over 80 outside since I cant cool my room, and I dont spray when the humidity is over 65-70%. In michigan this can screw me for weeks, but its not worth it

Quoted from Toucanf16:

I’m into tube audio hi-fi. I really enjoy building my own amps. Some of the best stuff I’ve seen with great bang-for-the buck are the Elekits from Victor Kung in Canada.
I just finished an Elekit TU-8600. https://www.vkmusic.ca/TU-8600.htm It’s a SET amp using Elrog 300B tubes. The Japanese kits have great instructions, impeccable sound and are easy to build.
I’m now investigating SunValley kits. The SunValley industrial look is phenomenal. They’re made by the electronics subdivision of Toyota Industries. Very simple and elegant design; similar to the Dynaco Ron has. Here’s the link to my next project. https://www.audioasylum.com/forums/triode/messages/59.html

Thank you for the lead. I have found several other Japanese tube amps but its hard to tell what kind of quality they are. They all look nice. Right now I dont have enough experience to buy a new product. I still have not got to listen to the dynakit

I want to put the word out that I am looking for a Marantz 4270 or a 2325. I have the 4240 and I am crazy for the sound and I wanted to use it for my preamp but it is the only model it seems that doesnt have pre amp outs. So I am going to put it up for sale.
I am really looking forward to having the high power, 4 dimension system(the Von Schweikert speakers are amazing but use so much power) down stairs and the tube system up. I have to earn some more $ to buy the rest of the equipment.

I just finished a FUNHOUSE pf that I will try to get pics of today.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: € 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Creo Pinball
$ 47.00
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
There are 565 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 12.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside